Phoenix from the flames - Porsche Boxster with an Audi 2.7T
Discussion
Wow what a massive difference that made ! Definitely worth the extra effort.
As a side note, I used to 20% methanol added straight into my main fuel tank on my GTO. Do so for 5 years and never had a single failure. Just add 5L neat meth for every 20L SUL . That way I had no pumps to worry about , fail safes failing or any extra plumbing. If I was out of meth , I was out of fuel so never had to worry
As a side note, I used to 20% methanol added straight into my main fuel tank on my GTO. Do so for 5 years and never had a single failure. Just add 5L neat meth for every 20L SUL . That way I had no pumps to worry about , fail safes failing or any extra plumbing. If I was out of meth , I was out of fuel so never had to worry
I want to spray it mixed with water into my charge pipes to help lower the inlet air temperatures. Being in the windscreen washer bottle means I have a light on the dash when it's low.
I bought my methanol and water to mix. I got quite a bit (40 litres when mixed) as I don't know how quickly it'll get through it.
Testing the system at various duty cycles (just water). So I can set up my table to control it on the ECU.
It made more mess than I expected, sprayed into bottles after this!
The ECU uses a switch called a cal pot which is a rotary switch, just 2 wires, only uses up one input on my ECU but has 8 switches, it works off different voltages to determine the position. I can have various settings assigned to each position, the variables on my ECU are rev limits, VVT, traction control, launch control, anti-lag, boost control, ignition table and fuel table. I can make a combination of them all so one setting will be full boost, traction control set high, one can be full boost, traction control set low, etc.
I'm trying to be clever with the wiring, i'm not running new wires all around the car for various things i've added, i'm re-using wires that are now redundant within the original looms (and making detailed notes so I don't forget). For this switch i've run it from the dash to under the seat where it's connected to an unused immobiliser wire and an unused crash signal wire, both of which run to the original ECU plug.
Switch fitted, I had a blank on this part of the dash, on the Boxster S it's for variable windscreen wiper speeds. I painted the marker red so I can see it easier. In retrospect i'd have liked it in anodised black so it is a bit more stealthy, i'll look to get this done in the future. I need to print out some stickers with numbers, the one included is no good .
I bought my methanol and water to mix. I got quite a bit (40 litres when mixed) as I don't know how quickly it'll get through it.
Testing the system at various duty cycles (just water). So I can set up my table to control it on the ECU.
It made more mess than I expected, sprayed into bottles after this!
The ECU uses a switch called a cal pot which is a rotary switch, just 2 wires, only uses up one input on my ECU but has 8 switches, it works off different voltages to determine the position. I can have various settings assigned to each position, the variables on my ECU are rev limits, VVT, traction control, launch control, anti-lag, boost control, ignition table and fuel table. I can make a combination of them all so one setting will be full boost, traction control set high, one can be full boost, traction control set low, etc.
I'm trying to be clever with the wiring, i'm not running new wires all around the car for various things i've added, i'm re-using wires that are now redundant within the original looms (and making detailed notes so I don't forget). For this switch i've run it from the dash to under the seat where it's connected to an unused immobiliser wire and an unused crash signal wire, both of which run to the original ECU plug.
Switch fitted, I had a blank on this part of the dash, on the Boxster S it's for variable windscreen wiper speeds. I painted the marker red so I can see it easier. In retrospect i'd have liked it in anodised black so it is a bit more stealthy, i'll look to get this done in the future. I need to print out some stickers with numbers, the one included is no good .
Last thing before I start tuning it was to make some det cans to detect any knock occuring. There was a really handy grommet in the bulkhead which made running the pipe into the cabin easy. The tape around the pipe is to seal the hole up so no fumes get in. Although i've not run into knock conditions yet, I can hear the engine clearly so i'm sure they'll do the job. Not bad for less than £15.
I think I bought it from cool mist but just checked their website and can't find it. Think it was about £35. I did see Aquamist sell one that looks nice and it's cheaper.
http://www.aquamist-direct.com/806-271-tank-adapto...
http://www.aquamist-direct.com/806-271-tank-adapto...
It's been a while and i've not made much progress, I've been busy with other things. Last month I took the car for an MOT which it passed.
My charge cooler water pump stopped working the first time I took it out to start mapping and i'm not sure why. I couldn't get the car back in the garage so i've just kind of left it. The pump is brand new, it sometimes runs and it sounds fine when it does, I don't think it's got a fault but I've also checked the wiring and it's doing what I expect so i'm a bit unsure what's going on.
I'm going to have to remove the charge cooler water pump and bench test it so I thought i'll make some changes to the system while i'm at it as I want to improve on the expansion tank. I've decided to re-use the one I had on my old Boxster that burnt down (it's looking a bit chargrilled). It will take about 6 litres of coolant rather than the 2 litres the old one takes. I would have utilised it before but didn't know where best to put it. I'm trying to not use up any space in the front or rear boots. The tank needs to be the highest point in the system so there aren't many options where to mount it. I then had the idea to buy a smaller race style battery so I can put the tank where the battery originally was (it sits under the windscreen so it's nice and high). I'd bought a new standard size battery about 2 months ago, wish i'd thought of this then. The plan is the lay the battery flat and mount the tank above it. The new battery weighs less than half of a standard one so once I take into account the weight of the tank and the coolant I should still come in at about the same weight which is nice.
My charge cooler water pump stopped working the first time I took it out to start mapping and i'm not sure why. I couldn't get the car back in the garage so i've just kind of left it. The pump is brand new, it sometimes runs and it sounds fine when it does, I don't think it's got a fault but I've also checked the wiring and it's doing what I expect so i'm a bit unsure what's going on.
I'm going to have to remove the charge cooler water pump and bench test it so I thought i'll make some changes to the system while i'm at it as I want to improve on the expansion tank. I've decided to re-use the one I had on my old Boxster that burnt down (it's looking a bit chargrilled). It will take about 6 litres of coolant rather than the 2 litres the old one takes. I would have utilised it before but didn't know where best to put it. I'm trying to not use up any space in the front or rear boots. The tank needs to be the highest point in the system so there aren't many options where to mount it. I then had the idea to buy a smaller race style battery so I can put the tank where the battery originally was (it sits under the windscreen so it's nice and high). I'd bought a new standard size battery about 2 months ago, wish i'd thought of this then. The plan is the lay the battery flat and mount the tank above it. The new battery weighs less than half of a standard one so once I take into account the weight of the tank and the coolant I should still come in at about the same weight which is nice.
I took the old Pierburg charger cooler water pump off and couldn't get it to run on the bench, not sure what's happened to it, it's about a year old and done 1000 miles on the car. It works intermittently, maybe a bad solder joint or something. I've replaced it with a Davies Craig EBP40, it's rated 35LPH so about the same as the old pump, I have to say it look cheap and nasty in comparison (Pierburg is on the right) but it's got a 2 year warranty so hopefully it does the business.
That's my tank mounted above the battery, happy with how it's turned out. The only draw back will be when I need access to the battery (or fuel tank) it'll be lots of work as i'll need to drain the system. Fingers crossed the battery is up to it. I've fitted a battery cut off switch which i'm sure will be useful, if the car is not going to be used for extended periods I can easily disconnect it. I mounted the new charge cooler pump near the water tank rather than where the old one was, behind a duct in the front bumper. This was because it'll be protected better there.
This is how it looks with the covers on (i'll replace the one with the huge hole in it), all hidden from view, it looks factory other than the battery cut off.
That's my tank mounted above the battery, happy with how it's turned out. The only draw back will be when I need access to the battery (or fuel tank) it'll be lots of work as i'll need to drain the system. Fingers crossed the battery is up to it. I've fitted a battery cut off switch which i'm sure will be useful, if the car is not going to be used for extended periods I can easily disconnect it. I mounted the new charge cooler pump near the water tank rather than where the old one was, behind a duct in the front bumper. This was because it'll be protected better there.
This is how it looks with the covers on (i'll replace the one with the huge hole in it), all hidden from view, it looks factory other than the battery cut off.
Thanks, i'm happy that it's hidden away.
It looks like i've blown something on the ECU. My throttle body doesn't work, the circuit is dead but the wiring is all good. I think I know the cause, on the Boxster when you connect or disconnect the battery you need the key in with the ignition on otherwise the alarm goes off. This has been fine but since i've added the new battery switch to connect or disconnect the battery rather than putting a terminal on. It's been described to me as "because it's the kind of switch that does not make a clicking on/off contact it can arc over". It sounds like I got unlucky as it'd done it lots of times with no problems. Won't be trying my luck again, i'll just let the alarm go nuts from now on.
The ECU will be repaired for me under warranty but it'll probably take a few weeks as it needs to go to Iceland and clear customs each way. Then i'm off on holiday at the end of August, then it's into September and the Summer is pretty much over so it looks like i'm done for another year. I've SORN'd the car now. I managed about 100 miles this year.
It looks like i've blown something on the ECU. My throttle body doesn't work, the circuit is dead but the wiring is all good. I think I know the cause, on the Boxster when you connect or disconnect the battery you need the key in with the ignition on otherwise the alarm goes off. This has been fine but since i've added the new battery switch to connect or disconnect the battery rather than putting a terminal on. It's been described to me as "because it's the kind of switch that does not make a clicking on/off contact it can arc over". It sounds like I got unlucky as it'd done it lots of times with no problems. Won't be trying my luck again, i'll just let the alarm go nuts from now on.
The ECU will be repaired for me under warranty but it'll probably take a few weeks as it needs to go to Iceland and clear customs each way. Then i'm off on holiday at the end of August, then it's into September and the Summer is pretty much over so it looks like i'm done for another year. I've SORN'd the car now. I managed about 100 miles this year.
I sent the ECU off to Iceland and there was nothing wrong with it. Fitted it back in my car and the throttle worked fine. I traced the issue to a broken solder joint on my ecu harness.
I've got a problem with my aux belts stripping, have broken 4 in a row. They all fail the same, ribs come off rather than totally snapping. I did 1000 miles on the first belt before it broke and the others have broken within a few miles of being fitted. I need to work out what's causing it.
I've got a problem with my aux belts stripping, have broken 4 in a row. They all fail the same, ribs come off rather than totally snapping. I did 1000 miles on the first belt before it broke and the others have broken within a few miles of being fitted. I need to work out what's causing it.
Escy said:
I sent the ECU off to Iceland and there was nothing wrong with it. Fitted it back in my car and the throttle worked fine. I traced the issue to a broken solder joint on my ecu harness.
I've got a problem with my aux belts stripping, have broken 4 in a row. They all fail the same, ribs come off rather than totally snapping. I did 1000 miles on the first belt before it broke and the others have broken within a few miles of being fitted. I need to work out what's causing it.
I had this on a Senator 24V - turned out that I think the alternator had been fitted with the spacers in the wrong places and effectively it was a groove out compared to the other pulleys - trashed 3 belts in exactly the same way till I started tearing it all apart to try and work out why.I've got a problem with my aux belts stripping, have broken 4 in a row. They all fail the same, ribs come off rather than totally snapping. I did 1000 miles on the first belt before it broke and the others have broken within a few miles of being fitted. I need to work out what's causing it.
I also had a similar thing happen on a Lotus Carlton but that was operator error - I placed the belt wrongly on the water pump pulley - it was a groove out - but it didn't make it to the end of the road before it self destructed in a spectacular way and deposited itself on the road.
I'm running the Boxster power steering pump pulley on the Audi pump which has a different offset, I assumed this was the issue. I've run different size thickness washers each time i've broken a belt. I've done 1000 miles on the first belt with no issue, also had no problem on the last car with the same setup.
I replaced the tensioner today, I noticed the arm on the old tensioner would twist very slightly when it took up the belt slack, prehaps enough to be causing the issue. I had a belt which was slightly too long, with the new tensioner on it's now a perfect fit so the old tensioner was definately past it's best. I'll need to drive it to find out. If it's not that, i'll buy a standard 2.7t original power steering pump pulley.
I replaced the tensioner today, I noticed the arm on the old tensioner would twist very slightly when it took up the belt slack, prehaps enough to be causing the issue. I had a belt which was slightly too long, with the new tensioner on it's now a perfect fit so the old tensioner was definately past it's best. I'll need to drive it to find out. If it's not that, i'll buy a standard 2.7t original power steering pump pulley.
Nunga said:
Late to the last few months of updates but the charge cooler tank install is excellent.
Thank you, hopefully it all works properly this time.Escy said:
This might be useful to other Boxster or 911 owners. It's common for the alloy shoulders on the wheel bolts to disintegrate. The ones on the front of mine were bad. A set of Cayenne wheel bolts is a decent upgrade, they are 7mm longer and have steel shoulders, as they are OEM you get a decent locking wheel nut.
This is a good reminder as mine are shot. I've stopped using lockers on some of my cars. I just need to find the 911 locker key then I'll have a swap round. So the steel collars must be fine against the alloys or we would see cayenne wheels falling off. Did you buy these new or source them used?Gassing Station | Readers' Cars | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff