Is the heater stepper motor meant to do this?

[Technoholic]

Further to my previous thread on fitting the stepper motor, I think I’ve figured out the wiring for the motor I have obtained. Last piece of the puzzle is to confirm that the stepper motor is meant to “bottom out” on ignition to find its reference point? I know it runs for 10 seconds on ignition but wanted to check the bottoming out is correct as a way to find its starting point.

If anyone can confirm that, I can put my car back together!

[Penelope Stopit]

https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=16...

Shows this post

sprange67 said:

When I did my motor setting up I had similar issues, in the end to get it to work correctly, I removed the arm, set the heater control to minimum and them switched the ignition on. The motor then cycles through full open to shut cycle and the stops. At this point connect the arm with the flap shut and fingers crossed it should work, we it did for me! Test before screwing back together :-)

and

MPETT said:

I think I've worked out a solution. Using one of the 12v wires, I used a micro switch to cut off power to the motor when in the fully cold position. This stops the motor over stressing the gearbox and flap/arm.

It's the light green wire that powers the hot to cold direction of the motor.

http://youtu.be/Upq-tmR0avU
http://youtu.be/UlT6sGvH55g

Ok you've read it earlier but?????

Does the above information not help you set it all up and improve the operation by wiring in a microswitch

[Technoholic]

there shouldn't be a need to put a microswitch in, yes it's a crude design but having spoken to a couple of TVR specialists, they confirmed that when it bottoms out, the motor doesn't or shouldn't damage itself and uses that as it's reference point, so I'm happy enough with that.

[Penelope Stopit]

Ok then, whatever takes your fancy

Doesn't the above sprange67 post help?

[Technoholic]

yes I got it sorted in the end.

My next problem is that I can't get the silicone pipe back on under the dash, so going to have to take the dash top off.

Firstly, I can't even find the bolts that hold it on with my hands
Secondly, the flaps above the silicone pipes in the dash top itself (non return flaps I guess) are clanking around when the air is on. Is there an easy fix for this if I ever get the dash off?!

[desperately sad]

I dont know if you have sorted this out - i.e. finding the nuts for the dash ?
I had this problem. The left side/ passenger side is not too difficult. However the drivers side is nearly impossible. You will probably need a 6 year old child to get the hidden nut off for you as the shelf is completely in the way. your hand has to go up and around the shelf.
If you can get it off there is an easy mod : -
Pull the carpet out of the shelf and then drill a 25mm hole in the bottom of the shelf directly in line with the nut above. You can then put a socket directly up on a long extension to release the nut in the future. After having put the nut back on and secured the facia you just put the piece of carpet back in the shelf.
I cannot understand how or why TVR built the car in this way. The most difficult thing I have ever found on any of my TVRs.

[S6PNJ]

Resurrecting an old post to put some info from another TVR forum (via Facebook) that might be of use.

[nawarne]

^^ Good job, Phil !

I hoped you might post this information on here.
I can do a copy and paste, and then print to add to my copy of Mr. Varley's manual !
Cheers. Nick