Facebook marketplace Lexus RX400h SE-L, what could go wrong?
Discussion
LincolnLovin said:
That sounds like a fun trip, we’re definitely going to do some proper road trips in 2019.
The first (small) road trip has gone well, the sat nav appears to require a Doctorate to operate. Truly woeful.
The first (small) road trip has gone well, the sat nav appears to require a Doctorate to operate. Truly woeful.
It's not great, is it. Can you enter postcodes? On a 2001 RX300 satnav, you can't. On a 2001 Mercedes CLK satnav, you can. That's the only positive thing I have to say about my old CLK 55 AMG. (Oh, I suppose the engine was quite powerful.)
Motorway driving in the RX300 is fine. Just fly along in comfort enjoying listening to the sound system.
I am beginning to wonder if the steering 'shimmy' could be tyre balancing and alignment related. It seems more pronounced at certain speeds (30mph specifically) and is not as apparent at motorway speeds.
The OSF tyre is running low, and I think the previous owner has put different brands on the front tyres, so I will be replacing them as a matter of course regardless.
The OSF tyre is running low, and I think the previous owner has put different brands on the front tyres, so I will be replacing them as a matter of course regardless.
LincolnLovin said:
I am beginning to wonder if the steering 'shimmy' could be tyre balancing and alignment related. It seems more pronounced at certain speeds (30mph specifically) and is not as apparent at motorway speeds.
The OSF tyre is running low, and I think the previous owner has put different brands on the front tyres, so I will be replacing them as a matter of course regardless.
The tyres certainly won't help; you may find that alignment places won't touch it until you've sorted this, so I'd go that route firstThe OSF tyre is running low, and I think the previous owner has put different brands on the front tyres, so I will be replacing them as a matter of course regardless.
IMO; Camskill and Tyreleader generally have the best prices for tyres
The shimmy at 30mph could be the duff tyres or bad tracking/alignment, could be worn bushes or ball joints too, so check the suspension over, part n parcel etc
d_a_n1979 said:
The tyres certainly won't help; you may find that alignment places won't touch it until you've sorted this, so I'd go that route first
IMO; Camskill and Tyreleader generally have the best prices for tyres
The shimmy at 30mph could be the duff tyres or bad tracking/alignment, could be worn bushes or ball joints too, so check the suspension over, part n parcel etc
Steering bushes are next on the list (advisory on the mot that they were cracking), but as I suspect it requires the lower control arms to be replaced it's going to be pricey.IMO; Camskill and Tyreleader generally have the best prices for tyres
The shimmy at 30mph could be the duff tyres or bad tracking/alignment, could be worn bushes or ball joints too, so check the suspension over, part n parcel etc
LincolnLovin said:
That sounds like a fun trip, we’re definitely going to do some proper road trips in 2019.
The first (small) road trip has gone well, the sat nav appears to require a Doctorate to operate. Truly woeful.
How are you finding it? I've been looking at the GS450H of a similar vintage and wondering how well the hybrid system works, especially around town.The first (small) road trip has gone well, the sat nav appears to require a Doctorate to operate. Truly woeful.
Great cars. you cant really do better for 5k for a family car to just waft about in comfort. Legendary reliability. only thing other than standard servicing mine has had is a radiator. It wasn't leaking but had a crack in it so changed it before it went. Original bulbs even and still (just) on original discs and pads after 105k. Great stereo too.
LincolnLovin said:
Steering bushes are next on the list (advisory on the mot that they were cracking), but as I suspect it requires the lower control arms to be replaced it's going to be pricey.
I replaced the offside lower control arm on my RX400h myself. Pattern parts available for around £100 incl the ball joint. You do need to jack the engine up slightly but its not too difficult. I will be doing the nearside soon as mine was also a MOT advisory... I got my girlfriend one of these a couple of months back, was trying to get back in a barge and this just does everything so well. Great cars and I think they are pretty quick for what they are as well.
One thing to note from my experience - when I got it I thought as a mater of course change out the front lower arms as the parts are quite cheap and it could do with it as it is on a 100k. However got my friendly mechanic round and he started work on it but came up against the engine and the subframe issue. He then spoke to a Lexus technician who said they book ten hours for this job!!
From what I have heard and read online as well, it is very rare that you actually need to change them (apparently) if you look on the Lexus US forums some say they dont require doing at all, unless you bend one by crashing it.
Would be interested to know personally how you get around this if possible to change in quicker manner.
Such a comfortable car though and very solidly built
One thing to note from my experience - when I got it I thought as a mater of course change out the front lower arms as the parts are quite cheap and it could do with it as it is on a 100k. However got my friendly mechanic round and he started work on it but came up against the engine and the subframe issue. He then spoke to a Lexus technician who said they book ten hours for this job!!
From what I have heard and read online as well, it is very rare that you actually need to change them (apparently) if you look on the Lexus US forums some say they dont require doing at all, unless you bend one by crashing it.
Would be interested to know personally how you get around this if possible to change in quicker manner.
Such a comfortable car though and very solidly built
maxwellwd said:
One thing to note from my experience - when I got it I thought as a mater of course change out the front lower arms as the parts are quite cheap and it could do with it as it is on a 100k. However got my friendly mechanic round and he started work on it but came up against the engine and the subframe issue. He then spoke to a Lexus technician who said they book ten hours for this job!!
From what I have heard and read online as well, it is very rare that you actually need to change them (apparently) if you look on the Lexus US forums some say they dont require doing at all, unless you bend one by crashing it.
Would be interested to know personally how you get around this if possible to change in quicker manner.
Around a year ago I bought (practically stole...) an unloved LPG converted RX300 Second Gen. I believe the engine mount / lower control arm layout is the same throughout Second Gen inc RX400h.From what I have heard and read online as well, it is very rare that you actually need to change them (apparently) if you look on the Lexus US forums some say they dont require doing at all, unless you bend one by crashing it.
Would be interested to know personally how you get around this if possible to change in quicker manner.
To change the lower control arms you don't need to drop the subframe nor remove the engine as once stated by Lexus. Access to a lift is strongly recommended as are engine and transmission jacks. It could be done with axle stands and trolley jacks but it would be more difficult. A helper is a distinct advantage.
Take great care as you will be moving some seriously heavy lumps of metal and I can't accept any responsibility for injury of vehicle damage.
First, remove the top engine mount (dog bone) completely and then the top bolt from the front engine mount. Next, raise and secure the vehicle and remove both front wheels. There is a small plastic panel in the drivers side wheel well which must be removed. Now move under the car and remove the plugs in the subframe which allow access to the lower back engine mount securing nuts. Undo these nuts.
If you do not intent to change the lower ball joint you can skip the next stage but it's little extra expense and could save repeating a lot of work at a later date.
Move to the hub and remove the central hub nut. BE SURE to straighten the "dimple" in the nut which is depressed in order to act as a retainer. Failure to do this will destroy the axle threads upon removal. You will require a deep 30mm 12 point socket to remove this nut. Nothing else will fit. This nut will be extremely tight (something like 217nm) and an impact wrench will make life much easier. After removal, tap the axle end to release the cv from the steering knuckle being careful not to damage the threads.
Next undo and separate the ball joint for the track rod end and follow by removing the three bolts which hold the ball joint to the control arm so that you can lever the control arm down and free. This will allow enough movement in the strut to push the cv axle out and you will now have access to the lower ball joint for splitting / removal.
At this stage you can move to each side engine mount and remove the top nuts followed by the lower securing nuts. The drivers side mount requires removal of a bracket attached to the engine. This bracket fits over a stud with a 5mm torx head and removing this stud makes life much easier. Take care not to shear the stud when removing.
You should now be able to support the engine and transmission with jacks, ensuring a good pad between jack and oil pans. Gently raise the engine / trans and you should gain enough clearance to remove both side engine mounts which will allow access to the control arm bolts into the subframe. At this stage it's easy! There is a bracket on the control arm which the bolts pass through which must be removed and fitted to the new arms. Reassembly is the reverse and will be obvious.
Things to note: The split pins in all my ball joints were badly rusted and had to be drilled out adding to the time required. As mentioned before, some bolts will be EXTREMELY tight and are required to be re-tightened to similar levels. You may wish to inspect your engine mounts prior to doing this as it is an excellent opportunity to replace them if required. You may wish to have a wheel alignment performed afterwards.
I hope this makes sense and helps! There are some good (and some less good) guides on youtube. To allow for problems, I'd allow yourself a day to complete both sides but you may well complete it more quickly.
In your next drive, can you see how high you can get the MPG?
I was watching a YT vid of 5th Gear doing a test for an RX400H and he said that if you kept it under 31mph, it tries to only use the electric motor. I live in London so it could be a form of entertainment for me, the next thing up from hypermiling my petrol V6.
I was watching a YT vid of 5th Gear doing a test for an RX400H and he said that if you kept it under 31mph, it tries to only use the electric motor. I live in London so it could be a form of entertainment for me, the next thing up from hypermiling my petrol V6.
I think the key is to find the sweet spot when driving long distance where it can be moved along on battery only. I am used to coasting and finding larger objects (trucks/coaches) to follow, along side driving at 64 ish mph in the left hand lane at all times from my time in the Leaf.
It's going to be weird heading to the Zoo tomorrow and not have to plan charging alternatives.
It's going to be weird heading to the Zoo tomorrow and not have to plan charging alternatives.
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