Discussion
So the 99p ignition chap now has this for sale...
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/honda-civic-n-reg-1-6-in...
...tempting.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/honda-civic-n-reg-1-6-in...
...tempting.
Had fun on the way home tonight. The dual carridgeway from Wisbech to Tilney on the A47. I caught up and overtook a nice looking de-badged silver blue BMW 5 series (on an S plate) who was following a Freelander both doing about 60-65 I was at 70mph. About half a mile later the BMW races up behind me passes and cuts across. Okay you felt imasculated because you were overtaken by an old Rover. I get it. The driver then slows back down to about 60 again (probably due to the passenger side silhouette waving her arms about. I could have re-passed the car and played all evening but it was close to my exit and I turned off instead.
The joys of old Rovers eh?
The joys of old Rovers eh?
Liquid Knight said:
Had fun on the way home tonight. The dual carridgeway from Wisbech to Tilney on the A47. I caught up and overtook a nice looking de-badged silver blue BMW 5 series (on an S plate) who was following a Freelander both doing about 60-65 I was at 70mph. About half a mile later the BMW races up behind me passes and cuts across. Okay you felt imasculated because you were overtaken by an old Rover. I get it. The driver then slows back down to about 60 again (probably due to the passenger side silhouette waving her arms about. I could have re-passed the car and played all evening but it was close to my exit and I turned off instead.
The joys of old Rovers eh?
Nice one... they don't like it up 'em LK ... The joys of old Rovers eh?
Get yourself a humble 620ti Rover. You can play with so called 'superior' Bavarian Product most effectively. Not all of them of course but, surprisingly many much to the obvious chagrin of their drivers. Despite huge agedness, never tire of that ... Very Guilty M'Lud ......
.
After more than year of not being able to lock on to a radio station and skipping every single cd I have tried to play whenever I ran over a bump or lump in the road more than 2mm big; I finally lost my temper with the head unit.
Actually several other things annoyed me but the stereo was the fall guy.
I wanted to fit the unit from the E36 anyway as the tape deck is more in keeping with the period of the car and having a mutlichanger hidden away means I can use the side pockets of the drivers door for something other than holding cd's.
4x45 Watt output and better sound quality as well. Just need to decide what six cd's to install now.
Actually several other things annoyed me but the stereo was the fall guy.
I wanted to fit the unit from the E36 anyway as the tape deck is more in keeping with the period of the car and having a mutlichanger hidden away means I can use the side pockets of the drivers door for something other than holding cd's.
4x45 Watt output and better sound quality as well. Just need to decide what six cd's to install now.
Liquid Knight said:
R.I.P Rover I sent the lister a message because I get paid in the middle of the month and nobody bid on the car. They've scrapped it. Poor thing. Okay I don't like automatics and was going to either use the car for parts or blank canvas for my TWR SD3 ideas but scrapping the car because it failed to sell the first time?
Oh well that's 42 SD3's left in the UK I guess.
Ran over a kettle? I launched my first i-Phone off a clay trap and shot it.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/300639327366?ssPageName=...
99p Cam' belt.
Bloody expensive classic cars.
99p Cam' belt.
Bloody expensive classic cars.
Edited by Liquid Knight on Monday 26th December 00:16
Hi LK, had one of these as my first car...
Brilliant and dreadful at the same time. Engine was great.
Did find though the HT leads, dizzy cap and arm were best replaced as annual service items, ideally before winter as the HT leads did break down quickly.
Think it had welding for almost every MOT, but never cost more than a few of hundred quid a year to fix and service. Paid £1000 for it, it lasted me 5 years and in that time I racked up 85,000 miles. When it died I managed to find a scrappy that would take it without charging!
Brilliant and dreadful at the same time. Engine was great.
Did find though the HT leads, dizzy cap and arm were best replaced as annual service items, ideally before winter as the HT leads did break down quickly.
Think it had welding for almost every MOT, but never cost more than a few of hundred quid a year to fix and service. Paid £1000 for it, it lasted me 5 years and in that time I racked up 85,000 miles. When it died I managed to find a scrappy that would take it without charging!
You know those simple looking jobs that turn out to be a pain in the cheeks?
I decided to have a look at the sills today. The passenger side is perfect, not a patch and only a few dabs of surface rust that can be treated and painted later. The driver side however is a different story. From roughly half way between the b and c pillars a patch had been tack welded over rust and filled over. Old car old bodges eh?
I cut away the patches to find the rust had gone inwards and upwards. The sill wasn't sealed properly and the patches weren't painted either so damp could get in and had somewhere to go. The jacking point was wobbly because there was a chunk of filler from the patch to the mounting point and another patch welded under the carpet inside.
I cut away the sill to access the damage...
The stuctural support for the jacking point had rotted away from the outer sill patch and the inner sill was Swiss Cheese from the patches back. The inside din't look that bad until I had a poke about.
Using a bungee and my head rest I made sure the loom, boot and filler cap cables were safe...
...and as inner sill sections aren't available I started to make an end piece out of some metal everyone who has ever worked on their car should have in their shed.
I measured the size roughly and started to make a lip...
...straightening the lip with a pair of hammers...
...a few trial fits and a bit of editing with a grinder later and I had a pannel to weld in place...
...but chuff all to weld it to. I cut as much of the rust out as possible and made another lip. I welded this lip to the original inner sill so I had some clean(ish) metal to weld the new pannel to.
That's when I ran out of daylight so I'll get back to it in the morning. Just need to make a pannel to plate the floor properly, either cut the rest of the sill off and fit a new one or seem weld a new rear section to the existing one and reweld the jacking point in place.
The biggest decision is do I do a good enough job for M.O.T or do a good enough job for a classic car buff to appreciate? The Rover isn't a proper classic yet and the amount of time I spend will be determined by the weather and other factors out of my control.
I decided to have a look at the sills today. The passenger side is perfect, not a patch and only a few dabs of surface rust that can be treated and painted later. The driver side however is a different story. From roughly half way between the b and c pillars a patch had been tack welded over rust and filled over. Old car old bodges eh?
I cut away the patches to find the rust had gone inwards and upwards. The sill wasn't sealed properly and the patches weren't painted either so damp could get in and had somewhere to go. The jacking point was wobbly because there was a chunk of filler from the patch to the mounting point and another patch welded under the carpet inside.
I cut away the sill to access the damage...
The stuctural support for the jacking point had rotted away from the outer sill patch and the inner sill was Swiss Cheese from the patches back. The inside din't look that bad until I had a poke about.
Using a bungee and my head rest I made sure the loom, boot and filler cap cables were safe...
...and as inner sill sections aren't available I started to make an end piece out of some metal everyone who has ever worked on their car should have in their shed.
I measured the size roughly and started to make a lip...
...straightening the lip with a pair of hammers...
...a few trial fits and a bit of editing with a grinder later and I had a pannel to weld in place...
...but chuff all to weld it to. I cut as much of the rust out as possible and made another lip. I welded this lip to the original inner sill so I had some clean(ish) metal to weld the new pannel to.
That's when I ran out of daylight so I'll get back to it in the morning. Just need to make a pannel to plate the floor properly, either cut the rest of the sill off and fit a new one or seem weld a new rear section to the existing one and reweld the jacking point in place.
The biggest decision is do I do a good enough job for M.O.T or do a good enough job for a classic car buff to appreciate? The Rover isn't a proper classic yet and the amount of time I spend will be determined by the weather and other factors out of my control.
Edited by Liquid Knight on Monday 2nd January 18:38
CDP said:
It's a good effort but shouldn't you have at least cleaned up and Kurusted the piece of steel you were welding in? (Generally if I've got a piece like that it doesn't end up in the car)
All the surface rust brushed off and has left a nice surface for the paint to key to. It looks a lot worse in the photos. Bit of a washout today...
...I am so tempted to photoshop a nine Inch axle into that photo.
So I made a pannel for the floor and using my spare sill a better patch from the cut off point to the end.
Pointless trying to grind while the car is bobbing up and down due to the wind so I have moved it closer to the house and found this quite amusing...
...that's about a months worth when I had my Beta.
Right back to work.
...I am so tempted to photoshop a nine Inch axle into that photo.
So I made a pannel for the floor and using my spare sill a better patch from the cut off point to the end.
Pointless trying to grind while the car is bobbing up and down due to the wind so I have moved it closer to the house and found this quite amusing...
...that's about a months worth when I had my Beta.
Right back to work.
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