Phoenix from the flames - Porsche Boxster with an Audi 2.7T

[Yazza54]

On the oil leaks, have you tried a sealant?

I swear by threebond, it's what's recommended to seal the crankcases on motorcycle engines (no gasket) and various other things, and I've found it to be fantastic stuff. It's much much better than some of the liquid gasket crap you'll typically find in your average parts store.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/301681005776?mkcid=16&a...


On the laser alignment stuff, you have gone a bit OTT really for something that doesn't (or shouldn't) need doing that often. I always applaud DIYers but it's just unnecessary.

At this point I would sell the two kits, and just take it somewhere and get it done properly, and if you want to make adjustments after that there's no reason why you can't do that yourself.

I had my race car fully aligned on a all singing all dancing laser alignment to make sure it was square front to back, but I've still made my own adjustments to toe and camber since then. I just use toe plates across the wheels and two decent tape measures, and for camber I have a high quality inclinometer that I use on a steel box section across the wheel. It really is that simple.

It's quick, easy, and gives me repeatable results, and as long as you make the same change one side to the other there's no need to worry about cocking anything up and needing to spend money on getting it "professionally" realigned again.

Edited by Yazza54 on Monday 23 May 06:10

[Escy]

I've just ordered that sealant, thanks for the recommendation. The reason I initially decided to get some alignment equipment is because the Boxster doesn't seem to stay in one piece very long. Last year I paid for 3 alignments at £100 a pop and it needed another one. I should maybe have gone for a string kit rather than a computerised system that's a bit tired. Those string kits seem really expensive for what they are though. https://www.tegiwaimports.com/ti-motorsport-billet...

I could of course just be getting a bit hung up on numbers unnecessarily, it drives fine at the moment. It might be a case that they are just a lot more accurate then you'd get measuring with a string and ruler, it's hard to tighten up the bolts without moving the numbers from where you want. If I took the car to various Kwikfit branches and got an alignment check, they all use the same equipment and ramps, I bet I'd get different readings on them all. Probably not by much but small differences. Then plan is get it checked compared to a calibrated system and see where I'm at.

[TurboRob]

Love your threads and your DIY cando attitude.

Have you tried the string method to see which of your fancy alignment machines is telling the least lies?

[Bright Halo]

I had my alignment done by Fergus Walkinshaw (son of Tom) and I was surprised that he used the string method and no fancy machines. He told me that in his opinion it was more accurate this way.

[Escy]

The alignment isn't my biggest concern, I'm getting the hump with the constant stream of issues. I can count on one hand how many good drives I've had in it and looking back every one of those have been plagued by issues. I feel like I'm working through problems and the car is developing as I go but I'm getting sick of it. Within the last year and last 1000 miles I've had the power steering pump twice, alternator, cam chain tensioners, constant oil leaks, issues with the rear suspension cannisters, knock control problem on the ECU, car randomly not starting occasionally, driveshafts leaking grease on the pressed joins, sticking brake caliper piston, failed water temperature sensor, blown turbo and probably a load more things I've forgotten.

I haven't got time to constantly be fixing it but on the other hand, if I don't fix it, it'll be a driveway ornament all summer.

The wheel alignment stuff is an interesting side quest but in retrospect was a ridiculous use of my time when I should have just spent 100 on another alignment. I might get rid of the computerised systems and get a string kit but that'll be in the future.

[Bright Halo]

I understand your doubts however please don't forget what you have achieved! The transplant would be difficult for a dedicated company with staff and access to masses of equipment let alone for one bloke in his home garage.
I'm frankly amazed at what you have achieved and the way you have worked through problems and come up with novel solutions. You are a Piston Heads hero pal!
Where you go from here is difficult but it would be great to see it finished. Maybe a bit of outside assistance could help? We all need that in life.
Whatever you decide you should be well chuffed with how far you have come and what you have achieved.

[VSKeith]

Bright Halo said:

I understand your doubts however please don't forget what you have achieved! The transplant would be difficult for a dedicated company with staff and access to masses of equipment let alone for one bloke in his home garage.
I'm frankly amazed at what you have achieved and the way you have worked through problems and come up with novel solutions. You are a Piston Heads hero pal!
Where you go from here is difficult but it would be great to see it finished. Maybe a bit of outside assistance could help? We all need that in life.
Whatever you decide you should be well chuffed with how far you have come and what you have achieved.

Hear hear!

[Escy]

Thank you. I am really proud of it, it's probably the only reason it's still here and I'm plugging away as the effort to reward ratio isn't where it needs to be at the moment.

I'm putting a few days into it, hopefully I can get it all sorted. First thing was to to a leak down test, just to confirm the engine is alright, otherwise I've been fighting a losing battle. The results were the same on all cylinders, no issues there thankfully.

I've replaced the burnt out alternator, fingers crossed that's a one off issue.

P5251348

I have removed the cambelt again and taken off all the covers to look for oil leaks. Part of my issue might be I'm no good at diagnosing the source of the leaks, it spreads everywhere, I'm looking for the highest point that's wet always ends up being the cam covers but one side is definately sealed at the moment and that side of the engine is still leaking oil so it's coming from somewhere else. The cambelt cover makes it look like it's coming from the camshaft seal but the seal itself is dry. I've decided the best plan is to clean everything up, put the cambelt back on without the covers fitted and run the engine and see exactly where it's leaking from. It's a pain in the arse to do but has to be my best shot at finding them (I think there are a few)

I'm changing the power steering pump whilst it's all apart, I wouldn't want to do this job with the cambelt in place as it would cover it in oil.

P5251351

[shalmaneser]

I hope it's not too late but have you considered fitting an electric power steering pump as fitted to the cup racing cars? Might give you some more much needed space in the engine bay and simplify the plumbing too.

[Escy]

I did consider it initially, lots of people with Porsche engine swaps do it, they use electric-hydraulic setups but they always end up fitted right in the middle of the front boot. I've tried really hard to cleverly package things, hiding stuff like the meth tank and charge cooler tank away, I've managed to not use up any luggage space which I think is good going when it's such a small car. When I did my original Boxster I ended up filling the boot with the charge cooler stuff.

There is a chance it's a swap related issue killing them. I'm running an overdrive pulley (Boxster one rather than the larger Audi one) purely due to space. There's a pressure bypass so it shouldn't be an issue, another thing could be they are running hotter than designed for, my engine bay is cramped with no airflow over the front of the engine. The first one had a bearing go but it had done 100k miles, the second one has no issue with the pump itself, it looks like it's leaking from the press fit inlet barb. If this replacement pump I've just fitted doesn't last long either, I'll definately look into an electric-hydraulic set-up.

[Yazza54]

Any scope for using a full electric power steering assembly? A lot of Vauxhall's have a motor on the steering column that provides the assistance, suppose it depends whether you have the space to engineer it to fit but they are cheap and would totally remove any need for steering hydraulics and pump on the engine.

[Yazza54]

Looks like it's something commonly done as this fella is selling a controller kit for it, looks like you can adjust the assistance on a knob

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/403623561744?mkcid=16&a...

[TurboRob]

Escy said:

The wheel alignment stuff is an interesting side quest but in retrospect was a ridiculous use of my time when I should have just spent 100 on another alignment. I might get rid of the computerised systems and get a string kit but that'll be in the future.

Four axle stands, some string and a tape/rule/vernier of your choice is all you need for measuring the tracking. Then a bit of basic trig. It takes 10mins to setup once familiar with the process, and 10mins to measure.

[shalmaneser]

Escy said:

I did consider it initially, lots of people with Porsche engine swaps do it, they use electric-hydraulic setups but they always end up fitted right in the middle of the front boot. I've tried really hard to cleverly package things, hiding stuff like the meth tank and charge cooler tank away, I've managed to not use up any luggage space which I think is good going when it's such a small car. When I did my original Boxster I ended up filling the boot with the charge cooler stuff.

There is a chance it's a swap related issue killing them. I'm running an overdrive pulley (Boxster one rather than the larger Audi one) purely due to space. There's a pressure bypass so it shouldn't be an issue, another thing could be they are running hotter than designed for, my engine bay is cramped with no airflow over the front of the engine. The first one had a bearing go but it had done 100k miles, the second one has no issue with the pump itself, it looks like it's leaking from the press fit inlet barb. If this replacement pump I've just fitted doesn't last long either, I'll definately look into an electric-hydraulic set-up.

Agreed that the mounting is critical but I reckon it could be done a bit cleverly and minimise intrusion into the frunk. I reckon the reduction in plumbing would definitely make it worth it.

[Escy]

Yazza54 said:

Any scope for using a full electric power steering assembly? A lot of Vauxhall's have a motor on the steering column that provides the assistance, suppose it depends whether you have the space to engineer it to fit but they are cheap and would totally remove any need for steering hydraulics and pump on the engine.

I've seen everyone uses a Corsa one on older cars. It would fit in more with my hiding everything away ethos. As it currently is, the steering is perfect, nicely weighted, doesn't feel overly assisted. When Porsche went EPAS on the newer cars everyone complained about it, I can only assume me knocking up a DIY version will be a downgrade in terms of driving.

I've already replaced the pump so I'll see how I get on with it. Got no time for modifications, barely got the time to replace like for like.

[Escy]

TurboRob said:

Four axle stands, some string and a tape/rule/vernier of your choice is all you need for measuring the tracking. Then a bit of basic trig. It takes 10mins to setup once familiar with the process, and 10mins to measure.

I found the axle stands and string to be a pain last time I tried. It's currently driving nicely so it's not too far off. I'll just take it somewhere so I don't waste any more time pissing about.

[Escy]

shalmaneser said:

Agreed that the mounting is critical but I reckon it could be done a bit cleverly and minimise intrusion into the frunk. I reckon the reduction in plumbing would definitely make it worth it.

My mate put one on his 987 with an Audi V8. They are quite big units so it's not that easy to hide and all my hiding places are already taken up. It would be nice to free up some space in the engine bay. If I run into power steering problems in the future I'll look into it a bit more. I'm thinking my latest pump failure was a bit of a one off.

[anonymous-user]

Escy said:

TurboRob said:

Four axle stands, some string and a tape/rule/vernier of your choice is all you need for measuring the tracking. Then a bit of basic trig. It takes 10mins to setup once familiar with the process, and 10mins to measure.

I found the axle stands and string to be a pain last time I tried. It's currently driving nicely so it's not too far off. I'll just take it somewhere so I don't waste any more time pissing about.

I suspect that none of the results you get from companies that track your car are "perfect". They are probably good enough and because there is no point of reference nobody ever knows.

I suspect when your investigation has done is prove this fact, and if you are anything like me you want it to be absolutely perfect and spot on which is just not possible in reality due to variances in the equipment, floor etc.

I struggle to believe that some axle stands and a bit of string are more accurate than the machines you currently own.

"Perfect is the enemy of good"

[Fastdruid]

Escy said:

Yazza54 said:

Any scope for using a full electric power steering assembly? A lot of Vauxhall's have a motor on the steering column that provides the assistance, suppose it depends whether you have the space to engineer it to fit but they are cheap and would totally remove any need for steering hydraulics and pump on the engine.

I've seen everyone uses a Corsa one on older cars. It would fit in more with my hiding everything away ethos. As it currently is, the steering is perfect, nicely weighted, doesn't feel overly assisted. When Porsche went EPAS on the newer cars everyone complained about it, I can only assume me knocking up a DIY version will be a downgrade in terms of driving.

Corsa B is the popular EPAS steering column but heavy, bulky and needs dash reinforcement on some cars because the torque is being put into a structure that it's not designed for.

I went for a Agila A/Wagon R column on my build for three reasons, firstly its smaller, lighter and more compact, secondly it's a perfect length for my usage and finally it has an electromagnetic clutch in so if it's unpowered you don't have the drag of the motor (which you do with the Corsa column).

Corsa B top, Agila A bottom.



Major downside to the Agila A/Wagon R column is there aren't very many boss adaptors available but you can find them.



Other end is easy as it's a double D and trivial to make up.

[Yazza54]

Double D you say