600bhp 1 Series
Discussion
J4CKO said:
johnwilliams77 said:
J4CKO said:
Cheers,
It ticks so many boxes for me, would be looking at cars in the 20 to 24k bracket, not overly fussed on spec like I said, the main thing is the engine and the overall package for the money, that would be by far the most expensive car I have ever bought for myself, hopefully they will have dropped further by the time I am in a position to buy, reckon am about two months off.
Couldn't stretch to an A45 and to be honest, I think the BMW is more my kind of thing, the Golf R and Audi S3s are nice but the theft aspect scares me, still a thing with the BMW but doesnt seem as prevalent, I suspect being RWD only reduces its usefulness to criminals for getaway purposes, perhaps get a 3 door as well, and remove the rear badge.
They are a bit gawky but there is much worse out there, look better in certain colours and as a 3 door.
Will you be buying one out of warranty? Potentially expensive if something major is to go wrong?It ticks so many boxes for me, would be looking at cars in the 20 to 24k bracket, not overly fussed on spec like I said, the main thing is the engine and the overall package for the money, that would be by far the most expensive car I have ever bought for myself, hopefully they will have dropped further by the time I am in a position to buy, reckon am about two months off.
Couldn't stretch to an A45 and to be honest, I think the BMW is more my kind of thing, the Golf R and Audi S3s are nice but the theft aspect scares me, still a thing with the BMW but doesnt seem as prevalent, I suspect being RWD only reduces its usefulness to criminals for getaway purposes, perhaps get a 3 door as well, and remove the rear badge.
They are a bit gawky but there is much worse out there, look better in certain colours and as a 3 door.
Anyway, have had all sorts and never had a warranty, I would hope a 1 series is fairly robust, most of it is common with other 1 series, its only the engines and gearboxes that would give any major concern.
Definitely a very unique car and I’m struggling to think of a car available today that I’d trade it in for ...
Chris
ScoobyChris said:
J4CKO said:
johnwilliams77 said:
J4CKO said:
Cheers,
It ticks so many boxes for me, would be looking at cars in the 20 to 24k bracket, not overly fussed on spec like I said, the main thing is the engine and the overall package for the money, that would be by far the most expensive car I have ever bought for myself, hopefully they will have dropped further by the time I am in a position to buy, reckon am about two months off.
Couldn't stretch to an A45 and to be honest, I think the BMW is more my kind of thing, the Golf R and Audi S3s are nice but the theft aspect scares me, still a thing with the BMW but doesnt seem as prevalent, I suspect being RWD only reduces its usefulness to criminals for getaway purposes, perhaps get a 3 door as well, and remove the rear badge.
They are a bit gawky but there is much worse out there, look better in certain colours and as a 3 door.
Will you be buying one out of warranty? Potentially expensive if something major is to go wrong?It ticks so many boxes for me, would be looking at cars in the 20 to 24k bracket, not overly fussed on spec like I said, the main thing is the engine and the overall package for the money, that would be by far the most expensive car I have ever bought for myself, hopefully they will have dropped further by the time I am in a position to buy, reckon am about two months off.
Couldn't stretch to an A45 and to be honest, I think the BMW is more my kind of thing, the Golf R and Audi S3s are nice but the theft aspect scares me, still a thing with the BMW but doesnt seem as prevalent, I suspect being RWD only reduces its usefulness to criminals for getaway purposes, perhaps get a 3 door as well, and remove the rear badge.
They are a bit gawky but there is much worse out there, look better in certain colours and as a 3 door.
Anyway, have had all sorts and never had a warranty, I would hope a 1 series is fairly robust, most of it is common with other 1 series, its only the engines and gearboxes that would give any major concern.
Definitely a very unique car and I’m struggling to think of a car available today that I’d trade it in for ...
Chris
J4CKO said:
Been doing some reading, I found something that said that a standard, auto M140i does 100 mph in 9.9 seconds, is that correct ?
Manual is listed as a smidge slower at 10.3.
I read here that the auto does it in 10.8 http://www.automobile-catalog.com/car/2016/2407760...Manual is listed as a smidge slower at 10.3.
This website also lists the X-drive version as doing it in 11.2
I'm wondering if somethings not quite right here.
Thinking of putting a Pipercross Air Filter in my 140 - but am worried about invalidating the warranty, particularly in respect of the engine.
I don't want to find myself in a situation whereby an engine warning light comes on and a BMW dealer throws a bill at me for having put a 3rd party filter in the car.
What are your thoughts?
I don't want to find myself in a situation whereby an engine warning light comes on and a BMW dealer throws a bill at me for having put a 3rd party filter in the car.
What are your thoughts?
Put it on, if you have a warranty claim put the standard one back in ?
Not like a remap that leaves any trace and shouldn't cause any issues, doubt they would open the air box anyway unless it is being serviced and not sure how often if is meant to be, and how often it a actually gets changed.
Not like a remap that leaves any trace and shouldn't cause any issues, doubt they would open the air box anyway unless it is being serviced and not sure how often if is meant to be, and how often it a actually gets changed.
clarkeysntfc said:
Thinking of putting a Pipercross Air Filter in my 140 - but am worried about invalidating the warranty, particularly in respect of the engine.
I don't want to find myself in a situation whereby an engine warning light comes on and a BMW dealer throws a bill at me for having put a 3rd party filter in the car.
What are your thoughts?
Why do you want to put in the pipercross air filter? Better sound?I don't want to find myself in a situation whereby an engine warning light comes on and a BMW dealer throws a bill at me for having put a 3rd party filter in the car.
What are your thoughts?
As long as it’s not an induction kit I’d guess it’s probably fine.
clarkeysntfc said:
Thinking of putting a Pipercross Air Filter in my 140 - but am worried about invalidating the warranty, particularly in respect of the engine.
I don't want to find myself in a situation whereby an engine warning light comes on and a BMW dealer throws a bill at me for having put a 3rd party filter in the car.
What are your thoughts?
As stated, it's a very simple part to swap back to standard should you require the car to be taken to a dealer for any work, not that I imagine they would be particularly worried.I don't want to find myself in a situation whereby an engine warning light comes on and a BMW dealer throws a bill at me for having put a 3rd party filter in the car.
What are your thoughts?
That said, I have a Pipercross filter, and there is very little difference to the induction noise over standard, so if you were thinking of doing it for this reason, you probably won't be that impressed by it anyway.
Brilliant reading this thread and missing my late 16 model m135i. I did touch 155mph in Germany in it and it had no problem getting there !
Love the 640 cut pipes and it's making me way to get back in to another one.
Like many have said in my view there is not another car like this for the money or at least not with a stonking 6 cylinder engine.
Love the 640 cut pipes and it's making me way to get back in to another one.
Like many have said in my view there is not another car like this for the money or at least not with a stonking 6 cylinder engine.
First things first:
That didn't take long
I decided to celebrate the big 20k by driving over some sharp metallic things.
Sadly this wasn't repairable, and to be fair I wasn't far off replacing the tyres anyway, so that cost me a new set of 4 Michelin Pilot Super Sports.
Things got steadily worse from there, and continuing to do a terrible job of not buggering around with it, I've purchased what's referred to as the "Motech Stance Kit". I know I know. I've got a snapback on order, and I'm mixing up my own flavour of vape as we speak.
The kit from Motech Performance consists of Eibach lowering springs, -20mm Front and -25mm rear coils, and some TPI wheel spacers. These are 12mm front spacers, and 15mm rear. The spacers seem good quality, they come with longer bolts and longer locking wheel bolts, and I've had no shimmy or wobbles with them fitted so far.
As I'm an idiot / glutton for punishment I fitted these myself, so if anyone fancies a shot, here's a quick idea of how to do it. Apart from the rears, as being brutally honest I started it far too late at night, and it was 2:30am by the time I got done and I forgot to take any photo's
Anyway, the fronts are the hardest, the rears are a doddle.
Undo the top drop link bolts and move the drop link out of the way. These are a 16 or 17mm nut, with a T30 fitting inside the drop link head to stop it from rotating as you undo the nut, Halfords do these jazzy badgers which make life much easier:
Then you want to undo and remove this bolt from here:
There is a small brake pipe fitting bracket that is held in place by this bolt:
You can then move this back out of the way. The bolt is 19mm and this is it removed:
Ideally you'll have a sexy friend on hand for the next part, as I'd imagine it's much trickier by yourself. Once you've undone the 5 x 13mm top mount bolts inside the engine bay that I also forgot to take a picture of, the strut is basically loose in the wheel arch. You can then persuade your sexy friend to push the hub assembly downwards while you swear profusely and attempt to twist and pull the strut upwards out of said assembly, leaving you with this:
Delicious.
The next part is my favourite by far. Dust off your best pair of cheap coil spring compressors and instantly remember cursing them last time you attempted to use them, swearing you'd get some decent ones and throw these away. Tell yourself it won't be that bad and they're probably OK.
Gingerly wind said compressors to maximum lethal tension, and realise that despite starting to slip alarmingly towards each other round the coil, they haven't really taken that much tension off the strut top anyway.
At this point the Halfords Jazzy Badger 3000's are useful again, as the nut for the strut top bearing is quite deeply recessed, about an inch down into the strut top, so an offset ring spanner won't do.
As luck would have it, my terrible spring compressors managed to do enough of a job so that the strut top bearing didn't fire itself off into the roof as I wound off the top nut, it simply jumped up with a pop whilst I soiled myself and sobbed softly.
The eibach's are a similar size spring uncompressed, which makes refitting the strut tops fun. Again, I used a sexy friend to pop the nut on and get the first few turns on, while I used my not in-considerable body weight to push down further on the strut tops.
As Haynes would say, refitting is simply the reverse of removal.
The rears are very simple. Undo the rear shock bolt and remove, then undo the rear control arm bolt from the hub. You can then swing down the rear control arm and simply remove the spring and change it out. Use a jack to get the control arm back in place and replace the two bolts you removed previously.
The finished article:
I think they've settled a little more since, but I'm happy with how it looks. It doesn't really look as if it's been lowered massively, it just sort of looks "right". And the wheels being spaced out makes it look a little more purposeful, as well as now making it far easier to clean the brake calipers
I haven't done many miles yet, but it seems great so far, reduced body roll, and it doesn't seem to have compromised the ride quality. I'll report back after I've got some miles in.
That didn't take long
I decided to celebrate the big 20k by driving over some sharp metallic things.
Sadly this wasn't repairable, and to be fair I wasn't far off replacing the tyres anyway, so that cost me a new set of 4 Michelin Pilot Super Sports.
Things got steadily worse from there, and continuing to do a terrible job of not buggering around with it, I've purchased what's referred to as the "Motech Stance Kit". I know I know. I've got a snapback on order, and I'm mixing up my own flavour of vape as we speak.
The kit from Motech Performance consists of Eibach lowering springs, -20mm Front and -25mm rear coils, and some TPI wheel spacers. These are 12mm front spacers, and 15mm rear. The spacers seem good quality, they come with longer bolts and longer locking wheel bolts, and I've had no shimmy or wobbles with them fitted so far.
As I'm an idiot / glutton for punishment I fitted these myself, so if anyone fancies a shot, here's a quick idea of how to do it. Apart from the rears, as being brutally honest I started it far too late at night, and it was 2:30am by the time I got done and I forgot to take any photo's
Anyway, the fronts are the hardest, the rears are a doddle.
Undo the top drop link bolts and move the drop link out of the way. These are a 16 or 17mm nut, with a T30 fitting inside the drop link head to stop it from rotating as you undo the nut, Halfords do these jazzy badgers which make life much easier:
Then you want to undo and remove this bolt from here:
There is a small brake pipe fitting bracket that is held in place by this bolt:
You can then move this back out of the way. The bolt is 19mm and this is it removed:
Ideally you'll have a sexy friend on hand for the next part, as I'd imagine it's much trickier by yourself. Once you've undone the 5 x 13mm top mount bolts inside the engine bay that I also forgot to take a picture of, the strut is basically loose in the wheel arch. You can then persuade your sexy friend to push the hub assembly downwards while you swear profusely and attempt to twist and pull the strut upwards out of said assembly, leaving you with this:
Delicious.
The next part is my favourite by far. Dust off your best pair of cheap coil spring compressors and instantly remember cursing them last time you attempted to use them, swearing you'd get some decent ones and throw these away. Tell yourself it won't be that bad and they're probably OK.
Gingerly wind said compressors to maximum lethal tension, and realise that despite starting to slip alarmingly towards each other round the coil, they haven't really taken that much tension off the strut top anyway.
At this point the Halfords Jazzy Badger 3000's are useful again, as the nut for the strut top bearing is quite deeply recessed, about an inch down into the strut top, so an offset ring spanner won't do.
As luck would have it, my terrible spring compressors managed to do enough of a job so that the strut top bearing didn't fire itself off into the roof as I wound off the top nut, it simply jumped up with a pop whilst I soiled myself and sobbed softly.
The eibach's are a similar size spring uncompressed, which makes refitting the strut tops fun. Again, I used a sexy friend to pop the nut on and get the first few turns on, while I used my not in-considerable body weight to push down further on the strut tops.
As Haynes would say, refitting is simply the reverse of removal.
The rears are very simple. Undo the rear shock bolt and remove, then undo the rear control arm bolt from the hub. You can then swing down the rear control arm and simply remove the spring and change it out. Use a jack to get the control arm back in place and replace the two bolts you removed previously.
The finished article:
I think they've settled a little more since, but I'm happy with how it looks. It doesn't really look as if it's been lowered massively, it just sort of looks "right". And the wheels being spaced out makes it look a little more purposeful, as well as now making it far easier to clean the brake calipers
I haven't done many miles yet, but it seems great so far, reduced body roll, and it doesn't seem to have compromised the ride quality. I'll report back after I've got some miles in.
Lovely car OP love the badge 
johnwilliams77 said:
LSD but the crap infotainment p1stonhead said:
I have SO MUCH want for an M140i at the moment having driven one a few months ago. Its eating away at me!
Ditto, no mad hurry as still enjoying my TT, the issue for me is I am changing jobs which has been deffered until the end of April so leaves me with a bit of uncertainty,Was looking at nearly new but kind of thinking I may lease a Shadow Edition,
http://www.bluechillicars.com/personal-contract-hi...
That company are local to me, not that it makes any odds but prices seem ok, might be a bit late by the time I am ready.
Is that a good deal ?
Part of me fancies keeping cash in the bank and it doesnt seem that expensive compared to buying an 18 month old one ?
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