Honda Integra Type R (DC2)
Discussion
New Continental radio fitted today. Was the only head unit I could find that doesn't look like it was designed in 2002 by a man in Burberry cap. Really impressed with it, the sound quality is a huge improvement and it has Bluetooth - and no touchscreen.
There's no external aerial on my car - a previous owner removed it. I've bought one that goes inside the car but I've not fitted it yet. Not sure I will bother, as I only ever use Bluetooth audio anyway.
There's no external aerial on my car - a previous owner removed it. I've bought one that goes inside the car but I've not fitted it yet. Not sure I will bother, as I only ever use Bluetooth audio anyway.
greeneggsnsam said:
New Continental radio fitted today. Was the only head unit I could find that doesn't look like it was designed in 2002 by a man in Burberry cap. Really impressed with it, the sound quality is a huge improvement and it has Bluetooth - and no touchscreen.
There's no external aerial on my car - a previous owner removed it. I've bought one that goes inside the car but I've not fitted it yet. Not sure I will bother, as I only ever use Bluetooth audio anyway.
I like that; 'new' old skool There's no external aerial on my car - a previous owner removed it. I've bought one that goes inside the car but I've not fitted it yet. Not sure I will bother, as I only ever use Bluetooth audio anyway.
chrismc1977 said:
I’ve got an Alpine Bluetooth unit in mine- screen adjusted to match the orange illumination of the dash as I’m very fussy about such things- also upgraded all the speakers to Alpine as well & it’s a very competent setup.
Discovered last year that my car had Alpine speakers in the doors, I'm guessing they're not OEM then. They sounded crap with the JVC head unit that was in there but they're surprisingly good with the new unit!greeneggsnsam said:
Discovered last year that my car had Alpine speakers in the doors, I'm guessing they're not OEM then. They sounded crap with the JVC head unit that was in there but they're surprisingly good with the new unit!
Correct. Mine had OEM in the front & some ‘upgraded’ Fosgate jobbers in the rear that were equally naff as well as being made of pig iron!With the Alpines all round & dynamatt (fitted one side) removed I also saved just shy of 2kgs as well.
Win win
Spent the day under the car sorting out the exhaust. A few things I wanted to do - get a better manifold on there and stop the back box touching the suspension on big compressions.
New header is on plus a JDM cat, but the length difference means there's a short section missing. I planned ahead, though - I knew this would happen so I've got the pipe and the flanges (you can see I've put them on temporarily in the pic) ready.
Just need to see if anywhere locally will do the little bit of welding needed to stick the pipe to the flanges, though last time I did that the welds were horrendous. Wish I could see some examples of work before I commit to anyone really.
Yeah, it should be an easy job... but finding somewhere that can weld well isn't that easy even with the internet! Really ought to try my hand at it one day, it's a skill I'd like to have.
Flanges at the other end are relatively new, my car's exhaust is a proper mish-mash which is why I'm having to make this tiny fill section. Best thing to do would be to replace the whole system but that's $$$!
Flanges at the other end are relatively new, my car's exhaust is a proper mish-mash which is why I'm having to make this tiny fill section. Best thing to do would be to replace the whole system but that's $$$!
If you need something done right, call up dad. That's how the saying goes, right?
Not only did he weld up the short section for me, he even made an aluminium heat shield because the OEM one was missing.
Just been out for a run and it's back to its best. No knocks from the back, and no leaks at the front. I'm thinking it may have even had a slight leak before as I'm sure it's quieter.
Here are my thoughts for next jobs:
- Need a replacement bonnet without rust - so will likely go for a carbon one. Then I'll have the front end resprayed to hide it.
- Engine bay needs a tidy up and I'll repaint the cam cover
- I want to change the battery cut-off so that it's a switch in the cabin rather than a screw-off type in the engine bay
- I would love to get an original, good condition leather wheel as the one in there is re-trimmed in Alcantara, which you have to clean constantly otherwise it feels horrible. However, these are insanely expensive!
- As you can see in the pic above, the front suspension has a lot of surface rust. Ideas welcome on the best solution... probably a good time to re-bush and get a pro geometry set-up done afterwards
You could go the full NSX-R on the steering wheel. Very sexy (although no airbag)
https://dc5rparts.com/products/momo-tuner-steering...
https://dc5rparts.com/products/momo-tuner-steering...
I followed a guide in the DC2 forums and cleaned my IACV because I thought it looked like something worth doing. My car wasn't idling badly, just a little higher than it did when I bought it.
But after following the instructions carefully - twice - the car is now not able to idle from cold, and when warm after a rev from idle it won't drop back to a normal idle. It drops right down to below 500rpm and then either manages to catch itself and go back to 1000rpm (warm) or just stalls.
Any ideas why? I have tried an ECU reset and as I said I also tried taking the IACV off a second time and cleaning it again. I checked the vaccuum lines too which seem fine, and sprayed around the IACV with carb cleaner to look for leaks.
The only other thing I can think of is that it might be the TPS which I also popped off to clean... but I put it back exactly as it was and it all looked fine. The little o-ring gasket looked fine but there was some debris around it which I cleaned off.
But after following the instructions carefully - twice - the car is now not able to idle from cold, and when warm after a rev from idle it won't drop back to a normal idle. It drops right down to below 500rpm and then either manages to catch itself and go back to 1000rpm (warm) or just stalls.
Any ideas why? I have tried an ECU reset and as I said I also tried taking the IACV off a second time and cleaning it again. I checked the vaccuum lines too which seem fine, and sprayed around the IACV with carb cleaner to look for leaks.
The only other thing I can think of is that it might be the TPS which I also popped off to clean... but I put it back exactly as it was and it all looked fine. The little o-ring gasket looked fine but there was some debris around it which I cleaned off.
I actually didn't touch the TPS, I realised it was the MAP sensor that I took off. Overnight the car has decided to behave itself when starting, so it idles fine when cold now and settles down to a normal idle when warm.
BUT it still has this annoying problem of almost stalling when you blip the throttle at idle. I've been desperately searching forum threads and I only found one that seemed to have any kind of solution but it was never followed up on. They suggested recalibrating the TPS but I can't see how to get it off, there are no bolts or screws. I'm also scared to touch anything else now this has caused all this stress - all because I wanted to knock off an easy job!
EDIT: I checked the TPS voltages and they are 0.46 closed and 4.46 open which looks to be within spec so probably not that. I've also ordered a new MAP sensor just in case.
BUT it still has this annoying problem of almost stalling when you blip the throttle at idle. I've been desperately searching forum threads and I only found one that seemed to have any kind of solution but it was never followed up on. They suggested recalibrating the TPS but I can't see how to get it off, there are no bolts or screws. I'm also scared to touch anything else now this has caused all this stress - all because I wanted to knock off an easy job!
EDIT: I checked the TPS voltages and they are 0.46 closed and 4.46 open which looks to be within spec so probably not that. I've also ordered a new MAP sensor just in case.
Edited by greeneggsnsam on Saturday 3rd July 14:19
I cleaned the PCV valve today and it's got ever so slightly better.
The problem is that when you rev it from idle, or come down to idle with the clutch in like at a junction, the revs drop to about 500 and then come back up to 750. Previously it was dropping below 500 so it's not really a huge concern now, even though it's clearly not working as it's supposed to.
I want to check to see if the IACV is sticky (by putting some current through it on the bench) and have a look inside the throttle body but I'll wait until the weather's a bit better.
In the meantime I'm wondering what these buttons are for... I wonder if they're related to the alarm but they don't seem to do anything. Anyone know?
The problem is that when you rev it from idle, or come down to idle with the clutch in like at a junction, the revs drop to about 500 and then come back up to 750. Previously it was dropping below 500 so it's not really a huge concern now, even though it's clearly not working as it's supposed to.
I want to check to see if the IACV is sticky (by putting some current through it on the bench) and have a look inside the throttle body but I'll wait until the weather's a bit better.
In the meantime I'm wondering what these buttons are for... I wonder if they're related to the alarm but they don't seem to do anything. Anyone know?
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