2002 SAAB 9-3 2.0 Aero Coupe?
Discussion
That looks great! With more of them appearing in various forums I use, the more I regret selling mine at the start of the year. Even though the 9-5 that replaced it is technically better in almost every way, if I'm honest, I preferred the 9-3!
A noobtune is definitely recommended, the guy that bought mine had it done a few weeks back and has said it's totally transformed the car.
A noobtune is definitely recommended, the guy that bought mine had it done a few weeks back and has said it's totally transformed the car.
Had a closer look around the car this morning in the daylight and overall it does appear a decent buy.
There's plenty of pad left on the brakes so the long pedal might just be a quick bleed or adjustment job.
Two of the wheels were refurbed, but these two still need doing
There's a set of four new SAAB centre caps in the glove box and the wheels have SAAB valve caps so one previous owner clearly had a spot of SAAB-OCD.
The rear arches are starting to go but are not horrific, I may get these tidied up sooner rather than later
The front bumper/splitter has some minor damage but should be easily repairable
All in all, I'm quite pleased although I am about to go outside to check how much smoke it creates form a cold start with the valve seals...
There's plenty of pad left on the brakes so the long pedal might just be a quick bleed or adjustment job.
Two of the wheels were refurbed, but these two still need doing
There's a set of four new SAAB centre caps in the glove box and the wheels have SAAB valve caps so one previous owner clearly had a spot of SAAB-OCD.
The rear arches are starting to go but are not horrific, I may get these tidied up sooner rather than later
The front bumper/splitter has some minor damage but should be easily repairable
All in all, I'm quite pleased although I am about to go outside to check how much smoke it creates form a cold start with the valve seals...
I went through a series of these as company steers back when they were almost new, the best one being the first, a 2001 Aero HOT 3dr
I love them, and keep thinking that a convertible would be a great summer car, as you note the auto box is horrible and missing pixels are de-rigueur but the seats are so comfy and the car as a whole is so nice....
Anyway, good luck with your OP, keep us updated
I love them, and keep thinking that a convertible would be a great summer car, as you note the auto box is horrible and missing pixels are de-rigueur but the seats are so comfy and the car as a whole is so nice....
Anyway, good luck with your OP, keep us updated
K50 DEL said:
I went through a series of these as company steers back when they were almost new, the best one being the first, a 2001 Aero HOT 3dr
I love them, and keep thinking that a convertible would be a great summer car, as you note the auto box is horrible and missing pixels are de-rigueur but the seats are so comfy and the car as a whole is so nice....
Anyway, good luck with your OP, keep us updated
You know you want to...I love them, and keep thinking that a convertible would be a great summer car, as you note the auto box is horrible and missing pixels are de-rigueur but the seats are so comfy and the car as a whole is so nice....
Anyway, good luck with your OP, keep us updated
http://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/2017...
41,000 miles and only a grand.
Seems to have spent a lot of time sitting around so new tyres all round I imagine and a chisel to break off the brakes.
is that under the front end (sorry, my eyes and computer not as sharp as they once were)?
if that's not water then check p/s pipe where it crosses the front of the car. the pipe that always lets go runs from the pump to the nearside front inner wing where there's a union hidden beneath the battery tray.
alternatively, if it's oil, check the cooler pipes first (there's a really nasty bend in them in what is probably the most hostile environment available at the front of the car) and then the oil pressure sender.
if it's p/s pipe then enlist the services of a victorian street urchin to assist with replacing - you'll see why you need a small person once you look at the pipe run. bumper off job and it's a lot easier to change with the cobra off as well but this isn't essential and i find refitting the cobra is just as much trouble as trying to feed the swan neck on the pipe up between the cobra and the pump body. beware the sneaky "looks the same but no way does it fit" alternative pipe that saab somehow and sometimes managed to fit to some cars - best to take the old one with you for comparison. it's the rigid pump end of the pipe that differs and the "sneaky" variant will just not fit.
if it's the oil cooler then quite straightforward. once you've pulled the front of the car off. make sure you get the o-rings out and replace as the old ones rarely seal satisfactorily (go on, ask me how i know that).
the "ghetto" fix for the cooler pipes is to simply loop them, thus bypassing the cooler altogether. will be fine as an emergency running repair but beware blowing the loop open - doesn't take long for the contents of the sump to be pumped out (again, anyone wondering how i found that out ?)
once it's fluid tight again then drop Karl (Noobtune) a line about mapping. tried and tested. if you take the car (rather then mail order) he'll live map it for the same price. fraction of the cost of some other tuners and a persuasively large body of satisfied customers (self included, many times).
just a thought (as you don't mention it, but if you are aware then my apologies) - sump drop done? the B2*5s have a well known sludge issue. solution is sump drop, clean/renew strainer and the PCV upgrade kit. the 2*5s need fully synthetic regularly, once they get a bit older and maintenance schedules get skimped on then the risk increases. sludging is what kills these.
your seats might have the heating pads in them but the car will probably have the loom fitted - most did, especially the later ones. theres a connector in the n/s footwell that needs a feed and many have found that once that's added then heated seats are plug and play. make sure the battery is disconnected before interfering with any seat electricals though. if you forget then you will be greeted by the big red triangle of SRS failure. This fault light doesn't recycle out and Tech2 will be needed (trying to work out how i found that out anyone !?)
good luck with it - i'm on my 13th OG 9-3 Aero at the moment and the current pair will be keepers.
regards
paul
if that's not water then check p/s pipe where it crosses the front of the car. the pipe that always lets go runs from the pump to the nearside front inner wing where there's a union hidden beneath the battery tray.
alternatively, if it's oil, check the cooler pipes first (there's a really nasty bend in them in what is probably the most hostile environment available at the front of the car) and then the oil pressure sender.
if it's p/s pipe then enlist the services of a victorian street urchin to assist with replacing - you'll see why you need a small person once you look at the pipe run. bumper off job and it's a lot easier to change with the cobra off as well but this isn't essential and i find refitting the cobra is just as much trouble as trying to feed the swan neck on the pipe up between the cobra and the pump body. beware the sneaky "looks the same but no way does it fit" alternative pipe that saab somehow and sometimes managed to fit to some cars - best to take the old one with you for comparison. it's the rigid pump end of the pipe that differs and the "sneaky" variant will just not fit.
if it's the oil cooler then quite straightforward. once you've pulled the front of the car off. make sure you get the o-rings out and replace as the old ones rarely seal satisfactorily (go on, ask me how i know that).
the "ghetto" fix for the cooler pipes is to simply loop them, thus bypassing the cooler altogether. will be fine as an emergency running repair but beware blowing the loop open - doesn't take long for the contents of the sump to be pumped out (again, anyone wondering how i found that out ?)
once it's fluid tight again then drop Karl (Noobtune) a line about mapping. tried and tested. if you take the car (rather then mail order) he'll live map it for the same price. fraction of the cost of some other tuners and a persuasively large body of satisfied customers (self included, many times).
just a thought (as you don't mention it, but if you are aware then my apologies) - sump drop done? the B2*5s have a well known sludge issue. solution is sump drop, clean/renew strainer and the PCV upgrade kit. the 2*5s need fully synthetic regularly, once they get a bit older and maintenance schedules get skimped on then the risk increases. sludging is what kills these.
your seats might have the heating pads in them but the car will probably have the loom fitted - most did, especially the later ones. theres a connector in the n/s footwell that needs a feed and many have found that once that's added then heated seats are plug and play. make sure the battery is disconnected before interfering with any seat electricals though. if you forget then you will be greeted by the big red triangle of SRS failure. This fault light doesn't recycle out and Tech2 will be needed (trying to work out how i found that out anyone !?)
good luck with it - i'm on my 13th OG 9-3 Aero at the moment and the current pair will be keepers.
regards
paul
Well, it's not oil at least
Got it up on the jack and had a sniff around, leak is a union weeping here
Have dropped Karl a mail already about a map
but first things first, need to sort this out but the pipes are a b
h and I can't get a socket on to check if a tighten will fix it, going to have to take a few bits off so will get worse before it gets better 
Got it up on the jack and had a sniff around, leak is a union weeping here
Have dropped Karl a mail already about a map
but first things first, need to sort this out but the pipes are a bh and I can't get a socket on to check if a tighten will fix it, going to have to take a few bits off so will get worse before it gets better paulmakin said:
your seats might have the heating pads in them but the car will probably have the loom fitted - most did, especially the later ones. theres a connector in the n/s footwell that needs a feed and many have found that once that's added then heated seats are plug and play. make sure the battery is disconnected before interfering with any seat electricals though. if you forget then you will be greeted by the big red triangle of SRS failure.
I had heard Saab built them with the looms in so was going to take a punt on a couple of switches and go from there. I had a Mk3 Cavalier CDi many years ago that also had the loom for electric seats, it cost me a few quid for a couple of switches and £20 for the pads - I unpicked the seat and retrofitted the pads but crush velour is more forgiving than leather when being manhandled.I only did the base though as the back was still a faff, I just snapped a blade fuse end off and stuffed it in the connector to close the loop as the pads were two part base to back and base only wouldn't work on its own.
is that the turbo water supply ?
not seen a leak there before but i guess it's more than possible. there's a crush washer that seals the banjo to the compressor housing so odds on that's the problem. replacement is pennies.
to fix it you probably should remove the cobra. it's not impossible with it in situ but a seemingly endless faff. you may be able to release the cobra from the compressor end and maneuver it out of the way enough to get onto the banjo bolt, i've had both. if you decide to remove altogether then either remove the bumper (easy) and drive it up on ramps to allow access to release the i/c hose or jack it in stages and slide ramps under the fr wheels so that you can get access to the i/c boost hose clamps. removal of the undertray is a pain and tie-wraps will be your friend when re-fitting
your coolant is very pink btw - could be a sign of good servicing
paul
not seen a leak there before but i guess it's more than possible. there's a crush washer that seals the banjo to the compressor housing so odds on that's the problem. replacement is pennies.
to fix it you probably should remove the cobra. it's not impossible with it in situ but a seemingly endless faff. you may be able to release the cobra from the compressor end and maneuver it out of the way enough to get onto the banjo bolt, i've had both. if you decide to remove altogether then either remove the bumper (easy) and drive it up on ramps to allow access to release the i/c hose or jack it in stages and slide ramps under the fr wheels so that you can get access to the i/c boost hose clamps. removal of the undertray is a pain and tie-wraps will be your friend when re-fitting
your coolant is very pink btw - could be a sign of good servicing
paul
Good Choice OP. I've had a 5 door version in the same colour and interior trim for over 4 years now. It was only bought as a stopgap for shed money but it keeps going without any problems and is so comfortable on a long run. Rust is starting to take its toll on the arches and other areas now so I'm not sure how much longer it'll keep going. It is MOT'd until January so hopefully got at least 6 more months out of it.
The lease car finally went back today so having sorted tax and insurance, I gave the Aero a quick once over and took it out for a spin. I figured I'd rather find any gremlins tonight instead of tomorrow morning before heading to work.
The drip from the turbo coolant pipe has lost about a litre out of the coolant in a month of being sat on the drive so that was topped up and I added a bit of oil too as that was low.
There's no rush to do anything with the oil as it isn't dripping anywhere on the floor and the gaskets all look relatively clean so as per the previous owners suggestion, it's probably just burning a bit as the stem seals are past it.
One of the things the previous owner did as part of trying to isolate the root cause of smoking at startup was to replace the turbo with a new unit - it didn't fix the problem but its probably the reason the coolant is leaking.
Despite being sat for 3 weeks, it started first time and after a little run around to see how the coolant would hold and a second top up of coolant, I took it out for a longer run to stretch its legs.
It feels decidedly old school after climbing out of the PHEV or the Fabia, there are a few more creaks and rattles, the steering actually has some feeling of being attached to the wheels and you have to work just hard enough to find a gear. I'd forgotten what it feels like to actually drive a vaguely involving car...
The power delivery reminds me of a turbo diesel with a docile low down followed by a slug of boost but unlike a tdi, it keeps revving and just pulls and pulls. 3rd gear in particular just seems to sweep around the speedo and left me grinning like a loon.
2nd would be fun except the front tyres are a gnats cock-hair away from the wear bars so there's way too much torque steer. They're legal but I'll be sticking two new tyres on very, very soon.
I cannot remember the last time I went out just for a drive and came home with such a grin on my face
There are a few other jobs on the to do list too that will probably end up determining if I actually do keep this as a banger thread or end up mini-restoing the thing. The SID display and the air con units both need their displays fixing to sort a few missing pixels, the drivers seat belt has a twist in it, all of which are cheap enough to sort out.
If I get vaguely attached to the car, the two front alloys could do with a refurb and the rear arches aren't bad for rust yet either could be caught from bubbling if I did them now, both of these would mean a minor outlay and break my bangernomics rules.
I imagine I'll end up doing them though. If tonight's little run out is anything to go by, I'll be keeping it a while.
The drip from the turbo coolant pipe has lost about a litre out of the coolant in a month of being sat on the drive so that was topped up and I added a bit of oil too as that was low.
There's no rush to do anything with the oil as it isn't dripping anywhere on the floor and the gaskets all look relatively clean so as per the previous owners suggestion, it's probably just burning a bit as the stem seals are past it.
One of the things the previous owner did as part of trying to isolate the root cause of smoking at startup was to replace the turbo with a new unit - it didn't fix the problem but its probably the reason the coolant is leaking.
Despite being sat for 3 weeks, it started first time and after a little run around to see how the coolant would hold and a second top up of coolant, I took it out for a longer run to stretch its legs.
It feels decidedly old school after climbing out of the PHEV or the Fabia, there are a few more creaks and rattles, the steering actually has some feeling of being attached to the wheels and you have to work just hard enough to find a gear. I'd forgotten what it feels like to actually drive a vaguely involving car...
The power delivery reminds me of a turbo diesel with a docile low down followed by a slug of boost but unlike a tdi, it keeps revving and just pulls and pulls. 3rd gear in particular just seems to sweep around the speedo and left me grinning like a loon.
2nd would be fun except the front tyres are a gnats cock-hair away from the wear bars so there's way too much torque steer. They're legal but I'll be sticking two new tyres on very, very soon.
I cannot remember the last time I went out just for a drive and came home with such a grin on my face
There are a few other jobs on the to do list too that will probably end up determining if I actually do keep this as a banger thread or end up mini-restoing the thing. The SID display and the air con units both need their displays fixing to sort a few missing pixels, the drivers seat belt has a twist in it, all of which are cheap enough to sort out.
If I get vaguely attached to the car, the two front alloys could do with a refurb and the rear arches aren't bad for rust yet either could be caught from bubbling if I did them now, both of these would mean a minor outlay and break my bangernomics rules.
I imagine I'll end up doing them though. If tonight's little run out is anything to go by, I'll be keeping it a while.
Bangernomics only works if you don't actually care about the car.
Problem is, it's all too easy for what is meant to be a cheap run-around to exceed all expectations, put a smile on your face and generally get under your skin!
But that's ok! If you like it, splash the cash and look after it!
In my opinion, from the GM900 / 9-3 range, late, big bumper 3 door Aero's are going to be the ones to have in a few years time (in addition to the Viggen, naturally). They are now hard to find in clean, unmolested form.
I doubt they'll ever be worth big money, but I reckon survivors' values will start to creep back up again over the next few years as they approach 20.
Controversial comment coming up!
I now think the '98-'02 9-3 is the last "proper" Saab!! Something I would never have said prior to owning a 9-3 'Aero 'vert myself. I'm not basing this on its technical or engineering content, but purely on the entirely subjective ownership "feel" that it gives me compared to previous 99's, 900's and a 9000. It just feels like a Saab in every way (well documented inherent flaws and all)
Problem is, it's all too easy for what is meant to be a cheap run-around to exceed all expectations, put a smile on your face and generally get under your skin!
But that's ok! If you like it, splash the cash and look after it!
In my opinion, from the GM900 / 9-3 range, late, big bumper 3 door Aero's are going to be the ones to have in a few years time (in addition to the Viggen, naturally). They are now hard to find in clean, unmolested form.
I doubt they'll ever be worth big money, but I reckon survivors' values will start to creep back up again over the next few years as they approach 20.
Controversial comment coming up!
I now think the '98-'02 9-3 is the last "proper" Saab!! Something I would never have said prior to owning a 9-3 'Aero 'vert myself. I'm not basing this on its technical or engineering content, but purely on the entirely subjective ownership "feel" that it gives me compared to previous 99's, 900's and a 9000. It just feels like a Saab in every way (well documented inherent flaws and all)
99t said:
I doubt they'll ever be worth big money, but I reckon survivors' values will start to creep back up again over the next few years as they approach 20.
In part it's kind of why I picked a slightly more obscure car like this than another 330/540 BMW or Merc CLK, they're never going to be worth loads but they're never going to be worth nothing, not that there's much depreciation to come out of £800 99t said:
I now think the '98-'02 9-3 is the last "proper" Saab!! Something I would never have said prior to owning a 9-3 'Aero 'vert myself. I'm not basing this on its technical or engineering content, but purely on the entirely subjective ownership "feel" that it gives me compared to previous 99's, 900's and a 9000. It just feels like a Saab in every way (well documented inherent flaws and all)
I had a 1998 9-5 2.0lpt a few years ago as a stop gap and it feels very similar to that. This more than the 9-5 reminds me of my Mk3 Cavaliers of old in many respects, it even smells like my old cdx did inside, maybe that's just nostalgia kicking in.As an aside, it managed a respectable 33mpg on the commute to day and the coolant leak seems to have resolved itself but I'll be watching it, might just be one of those things that appear when a car sits around for weeks without moving, will keep an eye on it for now.
They're not bad on juice really - I've averaged over 34mpg from mine over the last 12 months on a mix of long runs and medium length commutes.
Of course I only ever drive it with the roof down and that does encourage sensible cruising speeds, although as I said elsewhere, roof down with my ears flapping in the breeze
can't be good for economy!!
Enjoy
Of course I only ever drive it with the roof down and that does encourage sensible cruising speeds, although as I said elsewhere, roof down with my ears flapping in the breeze
can't be good for economy!! Enjoy
I'm going to try and keep kidding myself I'm not getting attached to the old girl but I've found myself on Ebay picking up a few little bits.
Although the body work is pretty much ok, the rusty fuel filler flap was letting the side down a little bit, so a new one was ordered, a bit steep at £19.99 but it was the right colour and saved me the faff of trying to sand back the original or repaint a new one.
Pretty good match except I'm now one sticker away from a misfuel
The filler cap now puts the rest of the car to shame so I should probably give it a wash and a polish/wax. It's so long since I owned my own car that I don't even have a sponge, let alone a complex arrangement of buckets, grit guards and mitts, etc.
Although the body work is pretty much ok, the rusty fuel filler flap was letting the side down a little bit, so a new one was ordered, a bit steep at £19.99 but it was the right colour and saved me the faff of trying to sand back the original or repaint a new one.
Pretty good match except I'm now one sticker away from a misfuel
The filler cap now puts the rest of the car to shame so I should probably give it a wash and a polish/wax. It's so long since I owned my own car that I don't even have a sponge, let alone a complex arrangement of buckets, grit guards and mitts, etc.
The boot needs a bit of adjustment as it was sitting too low and has actually cracked the rear light clusters.
It isn't noticeable from the outside at all unless you were up close enough to snort coke from the rear spoiler but I know they're broken now so at some point I'll get new clusters.
The boot has rubber screws that act as stopped and these had worked their way in a bit.
I just unscrewed them out to meet the bump stops and now the boot sits level.
I'm also optimistic that it will have cured an ongoing squeak from the boot over bumps, although it will be difficult tell for a while as the auxiliary belt has started making a racket, making the Aero sound intermittently like an old Routemaster bus.
It's not entirely unexpected as the previous owner highlighted this on collection and had left this in the boot for me. It may not fix it though as I think the noise is actually from a different pulley so I'll work my way through them for the sake of a few bob.
It isn't noticeable from the outside at all unless you were up close enough to snort coke from the rear spoiler but I know they're broken now so at some point I'll get new clusters.
The boot has rubber screws that act as stopped and these had worked their way in a bit.
I just unscrewed them out to meet the bump stops and now the boot sits level.
I'm also optimistic that it will have cured an ongoing squeak from the boot over bumps, although it will be difficult tell for a while as the auxiliary belt has started making a racket, making the Aero sound intermittently like an old Routemaster bus.
It's not entirely unexpected as the previous owner highlighted this on collection and had left this in the boot for me. It may not fix it though as I think the noise is actually from a different pulley so I'll work my way through them for the sake of a few bob.
There are a few jobs that can be put off but I figured it was about time to replace the front tyres as they were as marginal as you could legally get.
Ordinarily, I would have bought a new set of tyres and did price up a half decent set to cure some of the torque steer. Despite keeping a watchful on eye on my spends, the wife agreed tyres were a consumable and did not need to come out of my 'pocket money'.
So cash in hand, I devised a cunning plan to sort out the tyres and also take care of the knackered alloys at the front (one of which was now leaking air pressure form the tyre at around 2 psi per day).
With some ebay sniffing and forum browsing, I found a set of the same double Y alloys for £85. Two of them were totally buggered and two were better than the ones I had on the front. Crucially they had a good 4mm or so of tyre life left in each tyre, probably enough to see me through October's MOT.
As an added bonus, the two with the best tread were the best alloys so I dodge the need/cost to swap tyres and rims around.
Handling is all relative and although the fronts are now mismatched brands (horror), the fact they have more than 1.6mm of tread means they have improved the handling no end, especially under acceleration. It is not suddenly a pinpoint accurate weapon, it still squirms under full throttle and has the precision of a North Korean missile around corners but it no longer wants to pitch me int the hedge unless I'm pointing straight ahead. I think that's progress.
Disclaimer
I recognise such activties are PH sacrilege and tantamount to buying remoulds but to be honest, I could have put the elastic from my undercrackers on the rims and had more grip than was left in the current tyres. Yes, they're my only connection to the road, etc, but I don't drive anywhere near 7/10ths on the road on my commute, let alone 10/10th and if I do have to do the moose test in real life, I guess I'll just have to die as an example to you all.
Ordinarily, I would have bought a new set of tyres and did price up a half decent set to cure some of the torque steer. Despite keeping a watchful on eye on my spends, the wife agreed tyres were a consumable and did not need to come out of my 'pocket money'.
So cash in hand, I devised a cunning plan to sort out the tyres and also take care of the knackered alloys at the front (one of which was now leaking air pressure form the tyre at around 2 psi per day).
With some ebay sniffing and forum browsing, I found a set of the same double Y alloys for £85. Two of them were totally buggered and two were better than the ones I had on the front. Crucially they had a good 4mm or so of tyre life left in each tyre, probably enough to see me through October's MOT.
As an added bonus, the two with the best tread were the best alloys so I dodge the need/cost to swap tyres and rims around.
Handling is all relative and although the fronts are now mismatched brands (horror), the fact they have more than 1.6mm of tread means they have improved the handling no end, especially under acceleration. It is not suddenly a pinpoint accurate weapon, it still squirms under full throttle and has the precision of a North Korean missile around corners but it no longer wants to pitch me int the hedge unless I'm pointing straight ahead. I think that's progress.
Disclaimer
I recognise such activties are PH sacrilege and tantamount to buying remoulds but to be honest, I could have put the elastic from my undercrackers on the rims and had more grip than was left in the current tyres. Yes, they're my only connection to the road, etc, but I don't drive anywhere near 7/10ths on the road on my commute, let alone 10/10th and if I do have to do the moose test in real life, I guess I'll just have to die as an example to you all.
Edited by stewjohnst on Tuesday 11th July 03:21
I had some alloy wheel cleaner and sealant lying around in the garage (an unused birthday present) so at no cost, I cleaned up the wheels to be fitted and bolted them on.
When I bought the car, there were also four new centre caps in the glove box, so again at zero cost, these were slapped in.
The Outlander PHEV came in useful too - it's poxy tyre compressor nearly killed itself inflating these to 2,4 bar from zero
When I bought the car, there were also four new centre caps in the glove box, so again at zero cost, these were slapped in.
The Outlander PHEV came in useful too - it's poxy tyre compressor nearly killed itself inflating these to 2,4 bar from zero
Edited by stewjohnst on Tuesday 11th July 01:40
I had some alloy wheel cleaner and sealant lying around in the garage (an unused birthday present) so at no cost, I cleaned up the wheels to be fitted and bolted them on.
When I bought the car, there were also four new centre caps in the glove box, so again at zero cost, these were slapped in.
The Outlander PHEV came in useful too - it's poxy tyre compressor nearly killed itself inflating these to 2,4 bar from zero.
When I bought the car, there were also four new centre caps in the glove box, so again at zero cost, these were slapped in.
The Outlander PHEV came in useful too - it's poxy tyre compressor nearly killed itself inflating these to 2,4 bar from zero.
Edited by stewjohnst on Tuesday 11th July 01:40
As I'd gone to buy the tyre with cash in hand from my beloved, only a terrible husband would inflate the purchase price ofthe alloys to cover buying a few other bits...
...naturally, I also got the following...
- An extra headrest because I didn't like seeing the gap in the middle,
- Two new rear light clusters to replace the broken set
- A coin tray to replace the ashtray (a very rare item and something I need for a project I'll cover later)
- A New oil filter dipstick as my own oil cap was cracked.
All in it set me back £120 including the alloys, some of which I'll get back after listing the set of four knackered alloys I now have on some random auction site, having paired the duffed two of the four I bought with the two that came off the car.
...naturally, I also got the following...
- An extra headrest because I didn't like seeing the gap in the middle,
- Two new rear light clusters to replace the broken set
- A coin tray to replace the ashtray (a very rare item and something I need for a project I'll cover later)
- A New oil filter dipstick as my own oil cap was cracked.
All in it set me back £120 including the alloys, some of which I'll get back after listing the set of four knackered alloys I now have on some random auction site, having paired the duffed two of the four I bought with the two that came off the car.
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