Full Fat Range Rover Vogue SE (2010 L322, TDV8)
Discussion
TurboRob said:
Thank you! Wasn't aware of a later key for the L322 - do tell more.
Stumbled across it when replacing the shell on mine: https://youtu.be/yG89mtwUmqE
And
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/254904834094
Interesting, thanks.
EGR blanking - this is a straight forward fit and forget item on the engine. Pretty simple kit - remove the x-over pipe from EGR cooler outlet to engine inlet and blank with these parts:
The x-over pipes are in the middle of this lot, beneath the loom and it's bracket:
The instructions that came with the kit are very detailed and easy to follow. I found using a trim removal tool the easiest way to release the loom:
X-over pipes out and bagged
And blanks in -
Since doing the above throttle response is improved, MPG seems a little higher and the engine idles noticeably smoother. There was no need to code the car or delete any engine management lights, plus I suspect the engine oil will remain cleaner for longer.
EGR blanking - this is a straight forward fit and forget item on the engine. Pretty simple kit - remove the x-over pipe from EGR cooler outlet to engine inlet and blank with these parts:
The x-over pipes are in the middle of this lot, beneath the loom and it's bracket:
The instructions that came with the kit are very detailed and easy to follow. I found using a trim removal tool the easiest way to release the loom:
X-over pipes out and bagged
And blanks in -
Since doing the above throttle response is improved, MPG seems a little higher and the engine idles noticeably smoother. There was no need to code the car or delete any engine management lights, plus I suspect the engine oil will remain cleaner for longer.
EGR Blanking…never knew about that.
Everyday is a school day..will consider.
Enjoying this thread.. thank you.
Wheel Nut Corrosion
Whilst you are upgrading everything. I came a cropper with an emergency on road tyre change recently.
Inexplicably the LR supplied, original and unused wheelbrace would not fit the OEM wheel nuts.
Luckily i was helped by a passerby with a brace that fitted.
On discussion with LR parts dept, the wheelnuts have a thin metal cover over them…overtime water gets underneath and the whole unit expands just a few microns…sufficient to cause the problem.
Everyday is a school day..will consider.
Enjoying this thread.. thank you.
Wheel Nut Corrosion
Whilst you are upgrading everything. I came a cropper with an emergency on road tyre change recently.
Inexplicably the LR supplied, original and unused wheelbrace would not fit the OEM wheel nuts.
Luckily i was helped by a passerby with a brace that fitted.
On discussion with LR parts dept, the wheelnuts have a thin metal cover over them…overtime water gets underneath and the whole unit expands just a few microns…sufficient to cause the problem.
AndrewCrown said:
Inexplicably the LR supplied, original and unused wheelbrace would not fit the OEM wheel nuts.
I thought that was just me. A few months ago I went to change the wheels from the summer wheels to the winter wheels on the wife’s Freelander and had exactly the same issue.
Luckily one of my sockets fitted so did the job.
@OP loving the thread and had to google why do the egr delete - who knew?
Absolutely loved your last thread on the XC70, so glad to see you pick up one of my favourite cars. The 3.6 IMO is a more enjoyable engine than the 4.4, so peak spec for me! Particularly with the proper gear lever.
I've almost done the opposite of you, selling my L322 TDV8 (£3k, 182k miles and utterly reliable) and selling for a V70 D5 which has been a nightmare. Who'd have thought!
I've almost done the opposite of you, selling my L322 TDV8 (£3k, 182k miles and utterly reliable) and selling for a V70 D5 which has been a nightmare. Who'd have thought!
AndrewCrown said:
Wheel Nut Corrosion
On discussion with LR parts dept, the wheelnuts have a thin metal cover over them…overtime water gets underneath and the whole unit expands just a few microns…sufficient to cause the problem.
Thanks Andrew - according to the history that came with the car, the wheel nuts (all of them!) were replaced four times in the first 100k miles/whilst it was serviced at LR. I presume the car was under a warranty of some type and these were all claims...On discussion with LR parts dept, the wheelnuts have a thin metal cover over them…overtime water gets underneath and the whole unit expands just a few microns…sufficient to cause the problem.
One of the first things I did was go round and un-torque/re-torque all the wheelnuts. Two of my 20 were slightly soft - they do indeed corrode/swell under the thin chrome covers
Cant Find a Charger when I need one said:
Loved the Volvo thread so bookmarked this.
147lusso said:
Absolutely loved your last thread on the XC70, so glad to see you pick up one of my favourite car.
I still have the XC70 and it continues to do sterling service! The girlfriend uses it the most as her daily.... thread here that I will continue to keep up to dateThanks for all the other positive comments about the Range Rover
With the mechanicals beginning to take order and the pleasant spring weather, I gave the glittery turd a good clean.
A light polish of the headlamp lenses did wonders:
And I even dragged-out the spare wheel and cleaned out/checked the boot floor.
A run to the tip to dispose of all the oils I'd changed and oil-soaked cardboard and rags I'd accrued doing the fluid changes. Poshest looking car at the tip!
A light polish of the headlamp lenses did wonders:
And I even dragged-out the spare wheel and cleaned out/checked the boot floor.
A run to the tip to dispose of all the oils I'd changed and oil-soaked cardboard and rags I'd accrued doing the fluid changes. Poshest looking car at the tip!
A common fault on the L322 with heated/cooled seats is the driver's one failing. They have several basic 'Peltier' (thermoelectric) heatpumps buried in the seats that blow warm or cold air through the seat perforations. It's a common enough occurrence that plenty before me have dug in to the seats to tear them apart and get them working again. The replacement part from LR is around £300.
In the case of mine it was a simple fix to a cracked air feed duct that fixed it and got the heated/cooled seat working again.
Seat back off to reveal the gubbins. The bit with the barcode on is the heatpump:
Removed. The white fluff at the bottom is the filter/air inlet:
Turned over to look in the outlet you can see the Peltier unit. I tested this with a 12v supply and it heated/cooled OK.
The Peltier includes a spanwise thermistor across the base of the unit. If it detects any anomaly in air temperature distribution it shuts the unit off. In my case I had several cracks on the bellows of the duct that feeds air from the filter to the heatpump. I fixed this with a 2-part epoxy, laminating in some fabric tape to add strength in places:
(The girlf was out so her hairdryer was employed to speed up the process)
And voila! The drivers seat (all of it, including the armrest) heats and cools again.
In the case of mine it was a simple fix to a cracked air feed duct that fixed it and got the heated/cooled seat working again.
Seat back off to reveal the gubbins. The bit with the barcode on is the heatpump:
Removed. The white fluff at the bottom is the filter/air inlet:
Turned over to look in the outlet you can see the Peltier unit. I tested this with a 12v supply and it heated/cooled OK.
The Peltier includes a spanwise thermistor across the base of the unit. If it detects any anomaly in air temperature distribution it shuts the unit off. In my case I had several cracks on the bellows of the duct that feeds air from the filter to the heatpump. I fixed this with a 2-part epoxy, laminating in some fabric tape to add strength in places:
(The girlf was out so her hairdryer was employed to speed up the process)
And voila! The drivers seat (all of it, including the armrest) heats and cools again.
Took the Range Rover down to the Mendips for a long weekend away to celebrate one of the outlaws retiring. It's ability to swallow luggage and 4 adults, then cruise with little effort is very impressive - I particularly enjoyed the adaptive/active cruise control on the M5. Did around 27mpg on this trip; seems to be doing about 25mpg day to day.
In here = 4 x small suitcases, wellies, cool bags, shoes, usual girlfriend paraphernalia:
Done around 1k miles in the car in first month.
In here = 4 x small suitcases, wellies, cool bags, shoes, usual girlfriend paraphernalia:
Done around 1k miles in the car in first month.
I kept getting a 'low coolant level' message on the dash when I started the car, despite the level being absolutely fine. A quick google showed there is a level sensor in the bottom of the expansion tank, which seems to be a consumable judging by how cheap they are to replace and how man people complain.
In this pic the sensor plug is at the bottom. I clamped the two hoses feeding the expansion tank to minimise coolant loss when I took the tank out
I removed the expansion tank (not strictly necessary) as I wanted to investigate the operation of the sensor/switch - there's various claims they also measure the specific gravity of the coolant and warn you when the antifreeze dilution level is low.
The sensor sits in a dry recess in the base of the expansion tank. Around the recess (inside the expansion tank) is a float with a magnet in. As the float moves up and down with coolant level it disrupts the magnetic field (hall effect) around the level sensor, causing a small reed valve to open the circuit/send a signal that the level is too low.
I guess if the weight of the float is tuned it could corroborate antifreeze level in the water based on specific gravity.
I tested my existing one with a multimeter set to continuity and tipped the expansion tank up and down (you can hear the float sliding up and down inside). The sensor on the car never closed the circuit; it was stuck open. I fitted the new sensor and sure enough, it switched as I slid the float up and down past it.
Whilst out I gave the expansion tank a good clean - I found an old hose (I think from a 90s Discovery) in the spares box in the garage that was a perfect fit so I could use the garden hose to back flush it through:
Refitted and topped-up with this coolant from Halfords. It's the correct spec and made by Comma.
In this pic the sensor plug is at the bottom. I clamped the two hoses feeding the expansion tank to minimise coolant loss when I took the tank out
I removed the expansion tank (not strictly necessary) as I wanted to investigate the operation of the sensor/switch - there's various claims they also measure the specific gravity of the coolant and warn you when the antifreeze dilution level is low.
The sensor sits in a dry recess in the base of the expansion tank. Around the recess (inside the expansion tank) is a float with a magnet in. As the float moves up and down with coolant level it disrupts the magnetic field (hall effect) around the level sensor, causing a small reed valve to open the circuit/send a signal that the level is too low.
I guess if the weight of the float is tuned it could corroborate antifreeze level in the water based on specific gravity.
I tested my existing one with a multimeter set to continuity and tipped the expansion tank up and down (you can hear the float sliding up and down inside). The sensor on the car never closed the circuit; it was stuck open. I fitted the new sensor and sure enough, it switched as I slid the float up and down past it.
Whilst out I gave the expansion tank a good clean - I found an old hose (I think from a 90s Discovery) in the spares box in the garage that was a perfect fit so I could use the garden hose to back flush it through:
Refitted and topped-up with this coolant from Halfords. It's the correct spec and made by Comma.
There are now 2 threads that are alarmingly influencing my man mathing!!
I need a towing machine to ferry the daughters horse around. So clearly an ageing FFRR with £600 a year tax and more costly
To run than the horse it’s towing is the only answer.
May I ask what you paid for this on? Ballpark is fine. The colour, spec and pretty much everything you have is exactly what I want.
I need a towing machine to ferry the daughters horse around. So clearly an ageing FFRR with £600 a year tax and more costly
To run than the horse it’s towing is the only answer.
May I ask what you paid for this on? Ballpark is fine. The colour, spec and pretty much everything you have is exactly what I want.
Davie_GLA said:
There are now 2 threads that are alarmingly influencing my man mathing!!
I need a towing machine to ferry the daughters horse around. So clearly an ageing FFRR with £600 a year tax and more costly
To run than the horse it’s towing is the only answer.
May I ask what you paid for this on? Ballpark is fine. The colour, spec and pretty much everything you have is exactly what I want.
What’s the other thread influencing your man maths Davie? I’m loving my vicarious FFRR journey on this one tooI need a towing machine to ferry the daughters horse around. So clearly an ageing FFRR with £600 a year tax and more costly
To run than the horse it’s towing is the only answer.
May I ask what you paid for this on? Ballpark is fine. The colour, spec and pretty much everything you have is exactly what I want.
Dcadders said:
What’s the other thread influencing your man maths Davie? I’m loving my vicarious FFRR journey on this one too
Step this way. With apologies for the thread derail, OP!https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
Beautiful RR, still think these late L322s are nicer than the L405 that replaced it. Nice colour and spec too. I do plenty of home mechanicing on a variety of cars but the potential bills on one of these is frightening and puts me off having one. Sticking with my Freelander 2 'mini range rover' for now.
I had a similar silver one until recently, the auto started to slip when cold so I got rid. A flush might have fixed it, but I decided the tax was too high and the mpg too low. Take the rear arch liners out and pull back the sill covers at the rear. There will be some corrosion, and a double/triple skinned area in the front of the rear wheel arches/sills, check this area carefully and clean it of any dirt and stick some cavity wax in.
Davie_GLA said:
Dcadders said:
What’s the other thread influencing your man maths Davie? I’m loving my vicarious FFRR journey on this one too
Step this way. With apologies for the thread derail, OP!https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
Back on thread like topic.
The only thing stopping me getting a FFRR is the fact I know that renewing a £600 RFL yearly and giving the chancellor even more if my cash would frustrate the hell out of me…
Would be happy to deal with the fuel economy and ongoing glitch fixing as I don’t do that many miles any more
Edited by Dcadders on Sunday 15th May 12:45
What an amazing thread, the colour is beautiful - I had a RRS in Nara Bronze but with Arabica interior which I grew to love and properly miss -
Funny enough like others on this thread I am looking to come back to the LR fold due to horse towing duties, was looking for another Sport again but seeing your Vogue my head has been turned.
I understand your engine is ‘the one’ in terms of reliability etc, your MPG is also impressive. I only go to the office twice a week so that’s not so much of an issue and paying too rate tax on my 997 so already de-sensitised.
You are clearly an accomplished home mechinc looking at your forays this far however in LR land I think this will pay you dividends.
Keep the updates coming!
Si
Funny enough like others on this thread I am looking to come back to the LR fold due to horse towing duties, was looking for another Sport again but seeing your Vogue my head has been turned.
I understand your engine is ‘the one’ in terms of reliability etc, your MPG is also impressive. I only go to the office twice a week so that’s not so much of an issue and paying too rate tax on my 997 so already de-sensitised.
You are clearly an accomplished home mechinc looking at your forays this far however in LR land I think this will pay you dividends.
Keep the updates coming!
Si
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