2008 BMW 335d E91

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Jakg

Original Poster:

3,451 posts

167 months

Saturday 16th January 2021
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I've been getting this message recently



But I've been ignoring it, assuming that it's just lack of use.

The other day I drove for about half an hour, stopped for 10 mins and when I got back in the car it came up, so I figured I had an actual problem.

It's meant to indicate a parasitic battery draw - but looking online a bad battery can cause similar problems as it discharges quicker than expected.

I've not had any real problems starting the car in regular use (but have when it's been left while working on it).

The battery had no visible dates so I took a chance and replaced it.

Although the car doesn't have stop start, it has "Brake Energy Regeneration" (i.e. selective charging), which means it needs an AGM battery.
Normally I'd get a Bosch S5 / Varta one, but it was £180.
I found a Yuasa for £140, but it turns out that the Halfords battery has identical specs, is also made by Yuasa, has a longer warranty and was £148 so I went for that.

No pictures, but it's big!



Removing the old battery isn't too hard, but it's quite awkward, so I had a spare pair of hands for a change.



Couldn't see a date at all on the battery, and it's not an AGM battery either.

Because of the IBS (Intelligent Battery System), the car needs to know what battery is fitted (i.e. it's type), and the car needs to know a new battery has been installed.
The type of battery was still listed as an AGM so I wonder if maybe my problems were just that the battery hadn't been properly registered to the car when installed.

All registered and not only have I not had the problem come up since, but it seems to start quicker too.
I can also now make use of the "Rest" functionality, where the interior fans stay on with the ignition off, without worrying about the car having a fit!

NiallSlimDrew

25 posts

85 months

Monday 18th January 2021
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Lovely read that mate. I run a E90 330d with a remap as a daily and that is pretty quick, I've always wondered just how much quicker the 335d is, maybe I'll find out one day - not sure I'd buy one though!

This is a bit random but I used to race with you on Live For Speed way back when! We were both big posters on the forum too - My licence name was The General Lee, not sure if you would remember me. Nice to "see" you again and you're doing well for yourself mate!

Court_S

12,764 posts

176 months

Thursday 21st January 2021
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The old electric boot lid release....I discovered that the hard way when changing the seats in my other half’s old 116. Luckily it was easy enough to get back in and reconnect the battery.

I’ve just had to replace the battery on her 125i. A genuine BMW one wasn’t actually too expensive (£164 delivered from Cotswold but I cheaped out and bought one from Tayna).

Edited by Court_S on Tuesday 7th September 09:51

Jakg

Original Poster:

3,451 posts

167 months

Thursday 18th March 2021
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Metal coolant bleed screw



And some HEL braided front brake lines


helix402

7,832 posts

181 months

Saturday 17th April 2021
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Just re read this after purchasing a 335d. I’ll be doing some similar work. Thanks for the thread.

Jakg

Original Poster:

3,451 posts

167 months

Tuesday 20th April 2021
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Rear tyres been losing pressure, couldn't see anything but when put in the bath...



I was about to try one of those string repair tools until I realised it was right on the edge



All of the tyres are bad, and the wheels aren't great either, so I had a choice.



I priced up some new rear tyres - not a great selection in this size (255/40/17) and so they are quite expensive.

But I'm waiting to move, and was terrified I'd end up with a car stuck on the drive.





£280 later - slightly rushed purchase as I'm waiting to move and the car was stuck.
Condition is ok, not great but presentable and better than what I have.
Tyres are quite new, but budgets (Debica) - but at least they are a full set.

Quick clean



And looking pretty decent



With the car up in the air I also changed the oil, early based on the schedule.

Filters meant to be done up to 25nm but needed a breaker bar to loosen, always a good sign.
The o-ring on the filter housing was completely flat - I wonder when that was last replaced...





Thought I'd save some money buying the oil 20L at a time.
Bought it last year but despite being sold as low-SAPS, it doesn't appear to be - ooops. Luckily I can use it in the other cars.
Plus, it's easy to pour the oil from a 5L container - less trying to get it out of this one without spilling it everywhere. Should make a nice container for used engine oil when empty though.
Sump plug swapped for a magnetic one.

d_a_n1979

8,087 posts

71 months

Tuesday 20th April 2021
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Looks well on those 18s cool

Are they one of the MV alloys (always get them confused)?

What the feck are the tyres? laugh Never heard of them... More ditchfinders, or are they part of one of the larger tyre makers, just with a non-brand name?

Jakg

Original Poster:

3,451 posts

167 months

Tuesday 20th April 2021
quotequote all
d_a_n1979 said:
Are they one of the MV alloys (always get them confused)?
MV3's
d_a_n1979 said:
What the feck are the tyres? laugh Never heard of them... More ditchfinders, or are they part of one of the larger tyre makers, just with a non-brand name?
Their website said:
Tire Company Dębica S.A. is a leading Polish manufacturer of tires for passenger cars, vans and trucks.
{...}
The company produces tires both of its own brand Dębica and of other brands of the Goodyear concern, including Goodyear, Dunlop, Fulda, Sava. In addition, Debica tires are manufactured by other production facilities owned by Goodyear. Tire Company Dębica S.A. is also a manufacturer of curing membranes for the production of tires.
Not convinced...

d_a_n1979

8,087 posts

71 months

Tuesday 20th April 2021
quotequote all
Jakg said:
d_a_n1979 said:
Are they one of the MV alloys (always get them confused)?
MV3's
d_a_n1979 said:
What the feck are the tyres? laugh Never heard of them... More ditchfinders, or are they part of one of the larger tyre makers, just with a non-brand name?
Their website said:
Tire Company D?bica S.A. is a leading Polish manufacturer of tires for passenger cars, vans and trucks.
{...}
The company produces tires both of its own brand D?bica and of other brands of the Goodyear concern, including Goodyear, Dunlop, Fulda, Sava. In addition, Debica tires are manufactured by other production facilities owned by Goodyear. Tire Company D?bica S.A. is also a manufacturer of curing membranes for the production of tires.
Not convinced...
Agree

Just because they're made in the 'same factory', doesn't mean they're as good etc...

Tread carefully with them (pardon the pun)

Jakg

Original Poster:

3,451 posts

167 months

Thursday 3rd June 2021
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Got another set of Logic 7 mids for the rear doors.

Also deadened the front and rear door cards as well - I doubt it'll make much difference but it's mostly to tidy my shed of bits before I move!


Jakg

Original Poster:

3,451 posts

167 months

Thursday 10th June 2021
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Removed the phone cradle and fitted a storage tray instead.

I went for a second hand genuine one as the reviews on the Chinese ones weren't great.

It's difficult to tell in the pictures, but you gain a lot of space as the tray sits a lot lower.

Before (stock picture):



helix402

7,832 posts

181 months

Thursday 10th June 2021
quotequote all
Jakg said:
Removed the phone cradle and fitted a storage tray instead.

I went for a second hand genuine one as the reviews on the Chinese ones weren't great.

It's difficult to tell in the pictures, but you gain a lot of space as the tray sits a lot lower.

Before (stock picture):


I’m liking the storage tray. I may have to locate one….

Jakg

Original Poster:

3,451 posts

167 months

Friday 2nd July 2021
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Proof it does actually spend time not in bits


Court_S

12,764 posts

176 months

Saturday 3rd July 2021
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It looks good on those MV3’s. I think they’re a lovely wheel that really works in the E9x cars.

Having helped a mate so the gearbox oil on his 530d; it really is a messy, st job doing it on the drive. We did it on a really hot day in May. Joy.

Jakg

Original Poster:

3,451 posts

167 months

Saturday 17th July 2021
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A CIC iDrive unit was retrofitted, but the original CCC controller was still used.

My reasons for upgrading were pretty frivolous.

The controller is a straight swap, but needs a new trim piece, mounting brackets (sometimes come with the controllers) and also requires 2 extra screws (4x for the CCC, but 6x for the CIC - which I didn't realise!).

The trim I got looks the same (i.e. both silver), but the original one is a semi-matt plastic, the new one is solid aluminium.
Metal is obviously nicer than plastic, but scratches more easily - luckily the difference in appearance isn't too jarring.



Trim removed - your meant to remove the gearknob to get the gaiter off, but if your careful you can get it out through the hole. I don't think it's possible in park, though, with an automatic.



New one fitted




Jakg

Original Poster:

3,451 posts

167 months

Monday 6th September 2021
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Estate car doing estate car things







Needed a set of plates for the trailer, so used it as an excuse to swap the screw on dealer plates for some plain stick on ones.




helix402

7,832 posts

181 months

Tuesday 7th September 2021
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Glad yours is working! I’m getting rather fed up with my (current lack of power/4K rev limit problem).

Jakg

Original Poster:

3,451 posts

167 months

Saturday 1st January 2022
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I know they're a gimmick, but I love seeing condensation out of dual exhausts on a cold morning, something my Megane did too. Shame the F31 335d did away with it.



The car has LED side indicator / repeaters, but one stopped working.

I popped it out to check the connector, and immediately dropped it inside the inner wing...

After much faffing with screwdrivers, hook tools, grab tool etc I found a hook with my cable rods set



Success



Some contact cleaner on the connectors and they're working fine again.

Maps updated



Moved house and now have a double garage to work in - bit nerve racking getting it in though, especially as the last house I had with a garage was about 18" shorter than my car at the time, even though I measured it before renting it!





I had the intercooler off and noticed the boost hose was a bit loose in the upper socket (turbo end). Pulled it off



Whats that black bit?



Seals disintegrated.

Not the first time this has happend with my MTC boost hose - previously it was the other end
Jakg said:
I contacted MTC to get a new o-ring - they mentioned this regularly happens if you install without lubrication. Maybe it wouldn't happen so regularly if they included instructions (I originally used lubricant when installing btw).
The new o-ring is slightly larger so I suspect the originals are undersized.

New o-rings



With the original o-rings it slid on, with the new ones it's noticeably tougher to get it seated - I ended up using a bit of wood with some notches cut in it as a drift and then lightly tapped it home. Having all this stuff to hand in the garage is very helpful!



Jakg

Original Poster:

3,451 posts

167 months

Saturday 1st January 2022
quotequote all

Next job was the rear mid caliper lines - I got some braided hoses that go on the rear between the body and rear subframe brake lines, replacing the existing rubber ones.

Unfortunately, one of the unions was seized so instead of it unscrewing, the brake line twisted off instead



This was on the 23rd of December, not an ideal time to be sorting this out.

I considered putting a join in or making new pipes but I've got no brake pipe tools.

Luckily it was on the pipe on the rear subframe from left to right, so not massively long.

I gave in and called a BMW dealer - apparently the pipe doesn't come pre-bent so I'd have to do that myself, and it needed to be ordered in - not ideal.

I found a seller on eBay who'd had the same problem, did have all the tools and had made up several spare sets - with the caveat that being handmade they might need slightly adjustment. But pre-bent, and half the BMW price.
They even managed to get them dropped off a Hermes Parcelshop on the same day for next day delivery... but unfortunately they didn't get collected until after Christmas.

I had some free time so removed all the old pipes - even after several days of repeated plusgas soaking, 3 out of the 4 unions on the rear subframe were seized, so at least I feel I've sorted something out that would've caught me out at some point.

This did mean that when the new pipes turned up, I realised I'd forgotten the exact routing of the pipe so had to watch several videos on YouTube of diff / caliper removal to try to spot where the pipes are supposed to run.



The new pipes are copper, I replaced both sides.

The ad said its "difficult to fit if you dont have the diff out already" so I was ready for a fight but luckily it turned out to be quite easy once I'd got the routing right without removing anything but the wheels. Slight adjustment was needed to get the pipes aligned properly.

Bled up, test drive, all good.

I reset the brake fluid service indicator and noticed it was reporting the front pads had 1,100 miles left - the service indicator wasn't reset when the pads were done last time (had a similar issue with the rears earlier), I'd already checked them so reset it, which caused a bigger problem



Jakg said:
I've reset the light through the computer, but it doesn't take the warning away unless the sensor is actually disconnected / reconnected to prove you've done the work.
Turns out its a bit smarter than I thought - the computer uses the resistance of the sensor to calculate wear position. If you reset the light (saying you've changed the pads), but the sensor resistance stays the same (e.g. you didn't actually change the sensor) it figures you've done something wrong and will instead flash up an annoying red warning when you turn the car on.

Because it measures resistance, just unplugging and reconnecting the sensor isn't enough.

But I found a tip online that says you can short the pins to show a change of resistance, reset it again and then put the old sensor back on and work around it.

I had an old sensor and I plugged that in (electrically, I just left it in the bag), reset it and then swapped back and the lights gone


Jakg

Original Poster:

3,451 posts

167 months

Saturday 1st January 2022
quotequote all
Jakg said:
DailyHack said:
I fitted a £100 M-Sport Alacantra seats/interior in my 2012 SE E91 easy fit and somewhat more exclusive than leather.

Made the world of difference and so adjustable, the standard SE seats are/were terrible I don't miss them one bit - sold the whole lot for £15 biggrin
I'm on the lookout for some sports seats, the current ones are heated so I don't want to lose that which makes it a bit trickier.

I did make a start on fitting some Corsa VXR Recaro seats but that was one project too far.
I had to sell the VXR seats to make space when moving, but tbh I wanted to keep the heated seats and especially the electric memory as my wife regularly uses the car and having seat position tied to keys is very handy.

I've been looking for ages, but finding electric, memory, sports seats has been tough, as the ones I do find are E92/E93.

I found these - whole lot was £150 (!). They were about 2 hours away, but I just didn't see how I could find the time to collect so paid extra (£70) for delivery.



Couple of days before Christmas and at 7:30 I'm woken up to find a pallet full of goodies to unload - unfortunately the cars immobile in the garage so I had to get creative to find places to put all the bits in the above picture



Got the old seats out, quick comparison between new and old - the bolsters are much deeper



The new seats are E90 LCI ones, but the front seats bolt right in and memory, heating etc works fine in my pre-LCI. I think the modules are different (based on research of F80 M3 seats being fitted requiring the LCI seat modules), and the headrests aren't removeable as they are "active headrests" which have a pretensioner-style response in an accident - but this is an extra plug my car doesn't have and is fine.



Definitely more supportive (which was my main complaint with the standard seats), but still need to get the adjustment quite right.

As the seats are from an E90, I didn't bother with the rears - the rear seat base is common between E90/E91, but the back obviously isn't, and the rear seats between regular and sport are identical anyway.

Because I got the whole interior I also got to swap some more goodies

I bought a new centre console trim to go with my updated CIC iDrive controller, but the trim was metal and a little scuffed.
As part of the bundle I got the same thing in a better condition so I swapped it.



I also took the opportunity to add the extra screws between CCC (4) & CIC (6) iDrive controllers I didn't have to hand last time.



The new interior is finished in "fine brushed aluminium", so the centre console, upper dash trims and door card inserts are all actual metal vs the plastic I have - a £200 option when new.

The metal feels nicer, but scratches easily - I've swapped it all over and prefer it overall, but I've kept the originals in case I want to swap back.









I also noticed the drivers door seal had some tears, a new one was quite expensive so I went for a used one instead