Rotrex powered R32
Discussion
zexel said:
Excellent work! Brilliant thread.
Can I ask what these are/do on the brake pads?
Sorry i missed this, I have no idea what they are for, i have wondered myself.Can I ask what these are/do on the brake pads?
A couple of weeks ago I took the car to GTI international at Rockingham, I did a few runs on the 1/8th mile. My best was 7.54 seconds with a top speed of 94.7mph and a 0-60 of 3.31 seconds. I’m pretty pleased with that as its good for a heavy old Golf
Had a lucky escape earlier this week, just as I was leaving home for work I was getting a strong smell of petrol, I stopped at the top of the road and found the rubber hose for the high-pressure feed to the fuel rail had perished and split and was spraying fuel everywhere. Managed to bodge it with a hose clamp so I could get it back on the drive.
Today I replaced both the feed and return lines, on the surface the high pressure hose looked ok, but when I removed it had splits in various places along the entire length, wondering if it’s a manufacturing defect?
The return wasn't looking too good either
Both the feed and return were replaced with Cohline-2240 hose which is good for 10bar and upto 125c so should last for a while
New fuel lines in place with new hose clips
Going Back to Santa pod for VW action on Sunday, thought I'd give some of this a try
Assuming all goes well, the following day the car will be going back to The Phirm to get a pair of Jetex high temperature race cats fitted. The cats will be fitted with V-band clamps so i can remove them for track use.
Assuming all goes well, the following day the car will be going back to The Phirm to get a pair of Jetex high temperature race cats fitted. The cats will be fitted with V-band clamps so i can remove them for track use.
GregK2 said:
Any updates? 
The race fuel didn't make any difference to my 1/4mile times, car did run better though gained a couple of extra mpg's. Also turned the exhausts white
Got the100cell sports cats fitted just before xmas, which has quietened the exhaust down making it soo much nicer to drive on long trips. Not had a chance to see if they have had any effect on performance. Will get some photos next time the car is up on the ramps.
Had an expensive month,
In the pile of boxes there are 2 new MKIV R32 HID headlights, Osram Xenarc night breaker unlimited D2S lamps, Osram Silverstar H7 lamps, and the big box is a new headlining.
The headlining is because this happened over xmas
The sunroof leaked again leaving watermarks in the headlining (drains were clear!). I was hoping to be able to clean it, however the fabric is starting to peel away from the backing so decided to replace.
In preparation for swapping the headlining I had to remove the pillar trims which gave me a opportunity to give them a well needed clean.
After a few applications of Autoglym interior shampoo the trims were looking a lot better.
There were some marks I couldn’t remove, however they are hidden by other bits of trim so I’m not too worried.
Currently the plan once I get a dry weekend is to remove the old headlining and drop the whole sunroof mechanism out so I can give the drain channels a good clean and replace the seal around the edge of the glass.
While I wait for the weather to improve I got on with swapping the headlights,
Shiny and new
14 year old Xenon lamp vs new, what doesn’t show on the photo that well is that the capsule where the arc? Is formed has gone cloudy.
The main reason I decided to change the headlights was that I noticed they didn’t seem to illuminate the road as well as the headlights in my new UP!
When I removed the headlights I found the projector lenses had gone cloudy, so decided to change them as they are notoriously difficult to dismantle for cleaning
Photo through old headlight
Same with new
Bit different!
Didn't get photos of the new lights fitted as it started chucking it down just as I finished.
Car is booked in to the VW dealer later this week to get the new headlights aligned properly.
Made more progress today with fixing the leak from the sunroof, got the headlining removed so I could drop the sunroof mechanism out to replace the seal around the edge the glass.
Sunroof removed
Decided to do it this way as it would keep the glass aligned and at the correct height.
Old seal with algae and gunk along the bottom edge
The drain channels were cleaner than I expected
Pressing new seal into the glass
All done
Got the sunroof refitted, was a bit of a faff to get it all aligned properly but went back together ok. Best of all, after a test with a can of water poured around the edge of the glass proved it was leak free
Next I started looking at the headlining, the original had all the wiring for the interior lights and alarm sensors attached to it which would need transferring to the new one.
Old with wiring
New without wiring.
It was at this point I noticed a significant problem with the new headlining, the fabric is a different finish to the original
. With the cover panel for the sunroof motor in place the difference is obvious.
Guess this is what happens when purchasing parts for a car that has been out of production for 13 years. Now need to decide what to do as none of the pillar trims will match the new headlining, so either got to replace everything or return the new headlining and try to clean/repair the original.
I have e-mailed the parts guy at my local dealer to check if the headlining I have is the correct one, if it is an VW changed the fabric style during production I have a decision to make.
Rough estimate from my old copy of ETKA to replace everything assuming the same fabric finish as the new headlining.
A pillar trim £25 each
B pillar trim £43 each
C pillar trim £85 each
Sunroof panel £233
Total £539
Maybe the parts guy will feel sorry for me and give a significant discount
Sunroof removed
Decided to do it this way as it would keep the glass aligned and at the correct height.
Old seal with algae and gunk along the bottom edge
The drain channels were cleaner than I expected
Pressing new seal into the glass
All done
Got the sunroof refitted, was a bit of a faff to get it all aligned properly but went back together ok. Best of all, after a test with a can of water poured around the edge of the glass proved it was leak free
Next I started looking at the headlining, the original had all the wiring for the interior lights and alarm sensors attached to it which would need transferring to the new one.
Old with wiring
New without wiring.
It was at this point I noticed a significant problem with the new headlining, the fabric is a different finish to the original
. With the cover panel for the sunroof motor in place the difference is obvious.Guess this is what happens when purchasing parts for a car that has been out of production for 13 years. Now need to decide what to do as none of the pillar trims will match the new headlining, so either got to replace everything or return the new headlining and try to clean/repair the original.
I have e-mailed the parts guy at my local dealer to check if the headlining I have is the correct one, if it is an VW changed the fabric style during production I have a decision to make.
Rough estimate from my old copy of ETKA to replace everything assuming the same fabric finish as the new headlining.
A pillar trim £25 each
B pillar trim £43 each
C pillar trim £85 each
Sunroof panel £233
Total £539
Maybe the parts guy will feel sorry for me and give a significant discount
Blue32 said:
Thanks, it will certainly will fly when it’s done, You’ll have to get one so you can keep up
The last few parts I have been waiting for arrived today
I couldn’t resist unpacking some of the bigger bits
Next step is to get it all fitted.
hello, I have to compliment you for the work you did on this r32! he's a real monster, he's scared even at the porsche. I have a problem I have acuistato an audi tt mk1 225hp and I want to mount a complete 3.2 dsg engine derived from audi a3 8p. to speed up my time I'm looking for information on electrical wiring. I wanted to know if you already have a diagram of the electrical wiring that go from the gearbox to the engine control unit - selector lever - speedometer - fuse box etc. if I had them printed in a pen, I would be very happy.The last few parts I have been waiting for arrived today
I couldn’t resist unpacking some of the bigger bits
Next step is to get it all fitted
.a curiosity how can the bus wiring work on a car that does not have it? I hope you can give me a hand.
sorry my english but I write from Italy and I can not wait to be able to use my tt 3.2 turbo dsg .. the 3.2 vr6 was my dream when I was 16 and now I want to give this dream to 30 .. bye Bye
Marco Storti
Parma
ETA
Best not to put you email addy on a public forum.
Edited by Big Al. on Sunday 1st July 10:29
Finally got the reverse lights working as since fitting he DSG gearbox the reverse lights never worked, due to the car the gearbox came from used the CANBUS to control the lights.
I started off by trying to go high tech by programming an Arduino to sniff the CAN BUS for the reverse signal. Struggled with decoding the signals no the CAN Bus so gave up.
Next attempt was to pick up a signal from the shifter, the shifter has magnets on the moving parts and magnetic sensors on the PCB. As the shifter is moved between P, R, N, D, S the magnets operate the sensors.
I found the output of one of the sensors would turn on when the shifter was put into reverse. The plan was to use the signal to operate a relay.
All went well until I shorted something on the shifter which resulted in he car being immobilised in the middle of the drive for a week while I sourced a new shifter.
Using my blown up shifter as a test bed I built a small circuit which used a optical sensor to operate the reverse lights relay.
The sensor works by sending an infrared beam out which is picked up by a detector when it passes a reflective surface. To make the reflective surface I glued some foil to the shifter mechanism.
Sensor in place on shifter
To wire the circuit into the car I decided I wanted to use the correct colour coded wire for power and control signal to the reverse lights relay. I dug out the remains of the TT wiring loom that I got when I began the conversion.
While looking for the wire colours I needed, a “helper” came over for a look
After deciding he didn’t know anything about VW electrics and not liking the taste of loom tape and PVC wire he wondered off.
Mounted the circuit in a small box, and used a 9 pin D type connector so it can be removed if there are any problems with it later on.
Foil reflector on shifter in car
Optical sensor mounted and wiring secured to existing wiring
Box mounted on relay plate
Working reverse lightsfor first time in nearly 3 years
Also got the head lining sorted, I found a supplier on ebay that did the matching fabric, only downside is it is foam backed so not easy to stick to the backing board. A pleat had to be sewn into the fabric so it could be held up against the backing board.
Colour match is close enough it’s too noticeable.
Its better than the old water stained fabric that was peeling off the backing board.
I started off by trying to go high tech by programming an Arduino to sniff the CAN BUS for the reverse signal. Struggled with decoding the signals no the CAN Bus so gave up.
Next attempt was to pick up a signal from the shifter, the shifter has magnets on the moving parts and magnetic sensors on the PCB. As the shifter is moved between P, R, N, D, S the magnets operate the sensors.
I found the output of one of the sensors would turn on when the shifter was put into reverse. The plan was to use the signal to operate a relay.
All went well until I shorted something on the shifter which resulted in he car being immobilised in the middle of the drive for a week while I sourced a new shifter.
Using my blown up shifter as a test bed I built a small circuit which used a optical sensor to operate the reverse lights relay.
The sensor works by sending an infrared beam out which is picked up by a detector when it passes a reflective surface. To make the reflective surface I glued some foil to the shifter mechanism.
Sensor in place on shifter
To wire the circuit into the car I decided I wanted to use the correct colour coded wire for power and control signal to the reverse lights relay. I dug out the remains of the TT wiring loom that I got when I began the conversion.
While looking for the wire colours I needed, a “helper” came over for a look
After deciding he didn’t know anything about VW electrics and not liking the taste of loom tape and PVC wire he wondered off.
Mounted the circuit in a small box, and used a 9 pin D type connector so it can be removed if there are any problems with it later on.
Foil reflector on shifter in car
Optical sensor mounted and wiring secured to existing wiring
Box mounted on relay plate
Working reverse lightsfor first time in nearly 3 years
Also got the head lining sorted, I found a supplier on ebay that did the matching fabric, only downside is it is foam backed so not easy to stick to the backing board. A pleat had to be sewn into the fabric so it could be held up against the backing board.
Colour match is close enough it’s too noticeable.
Its better than the old water stained fabric that was peeling off the backing board.
Just read all 14 pages of this, awesome build. I have a new car on order at the moment I've been planning for a couple years and love the idea of keeping it for as long as you have and making it my own over time. Lovely to see somebody happy to improve what they have instead of chopping and changing all the time.
Wow, amazing thread and amazing car! As a previous poster said, what a credit to you.
I too have a VF DBP MK4 R32 running about 380BHP, but you've instantly made me go investigate C38 prices haha. Like you, I like to hang onto my cars for a while, and mine is my daily drive with just under 100k on the clock. This thread may cost me a lot of money in the near future
Any further news since september?
I too have a VF DBP MK4 R32 running about 380BHP, but you've instantly made me go investigate C38 prices haha. Like you, I like to hang onto my cars for a while, and mine is my daily drive with just under 100k on the clock. This thread may cost me a lot of money in the near future
Any further news since september?
Richlee180 said:
Awesome car. I'm particularly impressed with your tenacity and attention to detail. I hope the car is still running well - any updates ?
I replaced both my A pillar trims and they came with subtly different finishes. I'm the only one who notices, but it really annoys me.
ThanksI replaced both my A pillar trims and they came with subtly different finishes. I'm the only one who notices, but it really annoys me.
Yep it still running well, had a new supercharger belt a few weeks ago as the old one was slipping so it was only making 6-8psi of boost instead of the 14-15psi it should.
Only other update is I had the steering wheel recovered in nappa leather by Royal Steering wheels. The original finish was starting to flake off and i had already had it recolonised once so decided to go for a full re trim.
Before:
After:
Looks and feels so much better.
I too have DSG Converted a MK4
Mine is a VW Bora - originally a 2.8 V6 4-motion, now a 3.2 DSG 4-Motion (BHE Engine, GYU Box)
I bought a partially stripped MK1 3.2 DSG TT for its engine gearbox and looms for £1000, sold the remaining parts of the car for £400
How come you didn't use the TT gearbox and engine bay loom, its all plug and play... and you would have had the reverse light pin/wire
Going from a manual I had to add in the brake vacuum pump (and fuse/relay), reverse light relay and park/neutral interlock relay, used all the OEM writing de-pinned from the TT loom, TT ECU (immobiliser programmed to my clocks)
Out of interest, do you have the part number for the shifter mechanism ?
I currently have the TT shifter mech and top cover fitted, I have the top cover and LED PCB from an American "City Jetta DSG" but the plug on the LED PCB is different to the one on the TT LED PCB - I'm pretty sure the MK4 DSG uses the same shifter mech with a rare LED PCB, just wanted some confirmation
Just retrofitted electric memory seats and mirrors too - with the fold function !
Current project is another Bora, BHE 3.2 VR6 Turdo'd up front mounted longitudinally, driving an 0B5 7-Speed S-tronic box mounted over the rear axle via a torque tube - reverse engineered the 0B5 mechatronics and made my own Arduino based controller - pics/build thread to follow !
Love the project and attention to detail, keep it up
Mine is a VW Bora - originally a 2.8 V6 4-motion, now a 3.2 DSG 4-Motion (BHE Engine, GYU Box)
I bought a partially stripped MK1 3.2 DSG TT for its engine gearbox and looms for £1000, sold the remaining parts of the car for £400
How come you didn't use the TT gearbox and engine bay loom, its all plug and play... and you would have had the reverse light pin/wire
Going from a manual I had to add in the brake vacuum pump (and fuse/relay), reverse light relay and park/neutral interlock relay, used all the OEM writing de-pinned from the TT loom, TT ECU (immobiliser programmed to my clocks)
Out of interest, do you have the part number for the shifter mechanism ?
I currently have the TT shifter mech and top cover fitted, I have the top cover and LED PCB from an American "City Jetta DSG" but the plug on the LED PCB is different to the one on the TT LED PCB - I'm pretty sure the MK4 DSG uses the same shifter mech with a rare LED PCB, just wanted some confirmation
Just retrofitted electric memory seats and mirrors too - with the fold function !
Current project is another Bora, BHE 3.2 VR6 Turdo'd up front mounted longitudinally, driving an 0B5 7-Speed S-tronic box mounted over the rear axle via a torque tube - reverse engineered the 0B5 mechatronics and made my own Arduino based controller - pics/build thread to follow !
Love the project and attention to detail, keep it up
Haven’t done much to the car since the last update, just been driving and enjoying it.
A few weeks ago I decided the front and rear subframes and suspension could do with some attention as over the last couple of years it’s all starting to look very rusty.
Now I’m in lock down I have plenty of time on my hands to make a start.
As the car will be laid up for a while, I wanted to keep it ventilated as over the winter there was a water leak through a panel which the engine and gearbox wiring loom passes through. The leak is fixed but there is still some dampness in the carpet.
To get some air movement I used the pollen filter as a template
Made a panel with a fan which fits in the pollen filter housing and blows air through the heater ducts.
Fitted in place of pollen filter
The fan runs from the battery which is kept topped up by a maintainer/charger.
At the last MOT at the beginning of the month, the car failed due to headlight aim, this was tracked down to the front levelling sensor.
VCDS reading from sensor showing maximum
The sensor is mounted in the wheel arch and attached to the lower wishbone.
When I removed the sensor, I discovered the connector body was broken, fortunately the rubber seal was ok so there were no problems with water getting into the pins.
I plugged the new sensor in and checked the with VCDS which was showing a more sensible value.
For the moment I have put it all back together, but once I start dismantling everything to restore the subframe I’ll replace the connector body.
Got the car up on blocks so I can get trolley jacks underneath so I can put axle stands under the jacking points on the sills.
First job before starting on the subframe is the release the hub bolts so I can remove the driveshafts, the hub bolts are torqued to 250nm +90 degrees so tight and then some!
M16 hub bolt
Started with an extending wheel brace bar which I managed to snap.
Also tried a T bar and jack handle but ended up bending the bar so I treated myself to a DEWALT DCF899N in the hope the 950Nm would get the bolt to budge.
Unfortunately, it didn’t shift the bolt, so now waiting on a 24” breaker bar to turn up so I can have another go.
A few weeks ago I decided the front and rear subframes and suspension could do with some attention as over the last couple of years it’s all starting to look very rusty.
Now I’m in lock down I have plenty of time on my hands to make a start.
As the car will be laid up for a while, I wanted to keep it ventilated as over the winter there was a water leak through a panel which the engine and gearbox wiring loom passes through. The leak is fixed but there is still some dampness in the carpet.
To get some air movement I used the pollen filter as a template
Made a panel with a fan which fits in the pollen filter housing and blows air through the heater ducts.
Fitted in place of pollen filter
The fan runs from the battery which is kept topped up by a maintainer/charger.
At the last MOT at the beginning of the month, the car failed due to headlight aim, this was tracked down to the front levelling sensor.
VCDS reading from sensor showing maximum
The sensor is mounted in the wheel arch and attached to the lower wishbone.
When I removed the sensor, I discovered the connector body was broken, fortunately the rubber seal was ok so there were no problems with water getting into the pins.
I plugged the new sensor in and checked the with VCDS which was showing a more sensible value.
For the moment I have put it all back together, but once I start dismantling everything to restore the subframe I’ll replace the connector body.
Got the car up on blocks so I can get trolley jacks underneath so I can put axle stands under the jacking points on the sills.
First job before starting on the subframe is the release the hub bolts so I can remove the driveshafts, the hub bolts are torqued to 250nm +90 degrees so tight and then some!
M16 hub bolt
Started with an extending wheel brace bar which I managed to snap.
Also tried a T bar and jack handle but ended up bending the bar so I treated myself to a DEWALT DCF899N in the hope the 950Nm would get the bolt to budge.
Unfortunately, it didn’t shift the bolt
, so now waiting on a 24” breaker bar to turn up so I can have another go. Mikeeb said:
Hi
Are you still running the Touareg callipers? Are they a direct fit to the standard uprights or do they need brackets?
Cheers
Yep still running the Touareg calipers, they fit to the standard uprights using an adapter bracket to the original caliper fixings. I'll try and remember to put a picture up as i dismantle everything. Are you still running the Touareg callipers? Are they a direct fit to the standard uprights or do they need brackets?
Cheers
Blue32 said:
Yep still running the Touareg calipers, they fit to the standard uprights using an adapter bracket to the original caliper fixings. I'll try and remember to put a picture up as i dismantle everything.
Thanks that’s great. I guess you’re in Surrey I’m close to Leatherhead. Gassing Station | Readers' Cars | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff