Door won't open.
Discussion
Does any one have a Windows a doors control box I could try out, I think mine is intermittent.
The symptoms are that it keeps refusing to wind the drivers window all the way up whilst also refusing to open the doers or boot.
If I leave it half an hour then it will normally work fine or I may have to disconnect the plugs off the box in the boot to reset it.
Am I correct in thinking it is most likely the box in the boot going tits up, at first I thought it may be a door switch but that seems OK as the interior light seems to switch on and off fine when the door is opened and closed.
Any thoughts?
The symptoms are that it keeps refusing to wind the drivers window all the way up whilst also refusing to open the doers or boot.
If I leave it half an hour then it will normally work fine or I may have to disconnect the plugs off the box in the boot to reset it.
Am I correct in thinking it is most likely the box in the boot going tits up, at first I thought it may be a door switch but that seems OK as the interior light seems to switch on and off fine when the door is opened and closed.
Any thoughts?
The most likely problem with any door or window issues is the connectors inside the door. TVR in their wisdom didn't use waterproof connectors and they tend to corrode and go intermittent. Of course its possible its the control box, but the box is far more reliable than the various connectors!
When I replaces all the connectors inside both doors with AMP Supaseal ones all my door and window problems disapeared.
When I replaces all the connectors inside both doors with AMP Supaseal ones all my door and window problems disapeared.
Tanguero said:
The most likely problem with any door or window issues is the connectors inside the door. TVR in their wisdom didn't use waterproof connectors and they tend to corrode and go intermittent. Of course its possible its the control box, but the box is far more reliable than the various connectors!
When I replaces all the connectors inside both doors with AMP Supaseal ones all my door and window problems disapeared.
+1 also did the superseal, brilliant mod, you will need 3x 6 way connectors. Only problem you will have is soldering the wires (i wouldn't crimp them alone) as they go blackWhen I replaces all the connectors inside both doors with AMP Supaseal ones all my door and window problems disapeared.
I've got the connectors to tackle on mine - I had the same issue of corroded wiring on my 205 Gti, but I used salt & vinegar solution to clean the bared wires, then bicarbonate of soda to neutralise it. Worked a treat. In my case I was just crimping new terminals for all the connector blocks in the engine bay, but it also would provide a good clean surface for soldering.
Need to start gathering the bits for the Cerb's doors - need to sort the slow electric windows too.
Brian
Need to start gathering the bits for the Cerb's doors - need to sort the slow electric windows too.
Brian
to be honest, these things usually blow darlington drivers, ULA2803a easy to replace. My heater control did this, because of my dodgy wiring attempts....
But they are used for low logic to relay drivers, may be able to repair it yourself, or if you struggle, I could do it for you if you need. If it is this chip, I have them on shelf, and they cost about 50p each!
But they are used for low logic to relay drivers, may be able to repair it yourself, or if you struggle, I could do it for you if you need. If it is this chip, I have them on shelf, and they cost about 50p each!
Thanks Jody.
I will have a go with a different control box first as Ian has said I can try his and I think STR8six also have one I may be able to try.
Today I tried to get the door cards off and failed due to one rust bolt on each door so I am off down the tool shop tomorrow to get a 4mm Allen key socket so I can get some leverage on it so I can clean up the connectors if a second box displays the same issues.
If it is the box that is faulty I will have a look probably ask you to do a repair Jody in exchange for beer tokens.
Cheers everyone, thanks for your help.
I will have a go with a different control box first as Ian has said I can try his and I think STR8six also have one I may be able to try.
Today I tried to get the door cards off and failed due to one rust bolt on each door so I am off down the tool shop tomorrow to get a 4mm Allen key socket so I can get some leverage on it so I can clean up the connectors if a second box displays the same issues.
If it is the box that is faulty I will have a look probably ask you to do a repair Jody in exchange for beer tokens.
Cheers everyone, thanks for your help.
Just to update.
Got to love the Cerbera, but it seems to have sorted itself out so obviously a sticky reed switch.
I have a couple on order from RS and will change at least the drivers side as I am certain it was that side causing a problem. It obviously didn't like being left for 3 month with the body sat on a couple of pallets while the chassis work was completed.
Thanks for all the input and very useful suggestions, great community in the Cerbera world.
Got to love the Cerbera, but it seems to have sorted itself out so obviously a sticky reed switch.
I have a couple on order from RS and will change at least the drivers side as I am certain it was that side causing a problem. It obviously didn't like being left for 3 month with the body sat on a couple of pallets while the chassis work was completed.
Thanks for all the input and very useful suggestions, great community in the Cerbera world.
Demondad said:
I have the door opening problems so I'm considering changing the block connectors in the door to the AMP Supaseal type. Can anyone tell me which connectors I need and whether the job can be done with a standard crimp tool?
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