Maserati Gransport (aka the wedding dress)
Discussion
robsco said:
I bought a 4200 unseen after a few too many G&Ts about six months ago. I loved it that much that I bought a Quattroporte unseen shortly afterwards, intending on keeping the one I preferred. I can't decide so now we have two Maseratis, which is quite handy as you almost always have one of them working.
Don't you really mean "you almost always have one of them almost working"?
Zombie said:
C'mon guys, they really aren't that bad... My brother's 2019 Audi S3 has had more problems and fundamental issues in the last 12 months, So much so, he got rid of it.
I know, but there is a dollop of truth in it, much as there is behind doubts about the day-to-day reliability of electrics in Alfas of a certain age. psi310398 said:
I know, but there is a dollop of truth in it, much as there is behind doubts about the day-to-day reliability of electrics in Alfas of a certain age.
I've also have a 2003 147 GTA that aside from routine maintenance, has only broken down once in the 6+ years I've owned it. Admittedly, the engine ECU had failed but that is a Bosch part and therefore not "alfa electrics" which have been rock solid.https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
Same applies to my 159 tbi. 220,000miles, still going strong:
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
And all 3 of them combined do not amount to the amount of trouble my brother had with his S3!
Engine Management light has made, to a certain extent, an anticipated appearance.
I've been having trouble with it starting when it's hot. Not all the time though. When it does present as an issue, it's definitely because it has flooded. Exhaust smells strongly of petrol and holding the throttle down whilst it's cranking usually helps it spring into life on 4 cylinders then 6, then 8...
In addition, the high speed fans have been running from a cold start up meaning the engine doesn't get up to temperature. Again, like the hot starting, it is intermittent.
I was sure that the 2 problems were related. I checked the fault code and it has just the 1, P0128 - Coolant Temperature Below Thermostat Regulating Temperature.
Clearing it resulted in the high speed fans turning off. It's also the high speed fans that are keeping the coolant temp low, not the stat as when they're off it gets up to 90 deg and stays there.
However, I would also imagine that the stat stays closed until the engine is up to temperature then opens allowing the colder coolant in the radiator to circulate, so my logic could be flawed.
I've also checked the live data and the engine coolant temp climbs and corresponds with the dash temp, so I don't think there is a problem with the sensor. Although I'm not ruling this out either as some sensors have two circuits - one for the engine ecu and one feeding the gauge. The code reader could be picking up the signal from the gauge I guess.
I've bought a temp sensor and I'm going to see if replacing it changes anything.
Beyond that I'm thinking it may be a problem with the relay controlling the high speed fans / bodged wiring to them.
I've been having trouble with it starting when it's hot. Not all the time though. When it does present as an issue, it's definitely because it has flooded. Exhaust smells strongly of petrol and holding the throttle down whilst it's cranking usually helps it spring into life on 4 cylinders then 6, then 8...
In addition, the high speed fans have been running from a cold start up meaning the engine doesn't get up to temperature. Again, like the hot starting, it is intermittent.
I was sure that the 2 problems were related. I checked the fault code and it has just the 1, P0128 - Coolant Temperature Below Thermostat Regulating Temperature.
Clearing it resulted in the high speed fans turning off. It's also the high speed fans that are keeping the coolant temp low, not the stat as when they're off it gets up to 90 deg and stays there.
However, I would also imagine that the stat stays closed until the engine is up to temperature then opens allowing the colder coolant in the radiator to circulate, so my logic could be flawed.
I've also checked the live data and the engine coolant temp climbs and corresponds with the dash temp, so I don't think there is a problem with the sensor. Although I'm not ruling this out either as some sensors have two circuits - one for the engine ecu and one feeding the gauge. The code reader could be picking up the signal from the gauge I guess.
I've bought a temp sensor and I'm going to see if replacing it changes anything.
Beyond that I'm thinking it may be a problem with the relay controlling the high speed fans / bodged wiring to them.
Edited by Zombie on Friday 10th April 22:28
Zombie said:
I was thinking that too but apparently it just has the one circuit.
It's got to be worth rooting around under there and find out for sure. Logic woud dictate that if the gauge is giving expected readings then the coolant sensor is fine, and your flooding issue/fan problem is elsewhere. A coolant sensor would make perfect sense for flooding on hot starts if the ECU thinks the car is cold though... Did you say it only happens on one bank of cylinders? Possibly a sensor for each?Gallons Per Mile said:
It's got to be worth rooting around under there and find out for sure. Logic woud dictate that if the gauge is giving expected readings then the coolant sensor is fine, and your flooding issue/fan problem is elsewhere. A coolant sensor would make perfect sense for flooding on hot starts if the ECU thinks the car is cold though... Did you say it only happens on one bank of cylinders? Possibly a sensor for each?
There's only one sensor and I've had a new one sat in the shed for a while now but it looks like a PITA to change. But, I agree, it's definitely worth changing.My Dad and I have made some progress with the Maserfarti, despite lockdown. Whilst parts have been relatively easy to source, I'm classed as a Critical Worker and have been working full time, albeit from home, as a result.
To be clear, I'm not complaining, I recognise I have relative job security which is better than anyone can hope for at the moment. I'm just trying to put the amount of time we've spent working on it into context.
The first job I takled since my last post was doing something about the horrible number plates. I've always hated UK the number plate style, particularly the mustard yellow rear plate but the blue Country Identifier just makes them look worse. Despite this, it's taken till June this year for me to do something about it.
I also, perhaps foolishly decided to order smaller plates. I was going to keep the rear the standard size and go for a slightly smaller front plate but 4 cans of lager got the better of me and I went for smaller front and rear.
In what was to become a re-occuing theme, fitting them took longer than I thought. I pulled the number plates off and was greeted with this, from and rear....
IMG_6384 by Chris, on Flickr
And a simple job turned in to 4 hours of cleaning numerous bits of adhesive off with isopropyl alcohol and several raw digits....
Looks better though;
IMG_3646 by Chris, on Flickr
(It started raining. Another recurring theme...)
IMG_3766 by Chris, on Flickr
Next up was a couple more simple jobs, change the thermostat (suspect for the hot start issues) Temp sender (cheap generic part so why not?), fresh oil, filter and pollen filter. I was expecting it to take a day, weekend max....
We started with the thermostat. It was kind of a chicken/egg thing as the thermostat is buried and changing it with the engine hot would've been impossible. The down side being the engine oil wouldn't be hot when we drained that.
The 'stat is located on the offside of the car. You can see it from the top;
IMG_3647 by Chris, on Flickr
It's under the hoses.... The larger hose with braided protection leads to it...
IMG_3648 by Chris, on Flickr
You can also see the temp sender which is in the same location:
IMG_3651 by Chris, on Flickr
IMG_3650 by Chris, on Flickr
Access to bot is found from underneath and through the OS wheel well:
IMG_3739 by Chris, on Flickr
IMG_3659 by Chris, on Flickr
IMG_3735 by Chris, on Flickr
Changing the temp sender was relatively easy after finding a 19mm socket that was deep enough - + 1hr...
IMG_3746 by Chris, on Flickr
IMG_3734 by Chris, on Flickr
IMG_3745 by Chris, on Flickr
Removing the hose to the thermostat, however, was an absolute bar-steward. It's very short and lacks the room/ flexibility to disconnect it as a result.
It was also welded to the thermostat with corrosion and gunge as per the norm;
IMG_3750 by Chris, on Flickr
IMG_3747 by Chris, on Flickr
IMG_3752 by Chris, on Flickr
IMG_3753 by Chris, on Flickr
It took an hour to remove the hose. And this is where the haynes manual, if it existed, would say "Simply remove the 3 bolts retaining the thermostat".
Access to 2 of the bolts is ok-ish. The 3rd is obscured by the the outlet from the thermostat itself. Problem was, someone had been there before me, and rounded off ALL 3 of the 5mm hex head bolts.
Removing them took 4 hours.
With the stat removed it became apparent that the replacement thermostat didn't come with a new seal and that the one fitted to the old one was not OE and most likely a reused seal from the oil filter - they're almost the same diameter.
IMG_3758 by Chris, on Flickr
It was at this point we decided to call it a day.. Simple job...
To be clear, I'm not complaining, I recognise I have relative job security which is better than anyone can hope for at the moment. I'm just trying to put the amount of time we've spent working on it into context.
The first job I takled since my last post was doing something about the horrible number plates. I've always hated UK the number plate style, particularly the mustard yellow rear plate but the blue Country Identifier just makes them look worse. Despite this, it's taken till June this year for me to do something about it.
I also, perhaps foolishly decided to order smaller plates. I was going to keep the rear the standard size and go for a slightly smaller front plate but 4 cans of lager got the better of me and I went for smaller front and rear.
In what was to become a re-occuing theme, fitting them took longer than I thought. I pulled the number plates off and was greeted with this, from and rear....
IMG_6384 by Chris, on FlickrAnd a simple job turned in to 4 hours of cleaning numerous bits of adhesive off with isopropyl alcohol and several raw digits....
Looks better though;
IMG_3646 by Chris, on Flickr(It started raining. Another recurring theme...)
IMG_3766 by Chris, on FlickrNext up was a couple more simple jobs, change the thermostat (suspect for the hot start issues) Temp sender (cheap generic part so why not?), fresh oil, filter and pollen filter. I was expecting it to take a day, weekend max....
We started with the thermostat. It was kind of a chicken/egg thing as the thermostat is buried and changing it with the engine hot would've been impossible. The down side being the engine oil wouldn't be hot when we drained that.
The 'stat is located on the offside of the car. You can see it from the top;
IMG_3647 by Chris, on FlickrIt's under the hoses.... The larger hose with braided protection leads to it...
IMG_3648 by Chris, on FlickrYou can also see the temp sender which is in the same location:
IMG_3651 by Chris, on FlickrIMG_3650 by Chris, on FlickrAccess to bot is found from underneath and through the OS wheel well:
IMG_3739 by Chris, on FlickrIMG_3659 by Chris, on FlickrIMG_3735 by Chris, on FlickrChanging the temp sender was relatively easy after finding a 19mm socket that was deep enough - + 1hr...
IMG_3746 by Chris, on FlickrIMG_3734 by Chris, on FlickrIMG_3745 by Chris, on FlickrRemoving the hose to the thermostat, however, was an absolute bar-steward. It's very short and lacks the room/ flexibility to disconnect it as a result.
It was also welded to the thermostat with corrosion and gunge as per the norm;
IMG_3750 by Chris, on FlickrIMG_3747 by Chris, on FlickrIMG_3752 by Chris, on FlickrIMG_3753 by Chris, on FlickrIt took an hour to remove the hose. And this is where the haynes manual, if it existed, would say "Simply remove the 3 bolts retaining the thermostat".
Access to 2 of the bolts is ok-ish. The 3rd is obscured by the the outlet from the thermostat itself. Problem was, someone had been there before me, and rounded off ALL 3 of the 5mm hex head bolts.
Removing them took 4 hours.
With the stat removed it became apparent that the replacement thermostat didn't come with a new seal and that the one fitted to the old one was not OE and most likely a reused seal from the oil filter - they're almost the same diameter.
IMG_3758 by Chris, on FlickrIt was at this point we decided to call it a day.. Simple job...
I hate to admit that reading this, having been through many of the same sorts of pains on other cars made me wince. Nights under the car with a spot lamp and wishing I had an extra elbow in my arm etc.
And yet...it’s kinda fun once. It’s over isn’t it?
Unfortunately when you made the revelation ‘it came from Hong Kong’, I knew there would be more bodges to find.
Car tax is massive in HK (over 50k gbp you pay 110pc tax...A boxster gts is 150k gbp) so generally, the first owner will either really look after the car, but take a massive hit when getting rid, or be wealthy enough to hat they don’t care what happens to it and it’s disposable.
Buying second hand is frowned upon for luck / face reasons, so you can pick up second hand cars cheaply, but partly because nobody trusts the maintenance. I’ve even heard of engines being replaced with lower spec units from the same model line. There are a few guys who really know what they’re doing but most of the mechanics will just work on whatever comes through the door, so you’ll see a 355 on a ramp above a Toyota Prius.
I’m considering buying a car IN Hong Kong, but I’d never buy one FROM here.
Of course the benefit of a car from here, all that said, is that with only 1500 miles of road, most cars do bugger all except drive through central or head to Shek O beach at the weekend. Check out a website called Black Cygnus, you might even find pictures of yours, if you know when it was here.
Great that you’re able to start sorting the issues out - really well documented, I’ve enjoyed reading the thread!
And yet...it’s kinda fun once. It’s over isn’t it?
Unfortunately when you made the revelation ‘it came from Hong Kong’, I knew there would be more bodges to find.
Car tax is massive in HK (over 50k gbp you pay 110pc tax...A boxster gts is 150k gbp) so generally, the first owner will either really look after the car, but take a massive hit when getting rid, or be wealthy enough to hat they don’t care what happens to it and it’s disposable.
Buying second hand is frowned upon for luck / face reasons, so you can pick up second hand cars cheaply, but partly because nobody trusts the maintenance. I’ve even heard of engines being replaced with lower spec units from the same model line. There are a few guys who really know what they’re doing but most of the mechanics will just work on whatever comes through the door, so you’ll see a 355 on a ramp above a Toyota Prius.
I’m considering buying a car IN Hong Kong, but I’d never buy one FROM here.
Of course the benefit of a car from here, all that said, is that with only 1500 miles of road, most cars do bugger all except drive through central or head to Shek O beach at the weekend. Check out a website called Black Cygnus, you might even find pictures of yours, if you know when it was here.
Great that you’re able to start sorting the issues out - really well documented, I’ve enjoyed reading the thread!
Moving on to the 2nd day of slow progress...
A new thermostat seal was ordered from Scuderia for a princely sum of £6 and we decided to change the oil, oil filter and the pollen filter thinking it would be easy enough...
A quick test of the thermostat did indeed reveal that it wasn't working properly
IMG_3754 by Chris, on Flickr
Which confirmed the fault code - slow to warm up.
I've driven about 200miles init following all the work we did over the last few weeks and the hot start problem and associated drop into limp mode has not reoccured, so I think this was the problem and the engine management logic being;
Engine is slow to warm up.
It should be x temp after y amount of time given ambient temp of z.
Therefore there is either a problem with the temp sender under reading
or
The thermostat has failed.
Worse case is the temp sender is under reading and the engine is running hot. Therefore turn the engine fans on, limit power and over fuel the engine in order to protect it.
This is why we felt that the engine oil should be changed as it was likely causing some bore wash.
With the engine being dry sumped, it has two drain plugs. On in the oil tank which is located on the offside of the car at the front;
IMG_3739 by Chris, on Flickr
IMG_3773 by Chris, on Flickr
And the other in the conventional location;
IMG_3775 by Chris, on Flickr
IMG_3777 by Chris, on Flickr
The was about 4 litres in both the sump and the tank which were left to drain for a couple of hours. As well as lower one side and then the other, we also lput the wheel back on and lowered the car to the floor to ensure as much of it was realeased.
IMG_3771 by Chris, on Flickr
The manual suggests that 7.3l of oil is required to refill it so dropping the oil whilst it was cold (no thermostat so we couldn't start it) didn't cause a problem.
There's nothing special about either of the sump plugs and the copper washers are a standard size which meant my Dad was able to provide some new ones out of his selection.
IMG_3779 by Chris, on Flickr
Obviously the next step was the oil filter. Again, it is on the offside of the engine, mounted longitudinally along side the block - photo was taken from behind the front axle line, looking towards the front of the car;
IMG_3806 by Chris, on Flickr
Access is relatively good for a hand, but it is all but impossible to get an oil filter wrench on it. Which is fine if it is hand tight.
As I am labouring the point, it obviously wasn't. It was silly tight and took 4 hours of swearing, removing brackets and 4 different types of removal tool to finally get the f
g thing undone;
IMG_3817 by Chris, on Flickr
The amount of damage to it is testament to the amount of torque it took to undo it;
IMG_3808 by Chris, on Flickr
After making sure that the old filter was the correct part and the new filter was too, refitting the new one was a simple task - fortunately.
IMG_3813 by Chris, on Flickr
The difference between two filters available for the 4.2 v8 is explained in the short video below;
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-p0SDwst1Fc
The difficulty with refilling the engine with oil is, with it being dry sumped, the level is to be checked when the oil is warm (it expands). I expect that the specified 7.3l is enough though.
Just so that oil nerds know, I refilled it with the manufacturer recommended brand, which isn't cheap - 9 litres...
IMG_3823 by Chris, on Flickr
( As a point of interest, the spider type (or planetary) oil filter tool in the above pic is the only one that could be used on the filter...)
After starting it and and rechecking it as it warmed up, it took about 8.2l to refill it which is about what came what out of it. And I've not had to top it up during the time I've had it, which is reassuring.
A new thermostat seal was ordered from Scuderia for a princely sum of £6 and we decided to change the oil, oil filter and the pollen filter thinking it would be easy enough...
A quick test of the thermostat did indeed reveal that it wasn't working properly
IMG_3754 by Chris, on FlickrWhich confirmed the fault code - slow to warm up.
I've driven about 200miles init following all the work we did over the last few weeks and the hot start problem and associated drop into limp mode has not reoccured, so I think this was the problem and the engine management logic being;
Engine is slow to warm up.
It should be x temp after y amount of time given ambient temp of z.
Therefore there is either a problem with the temp sender under reading
or
The thermostat has failed.
Worse case is the temp sender is under reading and the engine is running hot. Therefore turn the engine fans on, limit power and over fuel the engine in order to protect it.
This is why we felt that the engine oil should be changed as it was likely causing some bore wash.
With the engine being dry sumped, it has two drain plugs. On in the oil tank which is located on the offside of the car at the front;
IMG_3739 by Chris, on FlickrIMG_3773 by Chris, on FlickrAnd the other in the conventional location;
IMG_3775 by Chris, on FlickrIMG_3777 by Chris, on FlickrThe was about 4 litres in both the sump and the tank which were left to drain for a couple of hours. As well as lower one side and then the other, we also lput the wheel back on and lowered the car to the floor to ensure as much of it was realeased.
IMG_3771 by Chris, on FlickrThe manual suggests that 7.3l of oil is required to refill it so dropping the oil whilst it was cold (no thermostat so we couldn't start it) didn't cause a problem.
There's nothing special about either of the sump plugs and the copper washers are a standard size which meant my Dad was able to provide some new ones out of his selection.
IMG_3779 by Chris, on FlickrObviously the next step was the oil filter. Again, it is on the offside of the engine, mounted longitudinally along side the block - photo was taken from behind the front axle line, looking towards the front of the car;
IMG_3806 by Chris, on FlickrAccess is relatively good for a hand, but it is all but impossible to get an oil filter wrench on it. Which is fine if it is hand tight.
As I am labouring the point, it obviously wasn't. It was silly tight and took 4 hours of swearing, removing brackets and 4 different types of removal tool to finally get the f
g thing undone;IMG_3817 by Chris, on FlickrThe amount of damage to it is testament to the amount of torque it took to undo it;
IMG_3808 by Chris, on FlickrAfter making sure that the old filter was the correct part and the new filter was too, refitting the new one was a simple task - fortunately.
IMG_3813 by Chris, on FlickrThe difference between two filters available for the 4.2 v8 is explained in the short video below;
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-p0SDwst1Fc
The difficulty with refilling the engine with oil is, with it being dry sumped, the level is to be checked when the oil is warm (it expands). I expect that the specified 7.3l is enough though.
Just so that oil nerds know, I refilled it with the manufacturer recommended brand, which isn't cheap - 9 litres...
IMG_3823 by Chris, on Flickr( As a point of interest, the spider type (or planetary) oil filter tool in the above pic is the only one that could be used on the filter...)
After starting it and and rechecking it as it warmed up, it took about 8.2l to refill it which is about what came what out of it. And I've not had to top it up during the time I've had it, which is reassuring.
In the meanwhile, the other simple job was the pollen filter which is accessed through the windscreen scuttle...
In order to gain access to the filter you have to remove, by my count, an absurd 36 individual fastenings, starting with both windscreen wipers. Both of which were seized and required an hour of genuinely gentle persuasion.
IMG_3782 by Chris, on Flickr
It doesn't look like the driver's side wider needs to come off, does it? It does, because you can't withdraw the filter without removing the wiper motor mechanism:
IMG_3783 by Chris, on Flickr
IMG_3781 by Chris, on Flickr
IMG_3787 by Chris, on Flickr
IMG_3788 by Chris, on Flickr
IMG_3795 by Chris, on Flickr
And the shield above the cabin air intake;
IMG_3798 by Chris, on Flickr
IMG_3799 by Chris, on Flickr
As you might expect, it hadn't been related for a while;
IMG_3789 by Chris, on Flickr
And the housing was also full of gunge, spiders and general decaying matter;
IMG_3790 by Chris, on Flickr
But none of the standard hoover attachments have sufficient depth to suck out said debris. This, after the aforementioned 36 fixings required the jerryrigging of a suitable hoover adaptor. It looks simple enough but it took my Dad an hour to fabricate out of the materials available to him;
IMG_3792 by Chris, on Flickr
Nice, new, filter;
IMG_3794 by Chris, on Flickr
IMG_3796 by Chris, on Flickr
and another hour of hoovering and cleaning;
IMG_3801 by Chris, on Flickr
And another, "simple", "routine" task completed...
In order to gain access to the filter you have to remove, by my count, an absurd 36 individual fastenings, starting with both windscreen wipers. Both of which were seized and required an hour of genuinely gentle persuasion.
IMG_3782 by Chris, on FlickrIt doesn't look like the driver's side wider needs to come off, does it? It does, because you can't withdraw the filter without removing the wiper motor mechanism:
IMG_3783 by Chris, on FlickrIMG_3781 by Chris, on FlickrIMG_3787 by Chris, on FlickrIMG_3788 by Chris, on FlickrIMG_3795 by Chris, on FlickrAnd the shield above the cabin air intake;
IMG_3798 by Chris, on FlickrIMG_3799 by Chris, on FlickrAs you might expect, it hadn't been related for a while;
IMG_3789 by Chris, on FlickrAnd the housing was also full of gunge, spiders and general decaying matter;
IMG_3790 by Chris, on FlickrBut none of the standard hoover attachments have sufficient depth to suck out said debris. This, after the aforementioned 36 fixings required the jerryrigging of a suitable hoover adaptor. It looks simple enough but it took my Dad an hour to fabricate out of the materials available to him;
IMG_3792 by Chris, on FlickrNice, new, filter;
IMG_3794 by Chris, on FlickrIMG_3796 by Chris, on Flickrand another hour of hoovering and cleaning;
IMG_3801 by Chris, on FlickrAnd another, "simple", "routine" task completed...
That was it for the weekend. We couldn't go any further with it without the requisite seal for the thermostat which arrived on the following Tuesday.
Obviously, being maserfarti-less for getting on for a week during gloriously hot weather, I put my excited hat on, finished work early and ran over to my Mum and Dad's house to put it back together.
IMG_3801 by Chris, on Flickr
And, yet again, it was another 4 hour faff to fit it as the jubilee clips holding the 2 hoses I'd removed to access the 'stat were all shagged.
And the whole time the sky in the distance was black and thunderous;
IMG_3844 by Chris, on Flickr
It remained dry though.
I said to my Dad, give the menacing sky I'd just take it home and bung it in the garage, but we both talked myself into a quick test-drive.
5 miles down the local test route and approaching a roundabout in the middle of nowhere, it started raining in terms that could only be described as "biblical". The road was flooded within 30 seconds with standing water 2" deep, and with pilot sport cup tyres (minimal tread depth from new) the maserfarti was living up to it's name.
After disengaging the obstructive traction control and crawling home at 20-30mph, virtually by brail as the road had all but disappeared from view, I got it home unscathed.
To find my brother, who unknown to me, had passed me in the opposite direction with a food deliver for my Mun and Dad in his 2020 X440d M whatever genuinely trying to hide a smug grin.... I knew he would likely be on the same road in the opposite direction, he didn't. I was looking for him, he wasn't. I didn't even catch a glimpse of him, his comment was something like, oh, yeah I saw you crawling along the other way with your wipers on full blast, I didn't think it was that bad...
Obviously, being maserfarti-less for getting on for a week during gloriously hot weather, I put my excited hat on, finished work early and ran over to my Mum and Dad's house to put it back together.
IMG_3801 by Chris, on FlickrAnd, yet again, it was another 4 hour faff to fit it as the jubilee clips holding the 2 hoses I'd removed to access the 'stat were all shagged.
And the whole time the sky in the distance was black and thunderous;
IMG_3844 by Chris, on FlickrIt remained dry though.
I said to my Dad, give the menacing sky I'd just take it home and bung it in the garage, but we both talked myself into a quick test-drive.
5 miles down the local test route and approaching a roundabout in the middle of nowhere, it started raining in terms that could only be described as "biblical". The road was flooded within 30 seconds with standing water 2" deep, and with pilot sport cup tyres (minimal tread depth from new) the maserfarti was living up to it's name.
After disengaging the obstructive traction control and crawling home at 20-30mph, virtually by brail as the road had all but disappeared from view, I got it home unscathed.
To find my brother, who unknown to me, had passed me in the opposite direction with a food deliver for my Mun and Dad in his 2020 X440d M whatever genuinely trying to hide a smug grin.... I knew he would likely be on the same road in the opposite direction, he didn't. I was looking for him, he wasn't. I didn't even catch a glimpse of him, his comment was something like, oh, yeah I saw you crawling along the other way with your wipers on full blast, I didn't think it was that bad...
Edited by Zombie on Monday 29th June 01:23
supacool1 said:
Epic Read. Top work and commend you on your patience and skills. I would highly recommend Rain X or similar on the glass. It's like night and day. Keep up the good work 
Thanks, good point, I do need to reapply some rain-x...markirl said:
Great thread, can't believe I missed it before! Love the car and your dad seems like an absolute hero
Thanks, he really is. I don't know what I'd do without him.One thing I have noticed, when the heated rear window is on (I forgot to turn it off) the window refracts light. i.e. If I look in the mirror with it on, what should be straight lines are offset where the wires cross the screen? I hope that makes sense....
Has anyone come across this?
Has anyone come across this?
Zombie said:
One thing I have noticed, when the heated rear window is on (I forgot to turn it off) the window refracts light. i.e. If I look in the mirror with it on, what should be straight lines are offset where the wires cross the screen? I hope that makes sense....
Has anyone come across this?
Yes, but on the windscreen of my L322 Range Rover. This had the patented Ford heated screen. Has anyone come across this?
The otherwise very discreet filaments became much more visible when the heat was on and funny (but marginal with regards to overall visibility) things happened with the optics. I'd regularly treat it with Rain-X if that might explain it.
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