Honda Civic FN2 2007

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Sillyhatday

Original Poster:

441 posts

98 months

Sunday 2nd July 2017
quotequote all
Earlier when I replaced the front discs, I’d replaced both front anti roll bar drop links also. One side was knocking under lots of steering angle.
Last year it was knocking again. I figured it was the same issue again.



Notice the problem already? I noticed when I went to stick the jack underneath. It wouldn’t fit. Which in itself, isn’t unusual. Unless it’s parked on dead level ground – I mean perfect – my standard jack will not fit under the car. I should get a low profile one. I’ve had problems with the undertray scraping on drive way entrances.

There’s you problem



Que




Yes that’s the opposite side. I replaced both springs, which worked as a good reason to inspect each front strut assembly. No problems, just a lot of surface rust on each hub assembly. Nothing that can’t easily be replaced down the line.
Both front dampers have pitted on the main shaft in exactly the same place. The whole casing has a lot of surface rust on them also. They still work just fine, but they’re not long for this world. I’d said to myself, if I have a failure like this I’d buy a full coilover set, though it happens I’d just put a deposit on an MR2. Sods law.




The springs didn’t require much compressing to put back together. For anyone doing this job on one of these. You do not need a spring compressor. Wasted a load of time using one doing this. The spring only needs compressing about 5-10mm, which is easy for another person to gently press down on. Supprisingly little preload but I guess if it can’t jump around at full extention, it’s doing its job.

A few weeks of broken spring certainly threw the alignment out. Inside edge of the tyre.



No bother, outside of both front tyres were like this. Which is all to do with my driving and not alignment.



6 months previous to this I replaced the rear discs. They were original. The pads were replaced some years ago, but when I was doing the yearly service I'd found one of the pads had cocked over and gotten stuck. So a large portion of disc was totally rotten out. no pics.

That’s really all the mechanical jobs I’ve had to do to this car, but there’s still a little more to post.

Usget

5,426 posts

210 months

Monday 3rd July 2017
quotequote all
Had mine for 18 months. Bought on 95k, now on 128k. I echo pretty much everything you've said here!

- Seats are outrageously comfortable, I covered a 3000 mile Europe road trip in mine as the sole driver last year without a hint of backache.
- Sticky calipers - I've had two sets of rear discs in 15k because the garage didn't unstick the caliper properly after the first set. It seems to be fixed now though.
- MPG, I get 31 on a fully motorway tank and 29-30 in mixed driving. Not great, but tolerable.
- Nav is brilliant - I have the updated 2013 disc for Western Europe and it's flawless. Not exactly the most modern graphics but it gets you where you want to go.

To the poster looking to buy one - go for it. 10 plate onwards cars have LSD, which mine definitely lacks. It's nowhere near as chuckable as my old DC2 (what is?) but it's a lot more livable-with day to day.

To anyone looking to buy one at about £3800... buy mine hehe

Sillyhatday

Original Poster:

441 posts

98 months

Monday 3rd July 2017
quotequote all
I know I'm bias but I agree with all you say.

Honestly, the only seats I've found more comfortable, were in a R reg Volvo V70. Cushions the bumpy ride a whole lot.

Economy sounds right on. Not often I use the motorways. (Live right in the countryside, it's B roads everywhere). 30 mpg is easily achievable. What's impressive is mine is on 64000 miles now, yours is on double but yet getting the same efficiency biggrin Solid motor that K series.

How's yours holding up at that mileage? I'm intending on keeping this until it rots away. It's the last chance to enjoy the N/A high RPM hot hatch.

Where did you go for your nav update? I'm still running the 2007 maps. I haven't spoken to Honda as I feel they would want 3 figures for a new disc. I don't use it enough to warrant that sort of money. Yes, the graphics are well outdated, but that doesn't affect the functionality. Since using this satnav, I've used other cars built in ones. I find them frustrating in comparison, its so easy.

I considered a DC2 for a project/weekend car. I still want one, but the need for RWD took over. I just don't have the space for three cars.

Usget

5,426 posts

210 months

Monday 3rd July 2017
quotequote all
I think the engine would happily go to 200k miles so long as it got its daily dose of revs. It feels as strong as an ox and uses hardly any oil compared to some K20s I hear about, it took less than 1 litre in that trip round Europe which was almost all spent at >4k RPM (80-85mph motorway). By comparison the B18 in the DC2 took a litre every thousand miles.

I think the weak point is the hard suspension as you found out. Eventually the bushes and components will start to wear out. Mine has a small click on start and stop, which I think is a top mount bush, but that's it, despite the attrocious roads around here.

They really are well engineered cars, I'd hang onto yours!!

Sillyhatday

Original Poster:

441 posts

98 months

Monday 3rd July 2017
quotequote all
A month after the broken spring incident; time to head to East Kirkby. Dad got me a photo session in front of the Lancaster Bomber for my 25th. There were some really nice classics there, making my daily the least interesting thing there. Loads of old fords (of course), an old Volvo 144 wearing a set of 240 GLT wheels – it looked really smart – and the last thing to catch my attention, a Citroen DS. All very nice.

Lancaster Bomber by Dan Simpson, on Flickr

I’m still kicking myself for forgetting my polarizing filter.
A quick stop for a bacon sandwich and a brew, then a wonder around the whole site. Just took a few photos inside one exhibit.

Spitfire Engine by Dan Simpson, on Flickr
Spitfire Engine by Dan Simpson, on Flickr

Moving on some time, I got cracking on a much needed paint polish. I’ve dabbled at it before but this is my first serious go at a whole car. Firstly, the remaining delivery plastics had to go! It’s been in the passenger door jam going steadily browner.



I’ve not finished photo of the job, as in good lighting a swirly scratched car can be made to look good. Here’s a short video of a comparison shot of the bonnet.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j03FLSK4OCM<&lt... VIDEO

Here’s what the whole front bumper looked like. Really bad problem with stone chipping all over the front of the car. Attacked it with the polisher and it actually reduced their visibility.

before

after


While round the front, the bottom of one headlight started its slow progression into cloudiness. Figure I’ll stab that with the polisher too. Again not perfect but 80% better. Which really is how the whole car turned out.

before

after


I used some cheap 7 inch pads and some nicer 4 inch pads for the tight bits. I’d used G3 and G10 compound before but wanted to test out the claims of Meguiars. I used their ultimate compound and finishing polish. It really seems to work. Followed by some sealant topped with Autoglym HD wax. Stuffed it into the garage for a week while I was off, and used the MR2 for all my errands for a week.

Interior next

Integroo

11,574 posts

84 months

Monday 3rd July 2017
quotequote all
Usget said:
Had mine for 18 months. Bought on 95k, now on 128k. I echo pretty much everything you've said here!

- Seats are outrageously comfortable, I covered a 3000 mile Europe road trip in mine as the sole driver last year without a hint of backache.
- Sticky calipers - I've had two sets of rear discs in 15k because the garage didn't unstick the caliper properly after the first set. It seems to be fixed now though.
- MPG, I get 31 on a fully motorway tank and 29-30 in mixed driving. Not great, but tolerable.
- Nav is brilliant - I have the updated 2013 disc for Western Europe and it's flawless. Not exactly the most modern graphics but it gets you where you want to go.

To the poster looking to buy one - go for it. 10 plate onwards cars have LSD, which mine definitely lacks. It's nowhere near as chuckable as my old DC2 (what is?) but it's a lot more livable-with day to day.

To anyone looking to buy one at about £3800... buy mine hehe
There's a CW with 75k miles nearby for 7k I would buy tomorrow if I could sell my current Car! Haha.

w00tman

603 posts

144 months

Saturday 8th July 2017
quotequote all
I tried one of these based on the earlier comments. However I'm presuming (hoping?) that the clutch was shagged as:

- it was almost impossible to get it into second;
- the clutch returned all of about two inches from the floor; and
- it idled really high

I'm hoping it was a clutch or synchromesh issue and I want to try another one before I write off the whole thing - I presume they aren't known for being a bh to put into gear?

Love the cabin - a big step up from the focus ST-2 I'd driven before and obviously a very different car to drive but I couldn't get it in hear first time even 25% of the time.

MRobbins1987

509 posts

129 months

Saturday 8th July 2017
quotequote all
w00tman said:
I tried one of these based on the earlier comments. However I'm presuming (hoping?) that the clutch was shagged as:

- it was almost impossible to get it into second;
- the clutch returned all of about two inches from the floor; and
- it idled really high

I'm hoping it was a clutch or synchromesh issue and I want to try another one before I write off the whole thing - I presume they aren't known for being a bh to put into gear?

Love the cabin - a big step up from the focus ST-2 I'd driven before and obviously a very different car to drive but I couldn't get it in hear first time even 25% of the time.
Sounds like the clutch to me, they idle high on start up but that should settle after a couple of minutes, give another one a go.

Usget

5,426 posts

210 months

Saturday 8th July 2017
quotequote all
Yep, that clutch sounds chuffed. High idle when cold is expected behaviour though

w00tman

603 posts

144 months

Saturday 8th July 2017
quotequote all
Magic thanks guys. Got a couple of days of work coming up to try and test out a few more examples - suspected clutch was chuffed but I have driven cars with such behaviour before being described as "character".

Good to know on the high idle, too.

Sillyhatday

Original Poster:

441 posts

98 months

Sunday 9th July 2017
quotequote all
High idle is very normal. About 2000rpm. Once up to temp, your looking at 700rpm.

In regards the clutch. Mines had a low bite point for years. Only recently has third required a technique. The problem is my drive to work is constantly up and down gears. I've got some fresh gearbox oil to go in.

Strange thing is, people have had clutches replaced to solve the low bite, and the low bite remain. So some cars it does seem to be a quirk. After a number of years I expected mine to slip by now.

After sitting in a number of these, they all had different bite points, all on close mileage. Obviously use your head, if it's not going in gear there's something wrong.

Sillyhatday

Original Poster:

441 posts

98 months

Friday 19th January 2018
quotequote all
Hello there public forum goers. I totally forgot I had started this, and what with the sudden appearance of threads involving these cars and its predecessor, I thought I should update it somewhat.

Well it has been a mad end to the year, with some real crazy work hours to finish a big project for a well known breakfast 'cereal' company. It's not quite over yet eek So none of the cars have had much attention for the last few months. Even been struggling to keep up with the weekly wash frown

Over the Christmas period I thought, maybe it was time that this car goes. It's had a good run, been so much fun, showed me how to drive a powerful FF layout car, it's still in good condition so lets get rid while I still think good of it. I took a detour on the way for fish and chips to look at an FK2. Wow, what a quality feeling car. After a chat with the dealer, I went for my chips to ponder over it.

With work taking over life for a few months, I totally forgot about the FK2 idea until someone asked me if I had found the right one yet. Over the few months, prices haven't moved an inch. Their current price isn't out of the question but when you don't really want to get rid of your current motor, it's a tough decision.

I took a step back and looked at what I do with my current two cars. The Honda gets driven to work and back, 14 miles a day. The MOT in December showed me I had done 5000 miles in the whole year, the lowest amount I've ever done. I don't even jump in it to just drive for drivings sake anymore. I thought it was the car boring me, but far from it. I love getting into it after being stuck in a work van for a few days. The MR2 only comes out for shows or meets or nice weather errands. That did 2000 miles last year. Then it clicked, I'm getting older, no more late night mcdonalds runs, no more late beer runs, no more pointless driving to listen to music, no more going for pointless drives after work. Spending that much on a car would be wasted with me. So It's been shelved until next year for review.

So on that note, this year I vow to use this car for fun once more. This time traveling further afield, the likes of the Buttertubs Pass, Evo Triangle, Peak District and some Sunday Services smile

So on that note, hows the car doing now (noone asked)? Fine, there's no reason it won't be a solid car for a few years yet. It's just gone through its 5th MOT with me and for the 5th time come out with no advisories. There was only a loose heatshield I spotted while in the air, they seem to rot through around the bolt heads, I'm sure down to being different metals touching each other over time. So a big washer on that secured it for a few more years yet. Surprisingly the rusted nuts came off without much fuss and no breakage! Happy days smile A clean up of the nut threads with tap and they flew back into place. I've already done this for the shield around the backbox a few years back. So this cured a noise under the car when starting it, as it was touching the exhaust.

At the arse end of summer the A/C stopped working. It was intermittent to start with and then stopped. Me being me refused to take it for a regas, as I've done it for every car I've had. So I got myself all the equipment for doing a topup myself (need a vacuum pump to fill an empty system). I got it all connected into the system, opened the manifold valves... tones of gas pressure. st! Cursed myself for 5 minutes on why I'd wasted my money on the manifold and a bunch of R134, the compressor jumped onto life. st! Why's it done that? I thought. Cut to the chase, I broke my own rule of starting simple. After pulling the compressor clutch relay out and testing it, I was getting no continuity through it. The contact points were worn out. £4 posted a new relay in, and flawless A/C ever since. On the bright side, if I need to regas anything, I'm set now.

About the same time there was sun shining and I had nothing much to be doing. So I got outside and figured I'd finally see why my arm rest was loose and why there was a random red wire loose under the steering wheel. This has pictures smile

Wire in question


This has only taken 4 years to get round to it...

Clearly it disappeared into the center console. That's where the lighter socket is, it had to be where it went.

Oh this is why the center console was loose. The bolts that go in these holes were rattling free behind the little trim cover.


Up you come


Hmm, there you are. Underwhelming that it was so simple to figure out.


Console out. Access for the fuel pump and the white box is the yaw sensor for the stability control.


One niggle out the way, next up the back light out for moss removal.


Moss likes to grown in this top channel on top of the light cluster. I spent a whole £1 on some pipe cleaners, the sort of thing you used for a craft project when you were 5. They were prefect for pushing the moss out of the channel. A poor design idea really Honda. When looking at the FK2, the Honda dealer commented on how tidy my FN2 was, particularly the lack of moss growing in the lights smile

This is the channel. which traps water/moisture.


Sadly no pictures of it back together. It really helped tidy the back end up though.

Finally that day, I thought the seat were looking a bit off colour to me. Looking a bit grey instead of that really nice deep black Alcantara look. I broke out the clothes and interior shampoo and scrubbed the whole drivers seat. It's clear that the passenger seat was a grey colour in the photo, but in person the difference was night and day. Hard to believe how dirty they were.



After that around September time it got it's biggest service yet until it hits 75k. When it gets there, it'll need a set of plugs and a valve clearance adjustment. I've just starting gathering parts/tools needed for it, even though at my rate it will be another 2 years before it gets there. I may do it earlier.

The gearbox oil was worth doing. I'd had a slight crunch going into 3rd if you were rough with it, which has now completely gone. It originally had MTF2 fluid which has been superseded by MTF3.


So that's the life of a reliable Honda, unprecedented I know!

Edited by Sillyhatday on Friday 19th January 16:17

designforlife

3,734 posts

162 months

Friday 19th January 2018
quotequote all
Nice, more of an EP3 fan myself but a type R is still a type R smile

75k service coming up on my DC5, my mechanic reckons it'll make quite a bit of difference to the car running wise.



Sillyhatday

Original Poster:

441 posts

98 months

Friday 19th January 2018
quotequote all
I used to be a die hard EP3 or nothing fan, but since come to realize they each have their own character and great in their own way.

I once had a ride in a DC5 and loved it. I'd loved to have had a go to compare the differences. Even as a passenger it had a similar feeling about it, just felt a bit more alive.

Danith

97 posts

117 months

Monday 22nd January 2018
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I've got my Fn2 and an Ep3 - Fn2 for everyday and Ep3 for track days.

Both awesome but I wish I could combine them together!

Fn2 for looks and interior
Ep3 for K20a engine and higher mounted gear shift
Ep3 for ride (as oem)
Fn2 for the LSD gearbox

norush

293 posts

139 months

Monday 22nd January 2018
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OP, How hard is it to remove the rear lights as I have a type s with moss starting to grow there?!

Integroo

11,574 posts

84 months

Monday 22nd January 2018
quotequote all
norush said:
OP, How hard is it to remove the rear lights as I have a type s with moss starting to grow there?!
It's really easy to loosen them off (at least the rear ones - the side ones are more difficult). I did this and attacked the edges with a toothbrush and some dish soap (careful on the paint!). Took a few hours and looks miles better.

norush

293 posts

139 months

Monday 22nd January 2018
quotequote all
Integroo said:
It's really easy to loosen them off (at least the rear ones - the side ones are more difficult). I did this and attacked the edges with a toothbrush and some dish soap (careful on the paint!). Took a few hours and looks miles better.
I seem to remember somebody saying it was a bit of a pig removing the tailgate lights; lots of bolts to undo in awkward places?? Any pointers appreciated!

Integroo

11,574 posts

84 months

Monday 22nd January 2018
quotequote all
norush said:
Integroo said:
It's really easy to loosen them off (at least the rear ones - the side ones are more difficult). I did this and attacked the edges with a toothbrush and some dish soap (careful on the paint!). Took a few hours and looks miles better.
I seem to remember somebody saying it was a bit of a pig removing the tailgate lights; lots of bolts to undo in awkward places?? Any pointers appreciated!
You pop the plastic trim piece off then there's about twelve bolts. Two or so are awkward but not so awkward i couldn't get them off and I'm not particularly handy.

norush

293 posts

139 months

Monday 22nd January 2018
quotequote all
Do I need to remove the whole tailgate interior trim or can it be done via the two easily removed panels? TIA!