Anyone interested in a Land Rover build thread?
Discussion
Deciding on what to do with the engine took some time. Part of me wanted to stick with the 2.25, but mine had oil consumption issues and I just hadn't got it running how I wanted.
I did look at rebuilding and modding it, or going 2.5P. And more exotic options like a T-Series from an Mpi Discovery. But ultimately I really fancied just getting it running again, and as I already have three V8's in my life, a 3.9, a 4.6 and a 5.7, something that could reliably and regularly return mid 20's or more mpg sounded appealing.
I opted for a 200Tdi off ebay for 300 notes. As it should in theory be a basic bolt in replacement.
Using Steve Parkers kit to bolt up the Tdi to standard Series gearbox, much swearing and working by torch light and the power train was assembled ready to be put in the vehicle.
Big thanks to my brother who went out of his way to help on this one.
At last the engine was in.
Now anyone who tells you fitting a Tdi in a Series is a 5 min job and requires only bolting in, is well, a liar!!
Sure it bolts up. But even that required shaving a bit off one of the engine mounts in order to fit it to the block. The bigger hurdle is the fab work for the rad, cooling pipes and turbo setup.
After much debate I decided to use the Discovery rad that came with the engine. As per the guidance on Steve Parkers website, cutting down the original Discovery rad shroud to fit where the Series rad used to be. My original hope was to fit the entire rad and intercooler assembly as you would in a Defender, but the p38a steering pump really meant there wasn't enough room.
This left the question on what to do about the intercooler. I'm fully aware of the advantages one offers. But in order to get the vehicle running I opted to forgo an intercooler for now. I may in the future see about mounting one in front of the rad as per Steve Parkers guide, but to buy a modded intercooler from them is a bit pricey. Or I may try something else. But I want to run it for a bit first and see how it goes.
To aid plumbing of the turbo, we "clocked" it. Essentially rotated it, which requires the drilling of some holes. But you end up with the outlet point up, instead of straight into the wing.
I had to get a high pressure hose made up for the PAS pump to box. And to address the issue of the steering arm, I had a solid one cut down and re-tapped. It's essentially a lower steering arm (as they are longer). ALRC regs won't allowed welded steering parts, so this seemed the best option.
I did look at rebuilding and modding it, or going 2.5P. And more exotic options like a T-Series from an Mpi Discovery. But ultimately I really fancied just getting it running again, and as I already have three V8's in my life, a 3.9, a 4.6 and a 5.7, something that could reliably and regularly return mid 20's or more mpg sounded appealing.
I opted for a 200Tdi off ebay for 300 notes. As it should in theory be a basic bolt in replacement.
Using Steve Parkers kit to bolt up the Tdi to standard Series gearbox, much swearing and working by torch light and the power train was assembled ready to be put in the vehicle.
Big thanks to my brother who went out of his way to help on this one.
At last the engine was in.
Now anyone who tells you fitting a Tdi in a Series is a 5 min job and requires only bolting in, is well, a liar!!
Sure it bolts up. But even that required shaving a bit off one of the engine mounts in order to fit it to the block. The bigger hurdle is the fab work for the rad, cooling pipes and turbo setup.
After much debate I decided to use the Discovery rad that came with the engine. As per the guidance on Steve Parkers website, cutting down the original Discovery rad shroud to fit where the Series rad used to be. My original hope was to fit the entire rad and intercooler assembly as you would in a Defender, but the p38a steering pump really meant there wasn't enough room.
This left the question on what to do about the intercooler. I'm fully aware of the advantages one offers. But in order to get the vehicle running I opted to forgo an intercooler for now. I may in the future see about mounting one in front of the rad as per Steve Parkers guide, but to buy a modded intercooler from them is a bit pricey. Or I may try something else. But I want to run it for a bit first and see how it goes.
To aid plumbing of the turbo, we "clocked" it. Essentially rotated it, which requires the drilling of some holes. But you end up with the outlet point up, instead of straight into the wing.
I had to get a high pressure hose made up for the PAS pump to box. And to address the issue of the steering arm, I had a solid one cut down and re-tapped. It's essentially a lower steering arm (as they are longer). ALRC regs won't allowed welded steering parts, so this seemed the best option.
Really enjoying your build thread, some serious fabrication work and engineering going on, top stuff. 
There's something nice about the Series vehicles and with good suspension like you're doing they're easily as capable as a coil sprung 90''. Strong too.
We used to fit single leaf Transit springs to the rear of our Series 1 triallers which made them very compliant off-road - I remember experiencing axle-tramp for the first time with them though, when you wound on the V-8.
My brother-in-law has just bought a Series 2 for his son to do up - it's a real shed with a seized Perkins diesel and rot everywhere - I'll show him this thread to inspire him!
There's something nice about the Series vehicles and with good suspension like you're doing they're easily as capable as a coil sprung 90''. Strong too.
We used to fit single leaf Transit springs to the rear of our Series 1 triallers which made them very compliant off-road - I remember experiencing axle-tramp for the first time with them though, when you wound on the V-8.
My brother-in-law has just bought a Series 2 for his son to do up - it's a real shed with a seized Perkins diesel and rot everywhere - I'll show him this thread to inspire him!
Don't worry too much about fancy suspension.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dBNPZFNOK-4
Difflock is where it's at!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dBNPZFNOK-4
Difflock is where it's at!
So to date the final/current spec is:
88" wheel base Series III
Series gearbox
Series transfer box
Series axles
4.75:1 diffs
Defender Steering column & P38a steering box
200Tdi non intercooled
There are still a few things to do. The lower dash is currently out and needs patching up. And I need to make up a few panels to cover the PAS box and other gaps in the inner wings. As well as get and fit some mud shields in the wings.
I have an X-Brake hand brake to fit.
And I need to sort the recovery points out front and read.
Intake filter is only temporarily attached too at the moment.
88" wheel base Series III
Series gearbox
Series transfer box
Series axles
4.75:1 diffs
Defender Steering column & P38a steering box
200Tdi non intercooled
There are still a few things to do. The lower dash is currently out and needs patching up. And I need to make up a few panels to cover the PAS box and other gaps in the inner wings. As well as get and fit some mud shields in the wings.
I have an X-Brake hand brake to fit.
And I need to sort the recovery points out front and read.
Intake filter is only temporarily attached too at the moment.
Quite pleased with how it flexes, nothing too extreme, but goes well on and off road, and a vast improvement over a standard Series.
I could tweak a few more bits, I have some longer One Ton military spec spring shackles I could fit. Pretty sure these would allow even more travel, but might cause prop issues and will alter the pinion angle of the diffs.
I could tweak a few more bits, I have some longer One Ton military spec spring shackles I could fit. Pretty sure these would allow even more travel, but might cause prop issues and will alter the pinion angle of the diffs.
300bhp/ton said:
Nice vid - looking good!300bhp/ton said:
Using Steve Parkers kit to bolt up the Tdi to standard Series gearbox
What does the Steve Parker kit do? Pretty sure that mine just bolted straight on, albeit without a bolt or two at the bottom (been like it for 8 years with no probs though)Yeah it does pretty much mate up.
So new clutch plate to match the spine on the Series box.
And you also drill and tap some holes from the timing case to the block. On a Disco you have long bolts that go through from the bell housing. Without these the bottom half is mostly being supporting by the shaft and can cause crank oil seal issues.
So new clutch plate to match the spine on the Series box.
And you also drill and tap some holes from the timing case to the block. On a Disco you have long bolts that go through from the bell housing. Without these the bottom half is mostly being supporting by the shaft and can cause crank oil seal issues.
Edited by 300bhp/ton on Wednesday 27th April 19:02
It looks amazing. I rebuilt a series 2 from the ground up and fitted a 200tdi and I never got on with how it felt so lost motivation for the last few jobs and sold it, if I could go back again I would have fitted a V8 or a 2.25 petrol.
I have a 110 and I love it, it is all the Land Rover I ever wanted, I look back at it when I park it up and smile when I open the curtain in the morning but I can never escape the thought that it would be complimented perfectly by a Series!
I have a 110 and I love it, it is all the Land Rover I ever wanted, I look back at it when I park it up and smile when I open the curtain in the morning but I can never escape the thought that it would be complimented perfectly by a Series!
300bhp/ton said:
[/URL]Any issues with exhaust grounding out? Maybe it's just the angle of the above shot, it looks a little vulnerable where it routes around the gearbox crossmember.
Cheers.
I've not competed yet in it. But it has been round a few trials sections. And I'm using it in two weekends time to setup an event.
Re: the exhaust. I think with some persuasion it'll tuck up a bit higher. Although it is following the standard routing of the exhaust. I think the silver exhaust on the black chassis and the fact I've got the side sill panels removed make it stand out more than maybe it actually is.
That said, the short wheel base has meant it's not yet caused an issue on anything I've driven it on. Although time will tell if it will be an issue.
Re: the exhaust. I think with some persuasion it'll tuck up a bit higher. Although it is following the standard routing of the exhaust. I think the silver exhaust on the black chassis and the fact I've got the side sill panels removed make it stand out more than maybe it actually is.
That said, the short wheel base has meant it's not yet caused an issue on anything I've driven it on. Although time will tell if it will be an issue.
Finally got chance to really test the suspension this weekend. Spent most of Saturday setting up an RTV event for Chiltern Vale Land Rover Club, at the Brickhill site.
This gave great opportunity to test it out thoroughly. And not just the suspension.
The Tdi performed flawlessly as did the p38a power steering.
The vehicle now feels extremely capable and didn't really suffer from traction at all during the setup.
It's still not an 'extreme' setup and I believe just some longer shackles would likely improve the suspensions articulation even more, although run the risk of prop binding and pinion angle issues.
But I think anyone with a stock leafer, or even a coil 90 would have to agree, it flexes pretty good for what it is.
And although a few people have commented on the exhaust looking like it hangs low, I can attest and say it didn't get hung up on anything all day either. So quite pleased with this.
This gave great opportunity to test it out thoroughly. And not just the suspension.
The Tdi performed flawlessly as did the p38a power steering.
The vehicle now feels extremely capable and didn't really suffer from traction at all during the setup.
It's still not an 'extreme' setup and I believe just some longer shackles would likely improve the suspensions articulation even more, although run the risk of prop binding and pinion angle issues.
But I think anyone with a stock leafer, or even a coil 90 would have to agree, it flexes pretty good for what it is.
And although a few people have commented on the exhaust looking like it hangs low, I can attest and say it didn't get hung up on anything all day either. So quite pleased with this.
At last got round to fitting my X-Brake about 10 days back.
Fairly straight forward, although took many hours as there is quite a bit to do. The instructions were a little vague at times and the kit was missing 2 bolts. But all fitted and working. And I can report it's effectiveness. And highly recommend.
I also temporarily swapped my 7.50 16 Diamonds for some very rare 8.25 16 XZL's. An 8.25 is a mid way size between the more common 7.50 and 9.00. They are just over 33" tall and compared to a 7.50 XZL are a good 2" or so taller.
Also have been working on repairing the dashboard. Some in progress pics, it's now painted and back in the vehicle.
Parked up next to my Uncles new this year Puma.
CB radio also fitted (Thunderpole T-1000). And took the 88 to a local classic car show (Classics in the Walled Garden at Luton Hoo, for those that know the area). It seemed to a get positive responsive for the most part, despite being rather less shiny than the majority of the 500+ cars that attend the show.
Fairly straight forward, although took many hours as there is quite a bit to do. The instructions were a little vague at times and the kit was missing 2 bolts. But all fitted and working. And I can report it's effectiveness. And highly recommend.
I also temporarily swapped my 7.50 16 Diamonds for some very rare 8.25 16 XZL's. An 8.25 is a mid way size between the more common 7.50 and 9.00. They are just over 33" tall and compared to a 7.50 XZL are a good 2" or so taller.
Also have been working on repairing the dashboard. Some in progress pics, it's now painted and back in the vehicle.
Parked up next to my Uncles new this year Puma.
CB radio also fitted (Thunderpole T-1000). And took the 88 to a local classic car show (Classics in the Walled Garden at Luton Hoo, for those that know the area). It seemed to a get positive responsive for the most part, despite being rather less shiny than the majority of the 500+ cars that attend the show.
Last weekend spent 4 days green laning in Wales. Did 440 miles in 4 days.
The Series went very well. Very impressed with the fuel consumption, best I've ever had from a Tdi, so much so I didn't believe it at first and had to work the figures out 3 times before I would accept it.
36mpg on the way there. And 30mpg combined for the entire trip.
There were 5 us in the group, a 1953 V8 Series 1, two Tdi Ninety's and a Tdi Defender 90.
Did a mix of lanes (sorry not many pics of mine). Including the famed Strata Florida.
The 8.25 tyres helped a bit on the road, but cruising speed really is limited to 50-52mph. Anymore and the revs are just too high for continual driving.
Over drives do seem appealing, but at £1500 are not on the cards at the moment. Think I'll try a pair of 3.54:1 diffs first and see how I get on.
The Series went very well. Very impressed with the fuel consumption, best I've ever had from a Tdi, so much so I didn't believe it at first and had to work the figures out 3 times before I would accept it.
36mpg on the way there. And 30mpg combined for the entire trip.
There were 5 us in the group, a 1953 V8 Series 1, two Tdi Ninety's and a Tdi Defender 90.
Did a mix of lanes (sorry not many pics of mine). Including the famed Strata Florida.
The 8.25 tyres helped a bit on the road, but cruising speed really is limited to 50-52mph. Anymore and the revs are just too high for continual driving.
Over drives do seem appealing, but at £1500 are not on the cards at the moment. Think I'll try a pair of 3.54:1 diffs first and see how I get on.
300bhp/ton said:
Over drives do seem appealing, but at £1500 are not on the cards at the moment. Think I'll try a pair of 3.54:1 diffs first and see how I get on.
Try an Ashcroft transfer box first.Definitely on my Xmas list...
http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/the-series...
TooMany2cvs said:
300bhp/ton said:
Over drives do seem appealing, but at £1500 are not on the cards at the moment. Think I'll try a pair of 3.54:1 diffs first and see how I get on.
Try an Ashcroft transfer box first.Definitely on my Xmas list...
http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/the-series...
smn159 said:
TooMany2cvs said:
300bhp/ton said:
Over drives do seem appealing, but at £1500 are not on the cards at the moment. Think I'll try a pair of 3.54:1 diffs first and see how I get on.
Try an Ashcroft transfer box first.Definitely on my Xmas list...
http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/the-series...
smn159 said:
Amazing that overdrives are now that much - mine cost me £250 just a couple of years ago
I thought they were nearer £500-ish for something that was as near to guaranteed good as possible, with £3-400 for something untested. But... <shrug>Gassing Station | Readers' Cars | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff