981 Cayman GTS - Schwarzes Ferkel
Discussion
We made it on the ship - the effectively brand new Santoña. The drive down wasn't too busy but displayed typically British horrendous road manners. Twice I had to knock off >20mph in a big hurry as people pulled out on me, once without even indicating. <\oldmanshakesfistatclouds>
Anyway, made it with loads of time, lined up, laughed at £150k camper vans and people who try to drive off with the handbrake on. As you do.
There were two Porsche Boxsters in line next to us so as I went past I gave it sports exhaust + small rev which netted me the classic "Nobody cares about your car, you just look like an idiot." from the always sensible BBB.
We're on the slow 36hr trip down to Santander so depart at 21:30 Friday and arrive 08:00 Sunday. I thought we were calling into France for a crew change but apparently Santander port doesn't open overnight so they just do the trip slowly. Nothing to do but drink beer and stare at the ocean, so I'm happy!
We're in a "Club" cabin so get access to the club lounge, so free wine and some buffet food all day. BBB thinks it's worth it because of the ready access to French cheese and wine but I drink beer mostly and the lunch didn't look great. But the cheese was fantastic so....
We're up early tomorrow to presumably get in line to get in line to get in line... but after that we're off for a trip through the Picos de Europa mountains and then back up to a fancy dinner and posh hotel. Can't wait!!
Anyway, made it with loads of time, lined up, laughed at £150k camper vans and people who try to drive off with the handbrake on. As you do.
There were two Porsche Boxsters in line next to us so as I went past I gave it sports exhaust + small rev which netted me the classic "Nobody cares about your car, you just look like an idiot." from the always sensible BBB.
We're on the slow 36hr trip down to Santander so depart at 21:30 Friday and arrive 08:00 Sunday. I thought we were calling into France for a crew change but apparently Santander port doesn't open overnight so they just do the trip slowly. Nothing to do but drink beer and stare at the ocean, so I'm happy!
We're in a "Club" cabin so get access to the club lounge, so free wine and some buffet food all day. BBB thinks it's worth it because of the ready access to French cheese and wine but I drink beer mostly and the lunch didn't look great. But the cheese was fantastic so....
We're up early tomorrow to presumably get in line to get in line to get in line... but after that we're off for a trip through the Picos de Europa mountains and then back up to a fancy dinner and posh hotel. Can't wait!!
Yesterday was day one in Spain for a brisk 277km / 5 hr trip through the Picos.
https://maps.app.goo.gl/s4MUD4MjaDdPD73R6
Passport control was really fast and we were onto a motorway quickly. Actually, passport control worked too well and I picked the wrong first waypoint in a rush so we ended doing 20mins in the wrong direction before realising.
Hero from the ferry who had a police escort on the motorway:
When we turned off the motorway and got to the first proper road, the N-621 I was.... underwhelmed. Day tripping Spaniards on Harleys, tour buses and British camper vans as far as the eye could see had me pretty depressed. We ended up following the hordes for an hour to the town of Pores. We ended up in town and had to fight to get back to the N-621 again but once we did it was miraculously empty!
Stay tuned for 100s ofAudi Porsche on a mountain photos!
Great road surface and a fair upward incline to go with our twisty roads and I was very happy. And the scenery is properly, off the scale nuts.
6 speeds, 6 cylinders and 600 corners.
We turned off to the LE-2703 and the road surface was pretty horrible. I'd checked this road in a couple of places on Maps but had obviously missed this but and it was slow going for the first 20 mins. Probably a good time to say how amazingly well Ferkel deals with crappy tarmac - you know the roads are awful but it blends out the worst of it and never feels like it nails the bump stops.
There were also sheep and Ferkel stared down the giant sheep dog.
But the road got it's act together and we were in and out of forest with some fabulous sections. We turned off onto the N-625 for a quick blast to a lunch stop at Oseja de Sajambre.
From there BBB drove us down an amazing but very tight gorge (we won't mention being overtaken by Blue Van Man) to our overnight at a fancy hotel (Palacio de Luces Relais&Châteaux) outside of Lastres. The hotel was so much better than I am as a human but seemed like a decent price and the restaurant is Michelin star level.
We went down to town to try to find some tapas of anchovies (FAIL) and some beer (GREAT SUCCESS!). Then back the hotel for a decent view to end our first day in Spain.
BBB feels she's less comfortable at speed as a driver than she was in the Audi - "it feels light" which we think is the fact that it's ready to change direction. But otherwise very happy with driving and passengering.
https://maps.app.goo.gl/s4MUD4MjaDdPD73R6
Passport control was really fast and we were onto a motorway quickly. Actually, passport control worked too well and I picked the wrong first waypoint in a rush so we ended doing 20mins in the wrong direction before realising.
Hero from the ferry who had a police escort on the motorway:
When we turned off the motorway and got to the first proper road, the N-621 I was.... underwhelmed. Day tripping Spaniards on Harleys, tour buses and British camper vans as far as the eye could see had me pretty depressed. We ended up following the hordes for an hour to the town of Pores. We ended up in town and had to fight to get back to the N-621 again but once we did it was miraculously empty!
Stay tuned for 100s of
Great road surface and a fair upward incline to go with our twisty roads and I was very happy. And the scenery is properly, off the scale nuts.
6 speeds, 6 cylinders and 600 corners.
We turned off to the LE-2703 and the road surface was pretty horrible. I'd checked this road in a couple of places on Maps but had obviously missed this but and it was slow going for the first 20 mins. Probably a good time to say how amazingly well Ferkel deals with crappy tarmac - you know the roads are awful but it blends out the worst of it and never feels like it nails the bump stops.
There were also sheep and Ferkel stared down the giant sheep dog.
But the road got it's act together and we were in and out of forest with some fabulous sections. We turned off onto the N-625 for a quick blast to a lunch stop at Oseja de Sajambre.
From there BBB drove us down an amazing but very tight gorge (we won't mention being overtaken by Blue Van Man) to our overnight at a fancy hotel (Palacio de Luces Relais&Châteaux) outside of Lastres. The hotel was so much better than I am as a human but seemed like a decent price and the restaurant is Michelin star level.
We went down to town to try to find some tapas of anchovies (FAIL) and some beer (GREAT SUCCESS!). Then back the hotel for a decent view to end our first day in Spain.
BBB feels she's less comfortable at speed as a driver than she was in the Audi - "it feels light" which we think is the fact that it's ready to change direction. But otherwise very happy with driving and passengering.
I'm jealous! I got back on Friday and already have withdrawal symptoms.
I too was disappointed with the first bit of the N621, lots of roadworks and traffic lights. Then I got to the fun bit, perfectly suited to the car too.
Bores to Riano... https://www.google.co.uk/maps/dir/39577+Bores,+Can...
[My route in brief was Santander-Guarda-Covilha across to Madrid to collect my drinking buddy for a week in Logrono & Haro, then Pyrennes and a fun route back to Santander 18 days 2900 miles. Lots of fun].
Portugal pic.
I too was disappointed with the first bit of the N621, lots of roadworks and traffic lights. Then I got to the fun bit, perfectly suited to the car too.
Bores to Riano... https://www.google.co.uk/maps/dir/39577+Bores,+Can...
[My route in brief was Santander-Guarda-Covilha across to Madrid to collect my drinking buddy for a week in Logrono & Haro, then Pyrennes and a fun route back to Santander 18 days 2900 miles. Lots of fun].
Portugal pic.
M11rph said:
I'm jealous! I got back on Friday and already have withdrawal symptoms.
I too was disappointed with the first bit of the N621, lots of roadworks and traffic lights. Then I got to the fun bit, perfectly suited to the car too.
Bores to Riano... https://www.google.co.uk/maps/dir/39577+Bores,+Can...
[My route in brief was Santander-Guarda-Covilha across to Madrid to collect my drinking buddy for a week in Logrono & Haro, then Pyrennes and a fun route back to Santander 18 days 2900 miles. Lots of fun].
Portugal pic.
Ooh, that sounds like an amazing trip! How was the Serra de Estrella park?I too was disappointed with the first bit of the N621, lots of roadworks and traffic lights. Then I got to the fun bit, perfectly suited to the car too.
Bores to Riano... https://www.google.co.uk/maps/dir/39577+Bores,+Can...
[My route in brief was Santander-Guarda-Covilha across to Madrid to collect my drinking buddy for a week in Logrono & Haro, then Pyrennes and a fun route back to Santander 18 days 2900 miles. Lots of fun].
Portugal pic.
Iamnotkloot said:
Interesting updates - enjoy reading them (and much better than reading the currently very depressing news)
Thank you! Plenty more on the way. 
Yesterday was a run back through the same road BBB drove through the Picos and ending down in Zamora after 346km.
https://maps.app.goo.gl/SVQjaESHcRfdMCcy9
I got out to the car and found something on the windscreen. It's a leather wrapped piece of foam left by a fellow Porsche owner. I don't detail (and barely clean) my car so I'm not exactly sure what it is, but thank you mysterious Porsche guy!
We also met a lovely guy who was packing up his KXR-S convertible and had a good chat to him comparing luggage space.
We had planned to stop at the artisanal anchovy canner in town on the way out but completely failed to remember that mission with all the excitement. We'll have to try to stop on the way back through.
Onto the road and it was congested enough outside the park to not warrant any overtaking. Everyone else pealed off after a while though and then we had the canyon to ourselves and I made full usage of it. Noisy exhaust on and 2nd gear was the order of the day - there were only a couple of spots I managed to touch the 90kph speed limit. I tried with the sport button on but it sharpens the throttle and in the tight stuff it was a little too eager.
Photos don't do justice to how stunning the scenery is here!
I was planning on stopping the foot of the road at a series of reservoirs but the water was terrifyingly absent so it wasn't looking that pretty. We pushed on to a bar, ordered €16 worth of tapas which was apparently enough morcilla to feed a village alongside 8 croquettes, which left us feeling quite full for the boring bit down to Zamora.
We've been here and stayed in the parador before and I'm pretty sure Google tried to take us through some impassable pedestrian roads last time too but we made it through some very squeezy bits ok. Someone on the Internet said parking in the square was €28
but it turned out if you fed the meter €2 you get two hours and it ended at 8pm, so we just came back to top up. On to an afternoon beer in the square and more tapas for dinner! 
Edited by seefarr on Tuesday 10th October 07:25
seefarr said:
Ooh, that sounds like an amazing trip! How was the Serra de Estrella park?
Fantastic. I've been many years before, so had 4 days down there. There's not really a bad road anywhere.I went to the top of Torre for sunrise one weekday morning and saw one car on the way back during a 38km drive. Busier on a Sunday, but still not like the Alps.
Don't miss out on the N230, I probably had one of my best drives on it, and went back for seconds. Something like this..
https://www.google.co.uk/maps/dir/40.2405376,-7.59...
But that is easy to shorten or extend. Want more? Just keep going North-West on the N230 towards Vide, or do a complete loop using the N17 to travel North-East and rejoin the fun stuff.
Varied, beautiful and interesting roads which are perfect for a 981/982.
M11rph said:
Fantastic stuff.
Thank you! I'll update where we ended up! Obligatory horse armour photo from our Zamora palace accommodation:
Yesterday was our first day into Portugal - we could have done a quick one hour jaunt to our overnight in Braganca but instead I'd found some twisty lookin N roads to play in for a 215km trip.
https://goo.gl/maps/Z5UKGY57mFs7pDpE9
We left Zamora all ok but Google then departed heavily from my N road plan and took us down crazy little roads. We made it to Portugal but I have no idea where.
After a bunch of cobbled, one-tooth-one-family villages and some squeezy roads we made it to the N-219 and it was beautiful, with a lovely surface and deserted.
I chose another waypoint at the last minute, as it seemed rude not to reunite Ferkel with his Portuguese brothers.
Onwards to the N-216 (nice) and turned onto the N-217 which had a fabulous downhill section ending in a dramatic bridge - I dropped off BBB for some pics and hammered around with exhaust and Sports set to full child mode. I had a lovely time but had to eventually go pick her back up!!
That road turned pretty awful just after that section for a goodly few Kms. We stuck it out and it eventually got back to lovely smooth asphalt and great views to zoom our way into Braganca on.
This is dirt but you know what asphalt looks like:
We stayed at the Pousada in town (Portugal's answer to the Parador). It's a lovely hotel overlooking the town on the other side of the valley. It was a fair old walk into town and up the next hill to see the lovely castle but we felt like we needed the exercise by this stage of the trip. A Michelin star dinner topped off the day nicely - the 3 glass wine pairing ended at 6 glasses...and an aguagente (brandy) all included!
To help get BBB over her "wine-sickness" I had a small 242km jaunt down one of the windiest roads in Portugal as the plan.
Https://maps.app.goo.gl/KNpGRVtnzyq4bn986
This was all on the back of someone on PH saying that a section of the N-103 starting in Bragança was their favourite road...in the world. I can't find that post now so you'll just have to trust me.
We left Bragança reasonably early - despite the polite suggestion from BBB that we leave an extra half hour "to chill" I was keen to get going. Pretty much as soon as we got out of town I was in a heaven of deliciously smooth tarmac, wide lanes and no traffic. Stupid exhaust engaged and flat six in 3rd gear howling, keeping it above 3k rpm with the occasional dip into the lunacy of 2nd gear for the tighter corners.
After about 3/4 of an hour it was becoming clear that BBB was in her own personal hell of wine induced motion sickness - we quickly escalated from yawning, through burping to "can you please slow down", and finally to "is it ok if I drive for a bit"?
We stopped a lot more often and our collective happiness improved:
By the time we got to Chaves after an hour the road was becoming more congested and there were loads of little towns impeding progress. We had come down to cross a valley and it was not that interesting.
By the time we started to climb up the other side of the valley things were improving (as was BBB).
We started to look for lunch places and BBB found a highly rated place on the other side of the lake. We had no pressing engagements so off we went to double back a bit. It involved a 2km drive across the top of a dam (concrete thump-thump-thump with full-noise Porsche engine banging off the concrete sides, and me giggling like a school-girl):
A lake side drive that was EXACTLY 1xPorsche + 1xVan wide (and my trousers have the stains to prove it):
Finishing with a relaxing cow-detail:
The town was quite cool though - everything is stone: road is stone (cobbles), fence are stone, houses are stone, dog is stone. The restaurant was down next to the lake and despite trying to give us beef poisoning even though we ordered half sizes, we left very happy.
From there to Braga was ok but we were feeling pretty tired after lunch and kept picking up traffic. We tried our first shot parking garage but it was full - they wanted me to park in an impossible space next to a vintage Aston Martin so we bailed. Around the block and we went in our (what we thought) 2nd choice. People were doing insane s
t underground to get the last stupid park on the -2 level even though there was 77 parks on the next one down. One lady tried her damnest to reverse into us (my parking sensor was on full and she just kept squeaking it back) and I had someone up my jacks so couldn't do anything but lay on the horn and the throttle to get her to stop. We parked in to bottom level by ourselves and ran away....but not before seeing a sign that suggested we'd parked in a hospital car park only for hospital customers. fkingfkit, we'll deal with it tomorrow!
Https://maps.app.goo.gl/KNpGRVtnzyq4bn986
This was all on the back of someone on PH saying that a section of the N-103 starting in Bragança was their favourite road...in the world. I can't find that post now so you'll just have to trust me.
We left Bragança reasonably early - despite the polite suggestion from BBB that we leave an extra half hour "to chill" I was keen to get going. Pretty much as soon as we got out of town I was in a heaven of deliciously smooth tarmac, wide lanes and no traffic. Stupid exhaust engaged and flat six in 3rd gear howling, keeping it above 3k rpm with the occasional dip into the lunacy of 2nd gear for the tighter corners.
After about 3/4 of an hour it was becoming clear that BBB was in her own personal hell of wine induced motion sickness - we quickly escalated from yawning, through burping to "can you please slow down", and finally to "is it ok if I drive for a bit"?
We stopped a lot more often and our collective happiness improved:
By the time we got to Chaves after an hour the road was becoming more congested and there were loads of little towns impeding progress. We had come down to cross a valley and it was not that interesting.
By the time we started to climb up the other side of the valley things were improving (as was BBB).
We started to look for lunch places and BBB found a highly rated place on the other side of the lake. We had no pressing engagements so off we went to double back a bit. It involved a 2km drive across the top of a dam (concrete thump-thump-thump with full-noise Porsche engine banging off the concrete sides, and me giggling like a school-girl):
A lake side drive that was EXACTLY 1xPorsche + 1xVan wide (and my trousers have the stains to prove it):
Finishing with a relaxing cow-detail:
The town was quite cool though - everything is stone: road is stone (cobbles), fence are stone, houses are stone, dog is stone. The restaurant was down next to the lake and despite trying to give us beef poisoning even though we ordered half sizes, we left very happy.
From there to Braga was ok but we were feeling pretty tired after lunch and kept picking up traffic. We tried our first shot parking garage but it was full - they wanted me to park in an impossible space next to a vintage Aston Martin so we bailed. Around the block and we went in our (what we thought) 2nd choice. People were doing insane s
t underground to get the last stupid park on the -2 level even though there was 77 parks on the next one down. One lady tried her damnest to reverse into us (my parking sensor was on full and she just kept squeaking it back) and I had someone up my jacks so couldn't do anything but lay on the horn and the throttle to get her to stop. We parked in to bottom level by ourselves and ran away....but not before seeing a sign that suggested we'd parked in a hospital car park only for hospital customers. fkingfkit, we'll deal with it tomorrow!SEVENTY TWO EUROS was the cost of parking for around 12 hours in the private hospital car park. They wouldn't take card as well so we had to sit there and feed the machine 20s. I get the feeling I could have parked in the middle of the main square and the fine would have been less.
Anyyyyyyway. Next day we had a long drive planned but we shortened it to just 184km up to the Panede-Geres national park and back.
https://maps.app.goo.gl/26STUM29t68D4ZRF9
Heading out of town with absolutely no arguments about the parking, we headed up the N101. This was twisty but continually in and out of towns and stacked with traffic - not awesome and next time I'd just do the toll road. We turned off onto the EN-203 and things got interesting! Great tarmac, really wide lanes and views of a valley through the trees meant we were loving life. We stopped at Lindoso Castle which is well worth your £1.50 if you're in the area.
We entered Spain and turned off onto some small EM-xxxx roads. These were really strange. They looked like brand new tarmac on Google maps...
But it was like they'd tarmacked straight over a corrugated dirt road. Strange and not conducive to progress. On the upside the views were lovely, with some stunning rock formations.
Our endpoint was a border town filled with with motorbikes. We had a couple of hoots as we drove past a fleet of them sat outside a restaurant so I gave a wave and a rev. They gave us a smile as we walked in after parking, for another massive lunch (despite ordering half size mains).
Back down the way we came and more of the same! This time we parked sensibly in an actual parking area which cost us €15 for the night.
Anyyyyyyway. Next day we had a long drive planned but we shortened it to just 184km up to the Panede-Geres national park and back.
https://maps.app.goo.gl/26STUM29t68D4ZRF9
Heading out of town with absolutely no arguments about the parking, we headed up the N101. This was twisty but continually in and out of towns and stacked with traffic - not awesome and next time I'd just do the toll road. We turned off onto the EN-203 and things got interesting! Great tarmac, really wide lanes and views of a valley through the trees meant we were loving life. We stopped at Lindoso Castle which is well worth your £1.50 if you're in the area.
We entered Spain and turned off onto some small EM-xxxx roads. These were really strange. They looked like brand new tarmac on Google maps...
But it was like they'd tarmacked straight over a corrugated dirt road. Strange and not conducive to progress. On the upside the views were lovely, with some stunning rock formations.
Our endpoint was a border town filled with with motorbikes. We had a couple of hoots as we drove past a fleet of them sat outside a restaurant so I gave a wave and a rev.
They gave us a smile as we walked in after parking, for another massive lunch (despite ordering half size mains).Back down the way we came and more of the same! This time we parked sensibly in an actual parking area which cost us €15 for the night.
Thank you both!
Next day was a drive down to Nazare via tollway where nothing much exciting happened except a big seafood lunch on the coast. The famous big waves of Nazare weren't big but it was a nice place and we ate well. We asked about parking at the hotel but the check-in lady said "oooh, not with that car, you won't make it" so we parked on the street for €0.
Next day was a 227km drive up to Covilha via an amazing monastery at Batalha - if you're in the area do it!
https://maps.app.goo.gl/HFHJoywarWFMPVUP7
We'd found the N-238 which crosses Bear Valley and that was metal enough that I wanted to go! And it was great: the reservoir was again low but the road was great tarmac, empty and full of corners.
The road got a little worse and then a little better as it climbed up onto a ridge line, but it never got worse than great!
We stopped at a lovely restaurant for lunch. The guys did the Portuguese thing where they're kind of unfriendly and dour, and after 30 minutes open up and they're as friendly as can be. It was the first day of their new menu so we waited a while for our meals but no bother after they'd explained it.
https://maps.app.goo.gl/mXBQqs9fMx98wQzw5
Into Covilha which is a mountain town stretched into a small city across a couple of mountain sides - it just kept going forever! We made it to the heart of town where our hotel is...
We parked up and they showed us the €15 a night parking garage but we decided we wouldn't make it up the driveway without removing the front spoiler. The reception women got a bit stty with is when we asked if we could park in the street parking, but it's free sooo. More €0 parking making up for our Braga Hospital fail!! 
(One for the crap parking thread but I straightened up afterwards, honest Gov)
We met some barking mad Irishmen in town when we went for beers and had craft beer and localised hamburger for dinner. So. Much. Success.
Next day was a drive down to Nazare via tollway where nothing much exciting happened except a big seafood lunch on the coast. The famous big waves of Nazare weren't big but it was a nice place and we ate well. We asked about parking at the hotel but the check-in lady said "oooh, not with that car, you won't make it" so we parked on the street for €0.
Next day was a 227km drive up to Covilha via an amazing monastery at Batalha - if you're in the area do it!
https://maps.app.goo.gl/HFHJoywarWFMPVUP7
We'd found the N-238 which crosses Bear Valley and that was metal enough that I wanted to go! And it was great: the reservoir was again low but the road was great tarmac, empty and full of corners.
The road got a little worse and then a little better as it climbed up onto a ridge line, but it never got worse than great!
We stopped at a lovely restaurant for lunch. The guys did the Portuguese thing where they're kind of unfriendly and dour, and after 30 minutes open up and they're as friendly as can be. It was the first day of their new menu so we waited a while for our meals but no bother after they'd explained it.
https://maps.app.goo.gl/mXBQqs9fMx98wQzw5
Into Covilha which is a mountain town stretched into a small city across a couple of mountain sides - it just kept going forever! We made it to the heart of town where our hotel is...
We parked up and they showed us the €15 a night parking garage but we decided we wouldn't make it up the driveway without removing the front spoiler. The reception women got a bit s
tty with is when we asked if we could park in the street parking, but it's free sooo. More €0 parking making up for our Braga Hospital fail!! (One for the crap parking thread but I straightened up afterwards, honest Gov)
We met some barking mad Irishmen in town when we went for beers and had craft beer and localised hamburger for dinner. So. Much. Success.
Oh, and for the sake of clarity, this is our current luggage. We have expanded a little because of a few cans of craft beer and a bottle of Aguagente.
And my Portuguese is now on a similar level to the rest of my Western European languages - I can confidently say:
And my Portuguese is now on a similar level to the rest of my Western European languages - I can confidently say:
- Hello.
- One glass of white wine and one large beer please.
- Thank you.
- The bill please.
This is it, 170km round the National park and essentially why I planned this holiday. Weather looked poop for the afternoon so we woke up earlier than normal (bless you BBB!).
https://goo.gl/maps/WZsTKyQmnaDJZXvQ6
We got 98 go-juice out of town after a bit of back and forth and hit the N-230. Ferkel was coming up to temp but we were behind bimbling dawdlers for the first section through various towns so all good.
After the first waypoint we were out of traffic and in the good stuff - noisy mode engaged and waking up sheep! We past an old land rover and a herd of be-lycraed bicyclists and turned off up the N-231 into the park proper.
There seemed to be a fair bit of logging going on - I guess their view in what a "National Park" is different to mine, but the views were still spectacular. And the road was worth the drive from the UK!
We came back down, out of the park, through some towns and boring roads with lots of traffic. If you're going, don't do the same Northern bit on the N-17, just turn around and head back up another road.
Upwards on the N-232 and this was an amazing bit of tarmac.
Stunning views through some strange scrub bush - we even got out for a walk which is very unlike me when I'm on a driving mission!
At this stage the traffic was building up, we got caught between a bus and a camper van and the rain was starting, so we just cruised into Covilha.
We had a wonderful lunch at Alkimya in town with a bottle of local wine and a very lazy afternoon!
https://goo.gl/maps/WZsTKyQmnaDJZXvQ6
We got 98 go-juice out of town after a bit of back and forth and hit the N-230. Ferkel was coming up to temp but we were behind bimbling dawdlers for the first section through various towns so all good.
After the first waypoint we were out of traffic and in the good stuff - noisy mode engaged and waking up sheep! We past an old land rover and a herd of be-lycraed bicyclists and turned off up the N-231 into the park proper.
There seemed to be a fair bit of logging going on - I guess their view in what a "National Park" is different to mine, but the views were still spectacular. And the road was worth the drive from the UK!
We came back down, out of the park, through some towns and boring roads with lots of traffic. If you're going, don't do the same Northern bit on the N-17, just turn around and head back up another road.
Upwards on the N-232 and this was an amazing bit of tarmac.
Stunning views through some strange scrub bush - we even got out for a walk which is very unlike me when I'm on a driving mission!
At this stage the traffic was building up, we got caught between a bus and a camper van and the rain was starting, so we just cruised into Covilha.
We had a wonderful lunch at Alkimya in town with a bottle of local wine and a very lazy afternoon!
Sounds great, and well done on mastering Portugese! I really struggle with it and somehow got a Tripe sandwich when I thought I had asked for a "ham" sandwich.
The logging you mention is the removal of large areas of Eucalyptus.
It was planted to supply the paper/pulp industry, but the large areas of monoculture create a problem with forest fires. Eucalyptus burns easily and hot, plus the bark literally flies off and floats large distances before starting a new fire which makes control difficult.
The native mixed forests are more fire resilient and maintain soil moisture better, so the government are starting to provide incentives to remove the Eucalyptus. A similar thing is happening in North West Spain.
Safe and fun travels.
The logging you mention is the removal of large areas of Eucalyptus.
It was planted to supply the paper/pulp industry, but the large areas of monoculture create a problem with forest fires. Eucalyptus burns easily and hot, plus the bark literally flies off and floats large distances before starting a new fire which makes control difficult.
The native mixed forests are more fire resilient and maintain soil moisture better, so the government are starting to provide incentives to remove the Eucalyptus. A similar thing is happening in North West Spain.
Safe and fun travels.
M11rph said:
Sounds great, and well done on mastering Portugese! I really struggle with it and somehow got a Tripe sandwich when I thought I had asked for a "ham" sandwich.
I thought my Spanish was even better but I ended up with boiled pigs ear today for lunch now we're back in Spain! Fail. 
M11rph said:
The logging you mention is the removal of large areas of Eucalyptus.
It was planted to supply the paper/pulp industry, but the large areas of monoculture create a problem with forest fires. Eucalyptus burns easily and hot, plus the bark literally flies off and floats large distances before starting a new fire which makes control difficult.
The native mixed forests are more fire resilient and maintain soil moisture better, so the government are starting to provide incentives to remove the Eucalyptus. A similar thing is happening in North West Spain.
Safe and fun travels.
We're Australians so aware of the flammable nature of eucalyptus but it was only this trip we figured out it's the most populous tree in Portugal - I'm glad they're logging it then! Having said that, it's been nice to see it again and be reminded of home.It was planted to supply the paper/pulp industry, but the large areas of monoculture create a problem with forest fires. Eucalyptus burns easily and hot, plus the bark literally flies off and floats large distances before starting a new fire which makes control difficult.
The native mixed forests are more fire resilient and maintain soil moisture better, so the government are starting to provide incentives to remove the Eucalyptus. A similar thing is happening in North West Spain.
Safe and fun travels.
ECG1000 said:
Thoroughly enjoyed reading that and catching up on the adventures!
This is the first time I've read your updates since the unfortunate parting of your R8, so really happy for you both to be back out there on the road in another proper car.
Thank you! This is the first time I've read your updates since the unfortunate parting of your R8, so really happy for you both to be back out there on the road in another proper car.
So the next day we were heading up to the Duoro valley for some wine-time for BBB. 167km but the main draw card was the road through the middle of the park which we didn't do the day before.
https://goo.gl/maps/ikcSShkwqkuvHgQD9
Weather was not looking promising. At all.
We checked out and set off and headed up into the clouds and rain along the N-339.
Obviously, I wasn't setting any records here but we were still having fun. The road is utterly glorious and we were getting peaks and rock formations peaking out of the clouds as we went. There was sod all traffic as all the smart people were tucked up in bed or in a warm restaurant somewhere!
We headed up to the torre which is the highpoint. Some king had placed a tower to take the mountain from 199x meters to the full 2000 - no photos because it was getting crazy windy and miserable outside by now!
We also had some mysterious cows appearing occasionally:
Back down the hill for more of the same, some boring N roads until we got to the M-515 which got increasingly good looking as we came out into the Távora valley on a side river to the Duoro. By the time we got to the N-323 the views were properly jaw dropping - layer upon layer of terraces up and down impossibly steep valley sides. The road was... exciting? It was good most of the time but we found when some acacia / pine trees grow quite close to the road they must grow roots under it and push up some really quite aggressive ripples. Can you jump a Porsche?
Difficult to capture the majesty/verticality so here's Ferkel's ass:
We dropped out into the Duoro and stumbled straight into some cheese, ham and wine:
Onwards to Pinhão, which is a lovely town on the river full of vineyards - you should go.
Next day was wine tasting and buying while walking around in the drizzle:
Our landlord's mother also washed our clothes for us (okay, sure) but no dryer and sodden weather meant not everything dried. I'd always wondered if there was anything useful I could use the rear parcel shelf thing in Ferkel for and it turns out...
And whilst we're on the subject, you can see the little cubby hole with the slide shut cover up behind the passenger seat? These had always kind of irritated me - to access them through the boot you have to lean against the car but access is tricky with the fixed back seats through the other side. But! It turns out you can fit three bottles of wine each side perfectly! It's almost like they designed it that way.
https://goo.gl/maps/ikcSShkwqkuvHgQD9
Weather was not looking promising. At all.
We checked out and set off and headed up into the clouds and rain along the N-339.Obviously, I wasn't setting any records here but we were still having fun. The road is utterly glorious and we were getting peaks and rock formations peaking out of the clouds as we went. There was sod all traffic as all the smart people were tucked up in bed or in a warm restaurant somewhere!
We headed up to the torre which is the highpoint. Some king had placed a tower to take the mountain from 199x meters to the full 2000 - no photos because it was getting crazy windy and miserable outside by now!
We also had some mysterious cows appearing occasionally:
Back down the hill for more of the same, some boring N roads until we got to the M-515 which got increasingly good looking as we came out into the Távora valley on a side river to the Duoro. By the time we got to the N-323 the views were properly jaw dropping - layer upon layer of terraces up and down impossibly steep valley sides. The road was... exciting? It was good most of the time but we found when some acacia / pine trees grow quite close to the road they must grow roots under it and push up some really quite aggressive ripples. Can you jump a Porsche?
Difficult to capture the majesty/verticality so here's Ferkel's ass:
We dropped out into the Duoro and stumbled straight into some cheese, ham and wine:
Onwards to Pinhão, which is a lovely town on the river full of vineyards - you should go.
Next day was wine tasting and buying while walking around in the drizzle:
Our landlord's mother also washed our clothes for us (okay, sure) but no dryer and sodden weather meant not everything dried. I'd always wondered if there was anything useful I could use the rear parcel shelf thing in Ferkel for and it turns out...
And whilst we're on the subject, you can see the little cubby hole with the slide shut cover up behind the passenger seat? These had always kind of irritated me - to access them through the boot you have to lean against the car but access is tricky with the fixed back seats through the other side. But! It turns out you can fit three bottles of wine each side perfectly! It's almost like they designed it that way.
Those cubby holes seem superfluous, until you find a use for them! I stuffed the "required" hi-vis jackets and some microfibres in mine. I like your idea more, although it can get quite toasty in there, might not be too kind on your "holiday essentials"?
I tucked mine in the front, luggage on top to stop them clinking around, nothing posh but the sort of stuff I was drinking in the bars of an evening...
The shop/cafe on Torre must be the cheesiest smelling place I've ever been. A cheesemaker's week old sock wouldn't even be close.
Loving reading about your adventures.
____________________________________________________________________________________________
If you've not done it, and given your shared "enjoyment of the grape" then a stay in Logrono & Haro should be on your shortlist for a subsequent trip if you've not yet done it. Great wines, outstanding tapas/pinxtos, wineries, posh dining if you want, romantic little villages and some very worthwhile driving roads stringing them all together. I had 5 days in the above and felt like that was just the reconnaisance trip for a full scale assault on the home of Rioja, a week would be easy, fortnight? If pushed I could be convinced.
Safe travels and hope the weather plays ball.
I tucked mine in the front, luggage on top to stop them clinking around, nothing posh but the sort of stuff I was drinking in the bars of an evening...
The shop/cafe on Torre must be the cheesiest smelling place I've ever been. A cheesemaker's week old sock wouldn't even be close.
Loving reading about your adventures.
____________________________________________________________________________________________
If you've not done it, and given your shared "enjoyment of the grape" then a stay in Logrono & Haro should be on your shortlist for a subsequent trip if you've not yet done it. Great wines, outstanding tapas/pinxtos, wineries, posh dining if you want, romantic little villages and some very worthwhile driving roads stringing them all together. I had 5 days in the above and felt like that was just the reconnaisance trip for a full scale assault on the home of Rioja, a week would be easy, fortnight? If pushed I could be convinced.
Safe travels and hope the weather plays ball.
Edited by M11rph on Friday 20th October 08:54
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