1998 Mercedes-Benz CL420 (C140)

1998 Mercedes-Benz CL420 (C140)

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tobinen

Original Poster:

9,184 posts

144 months

Friday 29th January 2016
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Many thanks for the offer of a wireless but I desire something modern and beefy to accomodate my music tastes. Hard to find anything remotely close to the period in all but display colour. I am going for an Alpine unit which has a slightly retro appearance.

Parking sensors now ok!

Other news, the LH door mirror heats but does not fold; the RH door mirror folds but does not heat! It's overdue a service so I am booking in soon with my trusted indy, and to check the inoperative HRW.

It also really needs a clean and wax/polish.

Currently running it on V-Power as its cost is low(er). Certainly improves the low end pick-up IMO.

C70R

17,596 posts

103 months

Friday 29th January 2016
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Cracking lump of Stuttgart's finest!

Your radio issue will be down to the live connections used (there should be one permanent connection for memory functions, and one that comes live with the ignition in accessory position), and one of two potential causes:
1. You have two permanent connections, and something is causing one of them to switch the unit on.
2. You have an issue with your ignition connection, which is triggering a voltage change and causing the unit to switch on.

I'd get poking around with a multimeter with the key in various positions, and with the car locked/unlocked. I know that some MBs have no permanent live connection due to the fibreoptic ring/loop thing, but I think that post-dates yours a little.

tobinen

Original Poster:

9,184 posts

144 months

Friday 29th January 2016
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Thanks. I'm fairly sure I have a pair of MB radio keys lying around so I'll just remove it for now.

tobinen

Original Poster:

9,184 posts

144 months

Sunday 31st January 2016
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Good news is that the parking sensors have not misbehaved since so hopefully just a one off due to weather, and I have removed the wireless

I successfully removed the chrome instrument rings this morning

Removed the cluster and split the housing. Turned out I had the correct size bit all along (T10 if anyone's interested). Undo two screws, pull out the two coloured films for the bulbs and carefully prise open.



You can see the tacho scale has been adhered 'on the p*ss' and there is no way I am attempting to remove the scale; it's very well stuck on. Perhaps a hairdryer might remove it but I am not trying. It reads about 500 revs too high and I'll live with it for now.

The rings are a snap fit so I put some loo roll on the inside of the housing and tapped with a screw driver. The large ring was fine to remove by hand.





Fitting is a reversal of removal and popped it back in. Much happier with it now. No more unwanted reflections from the light down the pointers.


tobinen

Original Poster:

9,184 posts

144 months

Monday 15th February 2016
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The Alpine HU is in (CDE196DAB for anyone interested), along with the upgraded speakers that were once in the 210.

FM reception is still practically non-existant so the prime suspects are either the FM aerial amp in the NSR quarter and/or the aerial itself which is behind the rear bumper, I am told. When the aerial amp is unplugged then nothing is heard but connected it only picks up the strongest local FM station. A new one is £85 so I'm checking with 140 Spares to see if he has one.

Another thing not working is the centre parking sensor display. I am hopeful it is just the bulb gone. TBH I never even realised that it did anything.


tobinen

Original Poster:

9,184 posts

144 months

Tuesday 1st March 2016
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Finally booked in to the local bodyshop for the paint work and I've bought a second hand NS quarter moulding from 140 Spares for £33 in the correct silver. Thought about going to r129sl's 'Man' but decided to keep it local in case of any redress. It's quite expensive but I am assured they are very good.

In other news, what sounds like the horn has started to chirp when I open the driver's door. No idea on that one. Could be my ears playing tricks and it's something else.

I've treated all the weatherseals with Einszett Gummi Pflege and now the doors don't stick in frost and it allows the windows to drop slightly. Much better.

Otherwise nothing much to report. Last tank was 20 MPG on V-Power (90 litres / 415 miles) but that was nearly all my cold daily commute.

colin_p

4,503 posts

211 months

Tuesday 1st March 2016
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That is lovely.

tobinen

Original Poster:

9,184 posts

144 months

Tuesday 8th March 2016
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Car goes in tomorrow for the paintwork.

First major fault has developed. The RH quarter glass no longer drops when opening the driver's door. I've tried the switch and I can hear the motor working but it's stuck or come adrift from the motor. At least it's up and not down. I bet it's a pig to to get to. Added to the list...

jke11y

3,181 posts

236 months

Tuesday 8th March 2016
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Just catching up on this. Weirdly my tacho is also on the squint, to a similar degree. It always worries me that these things are present, as it just points to problems badly fixed in the past!

tobinen

Original Poster:

9,184 posts

144 months

Tuesday 8th March 2016
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I think Fraulein Schmitt at VDO was on a promise and wanted to get home early for some 'hide the bratwurst' action.

r129sl

9,518 posts

202 months

Tuesday 8th March 2016
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jke11y said:
Just catching up on this. Weirdly my tacho is also on the squint, to a similar degree. It always worries me that these things are present, as it just points to problems badly fixed in the past!
I'm looking forward to seeing the paint job.

My tacho in the 129 is on the wonk, too, but it never used to be. A couple of the gauges in my 140 are similar. I don't think they were born that way. I think the individual gauges can be re-aligned somehow. I have s pare instrument cluster at home. With the help of this thread and some spare time, I will have a go at re-alignment one day.

Edit: a bit of googling suggests the gauge is screw mounted; the screws can be loosened, the gauge re-aligned and then the screws re-tightened. I might even have a go tonight as my wife is away and my work is too boring for words.

Edited by r129sl on Tuesday 8th March 18:17

r129sl

9,518 posts

202 months

Tuesday 8th March 2016
quotequote all
Well, the gauges are screw mounted but their alignment is not so adjustable. Nonetheless, the job is easy.

Before, decidedly on the piss:




After, straighter, but probably not perfect:




I dismantled the cluster, as above: two screws and some plastic clips. A bit of care around the clips: the plastic is 20 years old so may be brittle. But easy. Watch for the warning lamp films sliding out, again, nothing difficult.

Remove the three T10 tore screws holding the tachometer in place.




Pull the tacho upwards; some force is required, but not much.




Then slip a table knife between the plastic-paper gauge face and the perspex shell of the gauge itself. Rotate the gauge around the knife, as you would when halving an avocado. The gauge face will move ever so slightly.




For alignment, check the small hole in the top of the gauge face—by the bar code—is aligned with the similar small hole in the perspex shell of the gauge itself.




Reassemble. Took about ten minutes. Not sure the marmalade on the work surface is such a great idea.

Hope this is not a thread hijack. Anyway: unless you're a total spanner, you can be confident you can do this well. I guess perfectionist would use lint-free gloves and a cleaner work environment.

tobinen

Original Poster:

9,184 posts

144 months

Wednesday 9th March 2016
quotequote all
That's very useful, thanks very much r129sl! thumbup

I'm pretty well versed with taking apart VDO clusters so will do this when it's back from the bodyshop. I do love a simple cost-free fix!

tobinen

Original Poster:

9,184 posts

144 months

Friday 11th March 2016
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Just back from the bodyshop and it's bittersweet/good news, bad news.

Bad news - the quarter and door mouldings from 140 Spares are both separately different shades and differ from the wing moulding! They polished them up well but they all need spraying to match - £216 when I feel ready. Some poor android pics taken in low light:



Good news - great job on the bumpers:





They're much better than than these pictures show. I've noticed a crease/dent where the boot lock barrel is as well. Where does it end?

I am pleased with their work so I'll book in a few months to have the mouldings done. I was chatting to the owner and he says all four arches will need attention soon (probably one more winter), which I was aware of; around £800-900 for those.

Appropriately I shall drink a few glasses of cheap Chianti this evening.


r129sl

9,518 posts

202 months

Friday 11th March 2016
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A dent man may be able to do something with the boot lock dimple, assuming he can get behind it. I doubt he will make it perfect, but at more like £50 than £500 it may be the sensible course. I'm always pleasantly amazed by what these dent guys can do and usually they are very happy to take cash with a big discount rather than run the job through their franchise.

tobinen

Original Poster:

9,184 posts

144 months

Tuesday 22nd March 2016
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Nearly two weeks have passed but I just can't stand the paint mismatch anymore. The rear bumper is noticeably lighter and there are parts of paint which have filled in the recess of the bumper, plus I have noticed the ends of the corner tops have not been touched. Disappointing


He's agreed to discuss my findings after work this afternoon. He seems amiable and eager to please so I am hopeful.

anonymous-user

53 months

Tuesday 22nd March 2016
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You might also want to get both bumpers mounted properly. The front one is way out. Look at the gap between the top of it and the rest of the car... it's all over the show.

Mind you some of that maybe due to what lies behind it. These are supposed to have legendary build quality, in my experience like most Mercs of the era they're a bag of st when you get behind the shiny paintwork, but that's just my opinion!

S3_Graham

12,830 posts

198 months

Tuesday 22nd March 2016
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I see you are in Newbury. Not too far but there is a bloody good paintshop in Farnborough.

TGMsport. A Honda race team / type R specialist but paints cars also. They did all the bodywork on my S203.

tobinen

Original Poster:

9,184 posts

144 months

Thursday 24th March 2016
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He's agreed with me on the rear bumper paint not matching so is taking it back on 4 April. I know he had a pig of a job in flattening it down due to the previous bodged repair, which was pretty poor TBF.

I'm in a much better mood now. smile

There is a patch of rust just below the RH rear lamp. I inquired for a price on this but he says he'll have to blend in the quarter so it's a bigger job. He also said he wanted to remove the rear lamps to see if there's any nastiness behind, which is fair enough.

With all four arches starting to show signs of rust I asked for a complete job, i.e. both sides sorted and sprayed and it's £1,440 inc VAT. I am mulling this over seriously between now and 4 April while I still have some cash before moving house.

Edited by tobinen on Thursday 24th March 16:51

tobinen

Original Poster:

9,184 posts

144 months

Wednesday 6th April 2016
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Had the car back on Monday and it's a much better shade of 744. I am happier but I still think I've overpaid in the back of my mind. I've decided to put on hold having both sides sorted as funds are tight with the imminent house move.

In other news a lowlife in a E46 decided my right of way was not good enough and went for a pass by parked cars and we clipped door mirrors. It's not cracked or smashed but I can't clip it back in flush so it's slightly wobbling in the wind. I will take a closer look this weekend.