Australian Compliance failure!

[Wolvesboy]

Ok here we go.......
Took my Cerb "over the pits" for it's engineering inspection today. I knew it would fail on not having a reverse light as I inadvertently pulled the wire out when changing the clutch slave!
However, it was a pain that the brake lights stopped working on the way there! Since worked out it is the pedal switch that works ok now!
Things it failed on otherwise:
1) couldn't locate the engine number!
2) no high level/ third brake light
3) too loud "popping and banging from the exhaust on the over run!

I was blown away with the last two as they were not specifically in the checklist! Looks like a small led unit will suffice for the 3rd brake light. However, I'm kinda hoping a different muffler will dull the noise a little to pass. Any suggestions on this exhaust issue and the precise location of the engine number as I cannot find it at all and the examiner could not either?
The examiner could not stop grinning when he test drove the car though and he passed everything else which is a relief!
Cheers from Perth!

[CerbWill]

Engine number is on the ID plate front passenger side of the engine bay. Its also stamped on the engine block, around the front mount on the driver's side. As for exhaust, whats your current setup?

[TwinKam]

...number faces upwards, on the block adjacent to the timing cover, just ahead of the pumps on the RHS.

[ukkid35]

The AJP8 doesn't switch off the injectors on overrun, I believe that was a marketing feature.

Since you can't change the valve overlap, your only options are more silencing, or perhaps you could ask an MBE guru such as Joolz to create an eprom with a quiet map for you.

[Wolvesboy]

Thanks for the quick replies.
I will search further for the engine block number as it needs to be sighted on the block. The problem has arisen that the British registration number is a 4500 whereas the plate on the front of the car states 4200!
The present exhaust is standard with middle cats and mufflers at the rear. The local exhaust place is dumbfounded too and suggested wire wool in the exhaust to absorb the sound more.
I'm not sure this will work but only a temporary fix to get it over the 2nd inspection.

[Wolvesboy]

Ok so what is the best option to reduce the noise level of the bangs and pops?
Resonators?
Additional silencers?
Newer, bigger/ smaller silencers?
There is no emissions testing going on so a few more options I suppose. It is just the road test " bangs and pops" that need to be quitened. I'm hoping that the solution can then be easily changed back once home as I love the noise on the overrun!

[CerbWill]

If you've already got the standard (large back box) option vs sports pipes, and have cats in, theres not a lot more can be done, maybe track day cans? As others have mentioned a better option might be a custom map which stops fuelling until lower down the rev range on the overrun.

[greenracing]

The Aussies are odd with the rules, glad to know there will be another cerb on the road, albeit a few km from Melbourne!!!!!

I would suggest removing the back box and creating a couple of wire wool bundles wrapped in wire and wedging them in the pipe. Temporary solution but that's all that's needed.

One thing to check though is that you haven't got cracks in you manifolds as that will add to the pops.

Edited by greenracing on Thursday 11th May 15:35

[Wolvesboy]

Thanks fellas.
Grenracing - I'm going to get some quotes for new mufflers both sides as I do think mine are a little small! The wire wool idea would be a bonus if it worked as it could potentially save a tidy sum. Do you mean inside the beginning of the muffler where it is separated from the exhaust? I'm a little worried that it would catch alight! Flames coming out of the exhaust would be cool but I don't think the inspector would be too amused! However, in your defence the initial recommendation from the inspection guys was actually the wire wool method!

[FarmyardPants]

If the throttles don't close fully this can sometimes suppress the pops and bangs. You could try turning the idle screw to keep them open a little, although then they'd probably fail it on high idle/emissions. Might be worth a try.

[Wolvesboy]

I might try the idle screw idea.
For some reason, there has been no emissions test at all! The Cerb has passed the inspection apart from these few things, including the pops and bangs. Fingers crossed.

[greenracing]

Basically you want to get the wire wool into the exhaust system before the end pipes so the join between the centre section and end pipes is best.

By wire wool I mean the proper exhaust stuff, see link or type exhaust wire wool into Google.

http://exhaustpartsuk.com/images/IMGP0975.JPG

[TwinKam]

A Brillo Pad could work, but you might end up with a Bubble Car...

[magpies]

greenracing said:

Basically you want to get the wire wool into the exhaust system before the end pipes so the join between the centre section and end pipes is best.

By wire wool I mean the proper exhaust stuff, see link or type exhaust wire wool into Google.

http://exhaustpartsuk.com/images/IMGP0975.JPG

This method was used years ago to get noisy cars through the noise tests on road rallies - usually held in place by a drilling small hole through the pipe after the wool and fitting a split pin - removed after the noise test along with the wool!

[Wolvesboy]

Exhaust sorted and passed the inspection.
Basically, similar to what green racing said - fireproof cladding wrapped around a broom brush with metal mesh (leaving a 25mm hole throughout). Did the trick and removed straight afterwards from the centre section before the final mufflers.