My 1999 Honda s2000 - My Journey, Beware it's a Long Read.
Discussion
Hi All,
I acquired a Honda s2000 last year after lusting after one of these for 20 years.
(ever since they were released)
In my current situation, and having sold my 1999 Prelude 2.2vti for personal reasons it was now or never to own one.
I am a loyal Honda fan, and have pretty much owned Honda's throughout my 20 year driving career, with a few exceptions.
(1999 - 2002) - 2nd driver on my dad's 1994 1.6 Toyota Carina E
(2002 - 2005) - My First Car: 1994 Honda Civic, 3 door, 1.3 Dx (D13B2)
(2005 - 2010) - 2000 Honda Civic, 2 door coupe, 1.6 SOHC (D16Y7)
(2010 - 2016) - 1999 Honda Prelude, 2 door coupe, 2.2 vti (H22A8 red top)
(2010 - 2014) - 2000 Seat Arosa, 3 door Hatch, 1.7 SDI diesel (daily commuter)
(2014 - present) - 2006 Honda Accord, 4 door saloon, 2.2 i-ctdi (N22A) Diesel
(Still currently in ownership - My daily commuter)
@ 198k miles with original clutch, timing chain, turbo and exhaust system
(2018 - present) - 1999 Honda s2000, 2 door convertible, 2 litre (F20C) - AP1
I've always tried to do most of the work on my car's myself throughout the years, and have learnt so much about cars in general. Not having a garage or driveway, it does however limit what I tackle though.
Due to their current prices, my budget could only allow for the pre-face version.
The s2000 is an early 1999 model, there are a few things that need addressing due to it being stood around for many years but overall it is in great condition.
It's going to make for an interesting project.
I thought I would share my experiences and the journey throughout my s2000 ownership. I have tried to document each task with as much detail as possible.
So beware, it's a long read which I hope you will enjoy.
I will keep this thread updated.
My s2000 journey begins.
The Purchase
04-04-2018
When they first came out back in 1999, I knew one day I had to have one. However, over the past several years their values have been steadily increasing with a facelift 2005 model now reaching around £13k.
It always seems true, when your after something nothing pops up and when you’re not they are always plentiful.
At the time, not many s2000’s were up for sale. It may be due to the time of year or just my bad luck.
I managed to view over 4 S2000's, even one from a Honda dealer which didn’t even go into reverse gear properly.
I realised that most S2000's out there are actually in quite poor condition. People tend to buy them, keep them for a year or so and then sell them on to gain from its increase in value.
With that, anything over 10k was over my budget. I then started to look at the older pre-facelift models.
I managed to find and bag one for a really cheap price due to it needing some work, however overall it is in great shape.
The body is in good condition and the car does feature original facelift version 2 alloys.
The seller was great guy and we managed to get a deal sorted, I paid a deposit and me and a friend picked it up a week later.
The driving experience is so different to any Honda I have driven, the rawness of the S2000 coupled with its superb gearbox and that 9k RPM limit engine makes you feel like you're in a racing car.
When you push that engine and work those gears the car just puts a smile on your face every time.
The previous owner has had the car standing for quite some time, the usual suspects need addressing.
This includes:
-Flaky rocker cover
-Brake discs and pads
-Seized rear callipers
-Very slight rust appearing on the lower rear quarter of the side sill
-Clutch is slightly worn
-Will need a fresh service (all fluids)
No plans for any major modifications, the car will be more of a project restoration with the odd genuine OEM accessory upgrade.
Shortly after purchase on the 04-04-18, the work began on project 2000.
I had a good look over the car and created a list of the areas that needed addressing.
This list was quite extensive but I began with the basics first.
Task 1 - Alarm Install
14-04-2018
The first task on the agenda was to install a CAT 1 alarm system, due to the s2000 being a pre 2001 model it only came with a factory immobilizer with central locking. No factory alarm system was present.
The system I selected was a Toad AI606 system, previously used on my 1999 Honda Prelude and proved to be a reliable easy to use simple system. There was only one person in my mind to have this installed.
This was Rakesh from RD electrics, he installed the same system on my Prelude and the craftsmanship and quality of his work was top notch.
Rakesh did a fantastic job and I can't recommend him enough, the install was straight forward and went smoothly.
Due to the age of the car, all door pin switches were also removed and cleaned to avoid the alarm going off accidently. The door pin switches had some slight corrosion but all cleaned up well with their connectors all intact and in excellent condition.
Parts Purchased:
Part: Alarm System Kit
Part Number: TOAD AI606
Supplier: Supplied by Rakesh
Services Used:
R&D Electrics (Alarm Install Services)
Contact: Rakesh
Mobile: 077395-40000
Email: rakesh6466@sky.com
https://en-gb.facebook.com/fonz6466/
Resources used
None
Task 2 - Basic Oil Service
14-04-2018
The next task was to perform a basic service on the s2000, this was performed straight after the alarm install.
All filters used were genuine Honda.
This included:
-Oil change using 5w 40 (Oil chosen was the Motul 5w/40 x-cess)
-Oil filter
-Air filter
-Pollen filter
-Spark Plugs
The other fluids, i.e, Coolant, Transmission, Diff, Brake and Clutch will be performed later.
Changing the oil on the s2000 was surprising quite easy, the oil filter is easily accessible with the air filter being right in front of the engine bay within a large air box.
The pollen filter is located under the front windshield scuttle panel and was a breeze to change over.
Replacing the spark plugs were relatively easy, the existing spark plugs looked in good condition and showed that the engine has been performing ok. Spark plugs were tighten using the revised torque specifications.
I decided to go for the iridium type spark plugs instead of the platinum type for better longevity.
Overall a very pleasant and enjoyable task, being classic Honda design everything was easily accessible.
Parts Purchased
Part: Engine Oil (Motul 5w/50 x-cess)
Part Number: N/A
Supplier: Tegiwa
Part: Engine Oil Filter (Genuine Honda) (Also included sump drain washer)
Part Number: 15400-PCX-004
Supplier: August Motor Honda via their ebay shop
(Balmer Lawn Group)
Part: Air Filter (Genuine Honda)
Part Number: 17220-PCX-003
Supplier: August Motor Honda via their ebay shop
(Balmer Lawn Group)
Part: Pollen Filter (Genuine Honda)
Part Number: 79831-S2A-003
Supplier: August Motor Honda via their ebay shop
(Balmer Lawn Group)
Part: NGK Spark Plugs (Iridium)
Part Number: IFR7G-11KS
Supplier: Tegiwa
Services Used:
None
Resources used
Oil Change
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/s2000-under-hood-22/di...
Spark Plug Change
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/s2000-under-hood-22/sp...
Air filter Change
https://howtune.com/articles/97-replace-the-air-fi...
You Tube Video: Pollen filter change
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jHylusRKJV4
Task 3 - Engine Bay Deep Clean
22-04-2018
The next task after the basic service was to perform a deep clean on the engine bay.
Initially the engine bay wasn't too bad but there were definite signs that the car had been sat around for a long while. It would also be a good opportunity to have a good in-depth view around the engine bay to see if anything required addressing.
I began by removing the battery and hoovering up all the debris in that corner, the process consisted of a bottled spray gun filled with fairy liquid and water, a tooth brush and an old unused paint brush.
Whilst I was around the battery area, I unbolted both grounding cables and wire brushed them to remove all the corrosion I could.
The air box was also removed and all chassis sections inspected and cleaned.
Due to the age of the car there are areas, fixtures and fittings that have rusted slightly but overall it is a vast improvement to the overall look of the engine bay.
The rocker cover will be replaced with a newly refurbished one which is on order and will be fitted very soon.
Parts Purchased
None
Services Used:
None
Resources used
None
Task 4 - Front Door Speaker Check & Revert Back To Originals
05-05-2018
During a drive I noticed that the sound output from the passenger side speaker became slightly intermittent on certain occasions, mainly during uneven road surfaces.
A quick peer into the speaker grills reveal that the original speakers have been replaced by some JBL types.
Due to this upgrade and the intermittent sound issue I was concerned that the DIY speaker upgrade from the previous owner may have been performed poorly.
The speakers will be reverted back to originals, however the original speakers for this model of s2000 were the paper cone type. These seem hard to come by, therefore the later blue coned type speakers were purchased as these are plentiful on the 2nd hand market and perform much better.
A good condition pair of later spec blue coned original s2000 speakers were purchased.
The door cards were swiftly removed and the quality of the JBL speaker install became apparent. The JBL speakers were fitted to the original Honda speaker baskets which was quite impressive. The original speaker loom and connectors were all still intact which was a relief. The previous owner connected the JBl speakers to the original connectors using modified spade connectors hence the poor contact. All this was poorly wrapped generously with electrical tape.
With all that removed, the install of the original s2000 speakers was clean and swift, with connectors being cleaned up and some multipurpose grease added to the connector contacts to prevent any corrosion.
The rest of the door assembly was inspected with no other areas having been touched or modified. Even the original door sheet membrane still intact and untouched.
The sound from the original speakers are surprisingly good and very happy with the results.
Speaker Purchased
Door Card Removed Showing JBL Speaker Setup
Poor Quality of Wiring Connection but Original Connector and Loom Intact and not modified
Original Speakers Installed
Parts Purchased
Part: Original s2000 Speakers
Part Number: N/A
Supplier: Ebay Purchase (2nd Hand)
Services Used:
None
Resources used
None
Task 5 - Modifry Bracket Phone Holder
05-05-2018
One of problems with the s2000 in today's modern age is that there are not many options or suitable places within the cabin to mount your mobile phone.
With various online searches there was always one brand/design that was mentioned.
This design came from a company based in the states and goes by the name of Modifry.
Bob at Modifry specially designed a bracket mount which installs on the side of the dash cluster.
The item is quite pricey (being in the uk) for a bit of metal but this seemed to be the perfect solution to all s2000 owners and I can see why it is so popular.
With the product coming from the states, it does mean expensive shipping costs, slightly longer shipping time and the potential of customs duty tax being charged upon entering the UK.
To my amazement, the package came within 5 days and no duty was charged
Upon opening the package it came with some instructions and all pieces individually wrapped in their plastic bags. I also ordered their universal phone holder as it attaches neatly to the bracket using the supplied screws.
The install was pretty straight forward with only the cutting of the excess plastic trim being quite tricky due to the fear of slipping and damaging the interior. Taking it slow with a sharp craft knife was the key here and in no time the trim was neatly cut.
If the bracket was ever removed in the future, none of the cut trim will be seen when re-assembled.
The bracket and phone holder was soon attached, extra phone grippers were also purchased to further hold the phone in its cradle - I would highly recommend them if your phone is as big or bigger than a Samsung Galaxy S6.
Overall a great bit of kit, the cradle and bracket are stable at high speeds and on rough roads. It keeps the phone in place and does not move around.
There are a few issues that I have found:
-The phone holder does sit quite low and on the occasional gear change you can hit the phone/bracket assembly.
-If you have the phone charging, the cable exits on the bottom of my phone and therefore will hinder your gear changing.
-Due to the phones position when mounted, you can get reflection/glare from the phone screen, but twisting the phone slightly towards the driver can eliminate this.
However, despite these issues it is nice to have a place to mount your phone when driving the s2000 albeit slightly on the pricey side.
The Kit
Install
Finished
Parts Purchased
Part: Modifry Dash Bracket
Part Number: N/A
Supplier: Modifry
Web: www.modifry.com
Part: Universal Phone Holder
Part Number: N/A
Supplier: Modifry
Web: www.modifry.com
Part: Additional Phone Grippers for Phone Holder
Part Number: N/A
Supplier: Modifry
Web: www.modifry.com
Services Used:
None
Resources used
DIYguys You tube Video (Modifry Bracket Install Guide)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E2sjoCC6c4o
Task 6 - Interior Deep Clean
05-05-2018
Whilst staying within the interior, the next task was to perform a deep clean of the interior. Being a convertible, the interior would have been exposed to lots of dirt and grime over the years.
The job began by removing all the top layer carpets and hoovering the main carpets thoroughly, this included all hard to reach areas behind and under the seats.
After the carpets were hoovered, they were scrubbed using an interior type brush and autoglym interior shampoo. The results from this was fresher looking and smelling carpets.
The next stage was to clean the dash cluster, all the buttons were individually cleaned using autoglym interior shampoo and a toothbrush. Removing all dirt and grime around each button.
The results were shockingly good, with the dash cluster looking really fresh and clean, the vents were also cleaned using a detailing brush.
The stereo system was mainly untouched and in fabulous condition with the original Honda cassette stereo still in place, further inspection reveals that the stereo has never been removed. No marks or scratches are present anywhere around the fascia or surround trim panels. The original CD changer is still in the boot and in full operational order.
The old tax disc holder was still present and was removed, the adhesive remains cleaned using IPA.
Both seats were brushed and megauries leather treatment was applied to them to help restore its texture and finish.
Parts Purchased
None
Services Used:
None
Resources used
None
Task 7 - Soft Top Striker Modification
12-05-2018
At higher motorway speeds, my s2000's roof tends to leak some wind noise.
The soft top roof on my s2000 had been replaced by the previous owner so it is not the original one, however upon reading a few threads there is a modification that can be performed to help reduce the wind noise from a roof that does not sit 100% flush with the windshield edge.
The OEM solution is to install the hardtop strikers, these are similar to the soft top striker plates but are much thicker. Priced at around £40 ish each, they are quite pricey.
I thought I would give the washer modification a try considering it is a quick and cheap solution.
The relevant interior trim all unclipped with ease with the help of "DIYguys" fantastic video.
The M6 washers (x2 per screw) and longer M6 machine screw were fitted and the soft top strikers re-installed.
As a result, the soft top strikers clamps the roof much tighter, on a road test the wind noise has pretty much been eliminated.
A fantastic result.
This solution may not work and will depend on how worn out your roof or existing strikers are but it is highly worth trying before purchasing the hard top striker versions.
Parts Purchased
Part: M6 x25mm Machine Screw with (1mm pitch thread)
Part Number: M6x25
Supplier: KaysFast1 (via their ebay store)
Web: www.ebay.co.uk
Part: M6 Form C Washer
Part Number: M6 Washers
Supplier: KaysFast1 (via their ebay store)
Web: www.ebay.co.uk
Services Used:
None
Resources used
DIY guys youtube video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=idoBp0KzKkU
Task 8 - Hard Top Brackets Installation
19-05-2018
One of the items on my wish list for the s2000 is a hardtop roof.
I was unfortunate to find a GT version of the s2000 that already came with a hardtop roof.
However, long before owning an s2000 I was able to find a set of hardtop roof brackets. They popped up on ebay at a great price so I snapped them up.
The thought here, if I didn't buy an s2000 they could be sold on pretty easily.
By installing the hardtop brackets now it would be ready for a hardtop if one popped up second hand in the future.
I studied the Honda hard top instructions manual and the fitting of the brackets seem relatively straight forward.
The kit I purchased came with the modified plastic trim sections with the hardtop version brushes, I began by removing the various trim pieces from behind the front seats.
Then removing the quarter panel plastic trim pieces.
This exposed the inner metal sections where the brackets are to be fitted.
The install was quick and simple along with re-assembly.
It would be much easier if the seats were removed although I didn't have that luxury due to performing car work on a side street.
My s2000 is an early model and therefore does not have the rear heated window wiring and loom.
This can be added later if I desire, perhaps if a hardtop is purchased I will look into purchasing the rear heater demister loom and switch.
A great result and now ready for a hardtop
Parts Purchased
Part: Right Hardtop Body Catcher
Part Number: n/a
Supplier: Ebay (2nd hand)
Web: www.ebay.co.uk
Part: Left Hardtop Body Catcher
Part Number: n/a
Supplier: Ebay (2nd hand)
Web: www.ebay.co.uk
Part: Right Side Hardtop Version Plastic Trim Piece
Part Number: n/a
Supplier: Ebay (2nd hand)
Web: www.ebay.co.uk
Part: Left Side Hardtop Version Plastic Trim Piece
Part Number: n/a
Supplier: Ebay (2nd hand)
Web: www.ebay.co.uk
Services Used:
None
Resources used
Honda Instructions Manual for Hardtop Installation
https://www.handa-accessories.com/s2000/s2k2top.pd...
Task 9 - Deep Clean Boot/Trunk
19-05-2018
The next area that required a good clean and check was the boot area.
This would allow me to check all aspects of the boot, including the spare tyre. It also allowed me to check the base of the boot to see if any standing water was present underneath the tool box section.
Tasks included
-Remove spare tyre
-Check spare tyre condition and pump up to recommend pressure
-Check spare tyre recess and clean as required
-Clean all boot oem tools and check condition and function of car jack
-Hoover and clean all interior trim pieces
-Remove rubber boot seal on top edge and check of rust or broken paint
(Touch up as required)
Once the spare wheel was removed, I had a good look through into the rear of the car and it all seemed pretty clean.
No signs of any water leaks which meant the hood water drains were ok and no water was entering the boot area.
Parts Purchased
None
Services Used:
None
Resources used
None
Task 10 - Amber Side Lights
19-05-2018
I have always liked the look of amber side lights, so this gave me an opportunity to swap over the 501 capless side bulbs in the headlamps with osram amber versions.
The install was rather tricky due to limited access. The arch liners had to be completely peeled away to gain access to the rear of the headlamp.
Parts Purchased:
Part: Osram Amber 501 Capless Bulbs
Part Number: xxxxxxxx
Supplier: Amazon
Web: www.Amazon.co.uk
Services Used:
None
Resources used
S2ki Forum thread
Xenon bulb headlight replacement Guide
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/s2000-under-hood-22/di...
Task 11 - Throttle Body , IACV, MAP Sensor and PCV Valve Clean
(Also Map Sensor Bracket Strap Install)
30-05-2018
Most s2000's suffer from the rpm rev dip issue usually upon a blip of the throttle. According to threads and other s2000 owners this is a common issue with s2000's. The main culprit is usually the IACV (intake air control valve) this is quite an expensive component but usually with a good clean you can resolve the issue. I also intend to clean out a few other components too.
To begin, the negative battery terminal was disconnected.
IACV Valve
Again, using DIYguys excellent youtube video guide, the process was straight forward. I actually removed the component by disconnecting the coolant hose feeds and lifting it away. I found it alot easier to clean the IACV valve with the component out. Once the component was out there was significant carbon build up inside the chambers.
A good clean with a cotton ear bud and brake cleaner the IACV valve was looking as good as new. The motor assembly was also removed which allowed the internal flap to be properly cleaned, I also ensured this flap rotated smoothly.
MAP sensor and PCV valve
Whilst the IACV was out the MAP sensor and PCV valve was also cleaned.
The PCV valve was removed from the rocker cover and sprayed with brake cleaner. With a good shake of the PCV valve the rattle noise was still present within the component which indicates the PCV valve is in good working order. The MAP sensor was cleaned with CRC spray due to being a much sensitive component. It is not recommended to clean the MAP sensor with brake cleaner.
Throttle Body
Another task on the agenda was to clean the throttle body, from inspecting the fixings it is apparent that the throttle body has never been removed or cleaned. The process was relatively easy with just a few hoses being a little tricky to remove due to its age and never being touched.
Once removed the butterfly was inspected, the amount of carbon build up was quite significant.
A thorough clean with brake cleaner including all the ports was performed. The internals of the throttle body was looking fantastic.
Vtec Solenoid
The last task was to remove, inspect and clean the vtec solenoid. Easy access being at the front side of the engine block, removal consisted of three bolts so it was a breeze to remove.
Once removed, it was inspected, the chamber with the mesh in front had no metallic debris which is an excellent sign and proves no metal shavings or debris have been floating around the engine for any reason.
The part looked in excellent shape, a quick clean using brake cleaner it was re-installed back in no time. All surrounding areas of the vtec solenoid was cleaned also.
Re-assembly and Map Sensor bracket Strap Install
Once I was happy that the IACV, PCV valve, throttle body and MAP sensor was cleaned, the re-assembly process began. Everything all went back together as easy as they were to remove.
The MAP sensor bracket strap was also purchased and installed.
This was a Honda TSB (technical service bulletin) which resolved a potential issue of hesitation upon hard acceleration. The root cause was down to the MAP sensor electrical connector becoming loose. The strap ensures the connector is fully secured with no movement.
I didn't experience this issue but I thought it would be good practice to eliminate the possibility of it ever occurring.
Once everything was back together, the battery was re-connected and DIYguys ECU relearn procedure was performed.
The results were fantastic, the throttle response was alot smoother and the rev dip was almost but eliminated. Due to the nature of the s2000 it will probably return but for now the efforts above are well worth it.
Parts Purchased
Part: MAP Sensor Bracket Strap
Part Number: 32125PCX003
Supplier: Holdcroft Honda
Email Contact: Gareth@HH.com
Part: Brake Cleaner
Part Number: N/A
Supplier: Eurocarparts
Web: www.eurocarparts.com
Part: CRC Electrical Contact Cleaner
Part Number: N/A
Supplier: Ebay
Web: www.ebay.co.uk
Services Used:
None
Resources used
DIY Guys IACV Cleaning guide
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xWtNORKhOJ0
DIY Guys ECU relearn procedure
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dUMDzCvONTs
Task 12 - Four Piece Genuine Honda Mats Installation
31-05-2018
The interior of the s2000 is generally a lovely place to be. However the only item in the cabin that lets it down are the previous owners mat set. They seem to well used and an aftermarket type.
Honda still offers the JDM type 4 piece mat set, pretty pricey but in my opinion well worth it.
I decided to get the black set for a nice contrast against the red main carpet and seats.
Upon installation, it was soon discovered that due to my s2000 being an early model the fixings for this type of mat set do not exist.
However, due to the placement and design of the mat set, which utilizes a special bracket which sits over the chassis cross member this helps to keep the mat set in place without any modification.
Once installed they look fantastic.
A worthy upgrade to any s2000 interior.
Parts Purchased:
Part: Honda 4 Piece Mat Set
Part Number: 08P16S2A510A
Supplier: Coxmotorparts
Web: www.coxmotorparts.co.uk
Services Used:
None
Resources used
S2ki forum Thread "mats install"
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/uk-ireland-s2000-commu...
Task 13 - Water Leak into Drivers Foot well
31-05-2018
A couple days this week saw some heavy rainfall and whilst installing the mat set in the previous task it was noticed that the main carpet on the driver's side foot well was quite wet.
This was quite a concern as water leaking into the cabin is never a good thing. Moisture from the water can cause bad smells, invoke rust and cause mould and bacteria growth if left unnoticed.
I began to look online to see if anyone experienced a similar issue, most water leak cases for the s2000 occurs on poor soft top hood drainage which results in water leaks in the boot. However I did stumble across a thread on s2ki where an individual investigated the same problem that I was experiencing.
The root cause was the water seal gasket on the rubber drainage trim on the A-pillar. The gasket directs the water flow outwards into the door recess areas. With this particular gasket being worn away from its position it would allow water to flow directly downwards and into the area behind the bonnet release catch. See images below, notice that the gasket has moved away from its adhesive location and allow water to pass by.
This rubber trim piece seems to be a complete part which fits the entire windshield. Replacing it would either be quite expensive and or a pain to remove and replace.
In its current state the trim piece is still in good condition so it I decided to go down the repair route.
The old gasket section was removed and its area fully cleaned.
In order to replace this gasket, silicon sealant was used. This provided a good high quality long lasting reliable seal. This was applied on the same location as the old gasket, the trim piece was re-installed with the silicon left to cure.
So far no water has leaked into the cabin, a fantastic result.
Parts Purchased:
Part: Dow Corning Clear Silicon Sealant 78g
Part Number: N/A
Supplier: Ebay - Sealants and Tools Direct
Services Used:
None
Resources used
S2ki forum Thread "Water leak investigation"
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/s2000-under-hood-22/wa...
Task 14 - S2000 First Photo Shoot
02-06-2018
After the above tasks, there was an opportunity to perform a quick photo shoot of the s2000.
We found some lovely roads in Hertfordshire for a great drive and some photos.
Task 15 - Fit New Centre Caps to Wheels
03-06-2018
With the s2000 having facelift v2 wheels they came with unofficial centre caps which did not do the wheels any justice.
I wanted the original Honda centre caps but for the face lifted wheels they were quite pricey. Although they were still available to purchase from Honda.
I decided to go for them and once installed, it totally transformed the look of the wheel.
Something so simple but yet have a great impact of the aesthetic of a wheel.
Parts Purchased:
Part: Genuine Honda Centre Cap x4 (for facelifted wheels)
Part Number: 44732-S2A-921
Supplier: Htune
Web: www.Htune.com
Services Used:
None
Resources used
None
Task 16 - Treat all Roof/Door/Boot Seals with Shin-Etsui Silicon Grease
03-06-2018
One of the most recommended tasks for any s2000 owner is to treat all rubber seals with the Honda Shin Etsui grease.
This is a relatively simple task and just involves working the grease into the rubber seals, this moistens up the rubber and stops it from drying out which can lead to poor sealing and water leaking.
All seals were treated including:
-All roof seals
-Apillar seals
-Door seals
-Boot seals
-Front edge Bonnet seal
Parts Purchased:
Part: Hond Shin Etsui Grease
Part Number: 087989013
Supplier: Coxmotorparts
Web: www.coxmotorparts.co.uk
Services Used:
None
Resources used
None
Task 17 - Clutch Change/Valve Clearances/Brake Overhaul & Remaining Fluids Change
@ Performance Autoworks
04-06-2018
One of the main issues with the s2000 was the clutch. Having done approx 87k miles and with it being an early s2000 the clutch had seen better days.
There was also the early technical service bulletin (TSB) present on my s2000 called clutch buzz.
The clutch operation would be fine with only a buzzing sound present when decelerating, most s2000 owners with the issue tend to live with it until the time a clutch change is required.
This occurs when decelerating from 2nd or 3rd gear, a buzzing sound would be present.
The root cause of this were the friction disc plate springs vibrating at high rotational speeds.
I thought it would be an ideal time to get the clutch replaced with the revised genuine part, Rich also advised that the clutch release fork should also be replaced as these can significantly wear too.
Along with the clutch I also decided to get Performance Autoworks to perform a complete brake overhaul. With the car having sat around for many years, the callipers, mainly the rears were seized on and the discs were pretty rusted, they weren't the best brand either being pajid. The brake fluid was near enough a brown colour too.
Another TSB on my s2000 was the rear axle nut. This involved the current axle nut torque setting not being sufficient/tight enough. The results from this would be a clicking sound at low speeds.
Thankfully my s2000 did not have this issue but I thought it would be a good idea to get the axle nuts torque to the revised settings.
Valve clearances are very important on the F20 engine, this was on the agenda including fitting of a new refurbed rocker and spark plug cover refurbed by "spooner restorations".
I also included brand new genuine Honda gaskets and spark plug washer seals.
I also decided to get Rich at Performance Autoworks to perform other little jobs below
Including the above:
Major Re-work
-Replace clutch and fork
-Fit new rocker cover including new gaskets/seals and top rocker washers
-Adjust Valve clearances
-Check valve retainers for cracks (cracks can be caused by over revving)
-Check and if required tighten up rear axle nuts (TSB)
-Replace front/rear callipers
-Replace front rear brake discs and pads
Remaining Fluids Change
-Flush and replace coolant
-Flush and replace brake fluid
-Flush and replace clutch fluid
-Flush and replace transmission fluid - MTF3
-Flush and replace rear differential fluid
Other Work
-Replace a missing heat shield fastening bolt
-Replace firewall brake pipe holders.
Overall the re-work above went well, Rich at Performance Autoworks did have a little trouble with one of the main sub frame bolts which can be pretty troublesome. However it came out without any major trouble.
Quite amazing despite the year of the car and with it being standing outside for many years.
The new clutch feels amazing, a lovely soft feel and with the transmission fluid replaced the shift action now feels incredible. Slots into all gears smoothly and is a joy to use.
Original clutch worn down to its rivets.
Parts Purchased:
Part: Genuine Honda Clutch Kit (3 piece)
Part Number: 22105-PCX-325
Part: Genuine Honda Clutch Release Fork
Part Number: 08CLA-G01-6S0
Part: Genuine Honda Front Brake Discs
Part Number: 45251-S2A-000
Part: Genuine Honda Rear Brake Discs
Part Number: 42510-S2A-000
Part: Genuine Honda Front Brake Pads
Part Number: 45022-S2A-E51
Part: Genuine Honda Rear Brake Pads
Part Number: 06430-S2A-E50
Part: Front Brake Calipers (Pair)
Part Number: BCA4714 (Left) BCA4715 (Right)
Part: Rear Brake Callipers (Pair)
Part Number: BCA4726 (Left) BCA4727 (Right)
Part: Genuine Honda HYpoid HG0 Diff Fluid (x1 litre)
Part Number: 08294-P99-01HE
Part: Genuine Honda Type 2 Coolant (x5 litres)
Part Number: 22820-PCY-000
Part: Genuine Honda MTF3 Fluid (x2 litres)
Part Number: 082679-990-2HE
Part: Castrol React Brake Fluid (x2 litres)
Part Number: Castrol React
Part: Genuine Honda Map Sensor Bracket Strap
Part Number: 32125-PCX-003
Part: Genuine Honda Firewall Brake Line Clips
Part Number: 46396-S84-A01
Part: Genuine Honda Rocker Cover Gasket Kit
Part Number: 12040-PCX-305
Part: Genuine Honda Spark Plug Seals
Part Number: 12342-PCX-004
Services Used:
Performance Autoworks (Fairford/Gloucestershire GL7 4BX)
Contact: Richard Voaden
Tel: 01285 711 733
Email: info@performance-autoworks.co.uk
https://www.facebook.com/pages/Performance-Autowor...
Spooner Restorations
Contact: Paul Flaxton
Tel: 07515881784
Email: paulflaxton@googlemail.com
http://www.spoonerrestorations.co.uk
Resources used
None
Task 18 - Brake Calliper Carrier Paint
16-06-2018
After the major brake overhaul at Performance Autoworks the calliper carriers needed a refresh against the newly refurbished brake callipers.
Factory silver was the obvious choice, removing the calliper carrier and having them sent off for powder coating was the ideal way to go.
Unfortunately my home setup won't allow the car to be left on axle stands whilst this occurs. So this was done the old fashioned way.
A quick wire brush to the carriers and a paint brush application of silver Hammerite paint.
All 4 calliper carriers were done very quickly and with pretty good results.
Parts Purchased:
Part: Silver Hammerite Paint
Part Number: N/A
Supplier: Homebase (Any DIY Store)
Services Used:
None
Resources used
None
Task 19 - Xenon Bulb Replacement
16-06-2018
The next task was to replace the passenger side front non working xenon low beam headlight.
The front low beams of the s2000 feature xenon HID lighting from the factory.
The bulb fitment and type is: D2S
After a quick look on s2ki forum for a how to guide, it seemed pretty straight forward.
Although straight forward to replace the bulbs, it involved removing the front wheels and arch liner for complete access. This was ideal so a good glimpse can be had within this area.
Everything seemed to be intact, although the passenger side HID ballast had been replaced with a non genuine type. Most likely the original ballast went faulty at some point.
Although fully functional I would get this replaced with a genuine module sometime in the future.
The bulb replacement went well, the previous bulbs were a much higher colour temperature.
Most likely 5000 kelvin. The bulbs were a non branded type and most likely of poor quality.
Original Osram 4300 kelvin bulbs were installed for the factory illumination and appearance.
5000k Xenons Bulbs on the left removed and the osram 4300k Xenon bulbs installed on the right
Parts Purchased:
Part: Osram Original Xenarc 4150K D2S Xenon bulbs
Part Number: 66240 (x2)
Supplier: Ebay - Upgrade Bulbs
Services Used:
None
Resources used
S2ki forum Thread "HID Xenon Bulb Replacement Guide"
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/s2000-under-hood-22/di...
Task 20 - Paint Rear of Exhaust Silencer
16-06-2018
The rear sections of the exhaust silencers were looking rather flaky. Most of the OEM black paint has started to flake away over the years.
This is quite a eye sore when looking back at the car.
A quick coat of VHT (Very high temperature) paint was the quick solution here.
The rear of the silencers were quickly rubbed down to remove any flaky old paint and provide a good surface for the paint to adhere too.
A couple coats of the VHT matt black paint immediately improved the overall appearance.
Great result.
Before
After
Parts Purchased:
Part: Hycote VHT Matt Black Paint 400ml
Part Number: UK1001
Supplier: Ebay - Agrauto Seller
Services Used:
None
Resources used
None
Task 21 - Under Seal Arches
16-06-2018
Most of the factory underseal around the arches had worn away and with the car being stood around for a fair few years the suspension arms had become rather rusty.
With the arch liners having already been removed on the previous stages, it was a good opportunity to underseal the arches.
A quick hose down with my portable battery jet wash cleaned away alot of the dirt, grime and debris.
This provided a good clean surface for the underseal treatment to adhere too.
Having no mains power or compressor systems available to me, I needed a quick solution for application.
The aerosol version of the Dinitrol underbody sealant wax was ideal. The Dinitrol 4914.
Easy spray on provided hassle free application with a quick masking of areas that are not required to be coated.
The results were fantastic and certainly improved the appearance of the arches, the coating should provide many years of protection on our UK roads.
The arch liners were re-installed with new fastener clips.
(New fastener clips are highly recommended due to most of the original old ones crumbling away upon removal) A pack of x50 fasteners were purchased from the below seller and were excellent value and high quality.
Parts Purchased:
Part: Dinitrol 4941 Underbody Wax Sealant - Aerosol Spray On Type (500ml)
Part Number: 4941 (DA1996)
Supplier: Ebay - MPS trading
Part: Arch Liner Splash Guard trim Fastener Clips
Part Number: 91501-S04-003
Supplier: Ebay - byronix
Services Used:
None
Resources used
None
Task 22 - Honda Jazz Washer Jet Upgrade
16-06-2018
The windscreen washers on the s2000 from standard are pretty poor. They shoot two burst of water jets at the windshield and are pretty inefficient.
The Honda Jazz washer jets provide a mist spray and not only does it look great it also provides an excellent spray coverage of the windshield.
This upgrade is very common and usually performed on many Honda's of the 90's as it is literally a 5 minute plug and play job.
However, upon installing my set of Honda Jazz washer jets, it was found that the drivers washer jet was very weak.
Upon disassembling and inspecting all the hoses it was found that the one way valve on the driver's side jet had become faulty. The one way valve from Honda was over £15.00. I am all for using genuine parts, however this is alittle over priced for such a tiny and simple component.
It is an easy access component so a cheaper generic part is ideal.
Once the one way valve was purchased and installed, the jazz washer jets performed as they should.
Parts Purchased:
Part: Honda Jazz Washer Jet (genuine Honda)
Part Number: 76810-SEA-A01
Supplier: Ebay - Tegiwa
Part: One Way Valve for Windscreen Washer
Part Number: N/A (unbranded)
Supplier: Ebay - Autopower online
Services Used:
None
Resources used
Lings Honda Part Diagram Explosions
https://www.lingshondaparts.com/cars/car-parts.htm...
Task 23 - Brand New Wheel Nuts
16-06-2018
The final touch for the wheel area was to add a set of brand new wheel nuts. The original wheel nuts were in a very poor state. An attempt to wire brush them was unsuccessful.
A brand new set was purchased from a Honda dealer on eBay due to a special offer.
The size purchased was the 25mm height nuts.
(Honda also do the 30mm height which would stick out too much)
Once the wheels were ready to go on, the new nuts were installed with a hint of copper grease to the inner threads.
Parts Purchased:
Part: Honda Wheel Nuts 25mm Height Type (Genuine Honda)
Part Number: 90304-SA5-013
Supplier: Ebay - Crown Honda Bushey (Honda Dealer)
Services Used:
None
Resources used
None
Task 24 - Replacement Wheel Locking Nuts
16-06-2018
The original Honda wheel locking nuts currently on the car were really past their best.
The surface of most of the locks had completely rusted over. It would be a good time to have them replaced and avoiding that embarrassing situation where the wheel locks disintegrates when attempting to remove them.
A genuine good condition Honda lock set was found on eBay saving me a good amount from buying new.
All of the old nuts were removed successfully with no issues.
Parts Purchased:
Part: Honda Wheel Alloy Wheel Locks (Genuine Honda) (2nd Hand)
Part Number: 08W42-S1A-600
Supplier: Ebay - Private Seller
Services Used:
None
Resources used
None
Task 25 - Replacement Windscreen Wipers
16-06-2018
Another quick job was to replace the windscreen wipers, the current ones were pretty tired and were upgraded to the those flat aero type wipers by the previous owner.
Not being keen on the retro after market flat aero type unless originally fitted as standard, this is because the retro fit ones don't look great as they usually have a large lump where the wiper arm connects to it.
After a quick glance at original wiper sizes for the s2000, being 16" driver and 20" passenger a cheap set of Bosch super plus standard wipers were ordered.
Once fitted It I decided to fit the 20" wiper to the driver's side which provided a much cleaner sweep.
Parts Purchased:
Part: Bosch Super Plus Wiper Blades (pair)
Part Number: 16" and 20" Sizes
Supplier: Ebay - Parts_monster
Services Used:
None
Resources used
S2ki forum Thread "Wiper Sizes Guide"
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/uk-ireland-s2000-commu...
Task 26 - Handsfree Kit Solution
16-06-2018
I wanted a hands free kit in the s2000 but I did not want to change the standard original head unit. The s2000 featured the original Honda cassette head unit with its CD changer in the boot.
It is a very dated system but the CD changer and headunit operates perfectly.
I wanted to retain all of this but I needed the added feature of Bluetooth hands free for that odd telephone call within the car.
My brother shared a solution which he uses in his Honda Jazz.
The device is called "Supertooth Buddy" a simple small device which attaches and clips to the sun visor.
It has its own built in battery and pretty much a standalone unit with no hard wiring of any cables.
This was the perfect solution, easy to use, long lasting battery life, fantastic sound quality and great value of money.
Parts Purchased:
Part: Bluetooth Handsfree Kit
Part Number: Supertooth buddy
Supplier: Ebay - vodaphone store (special offer)
Services Used:
None
Resources used
None
Task 27 - Replace Dash Cluster Blanking Switch
16-06-2018
One of the dash blanking switch covers in the car was used to house a Clifford alarm system valet switch.
With the alarm system now being a Toad, this valet switch is no surplus to requirements.
The previous owner drilled a hole in this blanking switch to house the valet switch so this switch plate is now redundant.
A quick email to Holdcroft Honda for the part at a great price it was soon on order and arrived in great time.
A quick and easy replacement
Parts Purchased:
Part: Right Side Dash Cluster Blanking Switch Plate
Part Number: 77208-S2A-003ZA
Supplier: Holdcroft Honda
Email Contact: Gareth.rees@holdcroft.com
Services Used:
None
Resources used
None
Task 28 - Add Security Window Stickers
14-07-2018
With the alarm installed successfully at an earlier stage, the s2000 did not have any window security labels.
Security labels on the windows do act as a deterent so they do serve a purpose.
Due to the car not having a factory alarm originally (due to it being an early s2000), no factory secutiy labels were present on the windows.
The alarm installed is a Toad AI606 system and their included labels in my opinion were not very nice.
I looked at original Honda secutiy labels installed on the later s2000 models, they were subtle, promimnent and of course genuine Honda. haha! So I decieded to go for them.
They were easy to install on the inside rear corner of the windows. The window was cleaned using some IPA solution to ensure an oil and grease free surface before application.
Parts Purchased:
Part: Genuine Honda Security Window Labels x2
Part Number: 39885-S5A-G11
Supplier: Coxmotorparts
Web: www.coxmotorparts.co.uk
Services Used:
None
Resources used
None
Task 29 - New Tyres
15-07-2018
One of the more expensive jobs I have to do on the s2000 are tyres.
The rear tyres on the s2000 are getting extremely low on the inner edge, with the brand name of the tyre being a budget type it was more reason to get them changed.
The front tyres had some good thread left (around 4mm) but I thought it would be best to get a fresh new set on.
Various research into the best tyre for the s2000 spanned various brands but the one brand that came out as being a good all rounder was the Good Year Eagle F1 Asymmetric.
Now in its version 3 model this seemed a wise safe choice for price, comfort, confidence for that spirited drive and perhaps that rare track day.
I went for the OEM standard sizes:
Fronts: 215-45-R17 (XL load)
Rears: 245-40-R17 (XL load)
My local protyre garage are very good and a quick visit to their website, an order was placed for supply and fitting in the next couple days.
The rims were cleaned prior to fitting the new tyres, it was apparent that the existing tyres have been on the rims for quite some time. All tyres mounted well with no hidden issues with the rims.
The alignment will be performed separately at a later stage as these cars are notoriously known for the geo bolts to be seized up.
The new tyres provides the s2000 with a smooth drive and fantastic grip when pushed around the corners.
The good year Asymmetric 3 tyres are definitely highly recommended.
Parts Purchased:
Part: Rear Tyres 245/40R17 Size (Good Year Eagle F1 Asymmetric 3)
Part Number: Eagle F1 Asymmetric 3
Supplier: Protyre
Web: www.protyre.co.uk/
Part: Front Tyres 215/45R17 Size (Good Year Eagle F1 Asymmetric 3)
Part Number: Eagle F1 Asymmetric 3
Supplier: Protyre
Web: www.protyre.co.uk/
Services Used:
Protyre (Tyre Fitting Garage)
Tyres ordered via their online website
(Always check for discount/promo codes before checkout)
www.protyre.co.uk/
Resources used
None
Task 30 - Facelift s2000 Suspension Upgrade
20-08-2018
When the s2000 was at Performance Autoworks for the major clutch change and other service jobs, Rich mentioned that the rear left damper made a slight pattering sound when going over uneven roads.
The internal gas within the dampers can leak over time which causes this sound. The dampers become weaker hence upsetting the handling slightly.
He stated that I upgrade to a nice set of coilovers or a good second hand facelift s2000 suspension set when budget allows.
I was able to find a nice 2004 facelift suspension set on the s2ki forum.
Massive thanks to Grant on the s2ki forum, he supplied me the set at an amazing price
Upon receipt of the kit, it all looked good.
The suspension set was given a good clean and a quick coat of black hammerite paint to freshen it up
For the installation I wanted to give it a go myself, but I called up an old mechanic family friend to assist me.
I am really glad I had the help as there would be no way I could have performed this on my own.
The rear suspension was the hardest to fit, with the rear stabilizer bracket being a pain to re-install.
The rear lower control arms had to be really pushed down to able to remove the damper assembly.
There was alot of tension held within the rear sway bar.
Removing the rear left top suspension bolts was tricky due to it being underneath the fuel piping.
After several hours (5 hours to be exact) the suspension set was installed
After a quick test drive, the pattering was gone and being the face lifted version of the suspension set it feels much softer and the comfort levels have noticeably increased.
The handling has much improved and gives a much more inspired confidence to the handling of the car.
Parts Purchased:
Part: Facelift 2004-2009 Front/Rear Suspension Damper and Spring Assembly
Part Number: N/A
Supplier: Second hand Purchase (s2ki Forum)
Services Used:
Hometune Mechanic
Contact: Rody
Tel: 07831 196 494
(North London Area)
Resources used
None
Task 31 - s2000 Second Photo shoot
25-08-2018
The August bank holiday gave an opportunity to have a second photoshoot for the s2000.
This is how she stands presently.
I acquired a Honda s2000 last year after lusting after one of these for 20 years.
(ever since they were released)
In my current situation, and having sold my 1999 Prelude 2.2vti for personal reasons it was now or never to own one.
I am a loyal Honda fan, and have pretty much owned Honda's throughout my 20 year driving career, with a few exceptions.
(1999 - 2002) - 2nd driver on my dad's 1994 1.6 Toyota Carina E
(2002 - 2005) - My First Car: 1994 Honda Civic, 3 door, 1.3 Dx (D13B2)
(2005 - 2010) - 2000 Honda Civic, 2 door coupe, 1.6 SOHC (D16Y7)
(2010 - 2016) - 1999 Honda Prelude, 2 door coupe, 2.2 vti (H22A8 red top)
(2010 - 2014) - 2000 Seat Arosa, 3 door Hatch, 1.7 SDI diesel (daily commuter)
(2014 - present) - 2006 Honda Accord, 4 door saloon, 2.2 i-ctdi (N22A) Diesel
(Still currently in ownership - My daily commuter)
@ 198k miles with original clutch, timing chain, turbo and exhaust system
(2018 - present) - 1999 Honda s2000, 2 door convertible, 2 litre (F20C) - AP1
I've always tried to do most of the work on my car's myself throughout the years, and have learnt so much about cars in general. Not having a garage or driveway, it does however limit what I tackle though.
Due to their current prices, my budget could only allow for the pre-face version.
The s2000 is an early 1999 model, there are a few things that need addressing due to it being stood around for many years but overall it is in great condition.
It's going to make for an interesting project.
I thought I would share my experiences and the journey throughout my s2000 ownership. I have tried to document each task with as much detail as possible.
So beware, it's a long read which I hope you will enjoy.
I will keep this thread updated.
My s2000 journey begins.
The Purchase
04-04-2018
When they first came out back in 1999, I knew one day I had to have one. However, over the past several years their values have been steadily increasing with a facelift 2005 model now reaching around £13k.
It always seems true, when your after something nothing pops up and when you’re not they are always plentiful.
At the time, not many s2000’s were up for sale. It may be due to the time of year or just my bad luck.
I managed to view over 4 S2000's, even one from a Honda dealer which didn’t even go into reverse gear properly.
I realised that most S2000's out there are actually in quite poor condition. People tend to buy them, keep them for a year or so and then sell them on to gain from its increase in value.
With that, anything over 10k was over my budget. I then started to look at the older pre-facelift models.
I managed to find and bag one for a really cheap price due to it needing some work, however overall it is in great shape.
The body is in good condition and the car does feature original facelift version 2 alloys.
The seller was great guy and we managed to get a deal sorted, I paid a deposit and me and a friend picked it up a week later.
The driving experience is so different to any Honda I have driven, the rawness of the S2000 coupled with its superb gearbox and that 9k RPM limit engine makes you feel like you're in a racing car.
When you push that engine and work those gears the car just puts a smile on your face every time.
The previous owner has had the car standing for quite some time, the usual suspects need addressing.
This includes:
-Flaky rocker cover
-Brake discs and pads
-Seized rear callipers
-Very slight rust appearing on the lower rear quarter of the side sill
-Clutch is slightly worn
-Will need a fresh service (all fluids)
No plans for any major modifications, the car will be more of a project restoration with the odd genuine OEM accessory upgrade.
Shortly after purchase on the 04-04-18, the work began on project 2000.
I had a good look over the car and created a list of the areas that needed addressing.
This list was quite extensive but I began with the basics first.
Task 1 - Alarm Install
14-04-2018
The first task on the agenda was to install a CAT 1 alarm system, due to the s2000 being a pre 2001 model it only came with a factory immobilizer with central locking. No factory alarm system was present.
The system I selected was a Toad AI606 system, previously used on my 1999 Honda Prelude and proved to be a reliable easy to use simple system. There was only one person in my mind to have this installed.
This was Rakesh from RD electrics, he installed the same system on my Prelude and the craftsmanship and quality of his work was top notch.
Rakesh did a fantastic job and I can't recommend him enough, the install was straight forward and went smoothly.
Due to the age of the car, all door pin switches were also removed and cleaned to avoid the alarm going off accidently. The door pin switches had some slight corrosion but all cleaned up well with their connectors all intact and in excellent condition.
Parts Purchased:
Part: Alarm System Kit
Part Number: TOAD AI606
Supplier: Supplied by Rakesh
Services Used:
R&D Electrics (Alarm Install Services)
Contact: Rakesh
Mobile: 077395-40000
Email: rakesh6466@sky.com
https://en-gb.facebook.com/fonz6466/
Resources used
None
Task 2 - Basic Oil Service
14-04-2018
The next task was to perform a basic service on the s2000, this was performed straight after the alarm install.
All filters used were genuine Honda.
This included:
-Oil change using 5w 40 (Oil chosen was the Motul 5w/40 x-cess)
-Oil filter
-Air filter
-Pollen filter
-Spark Plugs
The other fluids, i.e, Coolant, Transmission, Diff, Brake and Clutch will be performed later.
Changing the oil on the s2000 was surprising quite easy, the oil filter is easily accessible with the air filter being right in front of the engine bay within a large air box.
The pollen filter is located under the front windshield scuttle panel and was a breeze to change over.
Replacing the spark plugs were relatively easy, the existing spark plugs looked in good condition and showed that the engine has been performing ok. Spark plugs were tighten using the revised torque specifications.
I decided to go for the iridium type spark plugs instead of the platinum type for better longevity.
Overall a very pleasant and enjoyable task, being classic Honda design everything was easily accessible.
Parts Purchased
Part: Engine Oil (Motul 5w/50 x-cess)
Part Number: N/A
Supplier: Tegiwa
Part: Engine Oil Filter (Genuine Honda) (Also included sump drain washer)
Part Number: 15400-PCX-004
Supplier: August Motor Honda via their ebay shop
(Balmer Lawn Group)
Part: Air Filter (Genuine Honda)
Part Number: 17220-PCX-003
Supplier: August Motor Honda via their ebay shop
(Balmer Lawn Group)
Part: Pollen Filter (Genuine Honda)
Part Number: 79831-S2A-003
Supplier: August Motor Honda via their ebay shop
(Balmer Lawn Group)
Part: NGK Spark Plugs (Iridium)
Part Number: IFR7G-11KS
Supplier: Tegiwa
Services Used:
None
Resources used
Oil Change
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/s2000-under-hood-22/di...
Spark Plug Change
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/s2000-under-hood-22/sp...
Air filter Change
https://howtune.com/articles/97-replace-the-air-fi...
You Tube Video: Pollen filter change
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jHylusRKJV4
Task 3 - Engine Bay Deep Clean
22-04-2018
The next task after the basic service was to perform a deep clean on the engine bay.
Initially the engine bay wasn't too bad but there were definite signs that the car had been sat around for a long while. It would also be a good opportunity to have a good in-depth view around the engine bay to see if anything required addressing.
I began by removing the battery and hoovering up all the debris in that corner, the process consisted of a bottled spray gun filled with fairy liquid and water, a tooth brush and an old unused paint brush.
Whilst I was around the battery area, I unbolted both grounding cables and wire brushed them to remove all the corrosion I could.
The air box was also removed and all chassis sections inspected and cleaned.
Due to the age of the car there are areas, fixtures and fittings that have rusted slightly but overall it is a vast improvement to the overall look of the engine bay.
The rocker cover will be replaced with a newly refurbished one which is on order and will be fitted very soon.
Parts Purchased
None
Services Used:
None
Resources used
None
Task 4 - Front Door Speaker Check & Revert Back To Originals
05-05-2018
During a drive I noticed that the sound output from the passenger side speaker became slightly intermittent on certain occasions, mainly during uneven road surfaces.
A quick peer into the speaker grills reveal that the original speakers have been replaced by some JBL types.
Due to this upgrade and the intermittent sound issue I was concerned that the DIY speaker upgrade from the previous owner may have been performed poorly.
The speakers will be reverted back to originals, however the original speakers for this model of s2000 were the paper cone type. These seem hard to come by, therefore the later blue coned type speakers were purchased as these are plentiful on the 2nd hand market and perform much better.
A good condition pair of later spec blue coned original s2000 speakers were purchased.
The door cards were swiftly removed and the quality of the JBL speaker install became apparent. The JBL speakers were fitted to the original Honda speaker baskets which was quite impressive. The original speaker loom and connectors were all still intact which was a relief. The previous owner connected the JBl speakers to the original connectors using modified spade connectors hence the poor contact. All this was poorly wrapped generously with electrical tape.
With all that removed, the install of the original s2000 speakers was clean and swift, with connectors being cleaned up and some multipurpose grease added to the connector contacts to prevent any corrosion.
The rest of the door assembly was inspected with no other areas having been touched or modified. Even the original door sheet membrane still intact and untouched.
The sound from the original speakers are surprisingly good and very happy with the results.
Speaker Purchased
Door Card Removed Showing JBL Speaker Setup
Poor Quality of Wiring Connection but Original Connector and Loom Intact and not modified
Original Speakers Installed
Parts Purchased
Part: Original s2000 Speakers
Part Number: N/A
Supplier: Ebay Purchase (2nd Hand)
Services Used:
None
Resources used
None
Task 5 - Modifry Bracket Phone Holder
05-05-2018
One of problems with the s2000 in today's modern age is that there are not many options or suitable places within the cabin to mount your mobile phone.
With various online searches there was always one brand/design that was mentioned.
This design came from a company based in the states and goes by the name of Modifry.
Bob at Modifry specially designed a bracket mount which installs on the side of the dash cluster.
The item is quite pricey (being in the uk) for a bit of metal but this seemed to be the perfect solution to all s2000 owners and I can see why it is so popular.
With the product coming from the states, it does mean expensive shipping costs, slightly longer shipping time and the potential of customs duty tax being charged upon entering the UK.
To my amazement, the package came within 5 days and no duty was charged
Upon opening the package it came with some instructions and all pieces individually wrapped in their plastic bags. I also ordered their universal phone holder as it attaches neatly to the bracket using the supplied screws.
The install was pretty straight forward with only the cutting of the excess plastic trim being quite tricky due to the fear of slipping and damaging the interior. Taking it slow with a sharp craft knife was the key here and in no time the trim was neatly cut.
If the bracket was ever removed in the future, none of the cut trim will be seen when re-assembled.
The bracket and phone holder was soon attached, extra phone grippers were also purchased to further hold the phone in its cradle - I would highly recommend them if your phone is as big or bigger than a Samsung Galaxy S6.
Overall a great bit of kit, the cradle and bracket are stable at high speeds and on rough roads. It keeps the phone in place and does not move around.
There are a few issues that I have found:
-The phone holder does sit quite low and on the occasional gear change you can hit the phone/bracket assembly.
-If you have the phone charging, the cable exits on the bottom of my phone and therefore will hinder your gear changing.
-Due to the phones position when mounted, you can get reflection/glare from the phone screen, but twisting the phone slightly towards the driver can eliminate this.
However, despite these issues it is nice to have a place to mount your phone when driving the s2000 albeit slightly on the pricey side.
The Kit
Install
Finished
Parts Purchased
Part: Modifry Dash Bracket
Part Number: N/A
Supplier: Modifry
Web: www.modifry.com
Part: Universal Phone Holder
Part Number: N/A
Supplier: Modifry
Web: www.modifry.com
Part: Additional Phone Grippers for Phone Holder
Part Number: N/A
Supplier: Modifry
Web: www.modifry.com
Services Used:
None
Resources used
DIYguys You tube Video (Modifry Bracket Install Guide)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E2sjoCC6c4o
Task 6 - Interior Deep Clean
05-05-2018
Whilst staying within the interior, the next task was to perform a deep clean of the interior. Being a convertible, the interior would have been exposed to lots of dirt and grime over the years.
The job began by removing all the top layer carpets and hoovering the main carpets thoroughly, this included all hard to reach areas behind and under the seats.
After the carpets were hoovered, they were scrubbed using an interior type brush and autoglym interior shampoo. The results from this was fresher looking and smelling carpets.
The next stage was to clean the dash cluster, all the buttons were individually cleaned using autoglym interior shampoo and a toothbrush. Removing all dirt and grime around each button.
The results were shockingly good, with the dash cluster looking really fresh and clean, the vents were also cleaned using a detailing brush.
The stereo system was mainly untouched and in fabulous condition with the original Honda cassette stereo still in place, further inspection reveals that the stereo has never been removed. No marks or scratches are present anywhere around the fascia or surround trim panels. The original CD changer is still in the boot and in full operational order.
The old tax disc holder was still present and was removed, the adhesive remains cleaned using IPA.
Both seats were brushed and megauries leather treatment was applied to them to help restore its texture and finish.
Parts Purchased
None
Services Used:
None
Resources used
None
Task 7 - Soft Top Striker Modification
12-05-2018
At higher motorway speeds, my s2000's roof tends to leak some wind noise.
The soft top roof on my s2000 had been replaced by the previous owner so it is not the original one, however upon reading a few threads there is a modification that can be performed to help reduce the wind noise from a roof that does not sit 100% flush with the windshield edge.
The OEM solution is to install the hardtop strikers, these are similar to the soft top striker plates but are much thicker. Priced at around £40 ish each, they are quite pricey.
I thought I would give the washer modification a try considering it is a quick and cheap solution.
The relevant interior trim all unclipped with ease with the help of "DIYguys" fantastic video.
The M6 washers (x2 per screw) and longer M6 machine screw were fitted and the soft top strikers re-installed.
As a result, the soft top strikers clamps the roof much tighter, on a road test the wind noise has pretty much been eliminated.
A fantastic result.
This solution may not work and will depend on how worn out your roof or existing strikers are but it is highly worth trying before purchasing the hard top striker versions.
Parts Purchased
Part: M6 x25mm Machine Screw with (1mm pitch thread)
Part Number: M6x25
Supplier: KaysFast1 (via their ebay store)
Web: www.ebay.co.uk
Part: M6 Form C Washer
Part Number: M6 Washers
Supplier: KaysFast1 (via their ebay store)
Web: www.ebay.co.uk
Services Used:
None
Resources used
DIY guys youtube video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=idoBp0KzKkU
Task 8 - Hard Top Brackets Installation
19-05-2018
One of the items on my wish list for the s2000 is a hardtop roof.
I was unfortunate to find a GT version of the s2000 that already came with a hardtop roof.
However, long before owning an s2000 I was able to find a set of hardtop roof brackets. They popped up on ebay at a great price so I snapped them up.
The thought here, if I didn't buy an s2000 they could be sold on pretty easily.
By installing the hardtop brackets now it would be ready for a hardtop if one popped up second hand in the future.
I studied the Honda hard top instructions manual and the fitting of the brackets seem relatively straight forward.
The kit I purchased came with the modified plastic trim sections with the hardtop version brushes, I began by removing the various trim pieces from behind the front seats.
Then removing the quarter panel plastic trim pieces.
This exposed the inner metal sections where the brackets are to be fitted.
The install was quick and simple along with re-assembly.
It would be much easier if the seats were removed although I didn't have that luxury due to performing car work on a side street.
My s2000 is an early model and therefore does not have the rear heated window wiring and loom.
This can be added later if I desire, perhaps if a hardtop is purchased I will look into purchasing the rear heater demister loom and switch.
A great result and now ready for a hardtop
Parts Purchased
Part: Right Hardtop Body Catcher
Part Number: n/a
Supplier: Ebay (2nd hand)
Web: www.ebay.co.uk
Part: Left Hardtop Body Catcher
Part Number: n/a
Supplier: Ebay (2nd hand)
Web: www.ebay.co.uk
Part: Right Side Hardtop Version Plastic Trim Piece
Part Number: n/a
Supplier: Ebay (2nd hand)
Web: www.ebay.co.uk
Part: Left Side Hardtop Version Plastic Trim Piece
Part Number: n/a
Supplier: Ebay (2nd hand)
Web: www.ebay.co.uk
Services Used:
None
Resources used
Honda Instructions Manual for Hardtop Installation
https://www.handa-accessories.com/s2000/s2k2top.pd...
Task 9 - Deep Clean Boot/Trunk
19-05-2018
The next area that required a good clean and check was the boot area.
This would allow me to check all aspects of the boot, including the spare tyre. It also allowed me to check the base of the boot to see if any standing water was present underneath the tool box section.
Tasks included
-Remove spare tyre
-Check spare tyre condition and pump up to recommend pressure
-Check spare tyre recess and clean as required
-Clean all boot oem tools and check condition and function of car jack
-Hoover and clean all interior trim pieces
-Remove rubber boot seal on top edge and check of rust or broken paint
(Touch up as required)
Once the spare wheel was removed, I had a good look through into the rear of the car and it all seemed pretty clean.
No signs of any water leaks which meant the hood water drains were ok and no water was entering the boot area.
Parts Purchased
None
Services Used:
None
Resources used
None
Task 10 - Amber Side Lights
19-05-2018
I have always liked the look of amber side lights, so this gave me an opportunity to swap over the 501 capless side bulbs in the headlamps with osram amber versions.
The install was rather tricky due to limited access. The arch liners had to be completely peeled away to gain access to the rear of the headlamp.
Parts Purchased:
Part: Osram Amber 501 Capless Bulbs
Part Number: xxxxxxxx
Supplier: Amazon
Web: www.Amazon.co.uk
Services Used:
None
Resources used
S2ki Forum thread
Xenon bulb headlight replacement Guide
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/s2000-under-hood-22/di...
Task 11 - Throttle Body , IACV, MAP Sensor and PCV Valve Clean
(Also Map Sensor Bracket Strap Install)
30-05-2018
Most s2000's suffer from the rpm rev dip issue usually upon a blip of the throttle. According to threads and other s2000 owners this is a common issue with s2000's. The main culprit is usually the IACV (intake air control valve) this is quite an expensive component but usually with a good clean you can resolve the issue. I also intend to clean out a few other components too.
To begin, the negative battery terminal was disconnected.
IACV Valve
Again, using DIYguys excellent youtube video guide, the process was straight forward. I actually removed the component by disconnecting the coolant hose feeds and lifting it away. I found it alot easier to clean the IACV valve with the component out. Once the component was out there was significant carbon build up inside the chambers.
A good clean with a cotton ear bud and brake cleaner the IACV valve was looking as good as new. The motor assembly was also removed which allowed the internal flap to be properly cleaned, I also ensured this flap rotated smoothly.
MAP sensor and PCV valve
Whilst the IACV was out the MAP sensor and PCV valve was also cleaned.
The PCV valve was removed from the rocker cover and sprayed with brake cleaner. With a good shake of the PCV valve the rattle noise was still present within the component which indicates the PCV valve is in good working order. The MAP sensor was cleaned with CRC spray due to being a much sensitive component. It is not recommended to clean the MAP sensor with brake cleaner.
Throttle Body
Another task on the agenda was to clean the throttle body, from inspecting the fixings it is apparent that the throttle body has never been removed or cleaned. The process was relatively easy with just a few hoses being a little tricky to remove due to its age and never being touched.
Once removed the butterfly was inspected, the amount of carbon build up was quite significant.
A thorough clean with brake cleaner including all the ports was performed. The internals of the throttle body was looking fantastic.
Vtec Solenoid
The last task was to remove, inspect and clean the vtec solenoid. Easy access being at the front side of the engine block, removal consisted of three bolts so it was a breeze to remove.
Once removed, it was inspected, the chamber with the mesh in front had no metallic debris which is an excellent sign and proves no metal shavings or debris have been floating around the engine for any reason.
The part looked in excellent shape, a quick clean using brake cleaner it was re-installed back in no time. All surrounding areas of the vtec solenoid was cleaned also.
Re-assembly and Map Sensor bracket Strap Install
Once I was happy that the IACV, PCV valve, throttle body and MAP sensor was cleaned, the re-assembly process began. Everything all went back together as easy as they were to remove.
The MAP sensor bracket strap was also purchased and installed.
This was a Honda TSB (technical service bulletin) which resolved a potential issue of hesitation upon hard acceleration. The root cause was down to the MAP sensor electrical connector becoming loose. The strap ensures the connector is fully secured with no movement.
I didn't experience this issue but I thought it would be good practice to eliminate the possibility of it ever occurring.
Once everything was back together, the battery was re-connected and DIYguys ECU relearn procedure was performed.
The results were fantastic, the throttle response was alot smoother and the rev dip was almost but eliminated. Due to the nature of the s2000 it will probably return but for now the efforts above are well worth it.
Parts Purchased
Part: MAP Sensor Bracket Strap
Part Number: 32125PCX003
Supplier: Holdcroft Honda
Email Contact: Gareth@HH.com
Part: Brake Cleaner
Part Number: N/A
Supplier: Eurocarparts
Web: www.eurocarparts.com
Part: CRC Electrical Contact Cleaner
Part Number: N/A
Supplier: Ebay
Web: www.ebay.co.uk
Services Used:
None
Resources used
DIY Guys IACV Cleaning guide
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xWtNORKhOJ0
DIY Guys ECU relearn procedure
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dUMDzCvONTs
Task 12 - Four Piece Genuine Honda Mats Installation
31-05-2018
The interior of the s2000 is generally a lovely place to be. However the only item in the cabin that lets it down are the previous owners mat set. They seem to well used and an aftermarket type.
Honda still offers the JDM type 4 piece mat set, pretty pricey but in my opinion well worth it.
I decided to get the black set for a nice contrast against the red main carpet and seats.
Upon installation, it was soon discovered that due to my s2000 being an early model the fixings for this type of mat set do not exist.
However, due to the placement and design of the mat set, which utilizes a special bracket which sits over the chassis cross member this helps to keep the mat set in place without any modification.
Once installed they look fantastic.
A worthy upgrade to any s2000 interior.
Parts Purchased:
Part: Honda 4 Piece Mat Set
Part Number: 08P16S2A510A
Supplier: Coxmotorparts
Web: www.coxmotorparts.co.uk
Services Used:
None
Resources used
S2ki forum Thread "mats install"
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/uk-ireland-s2000-commu...
Task 13 - Water Leak into Drivers Foot well
31-05-2018
A couple days this week saw some heavy rainfall and whilst installing the mat set in the previous task it was noticed that the main carpet on the driver's side foot well was quite wet.
This was quite a concern as water leaking into the cabin is never a good thing. Moisture from the water can cause bad smells, invoke rust and cause mould and bacteria growth if left unnoticed.
I began to look online to see if anyone experienced a similar issue, most water leak cases for the s2000 occurs on poor soft top hood drainage which results in water leaks in the boot. However I did stumble across a thread on s2ki where an individual investigated the same problem that I was experiencing.
The root cause was the water seal gasket on the rubber drainage trim on the A-pillar. The gasket directs the water flow outwards into the door recess areas. With this particular gasket being worn away from its position it would allow water to flow directly downwards and into the area behind the bonnet release catch. See images below, notice that the gasket has moved away from its adhesive location and allow water to pass by.
This rubber trim piece seems to be a complete part which fits the entire windshield. Replacing it would either be quite expensive and or a pain to remove and replace.
In its current state the trim piece is still in good condition so it I decided to go down the repair route.
The old gasket section was removed and its area fully cleaned.
In order to replace this gasket, silicon sealant was used. This provided a good high quality long lasting reliable seal. This was applied on the same location as the old gasket, the trim piece was re-installed with the silicon left to cure.
So far no water has leaked into the cabin, a fantastic result.
Parts Purchased:
Part: Dow Corning Clear Silicon Sealant 78g
Part Number: N/A
Supplier: Ebay - Sealants and Tools Direct
Services Used:
None
Resources used
S2ki forum Thread "Water leak investigation"
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/s2000-under-hood-22/wa...
Task 14 - S2000 First Photo Shoot
02-06-2018
After the above tasks, there was an opportunity to perform a quick photo shoot of the s2000.
We found some lovely roads in Hertfordshire for a great drive and some photos.
Task 15 - Fit New Centre Caps to Wheels
03-06-2018
With the s2000 having facelift v2 wheels they came with unofficial centre caps which did not do the wheels any justice.
I wanted the original Honda centre caps but for the face lifted wheels they were quite pricey. Although they were still available to purchase from Honda.
I decided to go for them and once installed, it totally transformed the look of the wheel.
Something so simple but yet have a great impact of the aesthetic of a wheel.
Parts Purchased:
Part: Genuine Honda Centre Cap x4 (for facelifted wheels)
Part Number: 44732-S2A-921
Supplier: Htune
Web: www.Htune.com
Services Used:
None
Resources used
None
Task 16 - Treat all Roof/Door/Boot Seals with Shin-Etsui Silicon Grease
03-06-2018
One of the most recommended tasks for any s2000 owner is to treat all rubber seals with the Honda Shin Etsui grease.
This is a relatively simple task and just involves working the grease into the rubber seals, this moistens up the rubber and stops it from drying out which can lead to poor sealing and water leaking.
All seals were treated including:
-All roof seals
-Apillar seals
-Door seals
-Boot seals
-Front edge Bonnet seal
Parts Purchased:
Part: Hond Shin Etsui Grease
Part Number: 087989013
Supplier: Coxmotorparts
Web: www.coxmotorparts.co.uk
Services Used:
None
Resources used
None
Task 17 - Clutch Change/Valve Clearances/Brake Overhaul & Remaining Fluids Change
@ Performance Autoworks
04-06-2018
One of the main issues with the s2000 was the clutch. Having done approx 87k miles and with it being an early s2000 the clutch had seen better days.
There was also the early technical service bulletin (TSB) present on my s2000 called clutch buzz.
The clutch operation would be fine with only a buzzing sound present when decelerating, most s2000 owners with the issue tend to live with it until the time a clutch change is required.
This occurs when decelerating from 2nd or 3rd gear, a buzzing sound would be present.
The root cause of this were the friction disc plate springs vibrating at high rotational speeds.
I thought it would be an ideal time to get the clutch replaced with the revised genuine part, Rich also advised that the clutch release fork should also be replaced as these can significantly wear too.
Along with the clutch I also decided to get Performance Autoworks to perform a complete brake overhaul. With the car having sat around for many years, the callipers, mainly the rears were seized on and the discs were pretty rusted, they weren't the best brand either being pajid. The brake fluid was near enough a brown colour too.
Another TSB on my s2000 was the rear axle nut. This involved the current axle nut torque setting not being sufficient/tight enough. The results from this would be a clicking sound at low speeds.
Thankfully my s2000 did not have this issue but I thought it would be a good idea to get the axle nuts torque to the revised settings.
Valve clearances are very important on the F20 engine, this was on the agenda including fitting of a new refurbed rocker and spark plug cover refurbed by "spooner restorations".
I also included brand new genuine Honda gaskets and spark plug washer seals.
I also decided to get Rich at Performance Autoworks to perform other little jobs below
Including the above:
Major Re-work
-Replace clutch and fork
-Fit new rocker cover including new gaskets/seals and top rocker washers
-Adjust Valve clearances
-Check valve retainers for cracks (cracks can be caused by over revving)
-Check and if required tighten up rear axle nuts (TSB)
-Replace front/rear callipers
-Replace front rear brake discs and pads
Remaining Fluids Change
-Flush and replace coolant
-Flush and replace brake fluid
-Flush and replace clutch fluid
-Flush and replace transmission fluid - MTF3
-Flush and replace rear differential fluid
Other Work
-Replace a missing heat shield fastening bolt
-Replace firewall brake pipe holders.
Overall the re-work above went well, Rich at Performance Autoworks did have a little trouble with one of the main sub frame bolts which can be pretty troublesome. However it came out without any major trouble.
Quite amazing despite the year of the car and with it being standing outside for many years.
The new clutch feels amazing, a lovely soft feel and with the transmission fluid replaced the shift action now feels incredible. Slots into all gears smoothly and is a joy to use.
Original clutch worn down to its rivets.
Parts Purchased:
Part: Genuine Honda Clutch Kit (3 piece)
Part Number: 22105-PCX-325
Part: Genuine Honda Clutch Release Fork
Part Number: 08CLA-G01-6S0
Part: Genuine Honda Front Brake Discs
Part Number: 45251-S2A-000
Part: Genuine Honda Rear Brake Discs
Part Number: 42510-S2A-000
Part: Genuine Honda Front Brake Pads
Part Number: 45022-S2A-E51
Part: Genuine Honda Rear Brake Pads
Part Number: 06430-S2A-E50
Part: Front Brake Calipers (Pair)
Part Number: BCA4714 (Left) BCA4715 (Right)
Part: Rear Brake Callipers (Pair)
Part Number: BCA4726 (Left) BCA4727 (Right)
Part: Genuine Honda HYpoid HG0 Diff Fluid (x1 litre)
Part Number: 08294-P99-01HE
Part: Genuine Honda Type 2 Coolant (x5 litres)
Part Number: 22820-PCY-000
Part: Genuine Honda MTF3 Fluid (x2 litres)
Part Number: 082679-990-2HE
Part: Castrol React Brake Fluid (x2 litres)
Part Number: Castrol React
Part: Genuine Honda Map Sensor Bracket Strap
Part Number: 32125-PCX-003
Part: Genuine Honda Firewall Brake Line Clips
Part Number: 46396-S84-A01
Part: Genuine Honda Rocker Cover Gasket Kit
Part Number: 12040-PCX-305
Part: Genuine Honda Spark Plug Seals
Part Number: 12342-PCX-004
Services Used:
Performance Autoworks (Fairford/Gloucestershire GL7 4BX)
Contact: Richard Voaden
Tel: 01285 711 733
Email: info@performance-autoworks.co.uk
https://www.facebook.com/pages/Performance-Autowor...
Spooner Restorations
Contact: Paul Flaxton
Tel: 07515881784
Email: paulflaxton@googlemail.com
http://www.spoonerrestorations.co.uk
Resources used
None
Task 18 - Brake Calliper Carrier Paint
16-06-2018
After the major brake overhaul at Performance Autoworks the calliper carriers needed a refresh against the newly refurbished brake callipers.
Factory silver was the obvious choice, removing the calliper carrier and having them sent off for powder coating was the ideal way to go.
Unfortunately my home setup won't allow the car to be left on axle stands whilst this occurs. So this was done the old fashioned way.
A quick wire brush to the carriers and a paint brush application of silver Hammerite paint.
All 4 calliper carriers were done very quickly and with pretty good results.
Parts Purchased:
Part: Silver Hammerite Paint
Part Number: N/A
Supplier: Homebase (Any DIY Store)
Services Used:
None
Resources used
None
Task 19 - Xenon Bulb Replacement
16-06-2018
The next task was to replace the passenger side front non working xenon low beam headlight.
The front low beams of the s2000 feature xenon HID lighting from the factory.
The bulb fitment and type is: D2S
After a quick look on s2ki forum for a how to guide, it seemed pretty straight forward.
Although straight forward to replace the bulbs, it involved removing the front wheels and arch liner for complete access. This was ideal so a good glimpse can be had within this area.
Everything seemed to be intact, although the passenger side HID ballast had been replaced with a non genuine type. Most likely the original ballast went faulty at some point.
Although fully functional I would get this replaced with a genuine module sometime in the future.
The bulb replacement went well, the previous bulbs were a much higher colour temperature.
Most likely 5000 kelvin. The bulbs were a non branded type and most likely of poor quality.
Original Osram 4300 kelvin bulbs were installed for the factory illumination and appearance.
5000k Xenons Bulbs on the left removed and the osram 4300k Xenon bulbs installed on the right
Parts Purchased:
Part: Osram Original Xenarc 4150K D2S Xenon bulbs
Part Number: 66240 (x2)
Supplier: Ebay - Upgrade Bulbs
Services Used:
None
Resources used
S2ki forum Thread "HID Xenon Bulb Replacement Guide"
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/s2000-under-hood-22/di...
Task 20 - Paint Rear of Exhaust Silencer
16-06-2018
The rear sections of the exhaust silencers were looking rather flaky. Most of the OEM black paint has started to flake away over the years.
This is quite a eye sore when looking back at the car.
A quick coat of VHT (Very high temperature) paint was the quick solution here.
The rear of the silencers were quickly rubbed down to remove any flaky old paint and provide a good surface for the paint to adhere too.
A couple coats of the VHT matt black paint immediately improved the overall appearance.
Great result.
Before
After
Parts Purchased:
Part: Hycote VHT Matt Black Paint 400ml
Part Number: UK1001
Supplier: Ebay - Agrauto Seller
Services Used:
None
Resources used
None
Task 21 - Under Seal Arches
16-06-2018
Most of the factory underseal around the arches had worn away and with the car being stood around for a fair few years the suspension arms had become rather rusty.
With the arch liners having already been removed on the previous stages, it was a good opportunity to underseal the arches.
A quick hose down with my portable battery jet wash cleaned away alot of the dirt, grime and debris.
This provided a good clean surface for the underseal treatment to adhere too.
Having no mains power or compressor systems available to me, I needed a quick solution for application.
The aerosol version of the Dinitrol underbody sealant wax was ideal. The Dinitrol 4914.
Easy spray on provided hassle free application with a quick masking of areas that are not required to be coated.
The results were fantastic and certainly improved the appearance of the arches, the coating should provide many years of protection on our UK roads.
The arch liners were re-installed with new fastener clips.
(New fastener clips are highly recommended due to most of the original old ones crumbling away upon removal) A pack of x50 fasteners were purchased from the below seller and were excellent value and high quality.
Parts Purchased:
Part: Dinitrol 4941 Underbody Wax Sealant - Aerosol Spray On Type (500ml)
Part Number: 4941 (DA1996)
Supplier: Ebay - MPS trading
Part: Arch Liner Splash Guard trim Fastener Clips
Part Number: 91501-S04-003
Supplier: Ebay - byronix
Services Used:
None
Resources used
None
Task 22 - Honda Jazz Washer Jet Upgrade
16-06-2018
The windscreen washers on the s2000 from standard are pretty poor. They shoot two burst of water jets at the windshield and are pretty inefficient.
The Honda Jazz washer jets provide a mist spray and not only does it look great it also provides an excellent spray coverage of the windshield.
This upgrade is very common and usually performed on many Honda's of the 90's as it is literally a 5 minute plug and play job.
However, upon installing my set of Honda Jazz washer jets, it was found that the drivers washer jet was very weak.
Upon disassembling and inspecting all the hoses it was found that the one way valve on the driver's side jet had become faulty. The one way valve from Honda was over £15.00. I am all for using genuine parts, however this is alittle over priced for such a tiny and simple component.
It is an easy access component so a cheaper generic part is ideal.
Once the one way valve was purchased and installed, the jazz washer jets performed as they should.
Parts Purchased:
Part: Honda Jazz Washer Jet (genuine Honda)
Part Number: 76810-SEA-A01
Supplier: Ebay - Tegiwa
Part: One Way Valve for Windscreen Washer
Part Number: N/A (unbranded)
Supplier: Ebay - Autopower online
Services Used:
None
Resources used
Lings Honda Part Diagram Explosions
https://www.lingshondaparts.com/cars/car-parts.htm...
Task 23 - Brand New Wheel Nuts
16-06-2018
The final touch for the wheel area was to add a set of brand new wheel nuts. The original wheel nuts were in a very poor state. An attempt to wire brush them was unsuccessful.
A brand new set was purchased from a Honda dealer on eBay due to a special offer.
The size purchased was the 25mm height nuts.
(Honda also do the 30mm height which would stick out too much)
Once the wheels were ready to go on, the new nuts were installed with a hint of copper grease to the inner threads.
Parts Purchased:
Part: Honda Wheel Nuts 25mm Height Type (Genuine Honda)
Part Number: 90304-SA5-013
Supplier: Ebay - Crown Honda Bushey (Honda Dealer)
Services Used:
None
Resources used
None
Task 24 - Replacement Wheel Locking Nuts
16-06-2018
The original Honda wheel locking nuts currently on the car were really past their best.
The surface of most of the locks had completely rusted over. It would be a good time to have them replaced and avoiding that embarrassing situation where the wheel locks disintegrates when attempting to remove them.
A genuine good condition Honda lock set was found on eBay saving me a good amount from buying new.
All of the old nuts were removed successfully with no issues.
Parts Purchased:
Part: Honda Wheel Alloy Wheel Locks (Genuine Honda) (2nd Hand)
Part Number: 08W42-S1A-600
Supplier: Ebay - Private Seller
Services Used:
None
Resources used
None
Task 25 - Replacement Windscreen Wipers
16-06-2018
Another quick job was to replace the windscreen wipers, the current ones were pretty tired and were upgraded to the those flat aero type wipers by the previous owner.
Not being keen on the retro after market flat aero type unless originally fitted as standard, this is because the retro fit ones don't look great as they usually have a large lump where the wiper arm connects to it.
After a quick glance at original wiper sizes for the s2000, being 16" driver and 20" passenger a cheap set of Bosch super plus standard wipers were ordered.
Once fitted It I decided to fit the 20" wiper to the driver's side which provided a much cleaner sweep.
Parts Purchased:
Part: Bosch Super Plus Wiper Blades (pair)
Part Number: 16" and 20" Sizes
Supplier: Ebay - Parts_monster
Services Used:
None
Resources used
S2ki forum Thread "Wiper Sizes Guide"
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/uk-ireland-s2000-commu...
Task 26 - Handsfree Kit Solution
16-06-2018
I wanted a hands free kit in the s2000 but I did not want to change the standard original head unit. The s2000 featured the original Honda cassette head unit with its CD changer in the boot.
It is a very dated system but the CD changer and headunit operates perfectly.
I wanted to retain all of this but I needed the added feature of Bluetooth hands free for that odd telephone call within the car.
My brother shared a solution which he uses in his Honda Jazz.
The device is called "Supertooth Buddy" a simple small device which attaches and clips to the sun visor.
It has its own built in battery and pretty much a standalone unit with no hard wiring of any cables.
This was the perfect solution, easy to use, long lasting battery life, fantastic sound quality and great value of money.
Parts Purchased:
Part: Bluetooth Handsfree Kit
Part Number: Supertooth buddy
Supplier: Ebay - vodaphone store (special offer)
Services Used:
None
Resources used
None
Task 27 - Replace Dash Cluster Blanking Switch
16-06-2018
One of the dash blanking switch covers in the car was used to house a Clifford alarm system valet switch.
With the alarm system now being a Toad, this valet switch is no surplus to requirements.
The previous owner drilled a hole in this blanking switch to house the valet switch so this switch plate is now redundant.
A quick email to Holdcroft Honda for the part at a great price it was soon on order and arrived in great time.
A quick and easy replacement
Parts Purchased:
Part: Right Side Dash Cluster Blanking Switch Plate
Part Number: 77208-S2A-003ZA
Supplier: Holdcroft Honda
Email Contact: Gareth.rees@holdcroft.com
Services Used:
None
Resources used
None
Task 28 - Add Security Window Stickers
14-07-2018
With the alarm installed successfully at an earlier stage, the s2000 did not have any window security labels.
Security labels on the windows do act as a deterent so they do serve a purpose.
Due to the car not having a factory alarm originally (due to it being an early s2000), no factory secutiy labels were present on the windows.
The alarm installed is a Toad AI606 system and their included labels in my opinion were not very nice.
I looked at original Honda secutiy labels installed on the later s2000 models, they were subtle, promimnent and of course genuine Honda. haha! So I decieded to go for them.
They were easy to install on the inside rear corner of the windows. The window was cleaned using some IPA solution to ensure an oil and grease free surface before application.
Parts Purchased:
Part: Genuine Honda Security Window Labels x2
Part Number: 39885-S5A-G11
Supplier: Coxmotorparts
Web: www.coxmotorparts.co.uk
Services Used:
None
Resources used
None
Task 29 - New Tyres
15-07-2018
One of the more expensive jobs I have to do on the s2000 are tyres.
The rear tyres on the s2000 are getting extremely low on the inner edge, with the brand name of the tyre being a budget type it was more reason to get them changed.
The front tyres had some good thread left (around 4mm) but I thought it would be best to get a fresh new set on.
Various research into the best tyre for the s2000 spanned various brands but the one brand that came out as being a good all rounder was the Good Year Eagle F1 Asymmetric.
Now in its version 3 model this seemed a wise safe choice for price, comfort, confidence for that spirited drive and perhaps that rare track day.
I went for the OEM standard sizes:
Fronts: 215-45-R17 (XL load)
Rears: 245-40-R17 (XL load)
My local protyre garage are very good and a quick visit to their website, an order was placed for supply and fitting in the next couple days.
The rims were cleaned prior to fitting the new tyres, it was apparent that the existing tyres have been on the rims for quite some time. All tyres mounted well with no hidden issues with the rims.
The alignment will be performed separately at a later stage as these cars are notoriously known for the geo bolts to be seized up.
The new tyres provides the s2000 with a smooth drive and fantastic grip when pushed around the corners.
The good year Asymmetric 3 tyres are definitely highly recommended.
Parts Purchased:
Part: Rear Tyres 245/40R17 Size (Good Year Eagle F1 Asymmetric 3)
Part Number: Eagle F1 Asymmetric 3
Supplier: Protyre
Web: www.protyre.co.uk/
Part: Front Tyres 215/45R17 Size (Good Year Eagle F1 Asymmetric 3)
Part Number: Eagle F1 Asymmetric 3
Supplier: Protyre
Web: www.protyre.co.uk/
Services Used:
Protyre (Tyre Fitting Garage)
Tyres ordered via their online website
(Always check for discount/promo codes before checkout)
www.protyre.co.uk/
Resources used
None
Task 30 - Facelift s2000 Suspension Upgrade
20-08-2018
When the s2000 was at Performance Autoworks for the major clutch change and other service jobs, Rich mentioned that the rear left damper made a slight pattering sound when going over uneven roads.
The internal gas within the dampers can leak over time which causes this sound. The dampers become weaker hence upsetting the handling slightly.
He stated that I upgrade to a nice set of coilovers or a good second hand facelift s2000 suspension set when budget allows.
I was able to find a nice 2004 facelift suspension set on the s2ki forum.
Massive thanks to Grant on the s2ki forum, he supplied me the set at an amazing price
Upon receipt of the kit, it all looked good.
The suspension set was given a good clean and a quick coat of black hammerite paint to freshen it up
For the installation I wanted to give it a go myself, but I called up an old mechanic family friend to assist me.
I am really glad I had the help as there would be no way I could have performed this on my own.
The rear suspension was the hardest to fit, with the rear stabilizer bracket being a pain to re-install.
The rear lower control arms had to be really pushed down to able to remove the damper assembly.
There was alot of tension held within the rear sway bar.
Removing the rear left top suspension bolts was tricky due to it being underneath the fuel piping.
After several hours (5 hours to be exact) the suspension set was installed
After a quick test drive, the pattering was gone and being the face lifted version of the suspension set it feels much softer and the comfort levels have noticeably increased.
The handling has much improved and gives a much more inspired confidence to the handling of the car.
Parts Purchased:
Part: Facelift 2004-2009 Front/Rear Suspension Damper and Spring Assembly
Part Number: N/A
Supplier: Second hand Purchase (s2ki Forum)
Services Used:
Hometune Mechanic
Contact: Rody
Tel: 07831 196 494
(North London Area)
Resources used
None
Task 31 - s2000 Second Photo shoot
25-08-2018
The August bank holiday gave an opportunity to have a second photoshoot for the s2000.
This is how she stands presently.
Edited by s2000_f20 on Wednesday 6th March 14:39
Task 32 - Radiator Fans Constantly On
27-08-2018
From the past couple weeks, it had been noticed that the radiator and A/C radiator fans turn on immediately after pre ignition, engine start and on a cold engine. The engine temperature would be ok and no overheating was present.
The radiator fan should only switch on when the coolant reaches a certain temperature, I think around 93-95 degrees. I set about to find out what was wrong.
Thanks to a few old s2ki forum threads, I performed a few tests to find a root cause to the problem.
The threads pin pointed the radiator fan switch to be the most likely problem.
I performed a few tests to confirm this:
-Swapped over the radiator fan switch relay (there is an identical relay within the fuse box)
Result: No difference
-Disconnect the radiator fan switch itself
(fan switch is located on the left hand bottom section of the radiator)
Result: On pre-ignition, engine start and cold engine, the radiator fans do not switch on.
With the above findings it concluded that the existing radiator fan switch is stuck in the closed position.
I am all for sourcing and using genuine Honda parts but for something quite relatively easy to change, several members have recommended a good after market brand.
The Honda OEM part, cheapest I found was £67.00 (Usual RRP £94.00)
After market type: £13.04
The brand of the aftermarket type was Canbiare which is a well known European brand.
I decided to go for this one.
The switch was relatively easy to access, and from several threads it required no coolant bleeding when swapping it out within the radiator which was a plus point.
The lower under tray was a tad tricky to remove with most of its clips crumbling upon removal.
It would seem that it had never been removed.
With the under tray removed, a good general clean was also performed.
The radiator fan switch has a size 24mm hex and a deep socket was required to remove it.
I realised this quite late and didn't have one in the tool box.
A trip to Halfords solved this.
Just a little spillage of coolant during the quick swap over and that was it.
The radiator fan switch is located at the bottom of the radiator when the red arrow is pointing.
Upon engine start and warm-up the fans kicked in as normal and switched off as expected.
A long 40 min drive confirmed full function had been restored.
The old radiator fan switch removed
Parts Purchased:
Part: Radiator Fan Switch
Honda Part Number: 37760-P00003
Canbiare Part Number: VE709047
Supplier: Car Parts In Motion (Ebay Seller)
Tool: 24mm Deep 1/2 inch Socket
Supplier: Halfords
https://www.halfords.com/workshop-tools/tools/sock...
Services Used:
None
Resources used
S2ki Thread: Fans Always on
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/uk-ireland-s2000-commu...
Thread I Started
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/uk-ireland-s2000-commu...
Thanks to Wurlycorner for recommending the Cambiare brand
http://www.ludegeneration.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=5&...
TASK 33 - Remove Rear Bumper & Lights (Clean and Under Seal)
28-08-2018
The next task on the agenda was to remove the rear bumper, this would give the opportunity to have a peek behind and see the condition of the rear beam and chassis area.
The bumper removal was pretty straight forward and with the process fairly common with most Honda's. Two screws on either side into the rear quarter, clips on top of the rear bumper, three clips on the bottom section of the rear bumper and two clips either side of the arch.
Once the bumper was off the condition of the rear beam and chassis sections weren't too bad. Few light rust spots with the rear beam rusty in a few places. From research, it seems the rear beam is common to rust due to its location and having no protection from any stone chips.
All sections were cleaned and the wire brush came out, light rust spots were brushed with the rear beam also being tidied up the best it could.
Hammerite rust remover was applied on required areas and then followed a coat of dinitrol under seal spray.
A general clean and wipe down was given to all other areas.
Rear number plate bulbs were replaced and terminals greased up to prevent corrosion
The rear lights were removed inspected and cleaned.
All sections behind the lights were in great condition with no leaks or rust.
The connectors were checked and no signs of corrosion was present.
No moisture or leaks were present behind the boot trim.
The light cluster gaskets were checked and cleaned.
The rear bumper was re-installed and new clips were used in all locations.
Parts Purchased:
Part: Dinitrol Under seal Spray 500ml x3
Part Number: 4941
Supplier: MTS Trading (on ebay)
Part: Hammerite rust remover (gel)
Part Number: 5092868
Supplier: Halfords
Services Used:
None
Resources used
None
TASK 34 - Remove Front Bumper (Clean and Rust Treat as Required)
02-09-2018
It made sense that the next task was to perform a front bumper removal.
This would also be an opportunity to check for any rust or damage within this area.
Again, the front bumper removal is similar to all Honda's, two screws either side of the front arch, several bolts on the top section of the bumper, two hidden 10mm bolts either side facing the headlamps and several bolts on the underside of the bumper.
Both front arch liners were also removed to aid in access.
Once the bumper was carefully removed the condition of the front sections of the car were also in pretty good condition, with a few rust spots on the front cross beam and various brackets as one would expect.
The rust spots were rubbed down and Hammerite rust remover was applied, followed by a quick coat of touch up paint.
An overall wipe down of all areas were performed and it was looking really fresh.
The air pump was checked and seemed in good clean condition, the previous owner had not tempered with it.
It is common for owners to delete this component if it fails, as it is in good working condition it will be left alone.
The air pump is designed to blow air into the exhaust system upon a cold engine start to quickly heat up the catalytic converter and thus reduce emissions from cold starting.
If you're air pump has failed, you would get a MIL (malfunction indicator lamp) appear on your dash cluster.
If your fault code has detected that the air pump has failed, you can delete it with a special kit from a company called "Delta Lima"
There will be no operating issues, only slightly higher emissions when the car is started from cold.
This will not affect your MOT as the car will be fully warmed and up to operating temperatures when emissions are tested.
The kit has been proven by many s2000 members on this forum.
The bumper itself was checked for damage and also cleaned.
The front number plate and holder were examined, all bolts mounting the holder were clean and not seized.
Due to some cosmetic damage to the number plate holder and number plate itself, I will be replacing both these items later on so it was good to see it will be hassle free.
Parts Purchased:
Part: Hammerite rust remover (gel)
Part Number: 5092868
Supplier: Halfords
Services Used:
None
Resources used
None
If required - Air Pump Delete Kit from Deltalima
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/european-s2000-owners-...
http://deltalima-s2000.nl/en/handleidingen/egr-air...
Task 35 - Rear Mid Level Spoiler
07-09-2018
The s2000 does look fantastic as standard, but I have always loved the look of the mid level spoiler that comes on a few models. This spoiler is an upgrade accessory and apparently still available from Honda, the only issue with the genuine part is that it is quite expensive and requires holes to be drilled within the boot lid to attach it which I refuse to do.
After a search on the forum, there is an aftermarket cheaper and easy to fit solution.
A highly recommended seller which goes by the name of "BMWchop" (a seller on eBay)
From reviews and feedback from many threads on s2k UK, the shape of the spoiler, quality and paint match is amazing.
Many members have reported nothing but good things and from all the images posted up it looks and fits fantastic.
I was convinced by this so had to try it for myself, an order was placed for NH630 pre-painted version and with a handy 10% eBay voucher at the time it worked out even cheaper.
The seller was very efficient with it arriving in just two days and no import duty charge! Great result.
He spoke good English and kept me up to date.
Arrival of the spoiler
Once arrived, a test fit was performed. The colour match was fantastic and the fitment was excellent.
Very impressed indeed, given its price.
On fitment I tried the supplied double sided adhesive tape, but I didn't feel confident that it would stick well despite various reports from other members that it was fine.
I decided to purchase some 3M automotive Vey High Bond adhesive.
I purchased the longer thinner strip (1.5mm thick tape 3M Automotive very High bond Adhesive) for the top and bottom edges of the spoiler.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3M-VHB-Double-Sided-Foa...
For the spoiler end sections I used slightly thicker (2.3mm 3M Automotive very High bond Adhesive)
(These came in a small square 100mm x 50mm size which I cut up into two strips of 50mm x 25mm and positioned them either side of the spoiler.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3M-VHB-100mm-x-50mm-2-3...
The reason why I went for a slightly thicker tape on the end sections is the recess is slightly deeper where the spoiler curves into the ends of the boot edge.
The underside of the spoiler was sanded down to provide a smooth surface for the double sided adhesive to adhere well too.
Once all the tapes was positioned on the spoiler, I got to work to fit it.
The boot lid surface was cleaned with fairy liquid to ensure a clean grease free surface.
I didn't have any masking tape so I just used what I had in my tool box.
Electrical tape was used to provide me with a guide for fitment as this would be a onetime action.
Once suitably aligned within the position marked, the self adhesive backing was removed and the spoiler was pressed into position.
The bond of the tape is fantastic, It definitely gives that confidence of a good adhesion to the boot lid.
The spoiler looks fantastic and definitely gives the s2000 a much sportier look.
Extremely happy with the look, quality and results, highly recommended.
Parts Purchased
Part: s2000 Mid Level Spoiler
Part Number: N/A
Supplier: BMWchop (on ebay)
Part: 3M Automotive Very High Bond Double Sided Tape (Reel) (1.5mm Thick)
Part Number: RP62
Supplier: fasttapes (on ebay)
Part: 3M Automotive Very High Bond Double Sided Tape (2.3mm Thick)
Part Number: 3M VHB 4991
Supplier: happy-london-tapes (on ebay)
Services Used:
None
Resources used
S2k Thread - Spoiler Recommendation
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/uk-ireland-s2000-commu...
S2k Thread - Adhesive tape for Spoiler
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/uk-ireland-s2000-commu...
Task 36 - Genuine Front Pre-Face Bumper Lip
07-09-2018
I've always loved the look of the pre facelift s2000 with a front lip as it added a subtle aggression to the s2000 without going over the top.
I had an urge to source one but wasn't sure if they were still available.
After several enquiries it became apparent that Honda still had stock of them and they were available in my pre painted Silverstone metallic colour.
Fantastic result.
Unfortunately, the price of this part had increased dramatically over the years and I had to decide whether or not it was worth to pay such a price for one.
I tried to search for alternatives just like with the mid level spoiler.
There were replica's available but from reviews/feedback, the fitment is not great and unless you have a body shop to hand to help fit, paint and attach it, alot of people say to avoid them as the costs and hassle involved isn't worth it.
The genuine part comes pre-painted and attaches as any genuine part does. Utilising existing mounting points with the supplied hardware it takes on average 20mins to fit and the fitment should be perfect.
I contemplated long and hard about it, and thought what the hell. This would most likely be my last upgrade to the car.
Let's go for it.
I placed an order and within 3 days it arrived. The paint finish and quality is as you would expect from a genuine part, flawless. I was glad a genuine part was purchased.
The box was huge!
Fitting the lip was straight forward, with the supplied instructions it just needed the removal of the three centre bolts from the underside of the bumper and a couple of pilot holes drilled on either side of the bumper edges for self tapping screws for the front lip end attachment.
A further 2 bolts per side on the underside were required with the supplied fastening bolts.
A hint of copper grease was used on all bolts and screws for easy removal in the future.
The lip wrapped around the bumper perfectly like a glove and with all the bolts securing it, installation was complete within 30mins and that was me taking my time including adding a layer of wax behind the bumper section that will be covered by the lip.
Fantastic transformation, the front lip does really look good on the pre-face lift s2000.
Fully installed
A great buy and highly recommended to any pre-face lift owner.
Parts Purchased
Part: Genuine Front Under Lip (pre painted in Silverstone metallic)
Part Number: 08F01-S2A-681F
Supplier: Coxmotorparts
Services Used:
None
Resources used
Supplied Instruction Manual for Front Lip Fitting
Also can be found online here
https://www.handa-accessories.com/S2000/s2kfuspoil...
TASK 37 - Investigate Water Leak into Driver Footwell - (PROBLEM 2)
10-09-2018
In the early months of my s2000 ownership, it was noticed that a small water leak was apparent.
This was resolved my repairing the rubber seal on the A-pillar which now re-directs the water as it should out into the door channel recesses.
After a few more heavy rainfalls it was noticed that a slight trickle of water was still entering the cabin and making the carpet underneath the drivers pedals slightly wet. The water seemed to also be absorbed up within the insulation in this area underneath the main floor carpet.
The previous owner never really suffered from this as the car was stored under a car port.
This was on the agenda and was vital I resolve this before winter approaches.
Even getting additional help from a garage to completely strip the interior to find the root cause if required .
I set aside a full day of diagnosis and went about eliminating various sections just to make sure I covered all areas.
Not having any access to a hose pipe or running water I relied on my battery powered portable jet washer to simulate rainfall. Known as the Mobi V17, other similar models are known and manufactured by Sealey or Aqua2go if interested.
Fantastic bit of kit, stores around 18 litres of water and provides excellent suitable pressure.
I checked all the seals around the windows and roof. Moving towards the front and around the A-pillars.
This included all drain points in the engine bay and the drain point under the windscreen wiper cowling
I double checked and removed all the A-pillar plastic mouldings.
No sign of any water entering.
The rear roof drains were checked and confirmed water was draining fine in this section.
The next stage was to remove the wind screen wiper cowling section.
(this will also be documented separately on the next task for inspection and clean)
With the cowling removed, the wind screen seal was inspected with no defects apparent.
The windscreen is still the original Honda part which gave a good sigh of relief it had not be tampered with or previously replaced.
Back into the driver's footwell, I removed the x2 bolts holding the foot rest and the lower right side panel which sits over the bonnet release catch (the driver's door side sill) needs to be unclipped and removed first.
In this state, water can be sprayed and hopefully monitor its point of entrance.
Water drain points are located in the upper corner of the drivers engine bay and another one under the bonnet hinge area.
I used my battery powered pressure washer to direct water at these drain points whilst monitoring.
To my amazement, the water was found trickling into the cabin very slowly. The area where it entered was to the right hand side where the bonnet release cable exits the cabin.
There seemed to be a missing seal or grommet surrounding this cable, a brief look later through the receipts proved that the bonnet release cable was replaced in 2009 and the garage who replaced it did not re-fit the grommet seal.
Item 10 required
The part is still readily available from Honda and only around £4.54.
An order was replaced with a very quick lead time of a few days.
Once the part arrived the fitting was straight forward, the carpets were given a good scrubbing with autoglym shampoo. All underlay sections of the carpet was ensured fully dry using my hobby heat gun.
Some copper grease (all I had at the time)was used on the cable and grommet to allow the grommet to feed itself easily through the cable. It was quite tricky but with alittle patients the grommet secured itself nicely within the aperture sealing it perfectly.
Grommet installed
The end clip to hold the bonnet release plastic panel in place was also purchased as this was originally missing when the car was purchased.
All components fully reassembled
Hopefully this saga can now be put to rest.
A fantastic result, I couldn't have asked for a better outcome
Parts Purchased
Part: Grommet Seal for Bonnet Release Cable
Part Number: 74134-SM-4000
Supplier: Coxmotorparts
Part: 7mm Clip to Secure Side Panel
Part Number: 90667-S0D-003ZH
Supplier: Coxmotorparts
Services Used:
None
Resources used
My Mobi V17 Portable Pressure Washer.
Now known as Aqua2go.
https://www.aqua2go.eu/en/overview.html
TASK 38 - Remove Windscreen Wiper Cowling (Inspect and Clean)
09-09-2018
During the above investigation and after it was solved, it made sense to also inspect and clean this area of the car. With the cowling assumed not having been removed throughout the car's lifetime it definitely showed.
Cobwebs, debris and leaves were everywhere and as expected.
A quick hose down using the portable jet washer removed most of the dirt
(Special care was taken not to soak or get the cabin filter wet)
With the cowling removed, the filter panel and the fan housing down into the heater matrix was fully inspected and checked.
Additional wiping down of various sections continued the clean.
All fittings and cables were inspected with no evidence of any tampering or modifications.
Small surface rust was rubbed down and treated on the centre clip section.
A slight hint of copper grease was used on the wiper motor attachments so the wiper arms do not seize up in the future. (they were quite tricky to remove initially but came off with a little force)
The wiper arms are looking pretty tired with most of its black finish being chipped off, these will be replaced sometime in the future.
A great contrast from before and after, looking fabulously clean.
Parts Purchased
None
Services Used:
None
Resources used
None
TASK 39 - Replace Front Number Plate Mount and Renew Front & Rear Number Plates
27-09-2018
One of the small little tasks to do was to refresh the front number plate mount.
There is quite a considerable graze on the right hand side of the mount with the front number plate beings scratched also.
I was thinking of sanding down the mount and refreshing it with flexible external trim paint, however a brand new part from Honda was only £36.00 and they are easy to fit having previously removed the bumper to check its current status and to ensure nothing was seized up.
An order was placed for a new genuine front number plate mount.
Both number plates were looking rather tired too so an order was placed for brand new front and rear number plates.
The rear plate was fitted with ease, using the old number plate as a template for the mount holes.
A 2.5mm pilot hole was drilled first followed by 4.8mm drill size to accept the suitable self tapping screw.
Yellow screw caps were used to hide the screws for a tidy finish.
The front number plate mount required the front bumper to be removed.
Already having performed this previously, it was straight forward.
With the front bumper removed, the number plate mount fixings can be loosened.
The mount was held in by x2 10mm flanged bolts
A couple of retaining clips had to be pryed away but the mount came away cleanly.
The area behind the mount was given a good clean and polish.
The installation was a breeze and was the reverse of removal.
Once installed, the new front number plate was measured up with new holes
(the old holes were through a character either side of the registration number which was not acceptable)
The screw holes were marked up to the unused section of the number plate near the edges.
A 2.5mm pilot hole was drilled first followed by 4.8mm drill size to accept the suitable self tapping screw.
White screw caps were used to hide the screws for a tidy finish.
Once finished, the bumper was re-installed.
The new plates and mount completes the front end refresh.
Parts Purchased
Part: Genuine Honda Number Plate Mount Holder
Part Number: 71180-S2A-G00
Supplier: Coxmotorparts
Part: Front and Rear Number Plates with fixing kit
Part Number: N/A
Supplier: In Car Products (on ebay)
Services Used:
None
Resources used
None
TASK 40 - Remove and Replace Auxiliary Belt, Idler and Tensioner Pulley Bearings
21-10-2018
One of the last maintenance tasks that needed doing was to replace the auxiliary belt, there is a stretch indicator on the belt tensioner which indicates the current belt is way past its best.
The car still started up fine with no squeal or belt slipping, but it was the right time to renew this assembly.
As shown from the image below, the current belt is way out of specification and pretty stretched out.
The belt is most likely the original one.
With that in mind, it was also a good opportunity to replace the idler and tensioner pulley bearings.
I was going to buy the full idler and tensioner pulleys with their bearings direct from Honda, however a fantastic video from DIYguys on Youtube showed that the bearings themselves can easily be hammered out and replaced.
The pulleys themselves take the common 6203 size bearing with the 2RS model being the recommended low cost alternative.
With this info, I set about ordering the parts.
The auxiliary belt from Honda was over £65.00, again I am all for genuine parts but the price for a belt is pretty ridiculous. Various threads on s2ki showed that the Contitech and gates make excellent alternatives and at a fraction of the cost. The belt change is really straight forward so if this aftermarket belt doesn't last that long they can be replaced easily in 5 mins.
I decided to purchase a Contitech belt from Eurocarparts, with their usual promotional discount it came to £12.39 posted. Absolute bargain.
There were several manufacturers for the bearings, like SRF and Koyo. I decided to purchase a pair of Koyo 6203-2RS bearings. The seller sent me the 2RS-C3 version which has the additional internal radial clearance.
However this should still be fine, it has been installed and operating well so far after 300 miles of driving.
The process was pretty straight forward and enjoyable too.
Everything came apart as expected with no major issues encountered.
Before removing the idler and tensioner pulleys, they were checked to see how worn they were.
Notice how much side to side play the tensioner bearing had and how worn the idler bearing was.
It kept on spinning with a ticking type sound.
See videos below
My Worn Idler Pulley
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0nXYYJ2PD6I
My Worn Tensioner Pulley
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hMBiC07JhzE
The original belt had seen better days, various chips in the belt grooves can be seen.
This was noticed all over the belt.
There were also small cracks in the ribbed grooves too.
From DIYguys video, the only socket I didn't have was the large 1-13/16" socket to rest the tensioner pulley on.
I had to purchase this.
Whilst you are in this area, it is also worth checking the condition of the alternator pulley, water pump pulley and air con compressor.
Ensure the water pump pulley spins freely in both directions with no side to side play and ensure no leaks are present. Ensure the alternator pulley also spins freely and check for play and movement. Perform the same checks to the air con compressor.
Give the surrounding areas a good clean and wipe down before reassembling.
Close up of Idler and Tensioner pulley
Close up of ilder pulley and its original bearing
New bearings installed into Idler and tensioner pulleys
With new belt installed
Belt stretch indicator now within specification
A fantastic result and a job that is well worth doing on the s2000.
Things to note
-Unless you have a super fancy torque wrench, it was noticed that my torque wrench doesn't torque up in reverse, so this would need to be done manually.
-As stated on DIYguys video, don't forget the bolt holding the tensioner pulley is a reverse thread
-As mentioned above, perform checks on the water pump, alternator and air con compressor.
-If you have alittle more time, you can refurbish (i.e sand and quickly spray paint the pulleys to smarten them up alittle)
Parts Purchased
Part: Koyo 6203-2RS Bearings (x2)
Part Number: 6203-2RS
Supplier: D.cjohnsonltd (Ebay seller)
Part: 1-13/16" 3/4 Inch Square Drive Socket
Part Number: 1-13/16"
Supplier: Toolvillage (Ebay seller)
Part: ContiTech Drive Auxiliary belt (s2000)
Contitech Part Number: 6PK1468
Supplier: Eurocarparts
For reference (Aux belt part numbers)
Eurocaparts Part Number: 202770585
Genuine Honda Part Number: 38920-PCX-024
Services Used:
None
Resources used
DIYGuys Video (Pulley Replacement)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P1ooX9ZX0Ik
S2ki Thread - Auxiliary Belt Options
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/uk-ireland-s2000-commu...
This brings the car up to date, I have tried to cover as much I could in such a short space of time and before the winter arrives.
I am happy with the way the car drives and looks and now need to drive it more.
This is a small remaining to-do list and will fulfil them with funds allow.
To-do List
-Renew or Refurbish Front Windshield Wiper Arms
-Upgrade Front Pads to Ferrodo DS2500 Type
Long Term To-Do
-Full Geometry Alignment
-Upgrade Oil Jet Bolts (Was a TSB on my year of s2000)
Maybe's
-Refurbish All Wheels
Thanks for reading
03-11-2018
27-08-2018
From the past couple weeks, it had been noticed that the radiator and A/C radiator fans turn on immediately after pre ignition, engine start and on a cold engine. The engine temperature would be ok and no overheating was present.
The radiator fan should only switch on when the coolant reaches a certain temperature, I think around 93-95 degrees. I set about to find out what was wrong.
Thanks to a few old s2ki forum threads, I performed a few tests to find a root cause to the problem.
The threads pin pointed the radiator fan switch to be the most likely problem.
I performed a few tests to confirm this:
-Swapped over the radiator fan switch relay (there is an identical relay within the fuse box)
Result: No difference
-Disconnect the radiator fan switch itself
(fan switch is located on the left hand bottom section of the radiator)
Result: On pre-ignition, engine start and cold engine, the radiator fans do not switch on.
With the above findings it concluded that the existing radiator fan switch is stuck in the closed position.
I am all for sourcing and using genuine Honda parts but for something quite relatively easy to change, several members have recommended a good after market brand.
The Honda OEM part, cheapest I found was £67.00 (Usual RRP £94.00)
After market type: £13.04
The brand of the aftermarket type was Canbiare which is a well known European brand.
I decided to go for this one.
The switch was relatively easy to access, and from several threads it required no coolant bleeding when swapping it out within the radiator which was a plus point.
The lower under tray was a tad tricky to remove with most of its clips crumbling upon removal.
It would seem that it had never been removed.
With the under tray removed, a good general clean was also performed.
The radiator fan switch has a size 24mm hex and a deep socket was required to remove it.
I realised this quite late and didn't have one in the tool box.
A trip to Halfords solved this.
Just a little spillage of coolant during the quick swap over and that was it.
The radiator fan switch is located at the bottom of the radiator when the red arrow is pointing.
Upon engine start and warm-up the fans kicked in as normal and switched off as expected.
A long 40 min drive confirmed full function had been restored.
The old radiator fan switch removed
Parts Purchased:
Part: Radiator Fan Switch
Honda Part Number: 37760-P00003
Canbiare Part Number: VE709047
Supplier: Car Parts In Motion (Ebay Seller)
Tool: 24mm Deep 1/2 inch Socket
Supplier: Halfords
https://www.halfords.com/workshop-tools/tools/sock...
Services Used:
None
Resources used
S2ki Thread: Fans Always on
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/uk-ireland-s2000-commu...
Thread I Started
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/uk-ireland-s2000-commu...
Thanks to Wurlycorner for recommending the Cambiare brand
http://www.ludegeneration.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=5&...
TASK 33 - Remove Rear Bumper & Lights (Clean and Under Seal)
28-08-2018
The next task on the agenda was to remove the rear bumper, this would give the opportunity to have a peek behind and see the condition of the rear beam and chassis area.
The bumper removal was pretty straight forward and with the process fairly common with most Honda's. Two screws on either side into the rear quarter, clips on top of the rear bumper, three clips on the bottom section of the rear bumper and two clips either side of the arch.
Once the bumper was off the condition of the rear beam and chassis sections weren't too bad. Few light rust spots with the rear beam rusty in a few places. From research, it seems the rear beam is common to rust due to its location and having no protection from any stone chips.
All sections were cleaned and the wire brush came out, light rust spots were brushed with the rear beam also being tidied up the best it could.
Hammerite rust remover was applied on required areas and then followed a coat of dinitrol under seal spray.
A general clean and wipe down was given to all other areas.
Rear number plate bulbs were replaced and terminals greased up to prevent corrosion
The rear lights were removed inspected and cleaned.
All sections behind the lights were in great condition with no leaks or rust.
The connectors were checked and no signs of corrosion was present.
No moisture or leaks were present behind the boot trim.
The light cluster gaskets were checked and cleaned.
The rear bumper was re-installed and new clips were used in all locations.
Parts Purchased:
Part: Dinitrol Under seal Spray 500ml x3
Part Number: 4941
Supplier: MTS Trading (on ebay)
Part: Hammerite rust remover (gel)
Part Number: 5092868
Supplier: Halfords
Services Used:
None
Resources used
None
TASK 34 - Remove Front Bumper (Clean and Rust Treat as Required)
02-09-2018
It made sense that the next task was to perform a front bumper removal.
This would also be an opportunity to check for any rust or damage within this area.
Again, the front bumper removal is similar to all Honda's, two screws either side of the front arch, several bolts on the top section of the bumper, two hidden 10mm bolts either side facing the headlamps and several bolts on the underside of the bumper.
Both front arch liners were also removed to aid in access.
Once the bumper was carefully removed the condition of the front sections of the car were also in pretty good condition, with a few rust spots on the front cross beam and various brackets as one would expect.
The rust spots were rubbed down and Hammerite rust remover was applied, followed by a quick coat of touch up paint.
An overall wipe down of all areas were performed and it was looking really fresh.
The air pump was checked and seemed in good clean condition, the previous owner had not tempered with it.
It is common for owners to delete this component if it fails, as it is in good working condition it will be left alone.
The air pump is designed to blow air into the exhaust system upon a cold engine start to quickly heat up the catalytic converter and thus reduce emissions from cold starting.
If you're air pump has failed, you would get a MIL (malfunction indicator lamp) appear on your dash cluster.
If your fault code has detected that the air pump has failed, you can delete it with a special kit from a company called "Delta Lima"
There will be no operating issues, only slightly higher emissions when the car is started from cold.
This will not affect your MOT as the car will be fully warmed and up to operating temperatures when emissions are tested.
The kit has been proven by many s2000 members on this forum.
The bumper itself was checked for damage and also cleaned.
The front number plate and holder were examined, all bolts mounting the holder were clean and not seized.
Due to some cosmetic damage to the number plate holder and number plate itself, I will be replacing both these items later on so it was good to see it will be hassle free.
Parts Purchased:
Part: Hammerite rust remover (gel)
Part Number: 5092868
Supplier: Halfords
Services Used:
None
Resources used
None
If required - Air Pump Delete Kit from Deltalima
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/european-s2000-owners-...
http://deltalima-s2000.nl/en/handleidingen/egr-air...
Task 35 - Rear Mid Level Spoiler
07-09-2018
The s2000 does look fantastic as standard, but I have always loved the look of the mid level spoiler that comes on a few models. This spoiler is an upgrade accessory and apparently still available from Honda, the only issue with the genuine part is that it is quite expensive and requires holes to be drilled within the boot lid to attach it which I refuse to do.
After a search on the forum, there is an aftermarket cheaper and easy to fit solution.
A highly recommended seller which goes by the name of "BMWchop" (a seller on eBay)
From reviews and feedback from many threads on s2k UK, the shape of the spoiler, quality and paint match is amazing.
Many members have reported nothing but good things and from all the images posted up it looks and fits fantastic.
I was convinced by this so had to try it for myself, an order was placed for NH630 pre-painted version and with a handy 10% eBay voucher at the time it worked out even cheaper.
The seller was very efficient with it arriving in just two days and no import duty charge! Great result.
He spoke good English and kept me up to date.
Arrival of the spoiler
Once arrived, a test fit was performed. The colour match was fantastic and the fitment was excellent.
Very impressed indeed, given its price.
On fitment I tried the supplied double sided adhesive tape, but I didn't feel confident that it would stick well despite various reports from other members that it was fine.
I decided to purchase some 3M automotive Vey High Bond adhesive.
I purchased the longer thinner strip (1.5mm thick tape 3M Automotive very High bond Adhesive) for the top and bottom edges of the spoiler.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3M-VHB-Double-Sided-Foa...
For the spoiler end sections I used slightly thicker (2.3mm 3M Automotive very High bond Adhesive)
(These came in a small square 100mm x 50mm size which I cut up into two strips of 50mm x 25mm and positioned them either side of the spoiler.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3M-VHB-100mm-x-50mm-2-3...
The reason why I went for a slightly thicker tape on the end sections is the recess is slightly deeper where the spoiler curves into the ends of the boot edge.
The underside of the spoiler was sanded down to provide a smooth surface for the double sided adhesive to adhere well too.
Once all the tapes was positioned on the spoiler, I got to work to fit it.
The boot lid surface was cleaned with fairy liquid to ensure a clean grease free surface.
I didn't have any masking tape so I just used what I had in my tool box.
Electrical tape was used to provide me with a guide for fitment as this would be a onetime action.
Once suitably aligned within the position marked, the self adhesive backing was removed and the spoiler was pressed into position.
The bond of the tape is fantastic, It definitely gives that confidence of a good adhesion to the boot lid.
The spoiler looks fantastic and definitely gives the s2000 a much sportier look.
Extremely happy with the look, quality and results, highly recommended.
Parts Purchased
Part: s2000 Mid Level Spoiler
Part Number: N/A
Supplier: BMWchop (on ebay)
Part: 3M Automotive Very High Bond Double Sided Tape (Reel) (1.5mm Thick)
Part Number: RP62
Supplier: fasttapes (on ebay)
Part: 3M Automotive Very High Bond Double Sided Tape (2.3mm Thick)
Part Number: 3M VHB 4991
Supplier: happy-london-tapes (on ebay)
Services Used:
None
Resources used
S2k Thread - Spoiler Recommendation
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/uk-ireland-s2000-commu...
S2k Thread - Adhesive tape for Spoiler
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/uk-ireland-s2000-commu...
Task 36 - Genuine Front Pre-Face Bumper Lip
07-09-2018
I've always loved the look of the pre facelift s2000 with a front lip as it added a subtle aggression to the s2000 without going over the top.
I had an urge to source one but wasn't sure if they were still available.
After several enquiries it became apparent that Honda still had stock of them and they were available in my pre painted Silverstone metallic colour.
Fantastic result.
Unfortunately, the price of this part had increased dramatically over the years and I had to decide whether or not it was worth to pay such a price for one.
I tried to search for alternatives just like with the mid level spoiler.
There were replica's available but from reviews/feedback, the fitment is not great and unless you have a body shop to hand to help fit, paint and attach it, alot of people say to avoid them as the costs and hassle involved isn't worth it.
The genuine part comes pre-painted and attaches as any genuine part does. Utilising existing mounting points with the supplied hardware it takes on average 20mins to fit and the fitment should be perfect.
I contemplated long and hard about it, and thought what the hell. This would most likely be my last upgrade to the car.
Let's go for it.
I placed an order and within 3 days it arrived. The paint finish and quality is as you would expect from a genuine part, flawless. I was glad a genuine part was purchased.
The box was huge!
Fitting the lip was straight forward, with the supplied instructions it just needed the removal of the three centre bolts from the underside of the bumper and a couple of pilot holes drilled on either side of the bumper edges for self tapping screws for the front lip end attachment.
A further 2 bolts per side on the underside were required with the supplied fastening bolts.
A hint of copper grease was used on all bolts and screws for easy removal in the future.
The lip wrapped around the bumper perfectly like a glove and with all the bolts securing it, installation was complete within 30mins and that was me taking my time including adding a layer of wax behind the bumper section that will be covered by the lip.
Fantastic transformation, the front lip does really look good on the pre-face lift s2000.
Fully installed
A great buy and highly recommended to any pre-face lift owner.
Parts Purchased
Part: Genuine Front Under Lip (pre painted in Silverstone metallic)
Part Number: 08F01-S2A-681F
Supplier: Coxmotorparts
Services Used:
None
Resources used
Supplied Instruction Manual for Front Lip Fitting
Also can be found online here
https://www.handa-accessories.com/S2000/s2kfuspoil...
TASK 37 - Investigate Water Leak into Driver Footwell - (PROBLEM 2)
10-09-2018
In the early months of my s2000 ownership, it was noticed that a small water leak was apparent.
This was resolved my repairing the rubber seal on the A-pillar which now re-directs the water as it should out into the door channel recesses.
After a few more heavy rainfalls it was noticed that a slight trickle of water was still entering the cabin and making the carpet underneath the drivers pedals slightly wet. The water seemed to also be absorbed up within the insulation in this area underneath the main floor carpet.
The previous owner never really suffered from this as the car was stored under a car port.
This was on the agenda and was vital I resolve this before winter approaches.
Even getting additional help from a garage to completely strip the interior to find the root cause if required .
I set aside a full day of diagnosis and went about eliminating various sections just to make sure I covered all areas.
Not having any access to a hose pipe or running water I relied on my battery powered portable jet washer to simulate rainfall. Known as the Mobi V17, other similar models are known and manufactured by Sealey or Aqua2go if interested.
Fantastic bit of kit, stores around 18 litres of water and provides excellent suitable pressure.
I checked all the seals around the windows and roof. Moving towards the front and around the A-pillars.
This included all drain points in the engine bay and the drain point under the windscreen wiper cowling
I double checked and removed all the A-pillar plastic mouldings.
No sign of any water entering.
The rear roof drains were checked and confirmed water was draining fine in this section.
The next stage was to remove the wind screen wiper cowling section.
(this will also be documented separately on the next task for inspection and clean)
With the cowling removed, the wind screen seal was inspected with no defects apparent.
The windscreen is still the original Honda part which gave a good sigh of relief it had not be tampered with or previously replaced.
Back into the driver's footwell, I removed the x2 bolts holding the foot rest and the lower right side panel which sits over the bonnet release catch (the driver's door side sill) needs to be unclipped and removed first.
In this state, water can be sprayed and hopefully monitor its point of entrance.
Water drain points are located in the upper corner of the drivers engine bay and another one under the bonnet hinge area.
I used my battery powered pressure washer to direct water at these drain points whilst monitoring.
To my amazement, the water was found trickling into the cabin very slowly. The area where it entered was to the right hand side where the bonnet release cable exits the cabin.
There seemed to be a missing seal or grommet surrounding this cable, a brief look later through the receipts proved that the bonnet release cable was replaced in 2009 and the garage who replaced it did not re-fit the grommet seal.
Item 10 required
The part is still readily available from Honda and only around £4.54.
An order was replaced with a very quick lead time of a few days.
Once the part arrived the fitting was straight forward, the carpets were given a good scrubbing with autoglym shampoo. All underlay sections of the carpet was ensured fully dry using my hobby heat gun.
Some copper grease (all I had at the time)was used on the cable and grommet to allow the grommet to feed itself easily through the cable. It was quite tricky but with alittle patients the grommet secured itself nicely within the aperture sealing it perfectly.
Grommet installed
The end clip to hold the bonnet release plastic panel in place was also purchased as this was originally missing when the car was purchased.
All components fully reassembled
Hopefully this saga can now be put to rest.
A fantastic result, I couldn't have asked for a better outcome
Parts Purchased
Part: Grommet Seal for Bonnet Release Cable
Part Number: 74134-SM-4000
Supplier: Coxmotorparts
Part: 7mm Clip to Secure Side Panel
Part Number: 90667-S0D-003ZH
Supplier: Coxmotorparts
Services Used:
None
Resources used
My Mobi V17 Portable Pressure Washer.
Now known as Aqua2go.
https://www.aqua2go.eu/en/overview.html
TASK 38 - Remove Windscreen Wiper Cowling (Inspect and Clean)
09-09-2018
During the above investigation and after it was solved, it made sense to also inspect and clean this area of the car. With the cowling assumed not having been removed throughout the car's lifetime it definitely showed.
Cobwebs, debris and leaves were everywhere and as expected.
A quick hose down using the portable jet washer removed most of the dirt
(Special care was taken not to soak or get the cabin filter wet)
With the cowling removed, the filter panel and the fan housing down into the heater matrix was fully inspected and checked.
Additional wiping down of various sections continued the clean.
All fittings and cables were inspected with no evidence of any tampering or modifications.
Small surface rust was rubbed down and treated on the centre clip section.
A slight hint of copper grease was used on the wiper motor attachments so the wiper arms do not seize up in the future. (they were quite tricky to remove initially but came off with a little force)
The wiper arms are looking pretty tired with most of its black finish being chipped off, these will be replaced sometime in the future.
A great contrast from before and after, looking fabulously clean.
Parts Purchased
None
Services Used:
None
Resources used
None
TASK 39 - Replace Front Number Plate Mount and Renew Front & Rear Number Plates
27-09-2018
One of the small little tasks to do was to refresh the front number plate mount.
There is quite a considerable graze on the right hand side of the mount with the front number plate beings scratched also.
I was thinking of sanding down the mount and refreshing it with flexible external trim paint, however a brand new part from Honda was only £36.00 and they are easy to fit having previously removed the bumper to check its current status and to ensure nothing was seized up.
An order was placed for a new genuine front number plate mount.
Both number plates were looking rather tired too so an order was placed for brand new front and rear number plates.
The rear plate was fitted with ease, using the old number plate as a template for the mount holes.
A 2.5mm pilot hole was drilled first followed by 4.8mm drill size to accept the suitable self tapping screw.
Yellow screw caps were used to hide the screws for a tidy finish.
The front number plate mount required the front bumper to be removed.
Already having performed this previously, it was straight forward.
With the front bumper removed, the number plate mount fixings can be loosened.
The mount was held in by x2 10mm flanged bolts
A couple of retaining clips had to be pryed away but the mount came away cleanly.
The area behind the mount was given a good clean and polish.
The installation was a breeze and was the reverse of removal.
Once installed, the new front number plate was measured up with new holes
(the old holes were through a character either side of the registration number which was not acceptable)
The screw holes were marked up to the unused section of the number plate near the edges.
A 2.5mm pilot hole was drilled first followed by 4.8mm drill size to accept the suitable self tapping screw.
White screw caps were used to hide the screws for a tidy finish.
Once finished, the bumper was re-installed.
The new plates and mount completes the front end refresh.
Parts Purchased
Part: Genuine Honda Number Plate Mount Holder
Part Number: 71180-S2A-G00
Supplier: Coxmotorparts
Part: Front and Rear Number Plates with fixing kit
Part Number: N/A
Supplier: In Car Products (on ebay)
Services Used:
None
Resources used
None
TASK 40 - Remove and Replace Auxiliary Belt, Idler and Tensioner Pulley Bearings
21-10-2018
One of the last maintenance tasks that needed doing was to replace the auxiliary belt, there is a stretch indicator on the belt tensioner which indicates the current belt is way past its best.
The car still started up fine with no squeal or belt slipping, but it was the right time to renew this assembly.
As shown from the image below, the current belt is way out of specification and pretty stretched out.
The belt is most likely the original one.
With that in mind, it was also a good opportunity to replace the idler and tensioner pulley bearings.
I was going to buy the full idler and tensioner pulleys with their bearings direct from Honda, however a fantastic video from DIYguys on Youtube showed that the bearings themselves can easily be hammered out and replaced.
The pulleys themselves take the common 6203 size bearing with the 2RS model being the recommended low cost alternative.
With this info, I set about ordering the parts.
The auxiliary belt from Honda was over £65.00, again I am all for genuine parts but the price for a belt is pretty ridiculous. Various threads on s2ki showed that the Contitech and gates make excellent alternatives and at a fraction of the cost. The belt change is really straight forward so if this aftermarket belt doesn't last that long they can be replaced easily in 5 mins.
I decided to purchase a Contitech belt from Eurocarparts, with their usual promotional discount it came to £12.39 posted. Absolute bargain.
There were several manufacturers for the bearings, like SRF and Koyo. I decided to purchase a pair of Koyo 6203-2RS bearings. The seller sent me the 2RS-C3 version which has the additional internal radial clearance.
However this should still be fine, it has been installed and operating well so far after 300 miles of driving.
The process was pretty straight forward and enjoyable too.
Everything came apart as expected with no major issues encountered.
Before removing the idler and tensioner pulleys, they were checked to see how worn they were.
Notice how much side to side play the tensioner bearing had and how worn the idler bearing was.
It kept on spinning with a ticking type sound.
See videos below
My Worn Idler Pulley
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0nXYYJ2PD6I
My Worn Tensioner Pulley
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hMBiC07JhzE
The original belt had seen better days, various chips in the belt grooves can be seen.
This was noticed all over the belt.
There were also small cracks in the ribbed grooves too.
From DIYguys video, the only socket I didn't have was the large 1-13/16" socket to rest the tensioner pulley on.
I had to purchase this.
Whilst you are in this area, it is also worth checking the condition of the alternator pulley, water pump pulley and air con compressor.
Ensure the water pump pulley spins freely in both directions with no side to side play and ensure no leaks are present. Ensure the alternator pulley also spins freely and check for play and movement. Perform the same checks to the air con compressor.
Give the surrounding areas a good clean and wipe down before reassembling.
Close up of Idler and Tensioner pulley
Close up of ilder pulley and its original bearing
New bearings installed into Idler and tensioner pulleys
With new belt installed
Belt stretch indicator now within specification
A fantastic result and a job that is well worth doing on the s2000.
Things to note
-Unless you have a super fancy torque wrench, it was noticed that my torque wrench doesn't torque up in reverse, so this would need to be done manually.
-As stated on DIYguys video, don't forget the bolt holding the tensioner pulley is a reverse thread
-As mentioned above, perform checks on the water pump, alternator and air con compressor.
-If you have alittle more time, you can refurbish (i.e sand and quickly spray paint the pulleys to smarten them up alittle)
Parts Purchased
Part: Koyo 6203-2RS Bearings (x2)
Part Number: 6203-2RS
Supplier: D.cjohnsonltd (Ebay seller)
Part: 1-13/16" 3/4 Inch Square Drive Socket
Part Number: 1-13/16"
Supplier: Toolvillage (Ebay seller)
Part: ContiTech Drive Auxiliary belt (s2000)
Contitech Part Number: 6PK1468
Supplier: Eurocarparts
For reference (Aux belt part numbers)
Eurocaparts Part Number: 202770585
Genuine Honda Part Number: 38920-PCX-024
Services Used:
None
Resources used
DIYGuys Video (Pulley Replacement)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P1ooX9ZX0Ik
S2ki Thread - Auxiliary Belt Options
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/uk-ireland-s2000-commu...
This brings the car up to date, I have tried to cover as much I could in such a short space of time and before the winter arrives.
I am happy with the way the car drives and looks and now need to drive it more.
This is a small remaining to-do list and will fulfil them with funds allow.
To-do List
-Renew or Refurbish Front Windshield Wiper Arms
-Upgrade Front Pads to Ferrodo DS2500 Type
Long Term To-Do
-Full Geometry Alignment
-Upgrade Oil Jet Bolts (Was a TSB on my year of s2000)
Maybe's
-Refurbish All Wheels
Thanks for reading
03-11-2018
Task 41 - Starter Motor Grind in Cold Conditions
19-11-2018
As soon as the temperatures started to drop I noticed something very odd with the s2000. I occasionally will use the s2000 for work and upon engine start I noticed a slight grind just after the engine fired up.
At first I didn't think anything of it, and thought it was me having my finger on the push start button longer than I should have. As the mornings got colder, I noticed it occurring alot more.
I quickly did a search on the forum, and unfortunately it is a common known issue with the starter motors of all s2000's. It affected all years. (apparently it also affects all k20 engines too)
I was quite disappointed at this, with the s2000 being a flagship car for Honda in its hay day, things like this shouldn't occur. The starter motor part is not cheap with a genuine Honda part coming up at £400. From reading up on several threads, most people tend to just live with it. It does not occur at all in milder or summer weather conditions and as the majority of people tend to only use their s2000's in the summer months it is quite often overlooked.
The issue I have is that the constant grind will eventually cause long term damage to the flywheel, and the grinding sound is truly awful.
The basic reason for the grind is a sticking bendix gear mechanism, the sticking causes a slight delay in retracting the pinion gear after engine start which causes the slight grind.
It is not known if Honda ever knew about this issue, and it is believed the starter motor from Honda was never up-issued or superseded to address the problem at all. So inevitably, if you did change the starter motor it would be only a matter of time until the problem returned again.
With this knowledge, I was intending to just live it with it and not use the car as much during the winter months. However a brand new blueprint s2000 starter motor popped up on eBay, a quick message to the seller I decided to take a punt and did a deal.
I manage to bag it for £35 delivered
Several DIY guides showed that the process to remove and fit a starter motor was quite tricky, doable but tricky. With winter in full motion I decided not to tackle it and have my trusty garage to take care of it.
A quick message to Performance Autoworks, a slot was booked in and the job was done within a couple of hours.
The starter motor worked well upon initial fire, several tests over the next coming days proved that the initial grind had disappeared. A great result all at a great price.
Thanks again to Rich at Performance Autoworks and to the fellow members of s2ki UK forum for help and advice.
Parts Purchased:
Part: s2000 Starter Motor (Blueprint Version)
Blueprint Part Number: ADH21255
Private Ebay Sale: EBay seller "proud2help"
For reference
Genuine Honda Part Number for Starter Motor: 31200-PCX-A02
Services Used:
Performance Autoworks
Performance Autoworks (Fairford/Gloucestershire GL7 4BX)
Contact: Richard Voaden
Tel: 01285 711 733
Email: info@performance-autoworks.co.uk
https://www.facebook.com/pages/Performa ... 1547611908
Resources used
S2ki Thread: "Starter motor grind on cold mornings"
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/uk-ireland-s2000-commu...
Task 42 - Quick Photo Shoot, Somewhere in Fairford.
19-11-2018
Just after the starter motor was replaced, we decided to have a quick blast around the surrounding roads.
A lovely rural car park was found so there was only one thing to do
A quick photo shoot of the car as she stands today.
I didn't have my DLSR camera, so the shots were taken using my Samsung galaxy S6 phone.
Parts Purchased:
None
Services Used:
None
Resources used
None
Task 43 - Investigate Water Leak into Boot - (PROBLEM 3)
(Water Ingress Through Soft Top Hood Drainage Channel)
24-11-2018
Whilst I was washing the s2000 on the weekend, it was noticed that the boot floor on the right hand corner was slightly wet. It was at this instant, I knew I was another victim of the s2000 dreaded water in the boot syndrome.
First task was to strip the boot entirely of its interior trim, all interior trim came out with ease.
There was one tricky bolt securing the OEM CD changer, this attaches the cradle from underneath the chassis. Once removed the main floor trim came out with ease.
Once all the trim was removed, the water also found its way into the main centre section of the boot floor where it had just started to rust.
A quick mop up of the standing water, wire brush with my cordless drill and a couple coats of hammertite paint quickly removed the rust and further protected it.
The condition of the boot was in pretty good shape and there seemed to be no evidence of any crash damage.
With that sorted, the next task was to try and locate the water leak. A quick spray over the hood showed that the water was entering the boot on the back section of the soft top hood. It appeared to be entering with a slow drip just in the corner from the drain gutter channel.
https://youtu.be/0H4RRGVfEqY
The leak was now located but it would be the furthest I could go without dismantling the hood.
It would seem there is a U shaped gutter channel surrounding the back edge of the hood, rain water collects in these channels and directs it to the side of the car.
Photos courtesy of user: Mike’s
With that in mind, my options were either to replace the hood or find a hardtop.
I made some enquiries for the best places for hood replacements, the top ones being Jack Smiths or Monsoon Hoods. I really wanted a hardtop, so the search continued to see if I could get one.
Parts Purchased:
None
Services Used:
None
Resources used
Monsoon Car Hoods
https://www.monsooncarhoods.co.uk/
Jack smith Hoods
https://www.facebook.com/JackRSmithMotorTrimmers/
(Jack smiths does not have a website nor does he communicate via email)
Note: telephone is his only form of communication
Task 44 - Hardtop Purchase
02-12-2018
Whilst browsing the forums and eBay, an s2000 hardtop in Silverstone silver popped up on eBay.
From the images it looked in fabulous condition.
Further enquiries led to additional images and some very minor scratches to the right had side of the hardtop.
There was some minor scratches on the inside upper interior on the passenger side which I didn't mind.
We discussed its pricing and then we struck an agreement.
Overall, for the price it was a fantastic deal, and it would have been too good of a price to pass even with the slight defects.
This would now solve my immediate water leaking issues, I intend to keep the hardtop on until I find the additional funds to replace the hood at a later date.
I've always loved the look of the hardtop, it just completes the fantastic lines of the s2000.
I had a quick look at the original Honda instructions for installing the hardtop, just to be familiar with the process.
The day came to pick up the hardtop. They were based near Bournemouth so it was approx 2 hour drive from home.
It was constantly raining on and off throughout the day, nevertheless, I got there with no drama's or hold ups on the roads and it was great drive. There are some fab roads down there.
The seller was very pleasant and was gutted to let the hardtop go, he had his s2000 for 12 years until he was a victim of the s2000 twitchy rear end. His s2000 was written off.
The hardtop was more fiddly to install than I expected, but the spike brackets lined up great and the front strikers were clamped securely, the revised hardtop strikers will most likely be needed but I will purchase these at a later date. The install was definitely a two person job.
It needs a good clean having been in their garage for many years, but overall I was very pleased with the results.
With the s2000 being a 1999 model, I did not have the circuitry for the rear heater demister, my next task would be to possibly find out if I can get this feature all up and running.
After a few rainy days, it had been confirmed that no further water leakage was entering the boot via the roof area.
However, before re-installing the boot trim the common rear bumper vent will be siliconed up as a precaution.
This to follow at a later task.
Further research shows that a specific loom for the rear heater circuitry has now been discontinued from Honda.
This is specific for the 1999-2001 model of the s2000.
In light of this information, I will be dropping the plans of commissioning the rear demister setup.
Parts Purchased:
Part: s2000 Genuine Hardtop Roof
Honda Part Number: Unknown
Private Sale: EBay seller 2nd Hand
Services Used:
None
Resources used
PDF of hardtop installation Instructions
https://www.handa-accessories.com/s2000/s2k2top.pd...
S2ki thread - Rear Heater Demister Circuitry
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/uk-ireland-s2000-commu...
Task 45 - Investigate Water Leak into Boot - (PROBLEM 4)
(Water Ingress Through Antenna)
07-12-2018
After a few heavy rainfalls I kept monitoring the boot for any further water ingress, to my disappointment another pool of water was present on the right hand side of the boot.
Further checks showed clearly that it was now entering through the rear antenna.
Placing my hand up around the base of the antenna inside the boot, it showed water had been dripping through.
This seemed to be another common water entrance point for the s2000.
To remove the fastening nut that secures the antenna mount and seals, a special tool was required.
The special tool that is required seems to be similar to a 90 degree bent pliers used for removing circlips.
However, within my tool box I located a tool to remove rear back cases of watches.
This was ideal for the job and fitted the fastening nut perfectly.
The fastening nut and all seals were removed and inspected.
All seals were in good condition and no rips or tears were present.
A good clean were given to all components, including the surrounding area of the body work where the seals are positioned.
Shin entsui silicone grease was used to coat the seals to restore its suppleness and flexibility.
Re-assembly was straight forward.
After several rainfalls, no further water ingress was present.
It may have seemed that the cause of the water leakage was a loose fastening nut.
New seals and components were still readily available from Honda and were reasonably priced.
However, the current components were in such good condition, I felt there was no need for replacements.
Parts Purchased:
None
Services Used:
None
Resources used
None
Task 46 - Stereo Removal & Check
18-12-2018
One of the quick easy tasks on the list was to remove the head unit to check for any issues.
The stereo system worked fine, but as this was a very easy task it would be an ideal opportunity to check to see if any dodgy modifications were performed. Especially after seeing the poor execution of the speaker upgrade a while back.
Dealing with anything electronic, it's always ideal to disconnect the main car's battery.
Being an original stereo head unit in known good operating condition, it is not 100% necessary but that is up to you.
The front stereo cover was removed by gently applying outward pressure to the lower section of the cover. The cover pops out revealing the head unit installation screws, 2 self tapers either side of the head unit.
Simply unscrew these and the head unit can be removed. It was that easy.
Thankfully on inspection, it would seem that the head unit has never been touched.
All cabling and wiring are all original, no cutting or splicing was present on any of the ISO block wires.
The head unit's main ISO connector and CD changer connector was unplugged and all its terminals wire brushed and cleaned.
Re-installation was straight forward and a breeze.
Don't forget to re-connect the battery if you disconnected it.
I have no plans in upgrading the stereo, the original system with its original CD changer works fantastic.
Parts Purchased:
None
Services Used:
None
Resources used
Note: If you plan to remove or disconnect the head unit,
Ensure you have the head unit security code to hand, as this will be required upon power up.
(As far as I am aware, all OEM s2000 head units will require a security code if the battery has been disconnected)
Task 47 - Hardtop Clean
18-12-2018
One of the tasks was to deep clean the hardtop, with the previous owner having stored this hardtop in their garage it needed a good clean.
The first task was to hose down and clean the hardtop as normal, detailing brushes were used to remove dirt and grime from the side crevices and all rubber seals and gaskets were wiped down. The latches were thoroughly cleaned with brushes and the headliner was also wiped down.
Being on my own, the hardtop cannot just be removed and placed on the floor to clean, so I had to do what I could with the hardtop slightly unbolted.
Once the hardtop was clean, the rear side interior inner panels were removed, this area was covered in spider webs and dead spiders, it wasn't a pleasant sight. I didn't take a pic of this as I just plodded on in hoovering it all up.
Area now completely clean
Once I was happy with the cleanliness of the hardtop, it was now a case to quickly DA polish the paint work.
I don't have mains power out in the car park, so I had to make use of a DA attachment to a cordless drill.
It is not to bad and useful in removing light marks and blemishes. Meqguries compound polish was used.
After the polishing session, all seals were coated in Shin Entsui silicone grease.
This included the seal which mates to the rear boot lid deck and the seal which mates to the front top section of the windshield. A hardtop will always make noises due to the fact it is not physically part of the car, however siliconing all these seals is highly recommended to help prevent annoying squeaks and rubbing noises.
A rattling noise was also present which was due to the front strikers being the original version and worn out.
Hardtop front striker upgrade will be purchased and installed later to further reduce this hardtop rattling sound.
Parts Purchased:
None
Services Used:
None
Resources used
Meguires DA Drill Attachment Polisher
Task 48 - Investigate Water Leak into Boot - (PROBLEM 5)
(Water Ingress Through Rear Bumper Vent)
28-12-2018
From the previous water ingress issue (Problem 4), the boot was still in a stripped down state as this allowed me to monitor and see if there were any further water ingress issues.
After several checks ,it was confirmed that a very small drip was coming from the rear bumper's one way vent after several heavy rain falls.
Again, this is another common water entry point on all s2000's.
The gasket seal around this vent perishes over time, and can allow water ingress filling up the base pan of the boot.
Due to the tool set being on top of this area, owners tend not to realise that water has been settling underneath for quite some time.
The s2000 is now 20 years old, so it was understandable that this gasket has lost its ability to seal.
To resolve the issue it required the rear bumper to be removed.
On a mild winter's day during the Christmas holidays, I set about to get this sorted.
The rear bumper was removed easily as it was removed on a previous task.
Once the bumper was removed, the vent can be seen. It is unclipped from inside the boot area.
(note: Boot trim to the rear of the car needs to be removed if not already done so)
Once unclipped, the vent can be removed with ease.
The gasket seal was still intact but it was starting to loose its adhesion.
The gasket was peeled away and removed completely.
With the gasket removed, the vent was thoroughly cleaned and checked for any other defects.
Once I was happy no other defects was present, I continued to prep the mating area. This was cleaned and lightly abraded to allow the silicone to adhere to it.
The side clips have to be discarded to allow a flush fit between the vent and chassis.
The silicone chosen for the job was a marine grade type, there are many types of silicone variants available so I wanted one that will last and be a one time job.
I choose Geocel's marine grade type silicone in black.
It was applied to the chassis section and on the vent itself, once applied, the vent was mated up to the chassis.
Force was applied for several minutes to keep it in place and then it held on by itself.
Once cured (24 hours), it gave a superb excellent long lasting seal.
It was then tested and confirmed water tight.
An easy DIY that has now hopefully ended my water ingress issues.
Parts Purchased:
Part: Geocel Marine Silicone (Black Colour)
Part: N/A
Ebay Link
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Geocel-Marine-Silicone-...
Services Used:
None
Resources used
s2ki Thread - "Sealing Rear Bumper Vent"
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/s2000-under-hood-22/le...
Task 49 - Further Rust Proof Base Pan of Boot
28-12-2018
As soon as the bumper vent was completed, I decided to further protect the base pan of the boot just in case water does find its way into the centre section of the boot for long periods of time.
There were many rust proofing options, however I decided to use the left over Dinitrol 4941 underseal spray I used on the rear bumper undersealing.
I had just over half a can of the stuff so it was ideal.
The base pan of the boot was thoroughly wiped down and cleaned to ensure no grease or oils were on the surface. All debris was also hovered up.
The upper boot floor sections were masked off to prevent any over spray, and a suitable boundary was masked off on the section to the rear of the car. (Just above where the welds are)
It was then just a matter of applying several even light coats and allowing each coat to dry for around 15 minutes.
Once the area was evenly covered the results looked good.
This was left to fully cure and dry.
Note: If applying, the odour of the undersealing application will find its way and affect the main cabin of the car.
This will last several weeks.
Parts Purchased:
Part: Dinitrol Under seal Spray 500ml
Part Number: 4941
Supplier: MTS Trading (on ebay)
Services Used:
None
Resources used
s2ki Thread - "Sealing Rear Bumper Vent"
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/s2000-under-hood-22/le...
Task 50 - Re-install Boot Trim Interior & Hardtop Interior Side Sections
28-12-2018
After several rainfalls and a session of spraying at all angles of the boot, rear bumper panel gaps, rear antenna and the hardtop seals with my portable jet washer, I was confident no further water ingress into the boot area was possible.
It was now time to re-install all the boot trim.
Firstly, the CD changer was removed, as this would make the floor trim easier to install without fighting in and around the CD changer. The spare wheel was also removed.
The CD changer has one troublesome fastening nut which is located underneath the car.
The tie straps were screwed back into place on the rear section of the boot and then the floor interior trim was placed with ease.
All the original clips were still in good condition and so were re-used.
With the floor trim in place, all the surrounding trim can be fitted easily and clipped back into place.
New clips were purchased for the side panel and rear centre section panels as these crumbled when away when they were removed.
The CD changer was re-installed, and the tool set was placed back into the centre section.
The interior pieces for the hardtop was also re-installed, side edging rubber lining was installed on the end section of these interior pieces. This edge is in close proximity to the metal surface of the hardtop so it should help prevent any squeaks or additional interior noises.
High quality stuff from Tegiwa, it installs on the edge of the trim very nicely.
Great for other areas of the car.
Job Done!
Parts Purchased:
Part: Interior Clip
Part Number: Equivalent to Honda 91505-SL0-003, 91505-ST3-E01ZC and 91505-ST7-003ZA
Supplier: 227sparts (Seller on eBay)
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10x-8mm-Honda-Trim-Clip...
Part: Rubber Edging for Interior trim
Part Number: 1-2MM Rubber Edging
Supplier: Tegiwa
Tegiwa 1-2mm Rubber trim Edging
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/UNIVERSAL-BLACK-RUBBER-...
Services Used:
None
Resources used
My Mobi V17 Portable Pressure Washer.
Now also known as Aqua2go.
Task 51 - End of Year 2018 Photo Shoot, Somewhere in Hertfordshire Ware.
29-12-2018
Another year has drawn to a close and with after 8 months of s2000 ownership I can definitely say it has been both a joy and a troublesome experience. However, I guess you can say that is what a project is all about. Despite the issues, the s2000 has stayed true to itself - being a reliable sports car, mechanically It has never let me down.
A quiet disserted industrial estate was found somewhere in Ware, Hertfordshire, to perform an end of year photo shoot.
Parts Purchased:
None
Services Used:
None
Resources used
None
Task 52 - Upgrade OEM Airbox with LHT Modified Version
09-02-2019
From stock, the s2000 does sound great. However, there has always been an urge for that slight air induction growl.
Not wanting to purchase or change the OEM setup, I looked and researched for alternatives.
By removing the top lid cover of the airbox, the intake noise can be achieved but with a sacrifice of power.
The hot temperatures within the engine bay would just be sucked into the air filter, and result in a distinct noticeable loss in power.
As a stock system, the OEM s2000 airbox, despite its size and the fact that it can suck hot air from the radiator is probably one of the best airbox designs.
In my opinion, the stock system looks great and suits the engine bay really well.
I am not keen on those long arm types like the long ram K&N version, it is not very cheap for what it is and it would seem heat soak would be much more worse when compared to the stock airbox. The only upgraded airbox I do like is the JDM password type, but costing nearly £1000 that was definitely a no go.
Several threads and a youtube video describing a small modification to the standard airbox could be the answer.
This youtube video shows this modification step by step in great detail.
I will name it the LHT Airbox Mod.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rJmCg61MOFE
By utilizing the existing airbox and setup, 20% more intake noise can be achieved by simply cutting away the middle partition wall of the main section of the air filter box, blocking up the hole for the additional resonator compartment and removing the air duct guide on the top lid of the cover. These areas are there simply to reduce intake noise.
As my airbox is in mint condition I did not want to hack it up, so I searched for a 2nd hand used one.
It was quite a shock to see that 2nd hand airboxes still fetch good money, with some reaching over the £100 mark.
I managed to source one for £35 posted which was I thought was a great price.
Once received I got to work and performed the modifications.
Removing the partition wall was quite tricky, I created four slots downwards in the partition with a hack saw and just snapped the plastic with a pair of pliers as I moved downwards.
I continued to snap away bits of plastic until I got to the bottom edge. I left around a 10 to 15mm lip, so water can stay within their compartments and drain away as normal.
I didn't have a dremel sander, which would have been super useful and provide a much cleaner finish. However, I did what I could manually with a bit of sand paper.
Once the modifications were complete, I was happy with the results.
The 2nd hand airbox itself was pretty cheap so it was in quite poor condition in terms of aesthetics.
The top lid section was pretty scratched up.
Firstly I had to refurb it a little as it would basically take over as my main airbox, so it had to look good.
The airbox was thoroughly washed and cleaned, with the top lid section sanded down briefly with 1200 grade sand paper to help eliminate the scratches.
Once this was done, the lid was given a coat of spray paint to restore its finish. The spray paint was also used to restore the main airbox body too.
The paint used was Halfords black bumper spray which gave the airbox a distinct matt black finish, very close to OEM. It sprayed and covered the area well.
Once dried, I was really happy with the finished article. It looked neat and tidy for very little effort.
With the airbox being held in by 3 bolts, the swap over was painless and easy. By retaining the original unmodified airbox I could swap over back to stock anytime.
The drop in K&N filter was purchased way back in November during the black Friday discounted deals.
Installation was easy and the filter fitted as perfect as the original.
Job done!
The results are fantastic, I would happily report that there is an approx 20% increase in intake noise compared to the stock airbox. It is not over the top and gives a lovely subtle increase of noise.
Due to the K&N filter having a better air flow than the original paper type, it would seem noise also increases further with this filter.
By retaining the stock airbox, the OEM look with a slight increase in noise and no loss of power, this was exactly what I was looking for.
Parts Purchased:
Part: Genuine Original OEM s2000 Airbox
Part Number: n/a
Supplier: Ebay
Part: K&N Drop In Filter
Part Number: E-2435
Supplier: Tegiwa
Part: Halfords Black Bumper Spray
Part Number: n/a
Supplier: Halfords
https://www.halfords.com/motoring/paints-body-repa...
Services Used:
None
Resources used
Youtube Video
LHT Airbox Mod
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rJmCg61MOFE
Article Comparing Stock Airbox/Lid Removal and LHT Mod
https://motoiq.com/project-s2000-part-20-stock-air...
Task 53 - Investigate Water Leak Through Speaker - (PROBLEM 6)
(Water Ingress Through Speaker Grill)
09-02-2019
On a quick Saturday afternoon drive it was noticed that there was some droplets of water appearing through the passenger side speaker grill.
I couldn't believe it ,yet another water ingress issue on the s2000.
A quick search proved yet again this was another common issue on the s2000.
Not being too bad, it wasn't causing any serious issues within the cabin of the s2000. Carpets were not wet which did show that there wasn't a direct water path and it does seem a slow trickle.
Being a simple design, the door card was swiftly removed. The moisture barrier membrane was still in place with no tears and the speaker itself seemed intact.
No evidence of any apparent water trials to suggest the water was flowing on the back side of the door card. The door card itself was dry with no water damage apparent.
The speaker was removed via 4 self tappers and disconnected.
Water does flow inside the door naturally hence their being drain holes inside the door, however it would appear that water is flowing towards the lower section of the speaker.
(The car is generally parked on an angle in our communal car park, this may aid the flow of water inside the door car towards the speaker)
Further inspection show that the speaker basket contains a gasket seal which should compress against the metal door when positioned in placed. However the gasket fails to seal and a gap is present allow water within the door to flow outwards towards the door card.
Confident that this was the issue, I set about finding a suitable gasket to suitably seal and mate up the speaker basket and door frame.
A good quality neoprene gasket was sourced from work, these are readily available online.
An example link is below.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEOPRENE-SPONGE-FOAM-SE...
f:0
The gasket was cut to long strips similar to the original gasket and then installed around the speaker basket, it compressed well when the speaker was installed.
A quick long water test confirmed that no more water was entering through the speaker grill.
A great result.
Parts Purchased:
Part: Neoprene Foam Gasket
Part Number: n/a
Supplier: Ebay
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEOPRENE-SPONGE-FOAM-SE...f:0
Services Used:
None
Resources used
S2ki thread - Water Through Speaker Grills
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/s2000-talk-1/water-lea...
My Mobi V17 Portable Pressure Washer.
Now also known as Aqua2go.
Task 54 - Refurb Wiper Arms
16-02-2019
As my brother was getting a few of his car parts powder coated, I thought I would grab this opportunity to refurb the wiper arms. New wiper arms are approximately £70 each, with nothing wrong with the current ones it made sense to get them refurbed.
For £10.00 for the pair, it was a no brainer.
A company based in Bovingdon called BJV
(which usually refurbs alloy wheels were the chosen company)
My brother dropped them off on the way to work and with a week's lead time, the process was simple with no hassle.
Once fully fitted, the wipers attached perfectly.
A smear of copper grease was used for the wiper motor's shaft and underside of the wiper arm attachment to prevent any seizing for the future.
The powder coated finish was smooth and consistent throughout the arm, all crevices were evenly covered. A Fantastic result.
Parts Purchased:
None
Services Used:
BJV Engineering
Unit 3, Hatton House, Flaunden Lane, Flaunden, Herts, HP3 0PQ
Tel: 01442 834 169
Email: info@wheelrefurbishing.co.uk
Web: www.wheelrefurbishing.co.uk/
Resources used
None
Task 55 – MOT Time
23-02-2019
Time came for the s2000 to have its first MOT test within my ownership.
Hopefully all the work and checks I have performed have eliminated any chances of a fail.
Great news, the car passed without any advisories.
The emissions were excellent which showed that the catalytic converter and Lambda sensor were working well.
The dude did mention that I had a bolt missing from my catalytic converter heat shield, this was great news as I did hear a slight exhaust rattle at high rpm.
Overall a great result
Parts Purchased:
None
Services Used:
MOT station
Resources used
None
Task 56 - As She Stands
24-02-2019
With the one of the warmest Februaries upon us, there was no excuse to get the car out for a drive on this beautiful Sunday afternoon.
Spirited drive around Hertfordshire's country roads, thoroughly enjoyed every moment.
I didn't have my DLSR camera, so the shots were taken using my Samsung galaxy S6 phone.
Parts Purchased:
None
Services Used:
None
Resources used
None
This brings the car up to date.
There is a small remaining to-do list
To-do List
-Upgrade front brake pads to DS2500 type
-Upgrade front windshield roof latches to hardtop type
-Replace engine and gearbox mounts
Long Term To-Do
-Full Geometry Alignment (once funds allow)
-Upgrade Oil Jet Bolts (Was a TSB on my year of s2000)
Maybe's
-Refurbish All Wheels
Thanks for reading guys
06-03-19
19-11-2018
As soon as the temperatures started to drop I noticed something very odd with the s2000. I occasionally will use the s2000 for work and upon engine start I noticed a slight grind just after the engine fired up.
At first I didn't think anything of it, and thought it was me having my finger on the push start button longer than I should have. As the mornings got colder, I noticed it occurring alot more.
I quickly did a search on the forum, and unfortunately it is a common known issue with the starter motors of all s2000's. It affected all years. (apparently it also affects all k20 engines too)
I was quite disappointed at this, with the s2000 being a flagship car for Honda in its hay day, things like this shouldn't occur. The starter motor part is not cheap with a genuine Honda part coming up at £400. From reading up on several threads, most people tend to just live with it. It does not occur at all in milder or summer weather conditions and as the majority of people tend to only use their s2000's in the summer months it is quite often overlooked.
The issue I have is that the constant grind will eventually cause long term damage to the flywheel, and the grinding sound is truly awful.
The basic reason for the grind is a sticking bendix gear mechanism, the sticking causes a slight delay in retracting the pinion gear after engine start which causes the slight grind.
It is not known if Honda ever knew about this issue, and it is believed the starter motor from Honda was never up-issued or superseded to address the problem at all. So inevitably, if you did change the starter motor it would be only a matter of time until the problem returned again.
With this knowledge, I was intending to just live it with it and not use the car as much during the winter months. However a brand new blueprint s2000 starter motor popped up on eBay, a quick message to the seller I decided to take a punt and did a deal.
I manage to bag it for £35 delivered
Several DIY guides showed that the process to remove and fit a starter motor was quite tricky, doable but tricky. With winter in full motion I decided not to tackle it and have my trusty garage to take care of it.
A quick message to Performance Autoworks, a slot was booked in and the job was done within a couple of hours.
The starter motor worked well upon initial fire, several tests over the next coming days proved that the initial grind had disappeared. A great result all at a great price.
Thanks again to Rich at Performance Autoworks and to the fellow members of s2ki UK forum for help and advice.
Parts Purchased:
Part: s2000 Starter Motor (Blueprint Version)
Blueprint Part Number: ADH21255
Private Ebay Sale: EBay seller "proud2help"
For reference
Genuine Honda Part Number for Starter Motor: 31200-PCX-A02
Services Used:
Performance Autoworks
Performance Autoworks (Fairford/Gloucestershire GL7 4BX)
Contact: Richard Voaden
Tel: 01285 711 733
Email: info@performance-autoworks.co.uk
https://www.facebook.com/pages/Performa ... 1547611908
Resources used
S2ki Thread: "Starter motor grind on cold mornings"
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/uk-ireland-s2000-commu...
Task 42 - Quick Photo Shoot, Somewhere in Fairford.
19-11-2018
Just after the starter motor was replaced, we decided to have a quick blast around the surrounding roads.
A lovely rural car park was found so there was only one thing to do
A quick photo shoot of the car as she stands today.
I didn't have my DLSR camera, so the shots were taken using my Samsung galaxy S6 phone.
Parts Purchased:
None
Services Used:
None
Resources used
None
Task 43 - Investigate Water Leak into Boot - (PROBLEM 3)
(Water Ingress Through Soft Top Hood Drainage Channel)
24-11-2018
Whilst I was washing the s2000 on the weekend, it was noticed that the boot floor on the right hand corner was slightly wet. It was at this instant, I knew I was another victim of the s2000 dreaded water in the boot syndrome.
First task was to strip the boot entirely of its interior trim, all interior trim came out with ease.
There was one tricky bolt securing the OEM CD changer, this attaches the cradle from underneath the chassis. Once removed the main floor trim came out with ease.
Once all the trim was removed, the water also found its way into the main centre section of the boot floor where it had just started to rust.
A quick mop up of the standing water, wire brush with my cordless drill and a couple coats of hammertite paint quickly removed the rust and further protected it.
The condition of the boot was in pretty good shape and there seemed to be no evidence of any crash damage.
With that sorted, the next task was to try and locate the water leak. A quick spray over the hood showed that the water was entering the boot on the back section of the soft top hood. It appeared to be entering with a slow drip just in the corner from the drain gutter channel.
https://youtu.be/0H4RRGVfEqY
The leak was now located but it would be the furthest I could go without dismantling the hood.
It would seem there is a U shaped gutter channel surrounding the back edge of the hood, rain water collects in these channels and directs it to the side of the car.
Photos courtesy of user: Mike’s
With that in mind, my options were either to replace the hood or find a hardtop.
I made some enquiries for the best places for hood replacements, the top ones being Jack Smiths or Monsoon Hoods. I really wanted a hardtop, so the search continued to see if I could get one.
Parts Purchased:
None
Services Used:
None
Resources used
Monsoon Car Hoods
https://www.monsooncarhoods.co.uk/
Jack smith Hoods
https://www.facebook.com/JackRSmithMotorTrimmers/
(Jack smiths does not have a website nor does he communicate via email)
Note: telephone is his only form of communication
Task 44 - Hardtop Purchase
02-12-2018
Whilst browsing the forums and eBay, an s2000 hardtop in Silverstone silver popped up on eBay.
From the images it looked in fabulous condition.
Further enquiries led to additional images and some very minor scratches to the right had side of the hardtop.
There was some minor scratches on the inside upper interior on the passenger side which I didn't mind.
We discussed its pricing and then we struck an agreement.
Overall, for the price it was a fantastic deal, and it would have been too good of a price to pass even with the slight defects.
This would now solve my immediate water leaking issues, I intend to keep the hardtop on until I find the additional funds to replace the hood at a later date.
I've always loved the look of the hardtop, it just completes the fantastic lines of the s2000.
I had a quick look at the original Honda instructions for installing the hardtop, just to be familiar with the process.
The day came to pick up the hardtop. They were based near Bournemouth so it was approx 2 hour drive from home.
It was constantly raining on and off throughout the day, nevertheless, I got there with no drama's or hold ups on the roads and it was great drive. There are some fab roads down there.
The seller was very pleasant and was gutted to let the hardtop go, he had his s2000 for 12 years until he was a victim of the s2000 twitchy rear end. His s2000 was written off.
The hardtop was more fiddly to install than I expected, but the spike brackets lined up great and the front strikers were clamped securely, the revised hardtop strikers will most likely be needed but I will purchase these at a later date. The install was definitely a two person job.
It needs a good clean having been in their garage for many years, but overall I was very pleased with the results.
With the s2000 being a 1999 model, I did not have the circuitry for the rear heater demister, my next task would be to possibly find out if I can get this feature all up and running.
After a few rainy days, it had been confirmed that no further water leakage was entering the boot via the roof area.
However, before re-installing the boot trim the common rear bumper vent will be siliconed up as a precaution.
This to follow at a later task.
Further research shows that a specific loom for the rear heater circuitry has now been discontinued from Honda.
This is specific for the 1999-2001 model of the s2000.
In light of this information, I will be dropping the plans of commissioning the rear demister setup.
Parts Purchased:
Part: s2000 Genuine Hardtop Roof
Honda Part Number: Unknown
Private Sale: EBay seller 2nd Hand
Services Used:
None
Resources used
PDF of hardtop installation Instructions
https://www.handa-accessories.com/s2000/s2k2top.pd...
S2ki thread - Rear Heater Demister Circuitry
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/uk-ireland-s2000-commu...
Task 45 - Investigate Water Leak into Boot - (PROBLEM 4)
(Water Ingress Through Antenna)
07-12-2018
After a few heavy rainfalls I kept monitoring the boot for any further water ingress, to my disappointment another pool of water was present on the right hand side of the boot.
Further checks showed clearly that it was now entering through the rear antenna.
Placing my hand up around the base of the antenna inside the boot, it showed water had been dripping through.
This seemed to be another common water entrance point for the s2000.
To remove the fastening nut that secures the antenna mount and seals, a special tool was required.
The special tool that is required seems to be similar to a 90 degree bent pliers used for removing circlips.
However, within my tool box I located a tool to remove rear back cases of watches.
This was ideal for the job and fitted the fastening nut perfectly.
The fastening nut and all seals were removed and inspected.
All seals were in good condition and no rips or tears were present.
A good clean were given to all components, including the surrounding area of the body work where the seals are positioned.
Shin entsui silicone grease was used to coat the seals to restore its suppleness and flexibility.
Re-assembly was straight forward.
After several rainfalls, no further water ingress was present.
It may have seemed that the cause of the water leakage was a loose fastening nut.
New seals and components were still readily available from Honda and were reasonably priced.
However, the current components were in such good condition, I felt there was no need for replacements.
Parts Purchased:
None
Services Used:
None
Resources used
None
Task 46 - Stereo Removal & Check
18-12-2018
One of the quick easy tasks on the list was to remove the head unit to check for any issues.
The stereo system worked fine, but as this was a very easy task it would be an ideal opportunity to check to see if any dodgy modifications were performed. Especially after seeing the poor execution of the speaker upgrade a while back.
Dealing with anything electronic, it's always ideal to disconnect the main car's battery.
Being an original stereo head unit in known good operating condition, it is not 100% necessary but that is up to you.
The front stereo cover was removed by gently applying outward pressure to the lower section of the cover. The cover pops out revealing the head unit installation screws, 2 self tapers either side of the head unit.
Simply unscrew these and the head unit can be removed. It was that easy.
Thankfully on inspection, it would seem that the head unit has never been touched.
All cabling and wiring are all original, no cutting or splicing was present on any of the ISO block wires.
The head unit's main ISO connector and CD changer connector was unplugged and all its terminals wire brushed and cleaned.
Re-installation was straight forward and a breeze.
Don't forget to re-connect the battery if you disconnected it.
I have no plans in upgrading the stereo, the original system with its original CD changer works fantastic.
Parts Purchased:
None
Services Used:
None
Resources used
Note: If you plan to remove or disconnect the head unit,
Ensure you have the head unit security code to hand, as this will be required upon power up.
(As far as I am aware, all OEM s2000 head units will require a security code if the battery has been disconnected)
Task 47 - Hardtop Clean
18-12-2018
One of the tasks was to deep clean the hardtop, with the previous owner having stored this hardtop in their garage it needed a good clean.
The first task was to hose down and clean the hardtop as normal, detailing brushes were used to remove dirt and grime from the side crevices and all rubber seals and gaskets were wiped down. The latches were thoroughly cleaned with brushes and the headliner was also wiped down.
Being on my own, the hardtop cannot just be removed and placed on the floor to clean, so I had to do what I could with the hardtop slightly unbolted.
Once the hardtop was clean, the rear side interior inner panels were removed, this area was covered in spider webs and dead spiders, it wasn't a pleasant sight. I didn't take a pic of this as I just plodded on in hoovering it all up.
Area now completely clean
Once I was happy with the cleanliness of the hardtop, it was now a case to quickly DA polish the paint work.
I don't have mains power out in the car park, so I had to make use of a DA attachment to a cordless drill.
It is not to bad and useful in removing light marks and blemishes. Meqguries compound polish was used.
After the polishing session, all seals were coated in Shin Entsui silicone grease.
This included the seal which mates to the rear boot lid deck and the seal which mates to the front top section of the windshield. A hardtop will always make noises due to the fact it is not physically part of the car, however siliconing all these seals is highly recommended to help prevent annoying squeaks and rubbing noises.
A rattling noise was also present which was due to the front strikers being the original version and worn out.
Hardtop front striker upgrade will be purchased and installed later to further reduce this hardtop rattling sound.
Parts Purchased:
None
Services Used:
None
Resources used
Meguires DA Drill Attachment Polisher
Task 48 - Investigate Water Leak into Boot - (PROBLEM 5)
(Water Ingress Through Rear Bumper Vent)
28-12-2018
From the previous water ingress issue (Problem 4), the boot was still in a stripped down state as this allowed me to monitor and see if there were any further water ingress issues.
After several checks ,it was confirmed that a very small drip was coming from the rear bumper's one way vent after several heavy rain falls.
Again, this is another common water entry point on all s2000's.
The gasket seal around this vent perishes over time, and can allow water ingress filling up the base pan of the boot.
Due to the tool set being on top of this area, owners tend not to realise that water has been settling underneath for quite some time.
The s2000 is now 20 years old, so it was understandable that this gasket has lost its ability to seal.
To resolve the issue it required the rear bumper to be removed.
On a mild winter's day during the Christmas holidays, I set about to get this sorted.
The rear bumper was removed easily as it was removed on a previous task.
Once the bumper was removed, the vent can be seen. It is unclipped from inside the boot area.
(note: Boot trim to the rear of the car needs to be removed if not already done so)
Once unclipped, the vent can be removed with ease.
The gasket seal was still intact but it was starting to loose its adhesion.
The gasket was peeled away and removed completely.
With the gasket removed, the vent was thoroughly cleaned and checked for any other defects.
Once I was happy no other defects was present, I continued to prep the mating area. This was cleaned and lightly abraded to allow the silicone to adhere to it.
The side clips have to be discarded to allow a flush fit between the vent and chassis.
The silicone chosen for the job was a marine grade type, there are many types of silicone variants available so I wanted one that will last and be a one time job.
I choose Geocel's marine grade type silicone in black.
It was applied to the chassis section and on the vent itself, once applied, the vent was mated up to the chassis.
Force was applied for several minutes to keep it in place and then it held on by itself.
Once cured (24 hours), it gave a superb excellent long lasting seal.
It was then tested and confirmed water tight.
An easy DIY that has now hopefully ended my water ingress issues.
Parts Purchased:
Part: Geocel Marine Silicone (Black Colour)
Part: N/A
Ebay Link
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Geocel-Marine-Silicone-...
Services Used:
None
Resources used
s2ki Thread - "Sealing Rear Bumper Vent"
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/s2000-under-hood-22/le...
Task 49 - Further Rust Proof Base Pan of Boot
28-12-2018
As soon as the bumper vent was completed, I decided to further protect the base pan of the boot just in case water does find its way into the centre section of the boot for long periods of time.
There were many rust proofing options, however I decided to use the left over Dinitrol 4941 underseal spray I used on the rear bumper undersealing.
I had just over half a can of the stuff so it was ideal.
The base pan of the boot was thoroughly wiped down and cleaned to ensure no grease or oils were on the surface. All debris was also hovered up.
The upper boot floor sections were masked off to prevent any over spray, and a suitable boundary was masked off on the section to the rear of the car. (Just above where the welds are)
It was then just a matter of applying several even light coats and allowing each coat to dry for around 15 minutes.
Once the area was evenly covered the results looked good.
This was left to fully cure and dry.
Note: If applying, the odour of the undersealing application will find its way and affect the main cabin of the car.
This will last several weeks.
Parts Purchased:
Part: Dinitrol Under seal Spray 500ml
Part Number: 4941
Supplier: MTS Trading (on ebay)
Services Used:
None
Resources used
s2ki Thread - "Sealing Rear Bumper Vent"
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/s2000-under-hood-22/le...
Task 50 - Re-install Boot Trim Interior & Hardtop Interior Side Sections
28-12-2018
After several rainfalls and a session of spraying at all angles of the boot, rear bumper panel gaps, rear antenna and the hardtop seals with my portable jet washer, I was confident no further water ingress into the boot area was possible.
It was now time to re-install all the boot trim.
Firstly, the CD changer was removed, as this would make the floor trim easier to install without fighting in and around the CD changer. The spare wheel was also removed.
The CD changer has one troublesome fastening nut which is located underneath the car.
The tie straps were screwed back into place on the rear section of the boot and then the floor interior trim was placed with ease.
All the original clips were still in good condition and so were re-used.
With the floor trim in place, all the surrounding trim can be fitted easily and clipped back into place.
New clips were purchased for the side panel and rear centre section panels as these crumbled when away when they were removed.
The CD changer was re-installed, and the tool set was placed back into the centre section.
The interior pieces for the hardtop was also re-installed, side edging rubber lining was installed on the end section of these interior pieces. This edge is in close proximity to the metal surface of the hardtop so it should help prevent any squeaks or additional interior noises.
High quality stuff from Tegiwa, it installs on the edge of the trim very nicely.
Great for other areas of the car.
Job Done!
Parts Purchased:
Part: Interior Clip
Part Number: Equivalent to Honda 91505-SL0-003, 91505-ST3-E01ZC and 91505-ST7-003ZA
Supplier: 227sparts (Seller on eBay)
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10x-8mm-Honda-Trim-Clip...
Part: Rubber Edging for Interior trim
Part Number: 1-2MM Rubber Edging
Supplier: Tegiwa
Tegiwa 1-2mm Rubber trim Edging
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/UNIVERSAL-BLACK-RUBBER-...
Services Used:
None
Resources used
My Mobi V17 Portable Pressure Washer.
Now also known as Aqua2go.
Task 51 - End of Year 2018 Photo Shoot, Somewhere in Hertfordshire Ware.
29-12-2018
Another year has drawn to a close and with after 8 months of s2000 ownership I can definitely say it has been both a joy and a troublesome experience. However, I guess you can say that is what a project is all about. Despite the issues, the s2000 has stayed true to itself - being a reliable sports car, mechanically It has never let me down.
A quiet disserted industrial estate was found somewhere in Ware, Hertfordshire, to perform an end of year photo shoot.
Parts Purchased:
None
Services Used:
None
Resources used
None
Task 52 - Upgrade OEM Airbox with LHT Modified Version
09-02-2019
From stock, the s2000 does sound great. However, there has always been an urge for that slight air induction growl.
Not wanting to purchase or change the OEM setup, I looked and researched for alternatives.
By removing the top lid cover of the airbox, the intake noise can be achieved but with a sacrifice of power.
The hot temperatures within the engine bay would just be sucked into the air filter, and result in a distinct noticeable loss in power.
As a stock system, the OEM s2000 airbox, despite its size and the fact that it can suck hot air from the radiator is probably one of the best airbox designs.
In my opinion, the stock system looks great and suits the engine bay really well.
I am not keen on those long arm types like the long ram K&N version, it is not very cheap for what it is and it would seem heat soak would be much more worse when compared to the stock airbox. The only upgraded airbox I do like is the JDM password type, but costing nearly £1000 that was definitely a no go.
Several threads and a youtube video describing a small modification to the standard airbox could be the answer.
This youtube video shows this modification step by step in great detail.
I will name it the LHT Airbox Mod.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rJmCg61MOFE
By utilizing the existing airbox and setup, 20% more intake noise can be achieved by simply cutting away the middle partition wall of the main section of the air filter box, blocking up the hole for the additional resonator compartment and removing the air duct guide on the top lid of the cover. These areas are there simply to reduce intake noise.
As my airbox is in mint condition I did not want to hack it up, so I searched for a 2nd hand used one.
It was quite a shock to see that 2nd hand airboxes still fetch good money, with some reaching over the £100 mark.
I managed to source one for £35 posted which was I thought was a great price.
Once received I got to work and performed the modifications.
Removing the partition wall was quite tricky, I created four slots downwards in the partition with a hack saw and just snapped the plastic with a pair of pliers as I moved downwards.
I continued to snap away bits of plastic until I got to the bottom edge. I left around a 10 to 15mm lip, so water can stay within their compartments and drain away as normal.
I didn't have a dremel sander, which would have been super useful and provide a much cleaner finish. However, I did what I could manually with a bit of sand paper.
Once the modifications were complete, I was happy with the results.
The 2nd hand airbox itself was pretty cheap so it was in quite poor condition in terms of aesthetics.
The top lid section was pretty scratched up.
Firstly I had to refurb it a little as it would basically take over as my main airbox, so it had to look good.
The airbox was thoroughly washed and cleaned, with the top lid section sanded down briefly with 1200 grade sand paper to help eliminate the scratches.
Once this was done, the lid was given a coat of spray paint to restore its finish. The spray paint was also used to restore the main airbox body too.
The paint used was Halfords black bumper spray which gave the airbox a distinct matt black finish, very close to OEM. It sprayed and covered the area well.
Once dried, I was really happy with the finished article. It looked neat and tidy for very little effort.
With the airbox being held in by 3 bolts, the swap over was painless and easy. By retaining the original unmodified airbox I could swap over back to stock anytime.
The drop in K&N filter was purchased way back in November during the black Friday discounted deals.
Installation was easy and the filter fitted as perfect as the original.
Job done!
The results are fantastic, I would happily report that there is an approx 20% increase in intake noise compared to the stock airbox. It is not over the top and gives a lovely subtle increase of noise.
Due to the K&N filter having a better air flow than the original paper type, it would seem noise also increases further with this filter.
By retaining the stock airbox, the OEM look with a slight increase in noise and no loss of power, this was exactly what I was looking for.
Parts Purchased:
Part: Genuine Original OEM s2000 Airbox
Part Number: n/a
Supplier: Ebay
Part: K&N Drop In Filter
Part Number: E-2435
Supplier: Tegiwa
Part: Halfords Black Bumper Spray
Part Number: n/a
Supplier: Halfords
https://www.halfords.com/motoring/paints-body-repa...
Services Used:
None
Resources used
Youtube Video
LHT Airbox Mod
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rJmCg61MOFE
Article Comparing Stock Airbox/Lid Removal and LHT Mod
https://motoiq.com/project-s2000-part-20-stock-air...
Task 53 - Investigate Water Leak Through Speaker - (PROBLEM 6)
(Water Ingress Through Speaker Grill)
09-02-2019
On a quick Saturday afternoon drive it was noticed that there was some droplets of water appearing through the passenger side speaker grill.
I couldn't believe it ,yet another water ingress issue on the s2000.
A quick search proved yet again this was another common issue on the s2000.
Not being too bad, it wasn't causing any serious issues within the cabin of the s2000. Carpets were not wet which did show that there wasn't a direct water path and it does seem a slow trickle.
Being a simple design, the door card was swiftly removed. The moisture barrier membrane was still in place with no tears and the speaker itself seemed intact.
No evidence of any apparent water trials to suggest the water was flowing on the back side of the door card. The door card itself was dry with no water damage apparent.
The speaker was removed via 4 self tappers and disconnected.
Water does flow inside the door naturally hence their being drain holes inside the door, however it would appear that water is flowing towards the lower section of the speaker.
(The car is generally parked on an angle in our communal car park, this may aid the flow of water inside the door car towards the speaker)
Further inspection show that the speaker basket contains a gasket seal which should compress against the metal door when positioned in placed. However the gasket fails to seal and a gap is present allow water within the door to flow outwards towards the door card.
Confident that this was the issue, I set about finding a suitable gasket to suitably seal and mate up the speaker basket and door frame.
A good quality neoprene gasket was sourced from work, these are readily available online.
An example link is below.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEOPRENE-SPONGE-FOAM-SE...
f:0The gasket was cut to long strips similar to the original gasket and then installed around the speaker basket, it compressed well when the speaker was installed.
A quick long water test confirmed that no more water was entering through the speaker grill.
A great result.
Parts Purchased:
Part: Neoprene Foam Gasket
Part Number: n/a
Supplier: Ebay
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEOPRENE-SPONGE-FOAM-SE...
f:0Services Used:
None
Resources used
S2ki thread - Water Through Speaker Grills
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/s2000-talk-1/water-lea...
My Mobi V17 Portable Pressure Washer.
Now also known as Aqua2go.
Task 54 - Refurb Wiper Arms
16-02-2019
As my brother was getting a few of his car parts powder coated, I thought I would grab this opportunity to refurb the wiper arms. New wiper arms are approximately £70 each, with nothing wrong with the current ones it made sense to get them refurbed.
For £10.00 for the pair, it was a no brainer.
A company based in Bovingdon called BJV
(which usually refurbs alloy wheels were the chosen company)
My brother dropped them off on the way to work and with a week's lead time, the process was simple with no hassle.
Once fully fitted, the wipers attached perfectly.
A smear of copper grease was used for the wiper motor's shaft and underside of the wiper arm attachment to prevent any seizing for the future.
The powder coated finish was smooth and consistent throughout the arm, all crevices were evenly covered. A Fantastic result.
Parts Purchased:
None
Services Used:
BJV Engineering
Unit 3, Hatton House, Flaunden Lane, Flaunden, Herts, HP3 0PQ
Tel: 01442 834 169
Email: info@wheelrefurbishing.co.uk
Web: www.wheelrefurbishing.co.uk/
Resources used
None
Task 55 – MOT Time
23-02-2019
Time came for the s2000 to have its first MOT test within my ownership.
Hopefully all the work and checks I have performed have eliminated any chances of a fail.
Great news, the car passed without any advisories.
The emissions were excellent which showed that the catalytic converter and Lambda sensor were working well.
The dude did mention that I had a bolt missing from my catalytic converter heat shield, this was great news as I did hear a slight exhaust rattle at high rpm.
Overall a great result
Parts Purchased:
None
Services Used:
MOT station
Resources used
None
Task 56 - As She Stands
24-02-2019
With the one of the warmest Februaries upon us, there was no excuse to get the car out for a drive on this beautiful Sunday afternoon.
Spirited drive around Hertfordshire's country roads, thoroughly enjoyed every moment.
I didn't have my DLSR camera, so the shots were taken using my Samsung galaxy S6 phone.
Parts Purchased:
None
Services Used:
None
Resources used
None
This brings the car up to date.
There is a small remaining to-do list
To-do List
-Upgrade front brake pads to DS2500 type
-Upgrade front windshield roof latches to hardtop type
-Replace engine and gearbox mounts
Long Term To-Do
-Full Geometry Alignment (once funds allow)
-Upgrade Oil Jet Bolts (Was a TSB on my year of s2000)
Maybe's
-Refurbish All Wheels
Thanks for reading guys
06-03-19
Thanks for the great response guys
I will endeavour to keep this thread updated.
There is still lots to do, looking forward to when the weather improves.
Did you suffer from any oil starvation issue whilst on track? Does the s2000 need the sump baffled at all?
I really wish I had a garage so I can get much more involved with it.
Its quite minor and have just touched it up for now. It is definitely on my to do list although not really a priority at the moment.
The alignment will probably cost alot so currently preparing for the worse case on that one.
There's a few minor section around the body which If it does go into to the body shop I can rectify all those issues at once.
I have almost had it a year now but feel I have still not enjoyed it to the its fullest yet.
I will endeavour to keep this thread updated.
There is still lots to do, looking forward to when the weather improves.
SiT said:
I have bookmarked this thread as it looks a cracking read!
I owned an ‘04 GT spec car and it was amazing, an experience everytime I drove it. Bought it, did a oil change, drive it The Ring and back and it didn’t put a foot wrong!
Enjoy
Si
Wow, that must have been an epic experience. Thats a trip o my bucket list if I ever have a chance to do it.I owned an ‘04 GT spec car and it was amazing, an experience everytime I drove it. Bought it, did a oil change, drive it The Ring and back and it didn’t put a foot wrong!
Enjoy
Si
Did you suffer from any oil starvation issue whilst on track? Does the s2000 need the sump baffled at all?
spreadsheet monkey said:
Great thread. Interesting to see how easy (or otherwise) these are to work on.
Keep us updated!
Indeed they are, logically put together. The Japanese have always been good at this.Keep us updated!
I really wish I had a garage so I can get much more involved with it.
anxious_ant said:
Lovely read, this is what PH should be about!
Liking how you stick to OEM all the way.
Thanks anxious_ant, there is always an urge though to modify it. Always thought a nice set of Miester R coilovers and perhaps a set of TE37s or Enkei RFP01 would really set the car off - hehe. Alot of money though for those parts. Liking how you stick to OEM all the way.
Gooly said:
Amazing attention to detail. Always wanted one of these
Thanks Gooly, it certainly doesn't disappoint. familyguy1 said:
a great read, thanks for sharing.
One thing I did not but not seen you tackle or mention was the "-Very slight rust appearing on the lower rear quarter of the side sill", is this still pending ?
Well spotted familyguy1 One thing I did not but not seen you tackle or mention was the "-Very slight rust appearing on the lower rear quarter of the side sill", is this still pending ?
Its quite minor and have just touched it up for now. It is definitely on my to do list although not really a priority at the moment.
The alignment will probably cost alot so currently preparing for the worse case on that one.
There's a few minor section around the body which If it does go into to the body shop I can rectify all those issues at once.
cb1965 said:
Stupid thread, way too brief, re-post and be a bit more thorough as to exactly what you did 
Seriously though, a brilliant read and a fantastic example of the marque. Mine was still the best all round ownership experience I have ever had. Should never have sold it.
How comes you sold it?Seriously though, a brilliant read and a fantastic example of the marque. Mine was still the best all round ownership experience I have ever had. Should never have sold it.
I have almost had it a year now but feel I have still not enjoyed it to the its fullest yet.
xjay1337 said:
Get the alignment done... seems silly to spend hundreds and hundreds on other little bits when the alignment is key on an already sketchy car
Also, above poster, the guy is joking................god some people are truly joyless
Thanks xjay1337, the alignment is definitely going to get done. I think I have just avoided it until last as I am scared on the massive cost it will take to rectify it. lol. Hence saving up for the worse case, which I have heard can cost over £1k to sort it out. Also, above poster, the guy is joking................god some people are truly joyless
Tigger2050 said:
Great thread.
Thanks for taking the time to post all this, it is no short matter that's for sure.
Thanks tigger2050, hopefully this thread can inspire people and help them if they have the same car and similar issues.Thanks for taking the time to post all this, it is no short matter that's for sure.
sharifr1 said:
Brilliant thread and great attention to detail!
I had a 2004 GT and it was the best car I've ever owned! I regret selling it! Especially seeing the prices they are going for now.
Thanks Sharifr1, I do love the facelifts. Sometimes I think I should have got a facelift, but as you say they are double the price of the pre-facelifts.I had a 2004 GT and it was the best car I've ever owned! I regret selling it! Especially seeing the prices they are going for now.
How comes you sold it in the end?
s2000_f20 said:
How comes you sold it?
I have almost had it a year now but feel I have still not enjoyed it to the its fullest yet.
Mine was a 2005 in black with red interior. I bought it in 2008 and sold it in 2013 to help finance my SL55 renovation.I have almost had it a year now but feel I have still not enjoyed it to the its fullest yet.
I did 140K in the S2000 in all weathers and outside of consumables it didn't cost me a bean. Way better than the Boxster S I had before it in every way, shape and form. It's one of only 3 cars I regret selling, the others being an Integra Type R DC2 and a Jag XJ8. Ah well.
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