Roof seal retaining channel properly fitting

Roof seal retaining channel properly fitting

Author
Discussion

Technoholic

Original Poster:

490 posts

66 months

Tuesday 29th October 2019
quotequote all
Hi

Next on my list is to properly sort out the seals on the roof. I have bought the new seals for tvr parts which have the improved stiffer T Section. The problem is that I can’t fit them into the roof channels because the screws that attach it to the roof are sitting proud, whereas the old softer seal would slide over the raised screws. I want to fix it properly and I can see that the screws are not countersunk properly, but the metal is too thin to allow these screws to be sunk in correctly. All my removing and refitting has also made the holes in the fibreglass too big.

So what are my options? I can drill new holes in the channel and try to countersink them properly and use different screws but I wouldn’t know which screws to use.

Alternatively I could replace the channels as they aren’t too expensive, but does anyone know if these are countersunk any differently? And if they come with screws?

Finally, the existing channels don’t have a spacer behind them but have various amounts of washers under different screws. I don’t think it needs the spacer and not sure it even needs the washers. Perhaps they were fitted to try and improve the seal previously. Can anyone confirm?

Any advice would be great as the car lives outside and now I’ve messed with it, I don’t think it’s all sealed as good as it was before (even though that wasnt great) but I need to fix it.

Thanks

phillpot

17,115 posts

183 months

Tuesday 29th October 2019
quotequote all

With a bit of lube (washing up liquid) would the seal slide over some low profile head screws something like these?

failing that I'd go for countersunk screws and drill the holes in the channel as big as you dare without the screw pulling through. If you want to get clever you could try forming some countersinks in the channel by improvising a die and punch arrangement scratchchin

Technoholic

Original Poster:

490 posts

66 months

Tuesday 29th October 2019
quotequote all
All good ideas, the first one I tried using exactly those type of self tappers, and washing up liquid too, but the rubber is so rigid it wasnt enough. Once they’re finally in I’ll be grateful for the stiffness but it’s a pain right now!

I might try drilling some different holes in the existing channels. Actually using some sort of punch is not a bad idea, I’ll have to see if I can figure out a way to do that but I’d rather explore all my options before drilling more holes

phillpot

17,115 posts

183 months

Wednesday 30th October 2019
quotequote all
If you can view this on a decent sized screen (not a phone) i'd say the holes are countersunk on these ones?


Technoholic

Original Poster:

490 posts

66 months

Wednesday 30th October 2019
quotequote all
Yes looks like it. Are they the right sized channels? Where from?

Adrian@

4,308 posts

282 months

Wednesday 30th October 2019
quotequote all
This is the OE item...black anodised and countersunk. Re drilling is an option, I have done it a few times. when upgrading the seals. A@




Technoholic

Original Poster:

490 posts

66 months

Wednesday 30th October 2019
quotequote all
Oh that’s great information thanks! Any chance you could measure the thickness of the metal?

Did you redrill the existing holes or new ones? And what screws did you use to get them flush?

Thanks for your help. Sorry for all the questions!

Adrian@

4,308 posts

282 months

Wednesday 30th October 2019
quotequote all
1.5mm, and 4mm S/S countersunk (they happen to 1" long but I cut them down to suit as I use them for other jobs that require 1") TBH I also have a pretty little modified counter sink tool that drops into that slot so that the edges are not caught (if I can find it). I would try rotating the strip end to end and see if the holes actually align (which I doubt they will and re drill if that is the case). A@

Technoholic

Original Poster:

490 posts

66 months

Wednesday 30th October 2019
quotequote all
Yes that's the problem I was having, finding a countersink tool that fits in the slot. Ill have to keep looking fo one, any pointers on how you modified yours would be great.

Adrian@

4,308 posts

282 months

Wednesday 30th October 2019
quotequote all
It is a 3 flute countersink bit parted off to 6mm (I will look for it, TBH it is a long time since I have seen/used it), give me a couple of hours...A@

Technoholic

Original Poster:

490 posts

66 months

Wednesday 30th October 2019
quotequote all
that's ok, I've just bought a cheap set of countersink bits, 6mm to 20mm, so I'll give that a go as the 6mm should fit, just need to find some screws with heads smaller than 6mm to fit through the slot and that mate up with the countersink nicely!

Technoholic

Original Poster:

490 posts

66 months

Wednesday 30th October 2019
quotequote all
One more question regarding spacing. Looking at how I refitted the channel temporarily yesterday, I removed the washers at one end and now that end doesn't meet the window glass. So I assume the spacers are needed at that end unless I can adjust the glass well enough. Adding a flat spacer the whole length therefore wouldn't work as it wouldn't provide the "curve" at one end to follow the glass. Can you think of a better solution that some washers that might work better?

Thanks

phillpot

17,115 posts

183 months

Wednesday 30th October 2019
quotequote all
Technoholic said:
Yes looks like it. Are they the right sized channels? Where from?
Ebay 273958479402...... click on the word "countersunk" wink


Theres's also a guy just yesterday, by coincidence, advertising the black ones on a few of the FaceBook TVR groups.

phillpot

17,115 posts

183 months

Wednesday 30th October 2019
quotequote all
Adrian@ said:
. Re drilling is an option, I have done it a few times. when upgrading the seals. A@
What are these "upgraded seals" you speak of Adrian, tell us more?

Technoholic

Original Poster:

490 posts

66 months

Wednesday 30th October 2019
quotequote all
I have upgraded seals to fit, if that's what you're talking about. They are completely stiff on the T section that goes in the channel, so they don't pop out when you so much as look at them

phillpot

17,115 posts

183 months

Wednesday 30th October 2019
quotequote all
Technoholic said:
I have upgraded seals to fit, if that's what you're talking about. They are completely stiff on the T section that goes in the channel, so they don't pop out when you so much as look at them
thumbup

Hadn't realised they were that stiff !

Technoholic

Original Poster:

490 posts

66 months

Wednesday 30th October 2019
quotequote all
Yes compared to my old ones which I only fitted a short while ago, where you can compress the T section like sponge, on the new one you can't budge it, it's completely different material to the rest of the seal

Adrian@

4,308 posts

282 months

Wednesday 30th October 2019
quotequote all
Sorry Mike, upgrading too...rather than anything different. From Mk1 adhered on to the hood and upgrading to the channel version on Griffs and Chims (changing the early Wedge seal to the later seal version too). Whilst production was on going, the channels and spacer strips were required for those cars and many times I needed to have take shorter versions and drill/countersink them, join them together to complete a job. A@

carl350i

141 posts

250 months

Sunday 7th June 2020
quotequote all
Hi,

I’ve been looking to replace the seals on my griffith, but they are the early stuck on ones and I would like fit the screwed on channels and seals.

Tvr parts are out of stock, I’ve seen pics of black channels and unpainted aluminium.

Any ideas where to get them please.

Cheers.