Phoenix from the flames - Porsche Boxster with an Audi 2.7T
Discussion
I did what is hopefully the final bit of wiring. I'd run out of spare sensor inputs on my ECU and I wanted to add oil pressure and oil temperature. The ECU has CANbus so I could add them that way, a bit of searching came up with this, Analog X, a 4 channel analog to CAN interface.
After wiring that up I added the sensors to the blue sandwich plate. You can see my air filter, i've got one each side but I'm not happy with the size of them or the location. They are low where they could pick up water, it doesn't look it in the photo but they are level with the undertray. I think they'll be a restriction power wise also. I can't think of much better solution.
I needed to add wheel speed to the ECU as it's used for various functions, traction control being the main one. Luckily the wheel sensors are on CANbus on my car so I logged CANbus traffic with the ECU, spin the wheel and see what channel it's on.
I took it for a drive to work on Friday, the revisions to the charge cooler system haven't achieved much. The pump runs constantly and in slow moving traffic there isn't much airflow through the radiator at the front so the system heats up. I'm controlling the pump from the ECU so i'm only going to get it to run when i'm above a certain speed and/or over a certain boost level. It's a bit of a band aid, it really needs more radiator real estate upfront and fans on them. I think with the charge cooler heat exchangers being mounted in the engine bay it might all be a bit of a lost cause, it's so hot that they'll heat soak instantly. On the old blue Boxster with the charge cooler mounted in the boot, it would be cold when you touched it.
After wiring that up I added the sensors to the blue sandwich plate. You can see my air filter, i've got one each side but I'm not happy with the size of them or the location. They are low where they could pick up water, it doesn't look it in the photo but they are level with the undertray. I think they'll be a restriction power wise also. I can't think of much better solution.
I needed to add wheel speed to the ECU as it's used for various functions, traction control being the main one. Luckily the wheel sensors are on CANbus on my car so I logged CANbus traffic with the ECU, spin the wheel and see what channel it's on.
I took it for a drive to work on Friday, the revisions to the charge cooler system haven't achieved much. The pump runs constantly and in slow moving traffic there isn't much airflow through the radiator at the front so the system heats up. I'm controlling the pump from the ECU so i'm only going to get it to run when i'm above a certain speed and/or over a certain boost level. It's a bit of a band aid, it really needs more radiator real estate upfront and fans on them. I think with the charge cooler heat exchangers being mounted in the engine bay it might all be a bit of a lost cause, it's so hot that they'll heat soak instantly. On the old blue Boxster with the charge cooler mounted in the boot, it would be cold when you touched it.
Edited by Escy on Monday 16th September 01:52
I had a rather embarrassing breakdown last weekend. The car had been starting to play up, I was out with my mate driving it and I was on the laptop trying to tune it, it was getting jerky and not running that well, changes I was making weren't having an affect. The next day I went to take it out to get some fuel, started it up, running fine, I got half way off my drive and the engine cut out and wouldn't restart. I basically had a breakdown outside the house, if I could chose anywhere, that would be where. I pulled the plugs and they were bone dry, I ran an output test on the ECU and the fuel pump ran so that was fine. I'd basically just completely run out of fuel. The reason it had been running poorly is because since i've changed the fuel pump it's sitting in the factory swirl pot but it's no longer perfectly sealed so when the fuel is low, the tank isn't baffled and it surges. The reason I let it completely run out of fuel was down to how the Boxster gauge works, due to the tank being a funny shape the level for between full and 1/4 tank comes from the level sender in the tank, the last 1/4 is calculated by the factory ECU which I no longer have so my gauge goes to 1/4 and stays there and it's been a while since i've been using it and I forgot.
I've decided i'm going to take it to a tuner for mapping, I did want to try it myself but I find it stressful, plus i've not got much spare time and I just want it done now. I popped over to Indigo GT which is just around the corner from me. They've got a dyno, the operator spent some time looking through the ECU software and he's happy to tune it so that's where i'll go. Before I go, I need to get the charge cooler system working correctly and fit larger air filters.
I've decided i'm going to take it to a tuner for mapping, I did want to try it myself but I find it stressful, plus i've not got much spare time and I just want it done now. I popped over to Indigo GT which is just around the corner from me. They've got a dyno, the operator spent some time looking through the ECU software and he's happy to tune it so that's where i'll go. Before I go, I need to get the charge cooler system working correctly and fit larger air filters.
Escy said:
I had a rather embarrassing breakdown last weekend. The car had been starting to play up, I was out with my mate driving it and I was on the laptop trying to tune it, it was getting jerky and not running that well, changes I was making weren't having an affect. The next day I went to take it out to get some fuel, started it up, running fine, I got half way off my drive and the engine cut out and wouldn't restart. I basically had a breakdown outside the house, if I could chose anywhere, that would be where. I pulled the plugs and they were bone dry, I ran an output test on the ECU and the fuel pump ran so that was fine. I'd basically just completely run out of fuel. The reason it had been running poorly is because since i've changed the fuel pump it's sitting in the factory swirl pot but it's no longer perfectly sealed so when the fuel is low, the tank isn't baffled and it surges. The reason I let it completely run out of fuel was down to how the Boxster gauge works, due to the tank being a funny shape the level for between full and 1/4 tank comes from the level sender in the tank, the last 1/4 is calculated by the factory ECU which I no longer have so my gauge goes to 1/4 and stays there and it's been a while since i've been using it and I forgot.
I've decided i'm going to take it to a tuner for mapping, I did want to try it myself but I find it stressful, plus i've not got much spare time and I just want it done now. I popped over to Indigo GT which is just around the corner from me. They've got a dyno, the operator spent some time looking through the ECU software and he's happy to tune it so that's where i'll go. Before I go, I need to get the charge cooler system working correctly and fit larger air filters.
I've got a mate who megasquirted a Monza 3.0 12V with a fast road set up - big valve head, calibra turbo injectors, coil pack rather than swing distributor, Maff unit and a gold top manifold (larger throttle body) - he tried for ages to road tune it with very limited success - I said to him several times the money he saved in "set up" costs were disappearing out of it's exhaust pipe - it stank of fuel every time I followed it and on every journey we did he had to fill up twice as often as me (I was running triple sidedrafts which are basically buckets with holes in them I've decided i'm going to take it to a tuner for mapping, I did want to try it myself but I find it stressful, plus i've not got much spare time and I just want it done now. I popped over to Indigo GT which is just around the corner from me. They've got a dyno, the operator spent some time looking through the ECU software and he's happy to tune it so that's where i'll go. Before I go, I need to get the charge cooler system working correctly and fit larger air filters.
)You are making the right choice for your sanity and wallet IMO
I've not really spent much time attempting to tune it, it's taken loads of time just setting up the basics on the ECU, things like Meth control, all the canbus stuff, Cal pot switch, fan control, VVT, fuel vapour purge, boost, etc. It's quite a steep learning curve. I want to try and make sure when I get to a dyno it's all performing like it should do.
When it comes to the tuning, I bought a road tuning course from HP Academy, it's good, I watch it and think I know what to do. Then I get a mate to drive it and it all gets a bit stressful and it all goes out of the window. It's hard to navigate through the cells accurately (probably put too many cells in my VE table which makes it harder to stay in them), you've got to drive with one foot on the brake to load the engine and so anyone behind thinks you're slowing down and there always seems to be someone behind. Then when it comes to the ignition table, without a dyno it's basically guess work. Throw in setting up the knock sensors by inducing knock and the extra complication of Meth injection, plus all the tip in stuff and it's all a bit overwhelming. Like you say, I'd also go through loads of fuel doing it all.
The good thing is, I'll be sitting in the car alongside Anthony who's the mapper as I know the setup and the software. That should give me a good opportunity to watch and learn how it's done. That experience might end up being worth the mapping cost alone.
When it comes to the tuning, I bought a road tuning course from HP Academy, it's good, I watch it and think I know what to do. Then I get a mate to drive it and it all gets a bit stressful and it all goes out of the window. It's hard to navigate through the cells accurately (probably put too many cells in my VE table which makes it harder to stay in them), you've got to drive with one foot on the brake to load the engine and so anyone behind thinks you're slowing down and there always seems to be someone behind. Then when it comes to the ignition table, without a dyno it's basically guess work. Throw in setting up the knock sensors by inducing knock and the extra complication of Meth injection, plus all the tip in stuff and it's all a bit overwhelming. Like you say, I'd also go through loads of fuel doing it all.
The good thing is, I'll be sitting in the car alongside Anthony who's the mapper as I know the setup and the software. That should give me a good opportunity to watch and learn how it's done. That experience might end up being worth the mapping cost alone.
I've finally had a chance to work on the Boxster. Before I can get it tuned I need the charge cooler system to function properly so i'm going to upgrade the front radiator. I found an aluminium charge cooler radiator on ebay which was similar dimensions to the radiator I was using but much thicker, it's dual pass so the water should spend more time in the radiator. It's got a brass drain on it, i'm going to fit the radiator with this on the top so I can use it as a bleed point (trapped air might be the biggest issue with the system).
This is what it looks like with the original radiator, it's all pretty tight.
Radiator sitting roughly in place, it's surprisingly heavy, feels like it's made of lead rather than aluminium. I'll have to make some strong brackets for it. Due to it's thickness it's going to interfere with the ducts for the radiators on the side so i'll need to modify those.
This is what it looks like with the original radiator, it's all pretty tight.
Radiator sitting roughly in place, it's surprisingly heavy, feels like it's made of lead rather than aluminium. I'll have to make some strong brackets for it. Due to it's thickness it's going to interfere with the ducts for the radiators on the side so i'll need to modify those.
Edited by Escy on Tuesday 29th October 22:07
I've finished up fitting the new charge cooler radiator. It took a while to do it, the first brackets I made had the radiator sitting like it was in the pictures above but the bumper was nowhere near fitting. It took some head scratching, I did think it wasn't going to fit at all at that point so i'm really happy with how it ended up. The ducts for the side radiators required trimming (one on the passenger side also has a coolant hose poking through it).
There is a black plastic panel above the radiator to channel the air through it but the picture makes it look a bit like the wood bellow. I've got a 90 degree hose joiner that came from an L322 Range Rover 4.2 Supercharged. These are handy as they have a bleed screw in them. On the other side I had to remove the brass fitting the radiator came with and fit a grub screw as I didn't have space. Both were very useful when it came to bleeding the air out.
Some strategically placed door seal added to the bottom of the bumper to stop air passing underneath the radiator. The holes in the bottom of the bumper were already there from the factory. It all lines up nicely.
Bumper back on (not the best photos)
There is a black plastic panel above the radiator to channel the air through it but the picture makes it look a bit like the wood bellow. I've got a 90 degree hose joiner that came from an L322 Range Rover 4.2 Supercharged. These are handy as they have a bleed screw in them. On the other side I had to remove the brass fitting the radiator came with and fit a grub screw as I didn't have space. Both were very useful when it came to bleeding the air out.
Some strategically placed door seal added to the bottom of the bumper to stop air passing underneath the radiator. The holes in the bottom of the bumper were already there from the factory. It all lines up nicely.
Bumper back on (not the best photos)
I had a nightmare trying to get the car started, the Odyssey race battery had gone flat and wouldn't even take a jump start. Had to get it running off another battery and then connect the terminals. Then I took it out for a drive to test the charge cooler, this didn't go well, got about a couple of miles from my home, pulled out of a junction, heard a crack from the back end, lost drive and pulled over in a bus stop. Took a photo of the radiator while I was there. The laquer peel on it is shocking. Also those headlights are xenons so should be blue not yellow, need to polish the lenses.
This is what I saw when I had a look. Driveshaft has come out of the gearbox flange. Not sure on the cause, fatigued bolts maybe? I've got a plated LSD so I should have been able to drive this with only one driveshaft, that's a concern...
As I was close to my home I asked a mate to come and tow me back. This proved to be a mistake. I asked him to take it slowly, I saw 50mph at one point! Had a quick look under it and it's carnage, the clutch line has got tangled up in it. Wish I'd called my breakdown for a recovery now.
This is what I saw when I had a look. Driveshaft has come out of the gearbox flange. Not sure on the cause, fatigued bolts maybe? I've got a plated LSD so I should have been able to drive this with only one driveshaft, that's a concern...
As I was close to my home I asked a mate to come and tow me back. This proved to be a mistake. I asked him to take it slowly, I saw 50mph at one point! Had a quick look under it and it's carnage, the clutch line has got tangled up in it. Wish I'd called my breakdown for a recovery now.
Noo, sorry to hear!
Your front radiator layout looks good and neat, my only thought might be a front lower splitter or front skirt might force more air through the rads?
Randomly I recommend a ctek charger, I have seen some a very flat battery be recovered by one.
Fingers crossed your drveshaft clutch issue is quick and easy to fix!
Your front radiator layout looks good and neat, my only thought might be a front lower splitter or front skirt might force more air through the rads?
Randomly I recommend a ctek charger, I have seen some a very flat battery be recovered by one.
Fingers crossed your drveshaft clutch issue is quick and easy to fix!
I think I need to invest in a ctek charger. Would like to add a front lip or change the bumper in the future, that said i'm quite happy that it looks pretty much standard (can a Porsche ever be a sleeper?).
I pulled it apart this evening. There are a few lessons to be learnt. Firstly, the bolts that hold the driveshaft to the gearbox output flange that didn't disappear look fine, not damaged at all. That leaves me thinking I must have not torqued them up and they have just backed out over time. There was no rattles or anything to warn me this was going to happen so it's a bit of an odd one. The other lesson is, not to be so hasty to recover the car, I didn't stop to think, just called a mate as soon as I saw it. I could have repaired it at the side of the road probably. At that point the only thing broken was the heat shield that was above the driveshaft. By dragging it back home the list now is new driveshaft, new gearbox output flange, new clutch line, new gearbox speed sensor and repair the downpipe. To get the down pipe off I need to remove the gearbox mounts and lower the box down so that's a load of extra hassle.
I pulled it apart this evening. There are a few lessons to be learnt. Firstly, the bolts that hold the driveshaft to the gearbox output flange that didn't disappear look fine, not damaged at all. That leaves me thinking I must have not torqued them up and they have just backed out over time. There was no rattles or anything to warn me this was going to happen so it's a bit of an odd one. The other lesson is, not to be so hasty to recover the car, I didn't stop to think, just called a mate as soon as I saw it. I could have repaired it at the side of the road probably. At that point the only thing broken was the heat shield that was above the driveshaft. By dragging it back home the list now is new driveshaft, new gearbox output flange, new clutch line, new gearbox speed sensor and repair the downpipe. To get the down pipe off I need to remove the gearbox mounts and lower the box down so that's a load of extra hassle.
Shame about the extra damage but at least the gearbox didn’t get a chunk removed. Regarding the bolts, do they have the little joining tabs between pairs of bolts like a lot of VAG cars?
I have a long key for the VW splined bolts that allows you to torque the up or break them free from in the wheel arch.
Might be worth a try?
Good luck and looking forward to seeing it resolved.
I have a long key for the VW splined bolts that allows you to torque the up or break them free from in the wheel arch.
Might be worth a try?
Good luck and looking forward to seeing it resolved.
I had a similar thing happen on a old Fiat X1/9 many years ago. No warning there either, lost two bolts and as far as I know they had never been previously undone. Luckily no damage.
Never understood the point of the joining tabs?
Hope you get it all sorted soon.
I do admire your determination and perseverance, good on yer.
Never understood the point of the joining tabs?
Hope you get it all sorted soon.
I do admire your determination and perseverance, good on yer.
Thanks. I would assume the tabs are there to spread the clamping force of the bolt move evenly as the heads need to be quite small to get past the CV boot.
I've finally sorted it out, it took me a while as i've been busy. I had slight play in the rear wheel bearing (was mentioned when I took it for an MOT) so did that while it was all apart.
I ordered a load of parts from Rob at 9apart. He made me aware there were 2 different sizes of flanges available, mine took M8 bolts, they did some that are M10. So I bought a pair of those and the thicker driveshafts to match. Hopefully an upgrade in terms of strength. Also got a new clutch line. Some pictures showing a comparison of the parts.
I've finally sorted it out, it took me a while as i've been busy. I had slight play in the rear wheel bearing (was mentioned when I took it for an MOT) so did that while it was all apart.
I ordered a load of parts from Rob at 9apart. He made me aware there were 2 different sizes of flanges available, mine took M8 bolts, they did some that are M10. So I bought a pair of those and the thicker driveshafts to match. Hopefully an upgrade in terms of strength. Also got a new clutch line. Some pictures showing a comparison of the parts.
I'm sure I read somewhere that the bolts were single use and should be replaced each time and some people had issues with driveshafts working loose when they had work done necessitating a drive shaft removal but had not replacing the bolts.
I believe these are the torque figures for them.
M8 bolt: 40 Nm
M10 bolt: 65 Nm
Note also that the hub bolt on some is also single use and should be replaced, different torque settings depending on which bolt/model though!
I believe these are the torque figures for them.
M8 bolt: 40 Nm
M10 bolt: 65 Nm
Note also that the hub bolt on some is also single use and should be replaced, different torque settings depending on which bolt/model though!
Gassing Station | Readers' Cars | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff