Peugeot 205 XR

[Cascade360]

So im pretty sure the knock is the exhaust, which is good news. I jacked up the rear and the wheel spins freely, stops with brakes, and no apparent play in wheel bearing.

I gave the carb and air box a good clean and it seems to run much better. Runs well with the choke out but even getting it warm enough that rad fan comes on still stalls with choke in. I did twiddle with the idle screw a bit but not much seemed to happen.

Wonder if theres any mechanics well versed in carbs kicking about outside of specialists. I did speak to two local small garages about doing a bit of work on it before and they weren't interested, too old...

[TEKNOPUG]

Cascade360 said:

So im pretty sure the knock is the exhaust, which is good news. I jacked up the rear and the wheel spins freely, stops with brakes, and no apparent play in wheel bearing.

I gave the carb and air box a good clean and it seems to run much better. Runs well with the choke out but even getting it warm enough that rad fan comes on still stalls with choke in. I did twiddle with the idle screw a bit but not much seemed to happen.

Wonder if theres any mechanics well versed in carbs kicking about outside of specialists. I did speak to two local small garages about doing a bit of work on it before and they weren't interested, too old...

If you can get a carb rebuild kit it's pretty straightforward to do. Take everything apart, clean, replace gaskets, put it back together.

You either don't have enough fuel without the choke, so blocked jets in the carb, that need to be cleaned. Or you have an air leak which only having the choke open supplies enough fuel. So either leaking gaskets or hoses.

Edited by TEKNOPUG on Sunday 13th June 21:07

[Cascade360]

Thanks, very helpful.

I found a local garage with a mechanic who has been around a while and is familiar with old Peugeots, so gonna stick it in for the tracking and at the same time ask him to sort the wheel hub (even if a new hub and bearing is required, just cba doing it myself ...) and also give me his opinion on the running issues. Also gives me the chance to ask him to have a quick once over and let me know if he spots any other issues.

[Cascade360]

So it is in with "the Man" today. He has been asked to: (i) do the tracking, (ii) sort the threaded wheel nut (hopefully doesn't need a new hub but, if so, so be it), (iii) investigate squealing alternator belt (it is brand new, but still squeaking, even when I get it as tight as it goes), (iv) investigate rear corner knock, which i think is the exhaust, (v) investigate stalling with choke in.

Let's hope it's not too expensive ...

[Penelope Stopit]

As tight as it goes will hurt the alternator drive end bearing

[Cascade360]

Penelope Stopit said:

As tight as it goes will hurt the alternator drive end bearing

There's still a bit of give in the belt (can probably press it down half an inch with my thumb), but perhaps I've overtightened it (though I tightened it to try and eradicate the squeal, as google suggested squealing would be from the belt slipping). Squealing could even be the alternator itself? If it is the alternator, will change it myself rather than paying the Man to do it for me - £75 for a new one on eBay.

[Penelope Stopit]

Rev engine with belt squealing, keep it squealing for a minute

Stop engine, touch alternator pulley with finger (be quick) , if pulley is very hot belt is slipping

[mercedeslimos]

Where did you get the belt from? I find that sometimes different manufacturers of belts will list a slightly different belt number (length) for a certain car/engine. It might be a millimetre or two too long, hence the slip at its tightest and yet still drive the pulley somewhat. Gates seem to list 6261MC as the belt you need, at 713mm long, and tend to be fairly bang on

[Cascade360]

mercedeslimos said:

Where did you get the belt from? I find that sometimes different manufacturers of belts will list a slightly different belt number (length) for a certain car/engine. It might be a millimetre or two too long, hence the slip at its tightest and yet still drive the pulley somewhat. Gates seem to list 6261MC as the belt you need, at 713mm long, and tend to be fairly bang on

It's a Dayco belt from eBay - 10A0710C

http://www.miamistu.co.uk/pug/GB/205F/5/57A20A.HTM

Part number matched 5750.73 from that link.

It says it is 710mm - where did you get 6261MC / 713mm from?

If I sstick 5750.73 into Autodoc - https://www.autodoc.co.uk/spares-search?keyword=57... - I get options that are 720mm, 715mm, 710mm ...

[mercedeslimos]

Cascade360 said:

It's a Dayco belt from eBay - 10A0710C

http://www.miamistu.co.uk/pug/GB/205F/5/57A20A.HTM

Part number matched 5750.73 from that link.

It says it is 710mm - where did you get 6261MC / 713mm from?

If I sstick 5750.73 into Autodoc - https://www.autodoc.co.uk/spares-search?keyword=57... - I get options that are 720mm, 715mm, 710mm ...

gatesautocat.com

plug in car year engine and engine code etc. I stuck in '89 205 1.4 TU engine and got that one, the 713mm is actual length, outside length is 720 or 723mm I think. worth a look see

[Cascade360]

mercedeslimos said:

gatesautocat.com

plug in car year engine and engine code etc. I stuck in '89 205 1.4 TU engine and got that one, the 713mm is actual length, outside length is 720 or 723mm I think. worth a look see

Great resource, thank you. At just over a fiver, might as well get one and give it a go if the Man can't sort it.

[mercedeslimos]

Cascade360 said:

mercedeslimos said:

gatesautocat.com

plug in car year engine and engine code etc. I stuck in '89 205 1.4 TU engine and got that one, the 713mm is actual length, outside length is 720 or 723mm I think. worth a look see

Great resource, thank you. At just over a fiver, might as well get one and give it a go if the Man can't sort it.

Came across it a few years ago. The cross-reference works well too, if you're buying off eBay etc and can cross ref a cheaper part against their fitment guide.

[Cascade360]

It's alive!

£389.90, not too bad I guess, most of that because of needing to replace the drive flange and wheel bearing because of me cross threading the wheel nut ...

It's now running nicely, he said the carbs a bit worn but I don't propose to strip it down whilst its running well.

Mechanic was a bit of a petrolhead, had some interesting cars in, showed me round a few and had a good chat. Will get my business in future.

He commented on the stink of fuel, apparently old fuel in the lines, need to run it dry to burn through the old fuel. Shame I just brimmed the tank...

The knocking noise I thought was the exhaust is apparently the gearbox mount, and now he said it it seems obvious it is. I have a set of fast road mounts in my shed I can fit.

He asked if I had put the right gearbox oil in as its crunching a bit. I said I thought so ...

New fan belt fitted, apparently the one I had fitted was too long.

Need to check!

But best news ... it is now running and can be driven places

[mercedeslimos]

Good work!

[Cascade360]

To confirm, i did put the right gearbox oil in ...

Will check it is full.

[Cascade360]

I think the gearbox oil was not full - managed to get the rest of the bottle in (well, quite a bit over my driveway, it's starting to look like Deepwater Horizon), so might need to get another bottle to make sure its topped up full.

Pleased with today's efforts I decided to swap the gearbox mount over this evening. What an easy job. Only difficulty was getting the gearbox lined up to lift into the holes - roped my unhappy girlfriend in to hold the pry bar holding it into position ...



The old one was properly goosed.



Only problem ... got it all back together and realised I'd forgotten to fit the washer. Doh. Will need to do it again ...

[Cascade360]

Two down, one to go (believe the rear one is a bit of a pain as well ...).

This one wasn't nearly as goosed.

[TEKNOPUG]

What was done to get the carb running right?

[Cascade360]

Damn you have to take the driveshaft out to replace the rear engine mount. The driveshaft I just replaced. I really don't want to get it out again, drain oil, etc. Think it will be left for now ...

[xstian]

Cascade360 said:

Damn you have to take the driveshaft out to replace the rear engine mount. The driveshaft I just replaced. I really don't want to get it out again, drain oil, etc. Think it will be left for now ...

With the rear mount, the driveshaft intermediate bearing is located in the mount also, so like you say, the drive shaft has to come out. The the mount can then be unbolted from the engine. The bush inside this mount has to be pressed out and the new one pressed in. You will need a press for this, it won't just hammer in. If you are doing the other 2, this is well worth doing, as its often the one that gets left, because its the most awkward. I had to change this mount twice in a very short period of time on mine. I fitted a stiffer mount at first, it was absolutely awful. I swapped it out for a standard mount within a week.

Also worth noting, the mount on the drivers side has shims to space the side of the mount out for a better fit. This is assuming the mounts on your car are the same design as on mine.