For the love of Tuscan (project build)
Discussion
PG I'm sure praise from you is better than the initial responses from a member who's no longer posting!
Modrich something occured to me when putting a battery in the boot, and thought of this thread. Years and years ago, so long I can't find it, there were stories of Tuscan boots 'stretching' on the flanks causing cracking when heavy loads were carried.
Whether the cure on later cars was using the secondary skin you've removed as a strengthener or more layers of fibreglass on the sides, which makes more sense I don't recall but thought it worth mentioning before yours goes off to the body shop.
Modrich something occured to me when putting a battery in the boot, and thought of this thread. Years and years ago, so long I can't find it, there were stories of Tuscan boots 'stretching' on the flanks causing cracking when heavy loads were carried.
Whether the cure on later cars was using the secondary skin you've removed as a strengthener or more layers of fibreglass on the sides, which makes more sense I don't recall but thought it worth mentioning before yours goes off to the body shop.
PG thanks for your positivity and support, everyone restoring a car at home needs this in spades.
s6boy, I have been wondering about relocating the battery to the boot do you have a thread/details on it? I have been looking at possible LiFePO4 batteries that are about 1/2 the size/weight but I have so much going on that this is a back burner job.
I've not heard of this 'stretchy boot' phenomenon and haven't seen any signs of it on mine, maybe only manifests itself when carrying dead bodies around in the boot… But as you say, the boot sides would be the place to add strength if it was needed and tied back into the internal cage up in the boot corners. One thing I did note was how flimsy/bendy the rear deck/drain channel is at the base of the rear screen. I have added an additional layer of fibreglass to the underside (accessed from within the boot when the carpet above the fuel tank is removed) which has helped, but I think the best way would be to add a kind of 'rear strut brace' between the previously mentioned inner cage points to provide support for the rear deck, so when climbing in through the rear screen to open the doors when your battery goes dead you don't crack the rear deck...
s6boy, I have been wondering about relocating the battery to the boot do you have a thread/details on it? I have been looking at possible LiFePO4 batteries that are about 1/2 the size/weight but I have so much going on that this is a back burner job.
I've not heard of this 'stretchy boot' phenomenon and haven't seen any signs of it on mine, maybe only manifests itself when carrying dead bodies around in the boot… But as you say, the boot sides would be the place to add strength if it was needed and tied back into the internal cage up in the boot corners. One thing I did note was how flimsy/bendy the rear deck/drain channel is at the base of the rear screen. I have added an additional layer of fibreglass to the underside (accessed from within the boot when the carpet above the fuel tank is removed) which has helped, but I think the best way would be to add a kind of 'rear strut brace' between the previously mentioned inner cage points to provide support for the rear deck, so when climbing in through the rear screen to open the doors when your battery goes dead you don't crack the rear deck...
So I've been scratching my head as to which of the dozens of tasks I've completed to write-up next, so thought I'd focus on the interior switches and controls...
Centre console switches refurbishment and door/boot release mod
I noted that the window rotary switches were a little hit & miss for raising/lowering the windows and the extra door release 'push' function built into these rotary switches didn't work on the drivers side either also the green LEDs didn't work. So, I set about investigating...
I removed the driver and passenger side panels...
To reveal corroded LED pins...
So I started to take everything apart
First up, fixing the combined window rotary/door release push button switches. By closing the 4x 'V' shaped metal tabs on the switch chassis, the rotary top section of the switch can be removed revealing the potentiometer 'wheel' and copper leaf spring contacts that can be cleaned with switch contact cleaner. You can also try bending the copper leaf spring contacts so they contact the potentiometer wheel with more force creating a more positive response when operating the windows.
The next layer is the push button part of the switch. Pulling the green plastic cover up on one side reveals the plastic & metal discs. You can see the black carbon build-up in the centre of the metal disc and also on the centre contact on the switch printed circuit that need cleaning with contact cleaner. That's the switch sorted.
Next is replacing the green window LED. The LED needs to be 12v compatible, I couldn't find any low output (not too bright) 12v LEDs, most are 3-6v these days so had to use ones pre-wired and pre-soldered with a resister inline...
LED wires cut back and mounted to existing stand-off LED holder
Switch and LED mounted back on the panel
Hot glue gun used to hold the LED in place and cover the bare LED wires onto the circuit board.
Switches sorted and knobs/panels all cleaned, I repainted any faded black symbols on the knobs. Note the additional green/blue LED for the factory Air Conditioning.
Now I have additional functioning door release buttons, that I don't really need, as well as the buttons either side of the stereo, it got me thinking that I could turn the passenger side into a door lock/unlock (currently provided by the alarm LED button next to the steering column) and the driver’s side into a boot release.
For the door lock/unlock you need to re-route the blue wires that connect to the alarm LED (found under the dash top panel)
...to the centre console multiplug (car side, on the right in the picture, there are spare pin locations) then find the orange/white wire from the passenger side window rotary push button (that go into the other half of the same multiplug, console side) and re-position it into the corresponding pin.
For the boot release, when installing the new alarm I had to run a new black wire from the alarm module to the passenger door module and connect it to the black/red wire that comes from the boot lid badge release microswitch
Shown here removed from the multiplug
Then I connected the new black alarm wire and an additional black wire for the console boot release switch into the same pin
Then connected the additional console boot release black wire to another spare pin on the console multiplug (car side), then find the orange/white wire from the driver’s side window rotary push button (that goes into the other half of the same multiplug, console side) and re-position it into the corresponding pin.
The orange/white wires shown in the original positions, top left, top right.
So now I have boot release and door lock/unlock on the centre console.
The old red alarm LED from the factory door lock/unlock switch that I made redundant can now be repositioned using a new LED to the dashtop so it's more visible from outside rather than being hidden down by the steering column.
Next up, dash pod/switches refurb
Centre console switches refurbishment and door/boot release mod
I noted that the window rotary switches were a little hit & miss for raising/lowering the windows and the extra door release 'push' function built into these rotary switches didn't work on the drivers side either also the green LEDs didn't work. So, I set about investigating...
I removed the driver and passenger side panels...
To reveal corroded LED pins...
So I started to take everything apart
First up, fixing the combined window rotary/door release push button switches. By closing the 4x 'V' shaped metal tabs on the switch chassis, the rotary top section of the switch can be removed revealing the potentiometer 'wheel' and copper leaf spring contacts that can be cleaned with switch contact cleaner. You can also try bending the copper leaf spring contacts so they contact the potentiometer wheel with more force creating a more positive response when operating the windows.
The next layer is the push button part of the switch. Pulling the green plastic cover up on one side reveals the plastic & metal discs. You can see the black carbon build-up in the centre of the metal disc and also on the centre contact on the switch printed circuit that need cleaning with contact cleaner. That's the switch sorted.
Next is replacing the green window LED. The LED needs to be 12v compatible, I couldn't find any low output (not too bright) 12v LEDs, most are 3-6v these days so had to use ones pre-wired and pre-soldered with a resister inline...
LED wires cut back and mounted to existing stand-off LED holder
Switch and LED mounted back on the panel
Hot glue gun used to hold the LED in place and cover the bare LED wires onto the circuit board.
Switches sorted and knobs/panels all cleaned, I repainted any faded black symbols on the knobs. Note the additional green/blue LED for the factory Air Conditioning.
Now I have additional functioning door release buttons, that I don't really need, as well as the buttons either side of the stereo, it got me thinking that I could turn the passenger side into a door lock/unlock (currently provided by the alarm LED button next to the steering column) and the driver’s side into a boot release.
For the door lock/unlock you need to re-route the blue wires that connect to the alarm LED (found under the dash top panel)
...to the centre console multiplug (car side, on the right in the picture, there are spare pin locations) then find the orange/white wire from the passenger side window rotary push button (that go into the other half of the same multiplug, console side) and re-position it into the corresponding pin.
For the boot release, when installing the new alarm I had to run a new black wire from the alarm module to the passenger door module and connect it to the black/red wire that comes from the boot lid badge release microswitch
Shown here removed from the multiplug
Then I connected the new black alarm wire and an additional black wire for the console boot release switch into the same pin
Then connected the additional console boot release black wire to another spare pin on the console multiplug (car side), then find the orange/white wire from the driver’s side window rotary push button (that goes into the other half of the same multiplug, console side) and re-position it into the corresponding pin.
The orange/white wires shown in the original positions, top left, top right.
So now I have boot release and door lock/unlock on the centre console.
The old red alarm LED from the factory door lock/unlock switch that I made redundant can now be repositioned using a new LED to the dashtop so it's more visible from outside rather than being hidden down by the steering column.
Next up, dash pod/switches refurb
Edited by Modrich on Monday 1st April 19:01
Looking good.
I'm sure I read somewhere the push-to-open-door of the window rotary switches was something TVR removed on laster models as people were often nudging them with their knees, and popping doors open unexpectedly!
I'd often thought of repurposing it as a heated seat on/off or something.
I'm sure I read somewhere the push-to-open-door of the window rotary switches was something TVR removed on laster models as people were often nudging them with their knees, and popping doors open unexpectedly!
I'd often thought of repurposing it as a heated seat on/off or something.
Malcster said:
I'm sure I read somewhere the push-to-open-door of the window rotary switches was something TVR removed on laster models as people were often nudging them with their knees, and popping doors open unexpectedly!
That’s correct and this also involved changing the radio pod on early cars for one with the door opening buttons. The rotary switches for door opening were disabled on my 2000 Tuscan.Looks like the OP has put them to better use.
Malcster said:
I'm sure I read somewhere the push-to-open-door of the window rotary switches was something TVR removed on laster models as people were often nudging them with their knees, and popping doors open unexpectedly!
I'd often thought of repurposing it as a heated seat on/off or something.
Yeah, I did think initially if it was a good idea to have them as a door release, and why TVR had 2 ways to release the doors, so that answers that question. You could use the momentary switch for anything really, add a relay to toggle the heated seats on/off but most these days have 2 or 3 temperature settings not just on/off.I'd often thought of repurposing it as a heated seat on/off or something.
NCE 61 said:
That’s correct and this also involved changing the radio pod on early cars for one with the door opening buttons. The rotary switches for door opening were disabled on my 2000 Tuscan.
Even though later cars may have the function disabled the switch push function is probably still there so could be put to use.Snaaakeey said:
Wish the rotary knob push action would make the windows go all the way down or all the way up. That would need a reprogram I suspect.
The new alarm I fitted has total closure so closes the windows if left open so don't see why a window closure button couldn't be added using the method that the alarm uses, or even open, if the function can be reversed, something I might look into into at some point...Dropping in to say "hi" as a past Tuscan owner. And hi NCE! Sold my Tuscan back in 2006 but enjoying reminiscing the ownership experience reading this thread.
Makes me think back to the little but special touches to the Tuscan interior. The clink of the air con and the blue light coming on, and the novel window winder dials. I will keeping looking in on this thread. Good luck with the rebuild. Sounds like it will be better than new when done!
Makes me think back to the little but special touches to the Tuscan interior. The clink of the air con and the blue light coming on, and the novel window winder dials. I will keeping looking in on this thread. Good luck with the rebuild. Sounds like it will be better than new when done!
So I have a confession, the Tuscan has been at the bodyshop for quite a while now, they collected it on a flatbed...
They've been dropping onto it in between jobs but will be taking it up a gear over the next week or two to get it completed. To be honest I didn't want it back as while it's been away I've been building it a new home and should have that finished just in time for its return, pics to follow.
Here's some pics from the bodyshop. Since taking these it's been sanded back ready for primer next week...
More updates on this soon hopefully.
They've been dropping onto it in between jobs but will be taking it up a gear over the next week or two to get it completed. To be honest I didn't want it back as while it's been away I've been building it a new home and should have that finished just in time for its return, pics to follow.
Here's some pics from the bodyshop. Since taking these it's been sanded back ready for primer next week...
More updates on this soon hopefully.
Edited by Modrich on Monday 1st April 19:10
Garage is almost done...
Epoxy floor going down tomorrow and electrics to finish.
And the Tuscan is back! Haven't really touched it since it arrived as concentrating on the garage. Very happy with the colour although they appear to have rushed the flatten and polish as there's still some orange peel effect so the painter has offered to do it in my garage at some point.
Hopefully back on track with updates soon.
Epoxy floor going down tomorrow and electrics to finish.
And the Tuscan is back! Haven't really touched it since it arrived as concentrating on the garage. Very happy with the colour although they appear to have rushed the flatten and polish as there's still some orange peel effect so the painter has offered to do it in my garage at some point.
Hopefully back on track with updates soon.
Edited by Modrich on Monday 1st April 19:12
Modrich said:
Garage is almost done...
Epoxy floor going down tomorrow and electrics to finish.
And the Tuscan is back! Haven't really touched it since it arrived as concentrating on the garage. Very happy with the colour although they appear to have rushed the flatten and polish as there's still some orange peel effect so the painter has offered to do it in my garage at some point.
Hopefully back on track with updates soon.
AppreciatedEpoxy floor going down tomorrow and electrics to finish.
And the Tuscan is back! Haven't really touched it since it arrived as concentrating on the garage. Very happy with the colour although they appear to have rushed the flatten and polish as there's still some orange peel effect so the painter has offered to do it in my garage at some point.
Hopefully back on track with updates soon.
Give you 20 big ones for an occupied garage
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