Just starting out with an E46 330ci budget track car build
Discussion
Andrew-b90y3 said:
Thank you for your informative reply Humour as always. I’m just trying to get my head around this diff question I’ve posed!
I’ve done some research today and I can confirm that you’re correct and my car currently has a 3.45 ratio diff fitted (764) ending part number. So this diff is a long ratio diff and would give a top speed of 160mph + this prolonging the acceleration through all gears, which in a 2.0 car with 150bhp is quite pointless really.
So further research and reading and taking on board what you have said means that I need to acquire a 2.93 ratio diff from a non lsd 328i? (I won’t be able to afford an lsd unfortunately) Which will give me a much lower theoretical top speed but greater acceleration which will suit my car much more than the longer ratio diff currently fitted?
In your knowledge would the 328 diff be a straight swap into my 320?
Cheers
Andy
You've got it the wrong way around with the diff ratios! I’ve done some research today and I can confirm that you’re correct and my car currently has a 3.45 ratio diff fitted (764) ending part number. So this diff is a long ratio diff and would give a top speed of 160mph + this prolonging the acceleration through all gears, which in a 2.0 car with 150bhp is quite pointless really.
So further research and reading and taking on board what you have said means that I need to acquire a 2.93 ratio diff from a non lsd 328i? (I won’t be able to afford an lsd unfortunately) Which will give me a much lower theoretical top speed but greater acceleration which will suit my car much more than the longer ratio diff currently fitted?
In your knowledge would the 328 diff be a straight swap into my 320?
Cheers
Andy
The higher the number of the final drive in your diff (for example 4.1:1 as is mine), the shorter the overall gearing and thus lower top speed, but theoretically improved acceleration.
The lower the number of the final drive (for example 3.62:1, as was my old final drive), the longer the overall gearing and a higher top speed, but theoretically worse acceleration.
Going from experience, a diff with a shorter final drive is by far and away the best speed-relate modification you can make to an N/A car, as engine power gains just aren't cheaply found and, as has been mentioned, you will never get to a 250kph top speed on almost any track in a 2.0L N/A. The torque multiplication effect of a shorter final drive in a diff is hugely underrated! Luckily for you BMW have so many diff choices available and they almost all bolt up directly across a range of models so really, you're laughing!
Loved the thread and I really salute your commitment to keeping to a budget; while my E46 M3 has had a fair bit more spent on it and is yet to be a track car, you've inspired me to pull my finger out and finally do some track days next year.
The lower the number of the final drive (for example 3.62:1, as was my old final drive), the longer the overall gearing and a higher top speed, but theoretically worse acceleration.
Going from experience, a diff with a shorter final drive is by far and away the best speed-relate modification you can make to an N/A car, as engine power gains just aren't cheaply found and, as has been mentioned, you will never get to a 250kph top speed on almost any track in a 2.0L N/A. The torque multiplication effect of a shorter final drive in a diff is hugely underrated! Luckily for you BMW have so many diff choices available and they almost all bolt up directly across a range of models so really, you're laughing!
Loved the thread and I really salute your commitment to keeping to a budget; while my E46 M3 has had a fair bit more spent on it and is yet to be a track car, you've inspired me to pull my finger out and finally do some track days next year.
Fellow E36 track car owner here!!!
You'll need to think about cooling both the engine and the oil if you want to use the car in anything over 15c ambient, it was 10c in Bedford the other week and i was getting hot oil tapping from my 328i powered coupe.
I've got an oil cooler kit with thermo plate to go on.
I'd also consider binning off the £200 suspension, there may be some deals on some decent budget stuff available this weekend.
You'll need to think about cooling both the engine and the oil if you want to use the car in anything over 15c ambient, it was 10c in Bedford the other week and i was getting hot oil tapping from my 328i powered coupe.
I've got an oil cooler kit with thermo plate to go on.
I'd also consider binning off the £200 suspension, there may be some deals on some decent budget stuff available this weekend.
Ok so there’s been a rather big update with this..... I’m now the proud owner of an E46 330CI track car. I absolutely love the E36 but the chance to own the E46 came up and I couldn’t really say no, it cost just a touch over what I paid for the E36 and really is a lovely car.
The spec is as follows:
2004 E46 330CI Coupe
6 speed manual
234bhp
188,500 miles
Full electric leather
MV2’s
TV
Nav
Bluetooth
Computer
Grey
Phone cradle etc
This is still going to be a budget thread but the plans for the car have changed slightly. I’m going to be building it to a clubsport spec because of the extra power I can afford to leave the carpets and front door cards in etc as I don’t have to save anywhere near as much weight. I’m going to strip the back completely and may carpet it or may just leave it uncarpeted and have a go at painting it. Here’s some pictures of the old girl .....
The spec is as follows:
2004 E46 330CI Coupe
6 speed manual
234bhp
188,500 miles
Full electric leather
MV2’s
TV
Nav
Bluetooth
Computer
Grey
Phone cradle etc
This is still going to be a budget thread but the plans for the car have changed slightly. I’m going to be building it to a clubsport spec because of the extra power I can afford to leave the carpets and front door cards in etc as I don’t have to save anywhere near as much weight. I’m going to strip the back completely and may carpet it or may just leave it uncarpeted and have a go at painting it. Here’s some pictures of the old girl .....
As you can see it’s very very dirty. Some kind person has also walked on the roof and kicked off the shark fin aerial by the looks of things (I found this in the glovebox which was a result)!! I’ve spoken to the dent fella that we have at work and he reckons that he can make something of the roof so happy days, wheel arches are bubbling a bit but not bothered. The positives are that all the brakes are pretty much brand new, it runs like a dream and pulls extremely well, it feels so powerful compared to the E36 that when I get round to doing a track day in it it will definitely be an experience for me anyway.
I gave it a bit of a clean the other morning and it’s looking better already ....
Imminent things to do to her are both back tyres are on 2mm and the MOT is due this week so these arrived at work today,
People may laugh because these are Landsails but they have B ratings in both the wet and the dry and the MV2’s will be used to drive the car to and from track days and for the occasional use as wets so these will do just fine for me, only £62.50 each too. The rocker cover gasket is weeping slightly onto the exhaust manifold so that needs doing. Both number plate lights have failed and so I’ve ordered some led bulbs with holders from eBay. The crankcase breather valve is pretty much blocked solid so this needs to be changed along with new inlet manifold gasket etc.
Modifications will be:
Coilovers (JOM NJT extreme possibly)
Buckets (Corbeau clubsports I hope)
Braided hoses (already have the fronts)
Full polybush
Front camber plates
Rear camber arms
Geo (I can do this myself)
17” Team Dynamics Imolas (already have)
Nankang NS2R (already have)
Full service
Refurbished front calipers (already have)
Pagid RS29 Front pads (already have)
Potentially sort the rust in the future
Go and enjoy it!!
I’ll update as I go along! Thanks for reading folks!!
I gave it a bit of a clean the other morning and it’s looking better already ....
Imminent things to do to her are both back tyres are on 2mm and the MOT is due this week so these arrived at work today,
People may laugh because these are Landsails but they have B ratings in both the wet and the dry and the MV2’s will be used to drive the car to and from track days and for the occasional use as wets so these will do just fine for me, only £62.50 each too. The rocker cover gasket is weeping slightly onto the exhaust manifold so that needs doing. Both number plate lights have failed and so I’ve ordered some led bulbs with holders from eBay. The crankcase breather valve is pretty much blocked solid so this needs to be changed along with new inlet manifold gasket etc.
Modifications will be:
Coilovers (JOM NJT extreme possibly)
Buckets (Corbeau clubsports I hope)
Braided hoses (already have the fronts)
Full polybush
Front camber plates
Rear camber arms
Geo (I can do this myself)
17” Team Dynamics Imolas (already have)
Nankang NS2R (already have)
Full service
Refurbished front calipers (already have)
Pagid RS29 Front pads (already have)
Potentially sort the rust in the future
Go and enjoy it!!
I’ll update as I go along! Thanks for reading folks!!
I ran a pair of near new Landsails on my E90 in that same size, and they were not so good in the wet at Silverstone last year. By wet, lashing rain & standing water on a newly resurfaced track - so extreme test maybe.
I suggest re-bushing the gearlever & fit a new lever with a shorter throw - the world is your oyster, I went for the E92 x-drive shifter (they all fit). Some light reading here: https://www.bimmerforums.co.uk/forum/f2/2000-e46-3...
Also check it if still has the clutch delay valve fitted, and if so, remove it.
I suggest re-bushing the gearlever & fit a new lever with a shorter throw - the world is your oyster, I went for the E92 x-drive shifter (they all fit). Some light reading here: https://www.bimmerforums.co.uk/forum/f2/2000-e46-3...
Also check it if still has the clutch delay valve fitted, and if so, remove it.
Edited by BFleming on Wednesday 20th February 17:34
Andrew-b90y3 said:
Modifications will be:
Coilovers (JOM NJT extreme possibly)
Buckets (Corbeau clubsports I hope)
Braided hoses (already have the fronts)
Full polybush
Front camber plates
Rear camber arms
Geo (I can do this myself)
17” Team Dynamics Imolas (already have)
Nankang NS2R (already have)
Full service
Refurbished front calipers (already have)
Pagid RS29 Front pads (already have)
Potentially sort the rust in the future
Go and enjoy it!!
I’ll update as I go along! Thanks for reading folks!!
Suspension - BUY BETTER COILOVERS. JOM is utter cheap crud, do yourself a favour and get some basic BCs or HSDs. These are entry level at £700 ish.Coilovers (JOM NJT extreme possibly)
Buckets (Corbeau clubsports I hope)
Braided hoses (already have the fronts)
Full polybush
Front camber plates
Rear camber arms
Geo (I can do this myself)
17” Team Dynamics Imolas (already have)
Nankang NS2R (already have)
Full service
Refurbished front calipers (already have)
Pagid RS29 Front pads (already have)
Potentially sort the rust in the future
Go and enjoy it!!
I’ll update as I go along! Thanks for reading folks!!
Seats - Book at fitting session at GSM seating. Find a seat that fits you well.
Camber plates - fronts will come on good coilovers as above, rear camber, use lower arms and toe arms.
The rest makes sense, but again COOLING.
JB! said:
Andrew-b90y3 said:
Modifications will be:
Coilovers (JOM NJT extreme possibly)
Buckets (Corbeau clubsports I hope)
Braided hoses (already have the fronts)
Full polybush
Front camber plates
Rear camber arms
Geo (I can do this myself)
17” Team Dynamics Imolas (already have)
Nankang NS2R (already have)
Full service
Refurbished front calipers (already have)
Pagid RS29 Front pads (already have)
Potentially sort the rust in the future
Go and enjoy it!!
I’ll update as I go along! Thanks for reading folks!!
Suspension - BUY BETTER COILOVERS. JOM is utter cheap crud, do yourself a favour and get some basic BCs or HSDs. These are entry level at £700 ish.Coilovers (JOM NJT extreme possibly)
Buckets (Corbeau clubsports I hope)
Braided hoses (already have the fronts)
Full polybush
Front camber plates
Rear camber arms
Geo (I can do this myself)
17” Team Dynamics Imolas (already have)
Nankang NS2R (already have)
Full service
Refurbished front calipers (already have)
Pagid RS29 Front pads (already have)
Potentially sort the rust in the future
Go and enjoy it!!
I’ll update as I go along! Thanks for reading folks!!
Seats - Book at fitting session at GSM seating. Find a seat that fits you well.
Camber plates - fronts will come on good coilovers as above, rear camber, use lower arms and toe arms.
The rest makes sense, but again COOLING.
In regards to keeping oil temps in check, specifically retrofitting an oil cooler what are my options? Is everything that’s available aftermarket setups then? Would running a low temp thermostat and having the cooling fan on a switch be adequate to keep coolant temps in check?
S54 oil filter housing has take-off ports for an oil cooler, contact Hack Engineering for what you'll specifically want.
Your fan is viscous, so first step is a fresh thermostat and an alloy rad, then upgrade to slimline fan, but don't get a chinese fan as the viscous is better for airflow, you'll need a good quality one.
Your fan is viscous, so first step is a fresh thermostat and an alloy rad, then upgrade to slimline fan, but don't get a chinese fan as the viscous is better for airflow, you'll need a good quality one.
I managed to get a little bit of work done on the car yesterday morning ready for its MOT today. The main things was sorting the rear tyres as these weren’t in great shape at all ......
To the new ones fitted!!
I always like how wide the 255/35/18’s look on the back of these!! Another job that I needed to sort was both light covers were lost for the number plate lights on the boot grab strip. I priced up some OEM covers and they were £16 each plus vat plus bulbs so I had a look on eBay and you can now get LED number plate lights including the covers for £9 so ordered them up and fitted.
They look miles better and freshen up the rear of the car, a bit of a pain to fit as I had to separate the led units from the covers and fit them separately but they work ok now!!! MOT time today.
To the new ones fitted!!
I always like how wide the 255/35/18’s look on the back of these!! Another job that I needed to sort was both light covers were lost for the number plate lights on the boot grab strip. I priced up some OEM covers and they were £16 each plus vat plus bulbs so I had a look on eBay and you can now get LED number plate lights including the covers for £9 so ordered them up and fitted.
They look miles better and freshen up the rear of the car, a bit of a pain to fit as I had to separate the led units from the covers and fit them separately but they work ok now!!! MOT time today.
JB! said:
S54 oil filter housing has take-off ports for an oil cooler, contact Hack Engineering for what you'll specifically want.
Your fan is viscous, so first step is a fresh thermostat and an alloy rad, then upgrade to slimline fan, but don't get a chinese fan as the viscous is better for airflow, you'll need a good quality one.
I had a little nosey on eBay for an S54 oil filter housing and I think there was only the one for sale on there so I’ll have to keep my eyes peeled for one of those. Also because my cars a 330ci manual it already has an electric cooling fan fitted as opposed to a viscous fan so if I upgraded to an alloy radiator and changed the thermostat I think the the cooling fan would be up to the job. Your fan is viscous, so first step is a fresh thermostat and an alloy rad, then upgrade to slimline fan, but don't get a chinese fan as the viscous is better for airflow, you'll need a good quality one.
Mega upgrade to the 320i touring. Should cost a fair bit more on brakes, petrol and tyres 
What happened to the touring then?
I wouldn't bother cheaping out on the coilovers as you'll probably want to replace them after a track day or two and second hand JOM coilovers are worth nothing.
What happened to the touring then?I wouldn't bother cheaping out on the coilovers as you'll probably want to replace them after a track day or two and second hand JOM coilovers are worth nothing.
Andrew-b90y3 said:
I’m going to be building it to a clubsport spec because of the extra power I can afford to leave the carpets and front door cards in etc as I don’t have to save anywhere near as much weight.
Honestly, as the former owner of two of these, I think you're on the wrong track with this. They are seriously heavy cars as standard (over 1500kg!), which will blunt your enjoyment and its performance. Given that the stock car is also only 150bhp/tonne, they actually aren't that quick. I'd be going down the road of stripping as much ballast out as possible.The other thing you should aim to address is the front-rear tyre ratio (225/255). They are horrendously over-tyred as standard, meaning that it tends to understeer when pushed. I'd go hunting out a square set of 8x17s from an E46 (like Style 44s), and try to get 4x 235 45 17s on them. You'll find that the car is a LOT more balanced and more comfortable this way, with the bonus of cheaper tyres.
Great read also considering a track car for a bit of fun every month or so from may/September. Been more into bikes last 5-6 years done track days weekends away TT. Now finding my love for cars again so my 2 bikes are probably going and will be spent on my current 1.4T jet Punto and a track car. Track car will be something budget as It will be sat there most the year and your posts have shown it can be done looking forward to what you do with the 330. Lee.
helix402 said:
225/45 17 or 245/40 17 are the two tyres sizes of standard 17” E46 wheels. (Apart from winter 205 50 17).
Style 68 are a good factory E46 wheel, light and strong. All factory 18s for the E46 are heavy and weak, prone to cracks and buckling.
Absolutely. Style 68 are a good factory E46 wheel, light and strong. All factory 18s for the E46 are heavy and weak, prone to cracks and buckling.
225 are ideal for a 8x17, but 235 will be completely fine and an extra 10mm x4 is not to be sniffed at.
Thank you for the comments everybody!
The Team Dynamics Imolas that I have are 17 x 8 (square setup) with Nankang NS2R (215/45/17) which are what I'm going to use as a dry setup for the car and I know they fit over 330 brakes to so happy days.
Unfortunately mine and my partners 118D had a high pressure pump failure on the M6 a few weeks ago meaning that the 330 has become the family car for a little while until the 1 series is fixed. Hannah phone dies me the other day after driving the car for half an hour saying that she could smell hot, after a conversation which was rather amusing it was clear I had to look at the car so I had a quick nosey and quickly found what could be the cause of the smell of "hot"!!
It's not massively obvious but looking at the bottom of the radiator it's every so slightly curved ha, common E46 problem I think.
Better picture of the damaged radiator.
If this is the condition of the bit you can see I can only imagine what the bits I can't see look like, I reckon that when the cars upto temp and the thermostat open she its pressurising the radiator and its springing a leak. I acquired a radiator and expansion bottle from euro for £95 all in which I thought was an absolute bargain so set about changing them.
This has most definitely been leaking,
Little bit of a side by side about what the radiator should look like!
While I was in there I removed the air conditioning condenser for a few reasons. One is that I'm going to do a full air con delete anyway and two the condenser sits right in front of the radiator and this had also seen better days and could block a lot of airflow to the radiator on track so I just got rid.
Topped her up with some BMW gen coolant and bled the system, ran the car up ad all was well, happy days!
Future plans are to replace the thermostat and water pump but I can only afford to do the rad and bottle at the minute so the other upgrades can come in the future, also noted that a sumo gasket will be needed as there's a bit of a leak at the front of the engine.
Also with reading other threads about 330 track cars a lot of people are saying oil temps run exceedingly high on these cars, with this in mind I've seen these popping up as a solution to run an oil cooler,
Anybody any experience with these?
The Team Dynamics Imolas that I have are 17 x 8 (square setup) with Nankang NS2R (215/45/17) which are what I'm going to use as a dry setup for the car and I know they fit over 330 brakes to so happy days.
Unfortunately mine and my partners 118D had a high pressure pump failure on the M6 a few weeks ago meaning that the 330 has become the family car for a little while until the 1 series is fixed. Hannah phone dies me the other day after driving the car for half an hour saying that she could smell hot, after a conversation which was rather amusing it was clear I had to look at the car so I had a quick nosey and quickly found what could be the cause of the smell of "hot"!!
It's not massively obvious but looking at the bottom of the radiator it's every so slightly curved ha, common E46 problem I think.
Better picture of the damaged radiator.
If this is the condition of the bit you can see I can only imagine what the bits I can't see look like, I reckon that when the cars upto temp and the thermostat open she its pressurising the radiator and its springing a leak. I acquired a radiator and expansion bottle from euro for £95 all in which I thought was an absolute bargain so set about changing them.
This has most definitely been leaking,
Little bit of a side by side about what the radiator should look like!
While I was in there I removed the air conditioning condenser for a few reasons. One is that I'm going to do a full air con delete anyway and two the condenser sits right in front of the radiator and this had also seen better days and could block a lot of airflow to the radiator on track so I just got rid.
Topped her up with some BMW gen coolant and bled the system, ran the car up ad all was well, happy days!
Future plans are to replace the thermostat and water pump but I can only afford to do the rad and bottle at the minute so the other upgrades can come in the future, also noted that a sumo gasket will be needed as there's a bit of a leak at the front of the engine.
Also with reading other threads about 330 track cars a lot of people are saying oil temps run exceedingly high on these cars, with this in mind I've seen these popping up as a solution to run an oil cooler,
Anybody any experience with these?
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