Accord Type-R - K-Swap & Supercharger Project
Discussion
Been an avid reader on here for years but I thought I'd start a new profile and a project thread, just in case it interested anyone on these cars.
The fantastic full strip thread on another Accord on here is great to see that they're still loved.
I bought this as a daily about 10 years ago, put about 60k miles on it and it even got me to the south of France and back a few times. Never missed a beat and I couldn't ever bring myself to part with it.
So one track session in 2013 and I was hooked on it's ability, surprised me that it had such great balance and corner speed considering it's a four door family saloon.
A few photos:-
The fantastic full strip thread on another Accord on here is great to see that they're still loved.
I bought this as a daily about 10 years ago, put about 60k miles on it and it even got me to the south of France and back a few times. Never missed a beat and I couldn't ever bring myself to part with it.
So one track session in 2013 and I was hooked on it's ability, surprised me that it had such great balance and corner speed considering it's a four door family saloon.
A few photos:-
A quick spec list as the car stands at the moment:-
Engine
Spooner restorations cam cover
Magencor KV85 Leads
BYC Baffled Sump Plate
Non-A/C Drive Belt & A/C Compressor Delete
VTEC Direct 4-2-1 Manifold
Solid Fabs Decat Pipe
Infinity Exhausts Custom Decat
XTD 4.5kg Flywheel
XTD Stage 3 Clutch Kit (6 Puk)
H23 Manual Tensioner Conversion
Balance Belt Delete
VTEC Direct Camshaft End Oil Seal
AEM Short Ram Intake
VTEC Direct Solid Front Engine Mount
New OEM Oxygen Sensors
New OEM Radiator
Cylinder Head Polish/Refresh
Gearbox
Mfactory 4.64 Final Drive
Synchrotech Carbon Synchro Kit
Synchrotech Rebuild Kit
OEM Gear Ratios
OEM LSD
Body
Full Plastics4Performance Perspex Kit
Custom Modified Headlight For Engine CAI
Aerial Delete
Door Skins Removed
Window Regulators Deleted
Fibreworx Canards
Fibreworx Front Splitter (still to fit)
Fibreworx Rear Spoiler with Inbuilt Gurney (still to fit)
Interior
JJC Seat Mounts
Cobra Sebring Pro Fit
Cobra Imola Pro
OMP 90mm Dish Wheel
Takata 4 Point Harnesses
Digital Race Electronics Shift Light Unit
Brakes
MTEC C-Hook C43 AMG Front Discs
Ferodo DS2500 Front Pads
Wilwood Superlite 4 Pot Calipers
80mm Brake Ducting
HEL Braided Hoses
OEM Rear Calipers
Mintex Rear Discs and Pads
Toyracer Brake Stopper
Chassis
New Honda Wheel Bearings
New Honda Front Lower Ball Joints
Hardrace Front Camber Wishbones
Hardrace Rear Camber Arms
Hardrace Rear Toe Arms x4
All New OEM Honda Bolts/Nuts
17" Rota Blitz painted in Porsche GT White Gold - 2 Sets
Nankang NS2R 120 Compound
Blox Wheel Nuts
MeisterR Zeta-S Coilovers
Custom PAS Cooler (from Porsche Cayenne)
Engine
Spooner restorations cam cover
Magencor KV85 Leads
BYC Baffled Sump Plate
Non-A/C Drive Belt & A/C Compressor Delete
VTEC Direct 4-2-1 Manifold
Solid Fabs Decat Pipe
Infinity Exhausts Custom Decat
XTD 4.5kg Flywheel
XTD Stage 3 Clutch Kit (6 Puk)
H23 Manual Tensioner Conversion
Balance Belt Delete
VTEC Direct Camshaft End Oil Seal
AEM Short Ram Intake
VTEC Direct Solid Front Engine Mount
New OEM Oxygen Sensors
New OEM Radiator
Cylinder Head Polish/Refresh
Gearbox
Mfactory 4.64 Final Drive
Synchrotech Carbon Synchro Kit
Synchrotech Rebuild Kit
OEM Gear Ratios
OEM LSD
Body
Full Plastics4Performance Perspex Kit
Custom Modified Headlight For Engine CAI
Aerial Delete
Door Skins Removed
Window Regulators Deleted
Fibreworx Canards
Fibreworx Front Splitter (still to fit)
Fibreworx Rear Spoiler with Inbuilt Gurney (still to fit)
Interior
JJC Seat Mounts
Cobra Sebring Pro Fit
Cobra Imola Pro
OMP 90mm Dish Wheel
Takata 4 Point Harnesses
Digital Race Electronics Shift Light Unit
Brakes
MTEC C-Hook C43 AMG Front Discs
Ferodo DS2500 Front Pads
Wilwood Superlite 4 Pot Calipers
80mm Brake Ducting
HEL Braided Hoses
OEM Rear Calipers
Mintex Rear Discs and Pads
Toyracer Brake Stopper
Chassis
New Honda Wheel Bearings
New Honda Front Lower Ball Joints
Hardrace Front Camber Wishbones
Hardrace Rear Camber Arms
Hardrace Rear Toe Arms x4
All New OEM Honda Bolts/Nuts
17" Rota Blitz painted in Porsche GT White Gold - 2 Sets
Nankang NS2R 120 Compound
Blox Wheel Nuts
MeisterR Zeta-S Coilovers
Custom PAS Cooler (from Porsche Cayenne)
Loads of weight saved from cutting all door skins out and adding a full perspex kit from Plastics4Performance.
New rear spoiler with in built gurney ready for paint. Toying with the idea of when I strip the dash out to remove the heater box, to refit with a flocked 997 dash, but not fully decided on that yet.
Rota Blitz wheels in Porsche White Gold and Wilwood 4 pots. Initially fitted with grooved discs but now using C-Hook.
Standard PAS cooler was not sufficent enough, my sessions ended with my fluid boiling over. So fitted a Cayenne item.
Rear suspension will be overhauled over the winter with Hardrace items and genuine Honda fixings.
And about 3 hours armed with a Dremel and I had a decent inlet for the AEM intake.
New rear spoiler with in built gurney ready for paint. Toying with the idea of when I strip the dash out to remove the heater box, to refit with a flocked 997 dash, but not fully decided on that yet.
Rota Blitz wheels in Porsche White Gold and Wilwood 4 pots. Initially fitted with grooved discs but now using C-Hook.
Standard PAS cooler was not sufficent enough, my sessions ended with my fluid boiling over. So fitted a Cayenne item.
Rear suspension will be overhauled over the winter with Hardrace items and genuine Honda fixings.
And about 3 hours armed with a Dremel and I had a decent inlet for the AEM intake.
So I decided I wanted to step it up and try competing in it, I have been using a CRX cup car for years but I fancy a change. I thought since I'd piled so much into this it would be silly not to give it a go in a Castle Combe GT's or a few rounds in the VTEC Challenge.
After pricing up a N/A H22 build for approx 260-280bhp, allthough I'd end up with a strong engine I felt I needed slightly more to be competitive, considering I'm at a weight disadavtnage against a CRX or Civic for example.
So I decided to go down the K-Swap and Supercharger route. I should safely push 400bhp which will be more than enough.
So in came the donor car.
DC5 shifter unit.
Hondata V-Pro v4 ECU.
K-Swap Manifold.
And awaiting a few supporting bits and pieces.
I've gone for the TTS Supersport Kit, which comprises the following, delivery due mid-January.
ROTREX C30-94 SUPERCHARGER ROTREX OIL KIT
1 LTR OF ROTREX OIL
SUPERCHARGER OIL COOLER
OIL COOLER MOUNTING BRACKETS
3 PIECE BILLET CNC BRACKET SET
7 RIB DRIVE BELT
CUSTOM COLD AIR INTAKE PIPE AND FILTER
ALL ALUMINIUM BOOST PIPES
ALL SILICON HOSES AND CLIPS
Deatsch Werks DEATSCH WERKS INJECTORS, ADAPTER PLUGS
RACE SPEC FRONT MOUNTED INTERCOOLER
RACE SPEC RADIATOR
UPRATED 340 LTR FUEL PUMP
4 BAR MAP SENSOR
BILLET BLOW OFF VALVE
FULL NUT AND BOLT FITTING KIT
After pricing up a N/A H22 build for approx 260-280bhp, allthough I'd end up with a strong engine I felt I needed slightly more to be competitive, considering I'm at a weight disadavtnage against a CRX or Civic for example.
So I decided to go down the K-Swap and Supercharger route. I should safely push 400bhp which will be more than enough.
So in came the donor car.
DC5 shifter unit.
Hondata V-Pro v4 ECU.
K-Swap Manifold.
And awaiting a few supporting bits and pieces.
I've gone for the TTS Supersport Kit, which comprises the following, delivery due mid-January.
ROTREX C30-94 SUPERCHARGER ROTREX OIL KIT
1 LTR OF ROTREX OIL
SUPERCHARGER OIL COOLER
OIL COOLER MOUNTING BRACKETS
3 PIECE BILLET CNC BRACKET SET
7 RIB DRIVE BELT
CUSTOM COLD AIR INTAKE PIPE AND FILTER
ALL ALUMINIUM BOOST PIPES
ALL SILICON HOSES AND CLIPS
Deatsch Werks DEATSCH WERKS INJECTORS, ADAPTER PLUGS
RACE SPEC FRONT MOUNTED INTERCOOLER
RACE SPEC RADIATOR
UPRATED 340 LTR FUEL PUMP
4 BAR MAP SENSOR
BILLET BLOW OFF VALVE
FULL NUT AND BOLT FITTING KIT
Hi mate, great project and nice to see the K motor swapped into more machinery!
I have done a Supercharged K Swap a few years back and its probably the cheapest K-Swap you can do! I have no experience with the Accord but I have heard that there is quite a lot of similarity between them and the 5th Gen Prelude. If so then you should be able to use the stock Accord axles and shifter and shifter cables.
On the 5th Gen Prelude you simply needed the longer K24 half shaft and you can fit the LH drive shaft to the right side and vice versa.
The original 5th gen shifter cables fitted perfectly with a modified K-Tuned shifter bracket, you simply needed to make a flat plate to move one of the outer cable bracket locations about 25-50mm further back away from the shifter arm on the gearbox. Another benefit is that when the OEM shifter/cables are hooked up to the K-Box it feels like you have a short shift kit fitted as the K boxes need less cable movement to change gear.
I had to use a K-Tuned ramhorn header to allow me to get the engine far enough back to get the axle line straight, and that still meant I had to cut the lower sub frame quite a bit for clearance for both the header and gearbox.
You should be able to utilise the OEM radiator as well.
Good luck with the build and keep us updated.
Edit: Just saw your exhaust manifold, I highly doubt you'll get that to fit!
I have done a Supercharged K Swap a few years back and its probably the cheapest K-Swap you can do! I have no experience with the Accord but I have heard that there is quite a lot of similarity between them and the 5th Gen Prelude. If so then you should be able to use the stock Accord axles and shifter and shifter cables.
On the 5th Gen Prelude you simply needed the longer K24 half shaft and you can fit the LH drive shaft to the right side and vice versa.
The original 5th gen shifter cables fitted perfectly with a modified K-Tuned shifter bracket, you simply needed to make a flat plate to move one of the outer cable bracket locations about 25-50mm further back away from the shifter arm on the gearbox. Another benefit is that when the OEM shifter/cables are hooked up to the K-Box it feels like you have a short shift kit fitted as the K boxes need less cable movement to change gear.
I had to use a K-Tuned ramhorn header to allow me to get the engine far enough back to get the axle line straight, and that still meant I had to cut the lower sub frame quite a bit for clearance for both the header and gearbox.
You should be able to utilise the OEM radiator as well.
Good luck with the build and keep us updated.
Edit: Just saw your exhaust manifold, I highly doubt you'll get that to fit!
Edited by Mudgey on Monday 11th December 12:30
Thanks for all the comments.
Thanks Mudgey for that invaluable info. I had purchased that manifold as a starting point to aid me with engine placement. I had never seen a ram horn manifold before and didn't even cross my mind. Upon a quick scout across fleabay I've sourced a fair few options. So thanks again. I'll have both ready and then flog whichever I don't use.
With regards to the shafts, I had heard someone had K swapped a prelude and as you say, it's an identical front end to the CH1. So a K24 shaft was used where sorry? I assume they're different to K20?
The shafts are the thing that I predicted would cause me some thinking.
Thanks Mudgey for that invaluable info. I had purchased that manifold as a starting point to aid me with engine placement. I had never seen a ram horn manifold before and didn't even cross my mind. Upon a quick scout across fleabay I've sourced a fair few options. So thanks again. I'll have both ready and then flog whichever I don't use.
With regards to the shafts, I had heard someone had K swapped a prelude and as you say, it's an identical front end to the CH1. So a K24 shaft was used where sorry? I assume they're different to K20?
The shafts are the thing that I predicted would cause me some thinking.
Edited by TrackNutz on Monday 11th December 13:41
Yea no worries, more than happy to give advise as it'll help save some time messing about with stuff.
The K24 half shaft (or intermediate shaft) is longer and it slots into the gearbox and bolts to the engine, the Prelude shafts worked but one side wasn't long enough, luckily Honda's K24 shaft was just the right length to make up the shortfall.
I think 1320 have copied the K-Tuned ram horn header so I think a few copies can be had cheaper than I what I paid for mine, saying that the k-tuned header was very nice quality and was a shame to have hidden away at the back of the engine bay!
When I designed my engine mounts I had 5 sets fabricated and I think I have one set left on the shelf, they are designed to accept OEM Prelude engine mount rubbers so they feel stock with regards to vibrations into the cabin, however you can also fit off the shelf silicone inserts should you wish to reduce engine movement. Give me a shout if they are of interest.
The K24 half shaft (or intermediate shaft) is longer and it slots into the gearbox and bolts to the engine, the Prelude shafts worked but one side wasn't long enough, luckily Honda's K24 shaft was just the right length to make up the shortfall.
I think 1320 have copied the K-Tuned ram horn header so I think a few copies can be had cheaper than I what I paid for mine, saying that the k-tuned header was very nice quality and was a shame to have hidden away at the back of the engine bay!
When I designed my engine mounts I had 5 sets fabricated and I think I have one set left on the shelf, they are designed to accept OEM Prelude engine mount rubbers so they feel stock with regards to vibrations into the cabin, however you can also fit off the shelf silicone inserts should you wish to reduce engine movement. Give me a shout if they are of interest.
Yes they may be of very good use. I'll give you a shout when I have it slotted in and I can see what I'm playing with.
Yes you're right with regards to 1320, I've just bought their ram horn manifold, worked out at £300 including postage and customs. It will get me in and then at a later date if it isn't up to the job I'll get Maniflow or similar to make me something. Plus I'm glad I'm not using the 4-1 if I'm honest, I always wanted to keep it 4-2-1.
Yes you're right with regards to 1320, I've just bought their ram horn manifold, worked out at £300 including postage and customs. It will get me in and then at a later date if it isn't up to the job I'll get Maniflow or similar to make me something. Plus I'm glad I'm not using the 4-1 if I'm honest, I always wanted to keep it 4-2-1.
Bludy hell, that's half the price I paid for mine, however they had literally just come out from K-Tuned so were full price back then!
I have a 1320 4-2-1 header to go onto my DC5 and paid a similar price to yourself, a bargain I reckon and the quality looks fine for the money. I weighed both the OEM and 1320 header and I've saved about 6kg in weight from that one piece alone.
So your going Rotrex for forced induction? What made you decide that route over say Turbo or Roots/Screw compressors?
I have a 1320 4-2-1 header to go onto my DC5 and paid a similar price to yourself, a bargain I reckon and the quality looks fine for the money. I weighed both the OEM and 1320 header and I've saved about 6kg in weight from that one piece alone.
So your going Rotrex for forced induction? What made you decide that route over say Turbo or Roots/Screw compressors?
Firstly I preferred the centrifugal over a screw in terms of losses, the Rotrex being more efficient in that sense with less torque loss. Plus I think (whilst I love supercharger whine) I'd get tired of the noise all day at the circuit.
Secondly I preferred the idea of an intercooled setup, I felt I could gain more power reliably on a stock bottom end compared to bolting a Jackson Racing Twin Screw direct to the head.
Thirdly, I wanted linear power delivery. I wanted to keep it feeling NA and I think it'll be quicker in wet conditions too with a Rotrex over a turbo setup.
I'll find out if I'm right or wrong soon I guess.
Secondly I preferred the idea of an intercooled setup, I felt I could gain more power reliably on a stock bottom end compared to bolting a Jackson Racing Twin Screw direct to the head.
Thirdly, I wanted linear power delivery. I wanted to keep it feeling NA and I think it'll be quicker in wet conditions too with a Rotrex over a turbo setup.
I'll find out if I'm right or wrong soon I guess.
TrackNutz said:
Thirdly, I wanted linear power delivery. I wanted to keep it feeling NA and I think it'll be quicker in wet conditions too with a Rotrex over a turbo setup.
I'll find out if I'm right or wrong soon I guess.
I think you'll be right (not that I've been on track) but my EP3 with 320bhp still feels NA, just with a large dose more torque and power I'll find out if I'm right or wrong soon I guess.
Who's going to map it for you?
I had mine done by a local firm, only because I live in the arse end of nowhere 
but they have done a good job, took a long time but they have been superb about it and getting it back in soon for a check over and tweak.
My thread is here https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
I’ve sourced all of my parts second hand where possible to save costs and fitted most stuff ourselves (my friend and I). I’m in it for less than a brand new Sport kit including napping, ECU and intercooler (I think!)
but they have done a good job, took a long time but they have been superb about it and getting it back in soon for a check over and tweak. My thread is here https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
I’ve sourced all of my parts second hand where possible to save costs and fitted most stuff ourselves (my friend and I). I’m in it for less than a brand new Sport kit including napping, ECU and intercooler (I think!)
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