Scaffolding poles + old VW bits + Rotary engine....

Scaffolding poles + old VW bits + Rotary engine....

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PhillipM

Original Poster:

6,518 posts

189 months

Tuesday 6th December 2016
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Now, since we can't see the rev counter because - a) It's behind the steering wheel paddles and b) The new mounting ring around the steering column fouls it - then we started the search for another, smaller one.
After several versions of sticker shock and not liking some of the cheaper tat available - which seems to be aimed at getting as many lights as possible in and the crap fonts that you can't read in the dark (Fast and Furious has a lot to answer for) - the next best thing came to mind.
Mount it in the middle of the dash and move the fusebox.

All well and good, unfortunately the ECU is behind the dashboard in the middle at the bottom, and at the top is the windscreen wiper mechanism, and the tachometer is almost 5 inches deep. Bugger.

So, out came the screwdrivers and the soldering iron, the original dial came to pieces and the internals have been shortened, moved or rearranged and re-soldered.
Next step is to machine a new case out of a bit of 5" aluminium pipe and some sheet in the scrap pile, et voila, one half height rev counter:





Should have just fitted a bigger bloody shift light and left it off...

chuntington101

5,733 posts

236 months

Tuesday 6th December 2016
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To be honest I'm a little disappoint. I was expecting a solution similar to what Apache helicopter pilots use (monocle over one eye) or a hub display off say a corvette (displayed onto its on screen so as not to be effected by mud etc on the main screen). wink

Could you not use a tablet and display what you wanted on it? I have seen that done. Would be easy to turn the briteness up and down then as well and you could practically mount it where you wanted!

PhillipM

Original Poster:

6,518 posts

189 months

Tuesday 6th December 2016
quotequote all
I've thought about it* - but even if you boot it straight into the display rather than to a homepage the startup times are a bit lacking, and it still needs a waterproof housing making - may add a small one behind the wheel as well as the dials later on though, as I wouldn't mind GPS overlay and we can use it as a speedo when on the roads in France then.


  • Actually it's been on a slow burner for a while using a cheap tablet with an I/O daughterboard so it can run all the switches/relay functions with on screen buttons as well as the dash display, but the programming is slowing me down as it's not my forte and I've been too busy with other stuff to give it much time
Edited by PhillipM on Tuesday 6th December 12:09

chuntington101

5,733 posts

236 months

Tuesday 6th December 2016
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How about you replace the driver with some electric motors and do it all via VR headset? Think of the weight saving! wink

PhillipM

Original Poster:

6,518 posts

189 months

Tuesday 6th December 2016
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I could put a big aerial on the top and power it with Li-Po's!

PhillipM

Original Poster:

6,518 posts

189 months

Thursday 8th December 2016
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Since someone pointed out I was making it out of scrap tube and 6mm plate cut from the old skidpans when it must be nice to have that lathe and it's tools in the back of the workshop...;)...thought 'screw it' and decided to machine the thing out of a solid hunk 'o' billet, as then the main body can be smaller diameter instead of sized to fit the 5" tube on the scrap pile:



The boring bar is going to get some overtime work....as is the boring git turning the handles. biggrin




Edited by PhillipM on Thursday 8th December 01:19

PhillipM

Original Poster:

6,518 posts

189 months

Wednesday 14th December 2016
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chuntington101 said:
Could you not use a tablet and display what you wanted on it? I have seen that done. Would be easy to turn the briteness up and down then as well and you could practically mount it where you wanted!
Quoting this for posterity because it's your fault, and I'm sending you the bill when it's finished.

leglessAlex

5,446 posts

141 months

Wednesday 14th December 2016
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PhillipM said:
chuntington101 said:
Could you not use a tablet and display what you wanted on it? I have seen that done. Would be easy to turn the briteness up and down then as well and you could practically mount it where you wanted!
Quoting this for posterity because it's your fault, and I'm sending you the bill when it's finished.
Phillip, tell me, are you part Magpie? biggrin

PhillipM

Original Poster:

6,518 posts

189 months

Wednesday 14th December 2016
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Part magpie, part Gollum.

I've made the prototype fiddle brake frames but I've sent them off to be laser cut as a few guys bringing cars in over winter for work wanted to swap to them too - should have the bits back tommorow so I'll get one tacked up and in at the weekend, see how she looks.
We can finally finish off the last bits of plumbing then and drop everything off the frame to start sanding for paint....any volunteers?

It's a lovely job. You'll all really enjoy it. I might even put the kettle on. It's definitely not days of tedious, soul-destroying, arm aching, tedium that ends up in you looking like it's snowed from all the dust.

Edited by PhillipM on Wednesday 14th December 18:38

leglessAlex

5,446 posts

141 months

Wednesday 14th December 2016
quotequote all
hehe

Are all the electrics totally waterproof on this? I imagine yes, there isn't a single part of it that doesn't get wet is there really? Is it not a massive pain in the ass to do this?

PhillipM

Original Poster:

6,518 posts

189 months

Wednesday 14th December 2016
quotequote all
Yes, even the 'waterproof' gauges got stripped apart and sealed back together with polyurethane just in case, and any spade/ring connectors on the rear of them, the relays and all the dash controls were sealed with a liquid PVC compound.

All the connectors are superseal or weatherproof sealed versions with gaskets, every crimped joint/pin/plug has heatshrink over it and it's bonded down with adhesive under it - in most cases with a deliberate pocket/channel that holds liquid PCV compound so if the outer heatshrink gets breached then the liquid seeps out, skins over and reseals the joint.

I do need to make a cover for the relay box to seal the top of that with an o-ring, but I'm waiting on some PET-G plastic arriving and I'll extrude a whole new box and cover since it'll be moved to suit the new dash.

leglessAlex

5,446 posts

141 months

Wednesday 14th December 2016
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Yup, that sounds like a pain in the ass alright, thanks for the thorough answer thumbup


PhillipM

Original Poster:

6,518 posts

189 months

Tuesday 20th December 2016
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Magpie time!

Prototype fiddle/steering brake frame gone together to check clearances/operation + let us get the mounts welded in the chassis whilst we wait on some metal back from the laser cutters. Might get used as a jig for the first one too depending how fast the laser cut ones come back.


PhillipM

Original Poster:

6,518 posts

189 months

Sunday 8th January 2017
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Fiddle brake frame has been knocked up in some scrap steel using the plastic one as a template - as the laser cutters are packed from overspill over christmas - had to shift the levers a bit anyway as the new gearlever got a bit close, aside from that Ed's finished off those pesky hydraulics this weekend, brakes, steering, dampers, etc.
He's forbidden me from putting them on here as the damper interconnects are top secret and the hoses are neat and far too sexy (actually, I think he must just have a rubber fetish).
So here's the pre-watershed pixellated version - cor, look at them blue pixels!





Made some new waterproof covers for the brake light switches and some other sundries that weren't well enough sealed for my liking, just need to alter the dashboard wiring for the new screen and then that's pretty much it, bolt more bits on and fill with fluids - getting closer...cue lots of swearing from yours truly to follow whilst trying to refill and bleed the interlinked dampers mind...

Edited by PhillipM on Sunday 8th January 22:17

PhillipM

Original Poster:

6,518 posts

189 months

Tuesday 21st February 2017
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It's charcoal and chewing gum time! hehe



It doesn't seem to like the welder, any ideas?

IroningMan

10,154 posts

246 months

Wednesday 22nd February 2017
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Araldite.

How come you've stuck with the flailing arm front suspension? It used to cause me enough trouble in 1/10 scale, never mind 1/1.

PhillipM

Original Poster:

6,518 posts

189 months

Wednesday 22nd February 2017
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The friction is an issue, but the geometery isn't actually all terrible, don't get me wrong, you could make better but the shift as the arms swing back helps reduce shock loadings and wheel/damper speeds a lot.

I haven't ruled out switching to wishbones at some point but it's a 'cut the car off at the windscreen' job to make them worthwhile.

Araldite didn't weld very well either.

IroningMan

10,154 posts

246 months

Wednesday 22nd February 2017
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If you want to use your welder then you'll need some of those biscuit tins they used to make Rovers out of. If, on the other hand, you want to make something with that sticky-backed plastic then you'll need a boxed set of old Blue Peter videos.

PhillipM

Original Poster:

6,518 posts

189 months

Wednesday 22nd February 2017
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I wonder if someone made one earlier...it'd save me a job.

PhillipM

Original Poster:

6,518 posts

189 months

Thursday 2nd March 2017
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We're now twice as horny as previously.



Oh, and we fitted two horns.