Body off restoration

Body off restoration

Author
Discussion

the tuscanier

87 posts

130 months

Tuesday 19th August 2014
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clapclapclap

Fair play, and a top job on the plastic sheeting! would be worried if there was not a chassis in there, looks a bit Tarantino...

Keep the pic's coming thumbup

Rich912

Original Poster:

201 posts

215 months

Sunday 5th October 2014
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Hi,

From inside I removed the seats, centre console/armrest and only as much carpet as necessary. On the outside I removed both bonnets and the radiator and hoses. At the back I had to remove the fuel tank . I left the boot and doors and roof on.

Most of the bolts are obvious from looking underneath the car apart from the ones behind the fuel tank and the ones located in the transmission tunnel. For the bolts in the transmission tunnel you have to cut away some of the fibreglass, I used a dremel and a small cutting disk, there is an excellent pic on another thread that shows where they are and by using that I cut in exactly the right place. I'll have a look for it and put a link up.

After that it's a case of working your way around the car disconnecting everything like battery cables, brake lines, clutch line, the vacume pipe on the back of the brake master cylinder, steering linkage, handbrake cable, accelerator cable and earth cables. You also need to remove the pedal box and because of the way the the bolts are secured, if the nuts are tight they just end up spinning. I had to angle grind 4 out of the 6 off.

I think the only thing I removed that I didn't need to was the "T" shaped piece of carpet behind the seats, I was convinced there were a couple of bolts hiding underneath it but they were the ones behind the fuel tank.

I then started to work the body loose. I chocked the wheels and then stuck blocks of wood on top of the wheels underneath the arches and this slowly lifted the body putting larger blocks between the wheels and arches. Once I had it high enough to make sure everything was disconnected (I had missed an earthing cable at the front) and for the engine bay to clear the exhaust manifolds, this is the tightest bit. I then got 8 of my mates to lift the body off. It was still pretty heavy with 8 of us.

When I removed the fuel tank I removed the fuel gauge sender to syphon the tank and then ended up cutting the fuel hoses off, this wasn't a problem for me as part of the restoration was to replace any rubber fuel hoses.

Hope this helps a bit and your back on the road soon.


Rich912

Original Poster:

201 posts

215 months

Sunday 5th October 2014
quotequote all
This is not a pic of my car but it shows where to cut the fibreglass to access the bolts on the transmission tunnel.



This shows the position on the chassis.



And finally this shows the holes on the outriggers that it's roughly inline with to help you workout where to cut.


ED02TVR

34 posts

117 months

Monday 6th October 2014
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Thanks you very much that is a huge help!

I can't decide if I should repair the Body Work before I lift it. I don't want to tempt fate and I haven't really had a lot of luck lately...

I probably should get it all in position and it would then allow me to make sure it is as strong as possible in the hard to reach places once its off.

Anyway thanks again. Big help.


Rich912

Original Poster:

201 posts

215 months

Saturday 11th October 2014
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Well it's been a while since my last update. Everything has now had a couple of coats of epoxy mastic and the chassis and suspension have just had the first coat of white top coat. I should be getting a new set of bushes next week so it shouldn't be too long before it starts to go back together.






Rich912

Original Poster:

201 posts

215 months

Wednesday 29th October 2014
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Been doing a bit of painting this week, just got a few more bits to go and then it will start to go back together.







Edited by Rich912 on Wednesday 29th October 21:29

Rich912

Original Poster:

201 posts

215 months

Thursday 30th October 2014
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A couple more of the parts ready to go back on.




DJR 7

1,413 posts

256 months

Thursday 30th October 2014
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Reminds me of the old air fix model kits! Snap a piece of and glue it together!
Good thread this, it's almost a shame to cover it up with a body!
Looking forward to the next update.

D

Walford

2,259 posts

165 months

Thursday 30th October 2014
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Be careful were you buy your bolts, a bought load of crap, from a TVR ex parts supplier red rust in weeks of summer use

Rich912

Original Poster:

201 posts

215 months

Thursday 30th October 2014
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Walford, did you manage to find a descent source of bolts.

Walford

2,259 posts

165 months

Friday 31st October 2014
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Rich912 said:
Walford, did you manage to find a descent source of bolts.
try Graham Varley

Rich912

Original Poster:

201 posts

215 months

Sunday 4th January 2015
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Bit of an update, built the drive shafts up.





Then I started to fit the rear suspension and diff.




georgefreeman

214 posts

112 months

Sunday 4th January 2015
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Wow that's some commitment! Top work, would love to have the skills and confidence to do this.

natdavis667

7 posts

202 months

Sunday 4th January 2015
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Absolutely incredible thread!, I'm 12 months away from buying my first TVR (It will be a Tuscan), and am keen to research over the next year how labour intensive ownership is going to be. I want to be as involved as I can, and see this thread as the Gold Standard!... Im probably not quite there yet but will definitely use this thread for tips and advice in the future.

Rich912

Original Poster:

201 posts

215 months

Monday 2nd February 2015
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A quick update, it's all going back together ok, all the new bolts have been fitted after putting it together with the old bolts to save any threads getting damaged. Just got the right hand brake calipers to paint and fit, then check the engine valve clearances as part of the service before it goes back in. Also need fit a couple of wire thread inserts for the cam cover bolts.




Rich912

Original Poster:

201 posts

215 months

Monday 2nd February 2015
quotequote all
A quick update, it's all going back together ok, all the new bolts have been fitted after putting it together with the old bolts to save any threads getting damaged. Just got the right hand brake calipers to paint and fit, then check the engine valve clearances as part of the service before it goes back in. Also need fit a couple of wire thread inserts for the cam cover bolts.




Fastpedeller

3,848 posts

145 months

Monday 2nd February 2015
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Rich912 said:
Hi, I started the process of removing the body a while ago and due to work commitments it's taken a while. Tonight it was finally removed so I thought I'd start a thread to show the progress.

It's a 2001 tuscan that was being kept outside by the previous owner and was also kept outside and used in all weather by myself. I now have a garage and second car hence the restoration begins.


Please give re-assurance that you don't intend to use that tin of hammerite nono - worst paint known to man!

Looks like a real good job being done.

Walford

2,259 posts

165 months

Monday 2nd February 2015
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After i rebuilt my car the only bolts that needed re tightening were these, which i think was due to paint on the mating faces
if i did another TVR build i would plate these bracket rather that paint them

.

Rich912

Original Poster:

201 posts

215 months

Monday 2nd February 2015
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The hammerite was used on the pedal box only. Walford that's useful info, at what sort of mileage did you re-check all your bolts.

Sagi Badger

589 posts

192 months

Monday 2nd February 2015
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Nice work. Whilst looking at your photos I thought I should mention not painting the mating/clamping faces on wish bones and up rights, calliper mounting lugs, front top camber, diff brackets etc. The paint film will cause you problems so careful work with the Dremel is advised, as the comment by Walford notes.

I powder coated all my wish bones and a few other bits, I didn't go body off as I had enough to do elsewhere. Just a word of caution, if you have used Power Flex bushes the rear lower forward and front upper rear need, in my opinion, a washer to back them up which is not in the kit. if you look at the areas you will see what I mean. If you are buying new, of course you are, lower front ball joints be careful that they don't bottom out before they bite fully as there are some good looking ones with either an undersized taper or short thread, you will need a hardened washer under the TVR spacer if you have this problem.

Looks really cool, problem is when you drive it you will want to clean it!!

J