[Project Post] Citroen AX SPORT 16v [lots of pics]
Discussion
they havent been too unreasonable tbh. they could have just opened the garage and shot all my stuff onto the road.. few grands worth of bits and pieces. ledas, 'special' works shell, my new welding equipment shot blasting gear etc etc lol..
I was planning on removing the engine and getting the bay resprayed ready for next weekend on the burgendy vts you can see in the bottom picture, bit of a pig to do that now without anywhere to work on it :| =[
I was planning on removing the engine and getting the bay resprayed ready for next weekend on the burgendy vts you can see in the bottom picture, bit of a pig to do that now without anywhere to work on it :| =[
benhunt said:
Jessop - what did you end up doing with your "lack of space" problem? Hope it all sorted itself out.
Ben
Having to presevere my friend. Ben
.. dad is still having a good old moan though!!
Bits and pieces from my other VTS which im tidying up ready for summer as the sport wotn be ready!
Chocker garage! and theres still another engine and some other bits and pieces in another garage lol
Edited by Jessop on Thursday 29th May 23:59
Well considering its pretty old skool, has an MSA logbook, and the suspension is set up for competition use, ive been considering a pretty hardcore 8v lump but im unsure yet as i may still be slower than a bog 16v as per discussion on in the engine section.
Some pics of potential engine to go in..
Thoughts people? need some opinions on said idea, also on the 16v route as my other ax (soon to be sold) is already 16v and i enjoy the power and the noise, also it has a huge amount more potential. eventually i will have either a bodied, or boosted vts, but at the moment the idea of a small revvy 8v on bodies sounds kinda cool..
" just a little 1400 " ring any bells? lol!
On top of that, if its going to be built for competition, i would possibly consider going for a BE box eventually as i plan going the boosted route. Im considering fitting these as they are designed to fit my rose jointed wishbones, only problem is maintenence, the dampers wont be cheap to replace as the struts are form a 106 maxi kitcar. the brakes are AP 4pots with rotors & bells, again.. not cheap to replace.. also not dust sealed so i think the wilwoods are overall a better idea, depending how they fair on track and if the dust seals deteriorate due to heat.
Also means slight modification to AX top mounts to fit 3 stud top mounts, rather than the 2 stud ax ones.
Have to admit they do look pretty bad ass in the flesh !
thoughts & suggestions most welcome.
Some pics of potential engine to go in..
Thoughts people? need some opinions on said idea, also on the 16v route as my other ax (soon to be sold) is already 16v and i enjoy the power and the noise, also it has a huge amount more potential. eventually i will have either a bodied, or boosted vts, but at the moment the idea of a small revvy 8v on bodies sounds kinda cool..
" just a little 1400 " ring any bells? lol!
On top of that, if its going to be built for competition, i would possibly consider going for a BE box eventually as i plan going the boosted route. Im considering fitting these as they are designed to fit my rose jointed wishbones, only problem is maintenence, the dampers wont be cheap to replace as the struts are form a 106 maxi kitcar. the brakes are AP 4pots with rotors & bells, again.. not cheap to replace.. also not dust sealed so i think the wilwoods are overall a better idea, depending how they fair on track and if the dust seals deteriorate due to heat.
Also means slight modification to AX top mounts to fit 3 stud top mounts, rather than the 2 stud ax ones.
Have to admit they do look pretty bad ass in the flesh !
thoughts & suggestions most welcome.
Engine
1360cc steel block hillclimb/race engine
Webber Alpha ECU (Gold spec)
Balenced and lightened crank
Big sump (baffled)
New iron block
Steel rods
Forged alloy high compression pistons
Uprated bolts
GMC custom grind cam (details to come)
GMC full race head (details to come)
uprated valve springs (details to come)
40mm Webber Alpha throttle bodies
GMC inlet mani
GMC lightweight flywheel
AP racing lug drive clutch
GMC BTB exhaust mani
sure theres things missed off it, and may not be 100% accurate but still waiting for more detailed info to come though ..
1360cc steel block hillclimb/race engine
Webber Alpha ECU (Gold spec)
Balenced and lightened crank
Big sump (baffled)
New iron block
Steel rods
Forged alloy high compression pistons
Uprated bolts
GMC custom grind cam (details to come)
GMC full race head (details to come)
uprated valve springs (details to come)
40mm Webber Alpha throttle bodies
GMC inlet mani
GMC lightweight flywheel
AP racing lug drive clutch
GMC BTB exhaust mani
sure theres things missed off it, and may not be 100% accurate but still waiting for more detailed info to come though ..
Since the car has been sat in a warehouse for storage for the last few months, well.. Since before summer 2008' anyway ive decided to crack on with this thing again.
Plans have changed somewhat, So here goes...
UPDATE
Small update anyway, but a rather funky one none the less.
Some new bits for the Sport, Engine rebuild on the cards, need a whole load of other bits. Not 100% decided on what turbo to use AS YET, Although 230atw is sounding like a nice figure.
Will have an omex 600 standalone ecu here in the next few weeks too. Think i'm going to have a bash at making my own 'minimalistic' loom, It will do the job fine!
Anyway..., new bits.
Forged Peugeot sport rods
Forged omega low comp pistons
DP Engineering stainless 'blister' manifold with wastegate and T2 flange
DP Engineering stainless 'blister' 2.5' downpipe with 2 lambda attachments & exhaust flange option
DP Engineering Screamer pipe
Turbosmart 'Ultra Gate' 38mm wastegate'
More info on the bits if you were interested:
Manifold: http://www.dp-engineering.nl/EN/products/exhaust_m...
Downpipe: http://www.dp-engineering.nl/EN/products/downpipes...
Wastegate: http://www.dp-engineering.nl/EN/products/wastegate...
Plans have changed somewhat, So here goes...
UPDATE
Small update anyway, but a rather funky one none the less.
Some new bits for the Sport, Engine rebuild on the cards, need a whole load of other bits. Not 100% decided on what turbo to use AS YET, Although 230atw is sounding like a nice figure.
Will have an omex 600 standalone ecu here in the next few weeks too. Think i'm going to have a bash at making my own 'minimalistic' loom, It will do the job fine!
Anyway..., new bits.
Forged Peugeot sport rods
Forged omega low comp pistons
DP Engineering stainless 'blister' manifold with wastegate and T2 flange
DP Engineering stainless 'blister' 2.5' downpipe with 2 lambda attachments & exhaust flange option
DP Engineering Screamer pipe
Turbosmart 'Ultra Gate' 38mm wastegate'
More info on the bits if you were interested:
Manifold: http://www.dp-engineering.nl/EN/products/exhaust_m...
Downpipe: http://www.dp-engineering.nl/EN/products/downpipes...
Wastegate: http://www.dp-engineering.nl/EN/products/wastegate...
When money permits me to buy one, i'll likley be fitting a GT28RS.. although they are internally wastegated i'll just have to fiddle with it to suit with my external.
Every other project thread i read about saxo/106 turbo's i keep thinking hmm, 300hp sounds good although i think realistically 250atw is more than enough for a serious track toy, considering my suspension setup also. Should be a real weapon on track.
Really looking forward to improving driving skills on track though once its done!
Every other project thread i read about saxo/106 turbo's i keep thinking hmm, 300hp sounds good although i think realistically 250atw is more than enough for a serious track toy, considering my suspension setup also. Should be a real weapon on track.
Really looking forward to improving driving skills on track though once its done!
Sorry, I should have posted up stating that these turbo bits are for the 16v 1.6 engine NOT the 1.4 8v !
The GT28RS will be fine on the 16v. Plenty have used it without issue. Its the GT3071R that most of the drag saxo's use from what ive seen.
Im impressed every time i see this clip of a turbo running said turbo! Far too laggy for my application though.
http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=Or3rvR7Y8Co
http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=DAu_YFtnC_8
The GT28RS will be fine on the 16v. Plenty have used it without issue. Its the GT3071R that most of the drag saxo's use from what ive seen.
Im impressed every time i see this clip of a turbo running said turbo! Far too laggy for my application though.
http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=Or3rvR7Y8Co
http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=DAu_YFtnC_8
Car is still in my lockup at the moment. I just put a load of zinc primer over it to preserve it while it was in storage...
Once ive got the time / money to plow into prep work for the body i'll update some more. Have lots of turbo bits & gearbox bits to purchase first though!
As yet though its fine even after sitting a year, bare in mind though that it wasnt sat outside (in my ownership) where as before, while it was sat outside for a year (see original post) it didnt rust 'too' badly, other than what youve seen in the original post in this thread. It could have been a lot worse.
Im sure if you prep your car/metal right, kurust or whichever you prefer and apply a suitable epoxy primer onto the bare metal it will be fine for a long time to come, unless it doesnt get looked after etc!
Best of luck though!
Once ive got the time / money to plow into prep work for the body i'll update some more. Have lots of turbo bits & gearbox bits to purchase first though!
As yet though its fine even after sitting a year, bare in mind though that it wasnt sat outside (in my ownership) where as before, while it was sat outside for a year (see original post) it didnt rust 'too' badly, other than what youve seen in the original post in this thread. It could have been a lot worse.
Im sure if you prep your car/metal right, kurust or whichever you prefer and apply a suitable epoxy primer onto the bare metal it will be fine for a long time to come, unless it doesnt get looked after etc!
Best of luck though!
Gearbox and BE driveshafts arrived today from a citroen picasso.
Need custom engine mounts to fit the gearbox, various other custom bits like hydraulic clutch to cable clutch, + a LHD peugeot partner clutch cable, possibly even a custom one - wil have to see. Need custom driveshafts also - these are for mock up as i will be retaining the inner and outer CV joints , they are FAR stronger than the saxo & 106 'MA' type driveshafts, as you can see in the picture below.
Need custom engine mounts to fit the gearbox, various other custom bits like hydraulic clutch to cable clutch, + a LHD peugeot partner clutch cable, possibly even a custom one - wil have to see. Need custom driveshafts also - these are for mock up as i will be retaining the inner and outer CV joints , they are FAR stronger than the saxo & 106 'MA' type driveshafts, as you can see in the picture below.
UPDATE
Sick of worrying about how to attack this project.. so decided to crack on over the weekend.
Gearbox Mounts to be made up over the next week, and driveshaft to be measured & shortened to suit once thats done... So can then crack on with wiring. Have decided to sell the Omex, and going Adaptronic instead now, using 8 injectors and a custom inlet manifold which should be made over the next few weeks too. Will look very similar to the DP one.
UPDATE
Genuine citroen mounts, brackets and bushes arrived today, along with a few nuts/washers to make sure its all 'OE'. Theres a queer 'D' shaped washer that goes on the BE mount for example.
More to come once ive had chance to fit it all and had the BE bracket/inner wing mount welded to the AX.
Been shopping for loom bits of late also, so much choice not sure what connectors etc to use yet - will need some advice on that soon. [-o<
UPDATE
For the first time in something like two years, the Sport has an engine sat in the bay, on engine mounts instead of a jack!.. Only this time, with a much bigger gearbox =]
Had a right faff on though with the other mounts as the box section this 'OE' bush sits on was at an odd angle where somebody previously had their attempt at reinforcing it. That required re-making so it sat level. The battery tray was cut out, measurements were taken so the engine sat bang on level in the bay - then i proceeded to tack the 'Picasso' mount on the inner wing. Ive stitched welded across the top and bottom, and two plug welds - proceeded to jump on it once it was done and it wasnt going anywhere so confident the welds have done their job.
Bare in mind though that ive never really welded before, and this is my first attempt at any kind of 'fabrication' work so im happy with how its turned out. It needs a bit of tidying mind but it was late and i've got work tomorrow.
I'll be making the rear engine mount on Tuesday. Ive already got the engine in the bay at the correct angle it needs to sit at, The shafts are a bloody tight fit against the front arms ! The box , with it being bigger than the normal AX/Saxo/106 type is also bloody close to the inner wing too- had to completely ground down whatever trace of the original battery tray supports. Will have to improvise if this causes an issue on track under load, same goes for the shafts and the front arms !
I'll let pics do the talking. =]
Prodded some more at this side..
Decided cut it out and start from scratch..
New piece mocked up.. Looked about right
Didnt think the welds were 'too' bad considering im a rookie
Finished welding this in, checked and drilled the holes for the Forte mount i'm using.
[i]Supporting plate for the underside of the mount pictured above.. For extra support![/]
Box sectioned off after cutting..
mocking up..
CLOSE..
Welded in piece
End piece for support welded on
Engine level in the bay
The 'BE' 'Pin' type mount
Diff housing pretty close to lower arm
Decided to take a break and re-check measurements at this point.. 'Measure twice.. cut once' so they say =]
Tacked on 'picasso' tray
First time the car has had an engine support itself for two year..
Stitch welded across the top
Voila..
I'll probably box off the front/back bits i think too for a bit extra support, but i very much doubt it'd move anywhere as it is. Dont want to chance it with the torque i'll be running with the turbo engine on track though.. Some of those apex's are big !
Trial run of some straight pipe between the diff and the wheel hubs..
I need to get some Pug 306 type wheel hubs and have them machined down to fit the AX wheel bearings now so i can crack on making some mock-up shafts. I've a pair of citroen Picasso shafts in the garage, i intend on keeping the Intermediate bearing carrier.. It wont quite be bang on equal length, but nearer than one massivley logn shaft, and one really short !
Sick of worrying about how to attack this project.. so decided to crack on over the weekend.
Gearbox Mounts to be made up over the next week, and driveshaft to be measured & shortened to suit once thats done... So can then crack on with wiring. Have decided to sell the Omex, and going Adaptronic instead now, using 8 injectors and a custom inlet manifold which should be made over the next few weeks too. Will look very similar to the DP one.
UPDATE
Genuine citroen mounts, brackets and bushes arrived today, along with a few nuts/washers to make sure its all 'OE'. Theres a queer 'D' shaped washer that goes on the BE mount for example.
More to come once ive had chance to fit it all and had the BE bracket/inner wing mount welded to the AX.
Been shopping for loom bits of late also, so much choice not sure what connectors etc to use yet - will need some advice on that soon. [-o<
UPDATE
For the first time in something like two years, the Sport has an engine sat in the bay, on engine mounts instead of a jack!.. Only this time, with a much bigger gearbox =]
Had a right faff on though with the other mounts as the box section this 'OE' bush sits on was at an odd angle where somebody previously had their attempt at reinforcing it. That required re-making so it sat level. The battery tray was cut out, measurements were taken so the engine sat bang on level in the bay - then i proceeded to tack the 'Picasso' mount on the inner wing. Ive stitched welded across the top and bottom, and two plug welds - proceeded to jump on it once it was done and it wasnt going anywhere so confident the welds have done their job.
Bare in mind though that ive never really welded before, and this is my first attempt at any kind of 'fabrication' work so im happy with how its turned out. It needs a bit of tidying mind but it was late and i've got work tomorrow.
I'll be making the rear engine mount on Tuesday. Ive already got the engine in the bay at the correct angle it needs to sit at, The shafts are a bloody tight fit against the front arms ! The box , with it being bigger than the normal AX/Saxo/106 type is also bloody close to the inner wing too- had to completely ground down whatever trace of the original battery tray supports. Will have to improvise if this causes an issue on track under load, same goes for the shafts and the front arms !
I'll let pics do the talking. =]
Prodded some more at this side..
Decided cut it out and start from scratch..
New piece mocked up.. Looked about right
Didnt think the welds were 'too' bad considering im a rookie
Finished welding this in, checked and drilled the holes for the Forte mount i'm using.
[i]Supporting plate for the underside of the mount pictured above.. For extra support![/]
Box sectioned off after cutting..
mocking up..
CLOSE..
Welded in piece
End piece for support welded on
Engine level in the bay
The 'BE' 'Pin' type mount
Diff housing pretty close to lower arm
Decided to take a break and re-check measurements at this point.. 'Measure twice.. cut once' so they say =]
Tacked on 'picasso' tray
First time the car has had an engine support itself for two year..
Stitch welded across the top
Voila..
I'll probably box off the front/back bits i think too for a bit extra support, but i very much doubt it'd move anywhere as it is. Dont want to chance it with the torque i'll be running with the turbo engine on track though.. Some of those apex's are big !
Trial run of some straight pipe between the diff and the wheel hubs..
I need to get some Pug 306 type wheel hubs and have them machined down to fit the AX wheel bearings now so i can crack on making some mock-up shafts. I've a pair of citroen Picasso shafts in the garage, i intend on keeping the Intermediate bearing carrier.. It wont quite be bang on equal length, but nearer than one massivley logn shaft, and one really short !
Quick update on this thread as it's been forever and i'm somewhat motivated as of late.
Got the engine in situ all fine now. Rear engine mount was welded up so i can still use a standard rear bush (powerflex in this case) so it's not running solid which ultimately caused it to retire from it's last rally from a snapped mount!
Had some peugeot 306 wheel hubs turned down to fit the 38mm (iirc?) Saxo wheel bearing i'm using in my struts. All alignment with the caliper is fine too so cooking on gas in that respect.
Also had the O/S driveshaft turned down and welded up by Scott at efi-parts. I had every faith this will work fine considering he uses the same method on his 700+bhp Renault 5.
Picked up some wheels too
Some more goodies arrived in the post..
During winter i made a start knocking up a wiring diagram too so I know what i'm doing when it comes to pulling the wires through. Will be making a full harness from ground up so no need to worry about chopping out a RHD dash loom to suit a LHD car - the original wiring harness on the car was an absolute mess of bullet connectors which had come apart etc. Making a new one is just easier (and lighter!!!)
I ended up moving unit's too after mine got broken into. pretty much all my tools dissapeared, along with a stainless exhust, engine crane the works. Absolute nightmare and a set back for funding the project
Car is now best part of an hours drive away each way so now it's a chore really BUT at least i know it's safe where it is.
Had to stick the bonnet etc back on the car , really looked the part!
Made a start on the interior and finished welding up holes in the floorpan and got the A & B pillars welded on. Looks mean now.
Had a little mess on and put the manifold on to see what it looks like.
.. Spent an eternity sanding and removing as much paint from the interior i could too remove any rust etc. Lashed down some etch primer on it and sorted out welding some
Discovered i need a new sill too on the O/S which i'll get sorted in the next few weeks. I'm torn what to do about painting the interior and engine bay mind. Should i aerosol it or just blast some cellulose over it and hope it comes up shiny, considering i can't buff it really due to no panel being flat haha.
Sure there's been some bit's i've missed out too. However i have a month off in September. Whether i decide to blitz this. get it painted and wired up and bolt the new engine in is the question - or do i book tickets to go travelling round Thailand, the greek islands etc and yet again delay this project? hmmm
Got the engine in situ all fine now. Rear engine mount was welded up so i can still use a standard rear bush (powerflex in this case) so it's not running solid which ultimately caused it to retire from it's last rally from a snapped mount!
Had some peugeot 306 wheel hubs turned down to fit the 38mm (iirc?) Saxo wheel bearing i'm using in my struts. All alignment with the caliper is fine too so cooking on gas in that respect.
Also had the O/S driveshaft turned down and welded up by Scott at efi-parts. I had every faith this will work fine considering he uses the same method on his 700+bhp Renault 5.
Picked up some wheels too
Some more goodies arrived in the post..
During winter i made a start knocking up a wiring diagram too so I know what i'm doing when it comes to pulling the wires through. Will be making a full harness from ground up so no need to worry about chopping out a RHD dash loom to suit a LHD car - the original wiring harness on the car was an absolute mess of bullet connectors which had come apart etc. Making a new one is just easier (and lighter!!!)
I ended up moving unit's too after mine got broken into. pretty much all my tools dissapeared, along with a stainless exhust, engine crane the works. Absolute nightmare and a set back for funding the project
Car is now best part of an hours drive away each way so now it's a chore really BUT at least i know it's safe where it is.
Had to stick the bonnet etc back on the car , really looked the part!
Made a start on the interior and finished welding up holes in the floorpan and got the A & B pillars welded on. Looks mean now.
Had a little mess on and put the manifold on to see what it looks like.
.. Spent an eternity sanding and removing as much paint from the interior i could too remove any rust etc. Lashed down some etch primer on it and sorted out welding some
Discovered i need a new sill too on the O/S which i'll get sorted in the next few weeks. I'm torn what to do about painting the interior and engine bay mind. Should i aerosol it or just blast some cellulose over it and hope it comes up shiny, considering i can't buff it really due to no panel being flat haha.
Sure there's been some bit's i've missed out too. However i have a month off in September. Whether i decide to blitz this. get it painted and wired up and bolt the new engine in is the question - or do i book tickets to go travelling round Thailand, the greek islands etc and yet again delay this project? hmmm
Well it's always a learning curve.. It seems the work i did before (by hand with grit paper and a scraper) was a bit meaningless really.
Speaking to some people and looking at various race car prep blogs i've decided to just strip it to bare metal (well, the important bits anyway!) and go from there after noticing this etch primer reacting in some places and a bit of surface rust around some edges appearing after only a few weeks.
Currently stripping the underside of the car and invested in some Bilt Hamber Electrox zinc rich primer and their Epoxy Mastic paint, which will serve as underseal. I have some Dynax S50 for cavity protection & various box sections such as sills etc.
After speaking to them on the phone they will be releasing a 'stone chip' solution for wheel arches so we'll go from there on that front, but the epoxy mastic they said should stand up well enough without any additional 'waxy' protection on top..
NOTE.. THIS IS AN EXTREMELY TIME CONSUMING , FRUSTRATING JOB.. .. and that's before i even get to the mess as a result lol. The R5 GT Turbo and 205 Mi16 in the unit fortunately have dust sheets on, would be an awkward clean up job otherwise..
Few pics of progress.. i'll start with this repairs on the sill I did not too long ago, please bare in mind I'm still a total novice with fabrication and the welder but turned out okay
Tidy up with the grinder, some seam seal, filler & paint and came out okay. solid now which is the main thing! it wont be seen under the bodykit anyway..
Speaking to some people and looking at various race car prep blogs i've decided to just strip it to bare metal (well, the important bits anyway!) and go from there after noticing this etch primer reacting in some places and a bit of surface rust around some edges appearing after only a few weeks.
Currently stripping the underside of the car and invested in some Bilt Hamber Electrox zinc rich primer and their Epoxy Mastic paint, which will serve as underseal. I have some Dynax S50 for cavity protection & various box sections such as sills etc.
After speaking to them on the phone they will be releasing a 'stone chip' solution for wheel arches so we'll go from there on that front, but the epoxy mastic they said should stand up well enough without any additional 'waxy' protection on top..
NOTE.. THIS IS AN EXTREMELY TIME CONSUMING , FRUSTRATING JOB.. .. and that's before i even get to the mess as a result lol. The R5 GT Turbo and 205 Mi16 in the unit fortunately have dust sheets on, would be an awkward clean up job otherwise..
Few pics of progress.. i'll start with this repairs on the sill I did not too long ago, please bare in mind I'm still a total novice with fabrication and the welder but turned out okay
Tidy up with the grinder, some seam seal, filler & paint and came out okay. solid now which is the main thing! it wont be seen under the bodykit anyway..
Here's the progress with the underside & underseal 'project' stage.
I'll start with this one..
Here's how it looked before anyway.
Removed the waxoyl with thinners on the floorpans to see what it looked like..
various battle scars from rallying days with the brown stuff lurking..
Weapons of choice...
Started stripping a front NS arch/inner wing.. Most of it was fine, a few bits that i'm happy i stripped it back for though. Especially on the plate that's been welded up inside the top of the arch for reinforcement i guess. (it's all twin-skinned)
Stripped underside floorpan back.. See various holes from pop-rivets etc that have been welded over already.
Tea break..
Rear floorpan work in progress. (now mostly done)
Thinners to remove the massive amount of waxoyl in the rear arches.. Makes life much easier to remove just the stone chip than it is with the waxoyl on top.
The 'easy' access bit stripped. All seems fine!! Just the bits round the edges of the arch and the bumper mounts that have a bit of surface rust on.
Your probably thinking it doesnt seem too bad right? Well truth be told it really isnt, but it still needs work.. see below.
Mafia had a field day on this..
Some work needed on box section near the front underneith.
B Pillar floor mounting point. the original skin of the shell has completely failed. got replaced.
welded and seam sealed.
Do have some goodies though. Lower arm/kidney plate strengthening plates to weld inside. Will do a good job. the upper side has been twin skinned already, i will also weld some bars down to them from the bulkhead or top mounts (either or) for extra strength.
Three litres of this (hope it's enough) to go on soon. Once those rear arches are done, and i'm going to strip the sill's back too so everything under the bodykit is properly protected (and there's no more nasties hidden!)
This for primer
http://www.bilthamber.com/paints-and-coatings/elec...
This is the epoxy mastic. Again, i hope 3 litres will be enough.. It all adds up!
http://www.bilthamber.com/paints-and-coatings/epox...
For cavities - Dynax S50
http://www.bilthamber.com/cavity-waxes/dynax-s50
Thanks for Bilt Hamber for being so prompt with delivery and for the good advice over the phone
More to come.
I'll start with this one..
Here's how it looked before anyway.
Removed the waxoyl with thinners on the floorpans to see what it looked like..
various battle scars from rallying days with the brown stuff lurking..
Weapons of choice...
Started stripping a front NS arch/inner wing.. Most of it was fine, a few bits that i'm happy i stripped it back for though. Especially on the plate that's been welded up inside the top of the arch for reinforcement i guess. (it's all twin-skinned)
Stripped underside floorpan back.. See various holes from pop-rivets etc that have been welded over already.
Tea break..
Rear floorpan work in progress. (now mostly done)
Thinners to remove the massive amount of waxoyl in the rear arches.. Makes life much easier to remove just the stone chip than it is with the waxoyl on top.
The 'easy' access bit stripped. All seems fine!! Just the bits round the edges of the arch and the bumper mounts that have a bit of surface rust on.
Your probably thinking it doesnt seem too bad right? Well truth be told it really isnt, but it still needs work.. see below.
Mafia had a field day on this..
Some work needed on box section near the front underneith.
B Pillar floor mounting point. the original skin of the shell has completely failed. got replaced.
welded and seam sealed.
Do have some goodies though. Lower arm/kidney plate strengthening plates to weld inside. Will do a good job. the upper side has been twin skinned already, i will also weld some bars down to them from the bulkhead or top mounts (either or) for extra strength.
Three litres of this (hope it's enough) to go on soon. Once those rear arches are done, and i'm going to strip the sill's back too so everything under the bodykit is properly protected (and there's no more nasties hidden!)
This for primer
http://www.bilthamber.com/paints-and-coatings/elec...
This is the epoxy mastic. Again, i hope 3 litres will be enough.. It all adds up!
http://www.bilthamber.com/paints-and-coatings/epox...
For cavities - Dynax S50
http://www.bilthamber.com/cavity-waxes/dynax-s50
Thanks for Bilt Hamber for being so prompt with delivery and for the good advice over the phone
More to come.
I forgot to add also, engine is built!
Spec:
16k JP4 block,
Wossner pistons,
PEC rods,
ACL race bearings,
Peugeot Sport Sump Baffle,
CAT Cams 734 turbo cams (new grind),
Well ported head with cut back valve guides,
RS turbo spark plugs,
Lightweight alloy alternator pulley kit,
Modified sump for oil feed,
Modified thermostat housing for turbo water feed
JP4S Alloy inlet manifold
630cc Injectors
Helix 6paddle clutch. Although I'll probably come to fit an AP Twin plate before it goes in the car.
Adaptronic ECU
Still undecided on a GTX2860 turbo yet. I've noticed Owen Developments have a GT25/28 hybrid which they say is ideal for a 1.6 > 2.0 for 170 - 270bhp.
Realistically this may offer a better solution for a track/circuit car rather than making even more power higher up the rpm range.
The quaife/gripper (whichever i choose) diff and the BE box should be up to the job!
Spec:
16k JP4 block,
Wossner pistons,
PEC rods,
ACL race bearings,
Peugeot Sport Sump Baffle,
CAT Cams 734 turbo cams (new grind),
Well ported head with cut back valve guides,
RS turbo spark plugs,
Lightweight alloy alternator pulley kit,
Modified sump for oil feed,
Modified thermostat housing for turbo water feed
JP4S Alloy inlet manifold
630cc Injectors
Helix 6paddle clutch. Although I'll probably come to fit an AP Twin plate before it goes in the car.
Adaptronic ECU
Still undecided on a GTX2860 turbo yet. I've noticed Owen Developments have a GT25/28 hybrid which they say is ideal for a 1.6 > 2.0 for 170 - 270bhp.
Realistically this may offer a better solution for a track/circuit car rather than making even more power higher up the rpm range.
The quaife/gripper (whichever i choose) diff and the BE box should be up to the job!
They're actually from Citroen. I can't remember the part numbers off the top of my head but they are about 9 quid each. Bargain! There are outer plates too which weld to the outer side of inhaler wing to the end of the kidney plate. I believe they re much more money though.
EDIT:
Here's the part numbers buddy
EDIT:
Here's the part numbers buddy
Edited by Jessop on Tuesday 26th November 11:15
Been away for the best part of 3 weeks but had a few hours in the unit today to do a bit. Made a start fixing the rusty bits discovered after stripping the underseal away.
Patched the two holes visible from the inside through the offside sill too. Pics above give you the idea.
Functional
Will go over with seam seal once ive got some zinc primer on it.
Will hopefully get the welding finished off Thursday when i'm next down there.
Patched the two holes visible from the inside through the offside sill too. Pics above give you the idea.
Functional
Will go over with seam seal once ive got some zinc primer on it.
Will hopefully get the welding finished off Thursday when i'm next down there.
Another few hours in there today, managed to finish welding a few more random holes up and get the kidney plate strengthening bits in. Need to ideally make sure there's a good bit of seam seal and underseal on to prevent any water getting behind them in future.
Stripped the sill's back and mostly finished the rear arches. Absolute nightmare they are. grinding upside down, cant get it into the corners etc. It looks okay though might have to leave some of the original stone chip on and remove all the waxoyl with thinners and go over it with the new stuff.
I've managed to source a new unit too, 5 minutes from home so have much, much more regular access & updates. It's currently an hour drive away (each way) so only get chance to get down there on my days off as it stands.
Cannot wait to see it with some fresh paint on it and bring it back home.
Loading the car up with boxes of bits to bring home to the new unit (brakes, manifold, satchshift, fuel system, gauges etc) has me excited for bolting it together !!
I wonder if Santa will bring me a GTX2860 this year :/
Stripped the sill's back and mostly finished the rear arches. Absolute nightmare they are. grinding upside down, cant get it into the corners etc. It looks okay though might have to leave some of the original stone chip on and remove all the waxoyl with thinners and go over it with the new stuff.
I've managed to source a new unit too, 5 minutes from home so have much, much more regular access & updates. It's currently an hour drive away (each way) so only get chance to get down there on my days off as it stands.
Cannot wait to see it with some fresh paint on it and bring it back home.
Loading the car up with boxes of bits to bring home to the new unit (brakes, manifold, satchshift, fuel system, gauges etc) has me excited for bolting it together !!
I wonder if Santa will bring me a GTX2860 this year :/
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