£600 Rover 75 Connoisseur SE, 2.5 v6
Discussion
!!PrinceRupert said:
It is definitely now broken 
A spring pinged off that I cannot reconnect. Not that I could get the jammed magazine out anyway...fail.
Thinking of getting one of these but not clear how they install. If it was plug and play to the cd changer cable it would be brilliant. But really don't want to take apart the dash to install. Definitely would introduce rattles...
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/111727574790
No idea, I’m afraid. Looks a likely fit, but... A spring pinged off that I cannot reconnect. Not that I could get the jammed magazine out anyway...fail.Thinking of getting one of these but not clear how they install. If it was plug and play to the cd changer cable it would be brilliant. But really don't want to take apart the dash to install. Definitely would introduce rattles...
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/111727574790
I’m still hoping someone will link me to a unit that will let me listen to podcasts on my iPhone in the E38. And not screw up my 1990’s Nokia mobile phone integration. That mostly works, except on important calls when it doesn’t. The box is too big and the tuner sits a couple of mm too far forward in the centre console too. Probably needs all ripping out and replacing with a 21st century solution!
JeremyH5 said:
No idea, I’m afraid. Looks a likely fit, but...
I’m still hoping someone will link me to a unit that will let me listen to podcasts on my iPhone in the E38. And not screw up my 1990’s Nokia mobile phone integration. That mostly works, except on important calls when it doesn’t. The box is too big and the tuner sits a couple of mm too far forward in the centre console too. Probably needs all ripping out and replacing with a 21st century solution!
In my Alfa 156 I installed a Bluetooth head unit that worked brill and took minutes to install. The 75 seems to have a unique fascia so you cant just install a standard single/double din head unit. Rather annoying!I’m still hoping someone will link me to a unit that will let me listen to podcasts on my iPhone in the E38. And not screw up my 1990’s Nokia mobile phone integration. That mostly works, except on important calls when it doesn’t. The box is too big and the tuner sits a couple of mm too far forward in the centre console too. Probably needs all ripping out and replacing with a 21st century solution!
Another easy task this morning.
Oil filter and spark plugs also arrived. Might do the oil change this afternoon, if I can be bothered. Also intend to give it a wash! Haven't decided if I'll attempt the spark plugs yet, or changing the brake fluid. I presume it wouldn't cost much to ask a local garage to do the latter. It feels a little like giving in so maybe I will try it myself.
If I get an eazi bleed, I suspect I could put the rear of the car on axle stands and bleed the fronts with the wheels on the ground. Would that be right?
Oil filter and spark plugs also arrived. Might do the oil change this afternoon, if I can be bothered. Also intend to give it a wash! Haven't decided if I'll attempt the spark plugs yet, or changing the brake fluid. I presume it wouldn't cost much to ask a local garage to do the latter. It feels a little like giving in so maybe I will try it myself.
If I get an eazi bleed, I suspect I could put the rear of the car on axle stands and bleed the fronts with the wheels on the ground. Would that be right?
PrinceRupert said:
I also bled the power steering system this morning to see if it cures the squeak at full lock when doing manoeuvres. I doubt it will as it doesn't squeak when the car is stationary. Any suggestions as to what it might be - driveshaft?
Lots of cars make a sad noise if you hold the rack against the stop at hard lock and apparently it's not terribly good for it either because it's applying hydraulic assistance, as per the torque on the steering column, to push against the stops. Is it when you hold it against full lock that it squeaks? If so it could be the belt squeaking when the load on the pump is high.stickleback123 said:
Lots of cars make a sad noise if you hold the rack against the stop at hard lock and apparently it's not terribly good for it either because it's applying hydraulic assistance, as per the torque on the steering column, to push against the stops. Is it when you hold it against full lock that it squeaks? If so it could be the belt squeaking when the load on the pump is high.
It doesn't need to be held at full lock to hear the squeak - doing a three point turn or going round a mini roundabout will cause it to squeak as well. I will try and inspect the belt.PrinceRupert said:
It doesn't need to be held at full lock to hear the squeak - doing a three point turn or going round a mini roundabout will cause it to squeak as well. I will try and inspect the belt.
I don't know if these have manual or automatic tensioners, probably automatic in which case the belt may have stretched to the limits of it's adjustment and now it slips a little under higher load or the tensioner has gotten weak over time and is allowing the belt to slip. You can get the aux belt and tensioner done at the same time as the cambelts
My first ever oil change this afternoon.
It went fairly straight forwardly other than three things:
- There is more oil on my drive than in my bucket. When I removed the sump plug I expected the oil to come out downwards not propel itself out sideways. I also managed to get oil everywhere trying to get the filter off. I did have the wherewithal to put some cardboard down...though generally managed to miss the cardboard.
- Couldn't get the filter off. After struggling for half an hour I drilled two holes in it and used a screwdriver as leverage.
- Getting the undertray back on was a nightmare. It has clearly been bodged several times such that it was attached by five or six different types of screws. Eventually managed after quite a long time of swearing and struggling.
Just about to turn the engine on for the first time. Will update the thread if it explodes
It went fairly straight forwardly other than three things:
- There is more oil on my drive than in my bucket. When I removed the sump plug I expected the oil to come out downwards not propel itself out sideways. I also managed to get oil everywhere trying to get the filter off. I did have the wherewithal to put some cardboard down...though generally managed to miss the cardboard.
- Couldn't get the filter off. After struggling for half an hour I drilled two holes in it and used a screwdriver as leverage.
- Getting the undertray back on was a nightmare. It has clearly been bodged several times such that it was attached by five or six different types of screws. Eventually managed after quite a long time of swearing and struggling.
Just about to turn the engine on for the first time. Will update the thread if it explodes
PrinceRupert said:
It didn't explode! I'm not entirely sure if there is enough oil in it though ... this car has the most difficult to read dipstick I've ever seen!
It seems its near the top and the capacity is 5.2l - I put in 5l plus some in the filter so it should be okay.
Yeah the dipstick is a pain in the arse and the proper method means that the engine needs to be ran up and allowed to cool a bit then take the reading. It seems its near the top and the capacity is 5.2l - I put in 5l plus some in the filter so it should be okay.
Apparently you're not meant to fill it up to the max line as oil ends up going though the breather into the inlet manifolds. Last one I did I just put a 5L bottle in and I used 5w40 which cured my cam follower engine noise.
PrinceRupert said:
My first ever oil change this afternoon.
It went fairly straight forwardly other than three things:
- There is more oil on my drive than in my bucket. When I removed the sump plug I expected the oil to come out downwards not propel itself out sideways. I also managed to get oil everywhere trying to get the filter off. I did have the wherewithal to put some cardboard down...though generally managed to miss the cardboard.
- Couldn't get the filter off. After struggling for half an hour I drilled two holes in it and used a screwdriver as leverage.
- Getting the undertray back on was a nightmare. It has clearly been bodged several times such that it was attached by five or six different types of screws. Eventually managed after quite a long time of swearing and struggling.
Just about to turn the engine on for the first time. Will update the thread if it explodes
Ha! Yep the oil always goes further than you think it will... worse if it’s windy!! Coca Cola and a stiff brush works well to get it off a driveway...It went fairly straight forwardly other than three things:
- There is more oil on my drive than in my bucket. When I removed the sump plug I expected the oil to come out downwards not propel itself out sideways. I also managed to get oil everywhere trying to get the filter off. I did have the wherewithal to put some cardboard down...though generally managed to miss the cardboard.
- Couldn't get the filter off. After struggling for half an hour I drilled two holes in it and used a screwdriver as leverage.
- Getting the undertray back on was a nightmare. It has clearly been bodged several times such that it was attached by five or six different types of screws. Eventually managed after quite a long time of swearing and struggling.
Just about to turn the engine on for the first time. Will update the thread if it explodes
dai1983 said:
Yeah the dipstick is a pain in the arse and the proper method means that the engine needs to be ran up and allowed to cool a bit then take the reading.
Apparently you're not meant to fill it up to the max line as oil ends up going though the breather into the inlet manifolds. Last one I did I just put a 5L bottle in and I used 5w40 which cured my cam follower engine noise.
I had a 5l bottle and a 1l bottle. I filled the filter before installation with the 1l bottle, then put 5l in. Should be sufficient. I used 5w40 as well following recommendations from the forums. Apparently you're not meant to fill it up to the max line as oil ends up going though the breather into the inlet manifolds. Last one I did I just put a 5L bottle in and I used 5w40 which cured my cam follower engine noise.
The next tasks on my list:
- Bleed brakes and renew brake fluid. The pedal feels very soft. I've ordered a Gunson eazibleed and some Dot 4 and will give it a go. I'm a bit nervous about working on brakes so if I am not confident I have done it correctly or have some difficulties, might have a local garage work on it.
- Spark plugs. I have read a few guides and feel reasonably confident to give this a bash despite difficult access to rear plugs. DGMRS only sent me 4 plugs rather than 6 though so hopefully they send me another 2 by the weekend!
Oh and one other annoying thing that happened this weekend - a clip on my socket set case snapped! Which means if I lift it vertically a bunch of sockets fall out ... need to try and sort that.
Forget fixing the case and get a tool chest for your new world of tinkering. And a drain pan so hopefully no mor spilt oils 
https://www.halfords.com/search?q=Oil+drain+pan
https://www.halfords.com/tools/storage/tool-chests...
https://www.halfords.com/search?q=Oil+drain+pan
https://www.halfords.com/tools/storage/tool-chests...
sprouting said:
Forget fixing the case and get a tool chest for your new world of tinkering. And a drain pan so hopefully no mor spilt oils
https://www.halfords.com/search?q=Oil+drain+pan
https://www.halfords.com/tools/storage/tool-chests...
I am already in the doghouse for the expenditure on tools, not sure that further expenditure on a tool chest would be permissible right now https://www.halfords.com/search?q=Oil+drain+pan
https://www.halfords.com/tools/storage/tool-chests...
Though, when I sorted some new furniture with my angle grinder (screws were too long and so legs wobbled, shortened each screw) i was in the good books momentarily!
Toolstop were very good at responding when I messaged them about the broken clip, very fast response, and gave me an offer of a £25 partial refund or a replacement. I took the former, and will bodge with some tape :-)
Quick question to all: when bleeding brakes with an eazibleed, is it fine to jack one wheel up, remove wheel, bleed that brake, put wheel back on, move to the next? I don't have a way of getting all four wheels off at once.
Cambs_Stuart said:
Really enjoying the thread. Don't take this the wrong way, but having followed loads of builds where the skills displayed would embarrass the most skilful workshop it's really good to read about someone whose spannering skills are more like mine.
Hah, I did wonder if a thread where someone bungles through his first oil change on an old Rover would be interesting as compared to some of the much more talented individuals rebuilding the engine of a unique racing car or whatever, but glad some are enjoying it 
PrinceRupert said:
Quick question to all: when bleeding brakes with an eazibleed, is it fine to jack one wheel up, remove wheel, bleed that brake, put wheel back on, move to the next? I don't have a way of getting all four wheels off at once.
Yep, this is OK, but you should start from the wheel that is furthest from the master cylinder and work back. So assuming your MC is offside engine bulkhead (ish), do nearside rear, offside rear, nearside front, offside front. Also look carefully, it may be possible to do some of them without taking the wheel off. Oh, and from experience, get a small syringe as when you've finished with an easibleed your MC reservoir will be full to the brim and you'll need to remove some. if your brakes are part worn, aim for between max and min in the reservoir so that when you do replace pads and push the brake pistons in, it doesn't rise so far it slops over the top of the reservoir - nasty stuff brake fluid.
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