Attempting to build the fastest road legal Elan in the world
Discussion
I am not sure how to go about this, as I have thousands of photos :-)
I will try sorting posts into parts of the car, but not in any particular chronological order.
Front suspension. Basically standard, except for Spyder tubular bottom wishbones, adjustable top wishbones and a ball jointed vertical link. Oh, and aluminium hubs from Pro Alloy. I wanted to be able to adjust the camber but the only commercially available units had to be removed for adjustment. As you won't get it right first time this means removing them at least twice. I decided to design my own that would be adjustable in-situ and also allow caster adjustment as well, which is the reason the vertical link screw trunnion was changed to a ball joint.
I kept the discs as solid for weight saving. Also, with ally 4 pot calipers braking will be more than adequate. Hell, the old cast iron 2 pots were fine. The discs were skimmed, drilled and wavy edged. Calipers are by H-Spec.
The dampers are bespoke items designed specifically for my car's weight and spec by Black Art Designs. Springs are Eibach (what else? :-))
The droop limiter is adjustable.
Bolts are titanium wherever pssible.
I will try sorting posts into parts of the car, but not in any particular chronological order.
Front suspension. Basically standard, except for Spyder tubular bottom wishbones, adjustable top wishbones and a ball jointed vertical link. Oh, and aluminium hubs from Pro Alloy. I wanted to be able to adjust the camber but the only commercially available units had to be removed for adjustment. As you won't get it right first time this means removing them at least twice. I decided to design my own that would be adjustable in-situ and also allow caster adjustment as well, which is the reason the vertical link screw trunnion was changed to a ball joint.
I kept the discs as solid for weight saving. Also, with ally 4 pot calipers braking will be more than adequate. Hell, the old cast iron 2 pots were fine. The discs were skimmed, drilled and wavy edged. Calipers are by H-Spec.
The dampers are bespoke items designed specifically for my car's weight and spec by Black Art Designs. Springs are Eibach (what else? :-))
The droop limiter is adjustable.
Bolts are titanium wherever pssible.
Edited by stevebroad on Friday 30th December 18:39
This is awesome. It kinda feels like that moment in Gran Turismo where you've built up so many credits that throwing huge amounts of money at basic cars just to obliterate the opposition in a one-make single event still seems like money well spent!
Look forward to seeing / reading more.
Look forward to seeing / reading more.
Thanks guys, it has taken a lot of time but I am getting there.
Rear suspension.
The original 3-point Chapman Strut/bottom wishbone setup would not have been able to cope with 500+bhp so it had to be modified. Beyond my skill and knowledge so I delegated this task to Graham Hatherway. We used the original bottom wishbone but replaced the Chapman strut with a top wishbone and a coilover. The hub carrier was replaced with a bespoke item designed and built by Graham to house RS Cosworth hubs, CV joints, rotors and calipers. Later in the build the calipers were changed to Hi-Spec 2 pots and the CV joints with lightweight Porsche 933 racing versions (which I had lightened some more :-) )
However, over a few years of building/rethinking and plan changes it became obvious that the damper position restricted wheel width. I saw an elan where the damper had been moved to the bottom and mentioned this to Graham. He immediately responded with "If you are going to move them, why not inboard?" So, after a lot of research and using the experience of Graham's friend and race partner, Bob Buck, an inboard damper setup was designed and suitable dampers commissioned. It turned out OK, but the proof of the pudding will be in the eating :-) The top wishbone is adjustable in-situ and the bottom one likewise.
Rear suspension.
The original 3-point Chapman Strut/bottom wishbone setup would not have been able to cope with 500+bhp so it had to be modified. Beyond my skill and knowledge so I delegated this task to Graham Hatherway. We used the original bottom wishbone but replaced the Chapman strut with a top wishbone and a coilover. The hub carrier was replaced with a bespoke item designed and built by Graham to house RS Cosworth hubs, CV joints, rotors and calipers. Later in the build the calipers were changed to Hi-Spec 2 pots and the CV joints with lightweight Porsche 933 racing versions (which I had lightened some more :-) )
However, over a few years of building/rethinking and plan changes it became obvious that the damper position restricted wheel width. I saw an elan where the damper had been moved to the bottom and mentioned this to Graham. He immediately responded with "If you are going to move them, why not inboard?" So, after a lot of research and using the experience of Graham's friend and race partner, Bob Buck, an inboard damper setup was designed and suitable dampers commissioned. It turned out OK, but the proof of the pudding will be in the eating :-) The top wishbone is adjustable in-situ and the bottom one likewise.
Edited by stevebroad on Friday 30th December 21:12
jontysafe said:
Nice!!
Have you considered a more modern turbo set up?
I'm aiming for the same sort of power on my YB build.
Thanks. You have allthatjazz to thank for this thread as he accused me of being full of male cow excrement when I asked for help in finding an old thread of this build that I thought I had started some time ago (it turns out I hadn't). I probably am but at least I am also trying to build a car. I checked his profile and I can't see any building work going on (may have missed it, if so I apologise). Oh, well, each to his own :-)Have you considered a more modern turbo set up?
I'm aiming for the same sort of power on my YB build.
The turbo was built over ten years ago and was pretty much state of the art then. Once the car is working (enough to do without messing with stuff already done) and I am able to use all of the available power then I will look into twin scrolling etc. 520bhp is a lot easier to achieve these days, almost a starting point for serious power :-)
Edited by stevebroad on Saturday 31st December 09:40
jontysafe said:
I'm aiming for slightly less weight than yours and probably exactly the same power wise.
Engine spec is very different but as you say 500bhp is easy these days.
Just looked up your thread. Should make for an interesting drive :-)Engine spec is very different but as you say 500bhp is easy these days.
Have you sorted the rad issue? I did a fair bit of research on the subject and still got it wrong. I will be blocking off the extra inlet I cut as I was getting too much air into the volume in front of the rad. As I understand it, the starting ball park ratio is around 3:1 rad area:inlet area with no air able to pass around the rad. This allows the air to expand thereby reducing speed which increases the pressure. As the quest is to get the biggest pressure differential between the rad faces the slower the inlet air speed the better. Well, that's how I understand it. Placing the rad at the rear will add a fair bit of weight in pipe and fluid :-)
I will be using Evans coolant. However, many tracks don't like it, or any additives to water for that matter, as they are very slippery when spread over the track. However, with the very low pressure of an Evans system, the risk of leaks is greatly reduced.
How are you planning to transfer the power to the ground? I think that I am going to have trouble and my car will be heavier.
OK, now for my personal folly....my steering wheel.
I wanted to be able to reach all the main controls when strapped in and the only logical place was the steering wheel. I looked at fitting them in the centre console, but there was the risk of them being knocked and there isn't a lot of room, what with the hydraulic handbrake and the pneumatics for the gear change already under there.
I always hankered after an F1 style wheel but the cost is prohibitive, so I decided to make my own. No, don't laugh, I did say that this was my folly :-)
I decided what controls I wanted near to hand:
Digital dash (Dash2)
Launch control
Traction control
Line Lock
Indicators
Parachute release
Nirous (in case fitted at a later date - I have the kit)
Flappy paddles
Spare
After a few abortive designs I settled on this. I like it, which is all that matters really. If the gap between wheel and centre section proves to be too small I have another wheel which is an inch wider.
I wanted to be able to reach all the main controls when strapped in and the only logical place was the steering wheel. I looked at fitting them in the centre console, but there was the risk of them being knocked and there isn't a lot of room, what with the hydraulic handbrake and the pneumatics for the gear change already under there.
I always hankered after an F1 style wheel but the cost is prohibitive, so I decided to make my own. No, don't laugh, I did say that this was my folly :-)
I decided what controls I wanted near to hand:
Digital dash (Dash2)
Launch control
Traction control
Line Lock
Indicators
Parachute release
Nirous (in case fitted at a later date - I have the kit)
Flappy paddles
Spare
After a few abortive designs I settled on this. I like it, which is all that matters really. If the gap between wheel and centre section proves to be too small I have another wheel which is an inch wider.
Drivetrain
Engine:
Gearbox. Elite il300 6 speed sequential:
Diff. Cosworth 7.5" 3.85:1 with Quaife ATB fitted.
Bespoke rifle drilled drive shafts designed for 650bhp. They are the same length so that torque twist is even and I only need one spare :-)
Porsche 933 Race CVs lightened
Aluminium bearing carriers and caliper brackets. Lightened Cosworth wheel hubs.
Engine:
Gearbox. Elite il300 6 speed sequential:
Diff. Cosworth 7.5" 3.85:1 with Quaife ATB fitted.
Bespoke rifle drilled drive shafts designed for 650bhp. They are the same length so that torque twist is even and I only need one spare :-)
Porsche 933 Race CVs lightened
Aluminium bearing carriers and caliper brackets. Lightened Cosworth wheel hubs.
Edited by stevebroad on Saturday 31st December 15:45
Interesting build, especially like the suspension. I also competed in the Street Racer Championship around that time. Mk1 V6 Capri with nitrous, about 200bhp + what I thought was 50bhp nitrous but turned out to be only 25bhp. We would've been in the same class.
I think I remember a Lotus competing.
I think I still have a couple of magazines with the write up, I'll see if I can find them.
I think I remember a Lotus competing.
I think I still have a couple of magazines with the write up, I'll see if I can find them.
Edited by SlimJim16v on Saturday 31st December 17:02
SlimJim16v said:
Interesting build. I also competed in the Street Racer Championship around that time. Mk1 V6 Capri with nitrous, about 200bhp + what I thought was 50bhp nitrous but turned out to be only 25bhp. We would've been in the same class.
I think I still have a couple of magazines with the write up, I'll see if I can find them.
Jim, London (3.0 Ford Capri) 15.04/96 ? I think I still have a couple of magazines with the write up, I'll see if I can find them.
I have all the mags, sad person that I am :-)
I didn't make the eliminations in 85, a cam follower exploded during a qualifying run.
Photo is from an earlier year:
Edited by stevebroad on Saturday 31st December 17:35
Edited by Jack Mansfield on Thursday 30th January 12:17
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