Door won't open.

Door won't open.

Author
Discussion

gruffalo

Original Poster:

7,521 posts

226 months

Saturday 27th February 2016
quotequote all
Does any one have a Windows a doors control box I could try out, I think mine is intermittent.

The symptoms are that it keeps refusing to wind the drivers window all the way up whilst also refusing to open the doers or boot.

If I leave it half an hour then it will normally work fine or I may have to disconnect the plugs off the box in the boot to reset it.

Am I correct in thinking it is most likely the box in the boot going tits up, at first I thought it may be a door switch but that seems OK as the interior light seems to switch on and off fine when the door is opened and closed.

Any thoughts?


camel_landy

4,898 posts

183 months

Saturday 27th February 2016
quotequote all
It could be the switch/sensor which tells the ECU if the door is closed/open.

I had it once with mine when the passenger door hadn't quite shut...

M

Tanguero

4,535 posts

201 months

Saturday 27th February 2016
quotequote all
The most likely problem with any door or window issues is the connectors inside the door. TVR in their wisdom didn't use waterproof connectors and they tend to corrode and go intermittent. Of course its possible its the control box, but the box is far more reliable than the various connectors!

When I replaces all the connectors inside both doors with AMP Supaseal ones all my door and window problems disapeared.

tofts

411 posts

156 months

Saturday 27th February 2016
quotequote all
Tanguero said:
The most likely problem with any door or window issues is the connectors inside the door. TVR in their wisdom didn't use waterproof connectors and they tend to corrode and go intermittent. Of course its possible its the control box, but the box is far more reliable than the various connectors!

When I replaces all the connectors inside both doors with AMP Supaseal ones all my door and window problems disapeared.
+1 also did the superseal, brilliant mod, you will need 3x 6 way connectors. Only problem you will have is soldering the wires (i wouldn't crimp them alone) as they go black

gruffalo

Original Poster:

7,521 posts

226 months

Saturday 27th February 2016
quotequote all
Cheers chaps, I will take the door cards off tomorrow and clean every thing up.

Still suspicious of the control box as it all comes back to life when I disconnect the box and reconnect.

It effects both doors and windows.


Edited by gruffalo on Saturday 27th February 18:57

roseytvr

1,788 posts

178 months

Saturday 27th February 2016
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Gruff
More than welcome to borrow any bits off mine as I am stripping it. You have my email if you want to try the control box
Ian

Bogsye

391 posts

152 months

Saturday 27th February 2016
quotequote all
I've got the connectors to tackle on mine - I had the same issue of corroded wiring on my 205 Gti, but I used salt & vinegar solution to clean the bared wires, then bicarbonate of soda to neutralise it. Worked a treat. In my case I was just crimping new terminals for all the connector blocks in the engine bay, but it also would provide a good clean surface for soldering.

Need to start gathering the bits for the Cerb's doors - need to sort the slow electric windows too.

Brian

gruffalo

Original Poster:

7,521 posts

226 months

Saturday 27th February 2016
quotequote all
Thanks Ian, not received it yet but I am sure it will get here in due course.

That is a very kind offer, I will try cleaning all the connectors to,or row and if no joy I will take you up on this offer as I think you are not a million miles from me.

Cheers
Gruff

Jhonno

5,774 posts

141 months

Sunday 28th February 2016
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Speak to Paul at PS Electronics if you need a control box repair/test.

tofts

411 posts

156 months

Sunday 28th February 2016
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to be honest, these things usually blow darlington drivers, ULA2803a easy to replace. My heater control did this, because of my dodgy wiring attempts....

But they are used for low logic to relay drivers, may be able to repair it yourself, or if you struggle, I could do it for you if you need. If it is this chip, I have them on shelf, and they cost about 50p each!

gruffalo

Original Poster:

7,521 posts

226 months

Sunday 28th February 2016
quotequote all
Thanks Jody.

I will have a go with a different control box first as Ian has said I can try his and I think STR8six also have one I may be able to try.

Today I tried to get the door cards off and failed due to one rust bolt on each door so I am off down the tool shop tomorrow to get a 4mm Allen key socket so I can get some leverage on it so I can clean up the connectors if a second box displays the same issues.

If it is the box that is faulty I will have a look probably ask you to do a repair Jody in exchange for beer tokens.

Cheers everyone, thanks for your help.

GT6k

859 posts

162 months

Sunday 28th February 2016
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As said already this could be a dodgy sensor and is what mine did when the passenger seat belts was trapped in that door, nothing would open. So a dodgy sensor making one door look open when it isn't could do this.

gruffalo

Original Poster:

7,521 posts

226 months

Monday 29th February 2016
quotequote all
Just to update.

Got to love the Cerbera, but it seems to have sorted itself out so obviously a sticky reed switch.

I have a couple on order from RS and will change at least the drivers side as I am certain it was that side causing a problem. It obviously didn't like being left for 3 month with the body sat on a couple of pallets while the chassis work was completed.

Thanks for all the input and very useful suggestions, great community in the Cerbera world.


Demondad

478 posts

215 months

Friday 23rd June 2017
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I have the door opening problems so I'm considering changing the block connectors in the door to the AMP Supaseal type. Can anyone tell me which connectors I need and whether the job can be done with a standard crimp tool?

Penelope Stopit

11,209 posts

109 months

Friday 23rd June 2017
quotequote all
Demondad said:
I have the door opening problems so I'm considering changing the block connectors in the door to the AMP Supaseal type. Can anyone tell me which connectors I need and whether the job can be done with a standard crimp tool?
Here - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/0-14-1-5mm2-Tyco-Econose...