Shed money Clio 172
Discussion
The trip to cadwell involved a lot of country roads, gritters, snow, slush, mud and salt.
End result was that it was as filthy as it's been in my ownership and utterly encrusted in salt.
So it got a good going over. Wheel arches, rear beam, anywhere i could get the nozzle of a jetwash.
When i was cleaning the wheels i wondered how much brake dust had stuck to the bodywork, so i gave the panels a squirt of redline wheel cleaner.
Then panicked as the whole panel quickly went purple.
Much washing, rinsing and polising later and it looks presentable.
Then it poured with rain, which at least meant i got to show off some beading:
End result was that it was as filthy as it's been in my ownership and utterly encrusted in salt.
So it got a good going over. Wheel arches, rear beam, anywhere i could get the nozzle of a jetwash.
When i was cleaning the wheels i wondered how much brake dust had stuck to the bodywork, so i gave the panels a squirt of redline wheel cleaner.
Then panicked as the whole panel quickly went purple.
Much washing, rinsing and polising later and it looks presentable.
Then it poured with rain, which at least meant i got to show off some beading:
PhillipM said:
Which is weird really because it's the same caliper and disc used in loads of french hatches and while they're not great, adjusted and maintained properly the handbrake should be able to lock the rears while moving.
I know I set plenty up to do so
The handbrake did go to about 60 degrees from horizontal, and even then i had to chock the wheels before tightening the wheel nuts, so it definitely needed attention. I know I set plenty up to do so
http://www.cliosportoc.com/article/clio-cup-mot-br...
I just leave a copy of this article in the car when it comes to MOT time - the tester(s) now knows the car and it get passed as a matter of course now.
I just leave a copy of this article in the car when it comes to MOT time - the tester(s) now knows the car and it get passed as a matter of course now.
pincher said:
http://www.cliosportoc.com/article/clio-cup-mot-br...
I just leave a copy of this article in the car when it comes to MOT time - the tester(s) now knows the car and it get passed as a matter of course now.
That’s only on Cup models not normal 182/172’s with ABS etc I just leave a copy of this article in the car when it comes to MOT time - the tester(s) now knows the car and it get passed as a matter of course now.
Great thread OP!
almost glad to see you've experienced most of the issues I have had with 1*2s over the years.. at least I know I am not alone!
The Bird's Clio 172 is going in to get the sills and rear quarters done shortly. I just bought two whole sills and rear quarters off non-sport Clios - they don't have the plastic sill trims, so don't get the mud and water trapped.
Will need to get a check over mine prior to a busy month or so coming up (drag racing/hill climb and trackday hopefully)
almost glad to see you've experienced most of the issues I have had with 1*2s over the years.. at least I know I am not alone!
The Bird's Clio 172 is going in to get the sills and rear quarters done shortly. I just bought two whole sills and rear quarters off non-sport Clios - they don't have the plastic sill trims, so don't get the mud and water trapped.
Will need to get a check over mine prior to a busy month or so coming up (drag racing/hill climb and trackday hopefully)
The clio continues to rattle about, making me smile every time I get to go down a back road.
My wife has been listening to my hints about what I want for my birthday, and I got 5L of finest RN710 fully synthetic Castrol to unwrap. Which made me very happy, especially as I came with a filter and sump plug washer.
So that's in. About 6 months, 1500 miles and two trackdays since the last change.
While I was underneath I tried to track down the source of the oil leak.
There is oil all over the sump.
At on the end at the crank, at the front and down the middle onto the gear change mechanism.
One drop on the lower PS hose, which I'll keep an eye on. All the rest of the oil wasn't PS fluid, so I don't think this is the source.
I cleaned everything, filled it with oil and let it run until the fans kicked in. Not a drop re-emerged. I had left the front on stands to make finding the oil easier.
The only thing I found that might contribute is that there are a couple of sump pan bolts missing, right at the front of the engine...
My wife has been listening to my hints about what I want for my birthday, and I got 5L of finest RN710 fully synthetic Castrol to unwrap. Which made me very happy, especially as I came with a filter and sump plug washer.
So that's in. About 6 months, 1500 miles and two trackdays since the last change.
While I was underneath I tried to track down the source of the oil leak.
There is oil all over the sump.
At on the end at the crank, at the front and down the middle onto the gear change mechanism.
One drop on the lower PS hose, which I'll keep an eye on. All the rest of the oil wasn't PS fluid, so I don't think this is the source.
I cleaned everything, filled it with oil and let it run until the fans kicked in. Not a drop re-emerged. I had left the front on stands to make finding the oil easier.
The only thing I found that might contribute is that there are a couple of sump pan bolts missing, right at the front of the engine...
In total 4 sump pan bolts were missing, all along the front edge of the sump pan. They're an odd size, M7 x25 with a 1mm thread pitch.
They also need to old be done up to 12-14 NM, sadly as I was carefully tightening them up I worked out my old faithful, 20 year old draper torque wrench now only functions as a ratchet.
So a quick trip to tool station later and I've got some shiny hardware in the engine:
All the other bolts were torqued perfectly.
I had left the undertray off and a sheet of cardboard underneath to see how much oil was dripping out. This was after a week (with no driving).
Definitely more than a drop.
So, while I was waiting to see if it would leak I gave the brakes a good clean. There was a binding noise a low speed probably due to the accumulation of brake dust and road crud. So all the pad contact patches got a rub down with some fine sandpaper. All the slider pins were moving, but two felt a bit gritty to they were all pulled out cleaned and re-greased.
They also need to old be done up to 12-14 NM, sadly as I was carefully tightening them up I worked out my old faithful, 20 year old draper torque wrench now only functions as a ratchet.
So a quick trip to tool station later and I've got some shiny hardware in the engine:
All the other bolts were torqued perfectly.
I had left the undertray off and a sheet of cardboard underneath to see how much oil was dripping out. This was after a week (with no driving).
Definitely more than a drop.
So, while I was waiting to see if it would leak I gave the brakes a good clean. There was a binding noise a low speed probably due to the accumulation of brake dust and road crud. So all the pad contact patches got a rub down with some fine sandpaper. All the slider pins were moving, but two felt a bit gritty to they were all pulled out cleaned and re-greased.
Edited by Cambs_Stuart on Sunday 19th June 20:00
320touring said:
Good work on sorting the oil leak!
Slowly but surely I seem to be replacing plenty components on mine. To be fair to it, it does have 175K on it, but it gets a bit tiresome having to part after part most weeks.
However, as you say, get it on a back road and all is forgiven!
I think most 20 year old performance cars that are in daily use will need a bit of TLC. And all track cars need a lot more maintenance than commuters, so it comes with the territory. Slowly but surely I seem to be replacing plenty components on mine. To be fair to it, it does have 175K on it, but it gets a bit tiresome having to part after part most weeks.
However, as you say, get it on a back road and all is forgiven!
I'm looking forward to taking it for a drive. At the moment I'm going out every hour to see if it's dropped any oil. So far it's been 8 hours since I put the new bolts in and one drip has appeared. I think it'll need a new sump gasket, but for the time being I'm relatively happy that it's leaking oil slower than previously.
Edited by Cambs_Stuart on Monday 20th June 08:48
No particular update. I still need to properly fix the sump pan oil leak and patch the hole in the sill.
However, I've just given the clio and the (much neglected) Legacy a good clean and a polish with bilt hamber double speed wax.
It's absolutely fantastic stuff. I was expecting it to be hard work, like my old favorite finshkare, but even it bright sunlight it buffs up a treat!
Only issue is that I've used 3/4 of a tin to do both cars...
However, I've just given the clio and the (much neglected) Legacy a good clean and a polish with bilt hamber double speed wax.
It's absolutely fantastic stuff. I was expecting it to be hard work, like my old favorite finshkare, but even it bright sunlight it buffs up a treat!
Only issue is that I've used 3/4 of a tin to do both cars...
Edited by Cambs_Stuart on Sunday 26th June 13:15
Kaveney said:
What is the wax like is it a buff on and buff of wax ?
Yes, it's a hard paste wax. But it's the easiest I've ever used to apply and polish. Normally if you apply a hard wax in sunlight it dries quickly, goes hazy, and is then tough to buff to a shine. This went on and polished up really nicely, even in direct midday sun. Cambs_Stuart said:
a good clean and a polish with bilt hamber double speed wax.
It's absolutely fantastic stuff. I was expecting it to be hard work, like my old favorite finshkare, but even it bright sunlight it buffs up a treat!
Only issue is that I've used 3/4 of a tin to do both cars...
If you've used that much to do two cars, you must be really over applying it. There's probably enough in the tin to do 30 cars!It's absolutely fantastic stuff. I was expecting it to be hard work, like my old favorite finshkare, but even it bright sunlight it buffs up a treat!
Only issue is that I've used 3/4 of a tin to do both cars...
Application demo video here: https://youtu.be/tS927xnHekg?t=85
The key part is "extremely sparingly" - the damp applicator helps with this.
If you're referring to Finishkare Hi Temp Paste Wax, that's one of the easiest waxes I've ever used, so I expect you were over applying that too..
gweaver said:
If you've used that much to do two cars, you must be really over applying it. There's probably enough in the tin to do 30 cars!
Application demo video here: https://youtu.be/tS927xnHekg?t=85
The key part is "extremely sparingly" - the damp applicator helps with this.
If you're referring to Finishkare Hi Temp Paste Wax, that's one of the easiest waxes I've ever used, so I expect you were over applying that too..
Having watched the video, I am definitely applying too much! I'll be a bit more frugal next time....Application demo video here: https://youtu.be/tS927xnHekg?t=85
The key part is "extremely sparingly" - the damp applicator helps with this.
If you're referring to Finishkare Hi Temp Paste Wax, that's one of the easiest waxes I've ever used, so I expect you were over applying that too..
I'm booked onto the PH track evening at brands on Tuesday, so the clio has had a check over and the blue wheels fitted.
The oil is fresh, and all the fluids where they should be. Plenty of life in the brakes and tread on the tyres.
Having had a good look at the sump gasket I decided I didn't fancy trying to do it at home, so handed the clio over to Bar Hill motors.
I had a peek through the wheel arch and it's a lot cleaner:
I've been recommending the PFC pads to everyone. Their longevity and performance is fantastic. The only downside is that they're not great at normal speeds and the produce a lot of dust. This residue is after 4 treatments of redline wheel cleaner.
So if anyone knows a stronger/better cleaner then let me know.
The oil is fresh, and all the fluids where they should be. Plenty of life in the brakes and tread on the tyres.
Having had a good look at the sump gasket I decided I didn't fancy trying to do it at home, so handed the clio over to Bar Hill motors.
I had a peek through the wheel arch and it's a lot cleaner:
I've been recommending the PFC pads to everyone. Their longevity and performance is fantastic. The only downside is that they're not great at normal speeds and the produce a lot of dust. This residue is after 4 treatments of redline wheel cleaner.
So if anyone knows a stronger/better cleaner then let me know.
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