Discussion
Car number 68 is my first TVR and my first car with a GRP body. I strongly suspect that my learning curve may be steep, as my last 6 classic sports cars have been MG Midgets (one of which I still have, for now). I have done a full resto on a couple of MGs but never touched fuel injection systems.
I'm posting because having dragged the car from a garage, where it had been laid up for 12 years, I need some advice about where to start on the recommissioning. I am reading Steve Heaths excellent S bible before I start.
The car rolls, the engine can be turned (by hand) and the handbrake works, clutch pedal can be depressed (no idea if the clutch plate is stuck) and there are no obvious leaks. The tank contains some stale fuel and the car was driven into the garage when the previous owner bought a Chim.
The bores were oiled when laid up and the car had a 50% coolant mix in the system. Mileage is a genuine 38k, two owners and full history.
My plan is to change water pump, all hoses, thermostat, fan belt, flush heater core, block and radiator then refill the system. Change oil, filter, replace gearbox and axle oil. Remove the stale petrol and introduce some fresh stuff.
Then its the startup, plugs out, new battery, spin it over, check oil pressure, plugs in and go for it. If it starts, on to phase two.
Change the brake servo, replace seals in the master cylinder and calipers, fit new rear brake cylinders and shoes, new discs and pads up front. Replace all associated hoses and servo pipes, new seals on the brake fluid reservoir.
Whilst the brakes are apart, fit new suspension bushes, arb bushes and replace or paint any suspension parts.
Yes, I'm ignoring the elephant in the room - the chassis, which appears solid outrigger wise, but has some flaky areas and there is some surface rust. Accessible rust will be dealt with using POR15 then a two pack chassis paint for now.
At this point I can go through the electrics, remove the ancient alarm and immobiliser and then submit it for MOT.
If it passes I'll run it for a few months, then either next winter or the winter after I plan to do a body off resto on the chassis and get that blasted, repaired and then painted in two pack chassis paint.
Phew! So the question is, if you were rescuing a laid up TVR S, what else would you do?
I'm posting because having dragged the car from a garage, where it had been laid up for 12 years, I need some advice about where to start on the recommissioning. I am reading Steve Heaths excellent S bible before I start.
The car rolls, the engine can be turned (by hand) and the handbrake works, clutch pedal can be depressed (no idea if the clutch plate is stuck) and there are no obvious leaks. The tank contains some stale fuel and the car was driven into the garage when the previous owner bought a Chim.
The bores were oiled when laid up and the car had a 50% coolant mix in the system. Mileage is a genuine 38k, two owners and full history.
My plan is to change water pump, all hoses, thermostat, fan belt, flush heater core, block and radiator then refill the system. Change oil, filter, replace gearbox and axle oil. Remove the stale petrol and introduce some fresh stuff.
Then its the startup, plugs out, new battery, spin it over, check oil pressure, plugs in and go for it. If it starts, on to phase two.
Change the brake servo, replace seals in the master cylinder and calipers, fit new rear brake cylinders and shoes, new discs and pads up front. Replace all associated hoses and servo pipes, new seals on the brake fluid reservoir.
Whilst the brakes are apart, fit new suspension bushes, arb bushes and replace or paint any suspension parts.
Yes, I'm ignoring the elephant in the room - the chassis, which appears solid outrigger wise, but has some flaky areas and there is some surface rust. Accessible rust will be dealt with using POR15 then a two pack chassis paint for now.
At this point I can go through the electrics, remove the ancient alarm and immobiliser and then submit it for MOT.
If it passes I'll run it for a few months, then either next winter or the winter after I plan to do a body off resto on the chassis and get that blasted, repaired and then painted in two pack chassis paint.
Phew! So the question is, if you were rescuing a laid up TVR S, what else would you do?
Excellent - welcome to the world of TVR
If you're anywhere in the North End of the country- then our annual meet up will see many of the active S Owners all together at the classic car show in Bywell, Northumberland TODAY
You'll find this forum an invaluable resource, but its also worth going along to meets of your local TVR car club region, which attracts the enthusiastic members and is a good way into the social side of ownership
Where in the country are you?
If you're anywhere in the North End of the country- then our annual meet up will see many of the active S Owners all together at the classic car show in Bywell, Northumberland TODAY
You'll find this forum an invaluable resource, but its also worth going along to meets of your local TVR car club region, which attracts the enthusiastic members and is a good way into the social side of ownership
Where in the country are you?
Welcome!!
Change the tyres!!!
The tyres on mine were 12 years old and although of decent quality and not cracked were lethal on a slow, dry roundabout on the way back from the first MOT after recommissioning.
On such a light car, old hard rubber is dangerous.
Most here recommend Dunlop Sport BluResponse for an unmodified road car; I'm another satisfied customer.
You beat me to it, Tony!
Change the tyres!!!
The tyres on mine were 12 years old and although of decent quality and not cracked were lethal on a slow, dry roundabout on the way back from the first MOT after recommissioning.
On such a light car, old hard rubber is dangerous.
Most here recommend Dunlop Sport BluResponse for an unmodified road car; I'm another satisfied customer.
You beat me to it, Tony!
Welcome !
And..... Good Luck with everything
Bercilac said:
The car rolls, the engine can be turned (by hand) and the handbrake works, clutch pedal can be depressed (no idea if the clutch plate is stuck) and there are no obvious leaks.
Maybe some fresh clutch fluid and a new slave cylinder, or at least the seals.Bercilac said:
My plan is to change water pump, all hoses, thermostat, fan belt, flush heater core, block and radiator then refill the system. Change oil, filter, replace gearbox and axle oil. Remove the stale petrol and introduce some fresh stuff.
Think about changing the fuel filter as well, and clean out the inside of the tank. Fit a pre-pump in-line filter.Bercilac said:
Change the brake servo, replace seals in the master cylinder and calipers, fit new rear brake cylinders and shoes, new discs and pads up front. Replace all associated hoses and servo pipes, new seals on the brake fluid reservoir.
Bercilac said:
Whilst the brakes are apart, fit new suspension bushes, arb bushes and replace or paint any suspension parts.
Possibly fit a solid ARB link, replacing the old one completely.Bercilac said:
Yes, I'm ignoring the elephant in the room - the chassis, which appears solid outrigger wise, but has some flaky areas and there is some surface rust. Accessible rust will be dealt with using POR15 then a two pack chassis paint for now.
If it passes I'll run it for a few months, then either next winter or the winter after I plan to do a body off resto on the chassis and get that blasted, repaired and then painted in two pack chassis paint.
Do a partial body off to see how bad it is. There's plenty of info on here about how to do this.If it passes I'll run it for a few months, then either next winter or the winter after I plan to do a body off resto on the chassis and get that blasted, repaired and then painted in two pack chassis paint.
And..... Good Luck with everything
Bobhon said:
Sorry if you have already covered this in your extensive list.
Replace all of the fuel hoses. Tales abound of burning TVR's due to them breaking down and spraying the engine with fuel.
The older hoses don't like the latest versions of petrol.
The fuel hoses to use is : Gates Baricade, Nothing else in my opinion.Replace all of the fuel hoses. Tales abound of burning TVR's due to them breaking down and spraying the engine with fuel.
The older hoses don't like the latest versions of petrol.
Good luck with your nice looking S.
Nice looking car!
Another one for tyres from me.
Mine had 16+ year old tyres on when I bought it and seemed perfectly serviceable as far as tread etc. were concerned, but what a difference when I changed them - totally transformed the car.
Following the lead of others on this forum I also went from the Dunlop Blue Rinse
and I’m very happy with them.
Good luck with getting it back on the road.
Andy
Another one for tyres from me.
Mine had 16+ year old tyres on when I bought it and seemed perfectly serviceable as far as tread etc. were concerned, but what a difference when I changed them - totally transformed the car.
Following the lead of others on this forum I also went from the Dunlop Blue Rinse
and I’m very happy with them.Good luck with getting it back on the road.
Andy
Guys, thank you all, great info and I'd completely forgotten the fuel hoses!
I've priced up a set of Dunlops (very reasonable) and I'm itching to get a spanner on it next weekend. Thanks for all the advice and I shall of course post updates and ask more questions.
Just reading Steve Heath's fabulous tome and compiling lists of part numbers.
I'm in Cheshire (Knutsford) surrounded by similar minded car nuts.
I've priced up a set of Dunlops (very reasonable) and I'm itching to get a spanner on it next weekend. Thanks for all the advice and I shall of course post updates and ask more questions.
Just reading Steve Heath's fabulous tome and compiling lists of part numbers.
I'm in Cheshire (Knutsford) surrounded by similar minded car nuts.
Welcome to the friendly world of S enthusiasts. Good to see another car being dragged back to life. Mine, also an S1, was another 'dead' car that had been off the road a long time and is now giving a lot of fun. I am near Preston if you need a reference car. Can you clarify for us exactly which model and year (and month) yours is as it will help with advice.
Chassis is definitely the main point. There are two key points that usually go first; The first, and by far the most dangerous, is the rear trailing arms , especially the outer tube which is more or less parallel with the car, they can look sound but they fill up with road dirt and rust from the inside. Clean then out and scrape any paint off and check for ANY pinholes or distortion. We have an expert, Adrian Venn, who is set up with the jigs to refurbish these parts. The second is the front body outriggers because they are rather exposed and not well protected on the front corners where the body mounting plate it. I have to warn you it is fairly rare to find a car which doesn't need work there.
At the top of the PH S page is a list of useful material. In amongst it is the NEW Alternative Parts List. Print off a copy and put it with your Steve Heath 'bible'. It contains invaluable information on parts numbers and alternative sources. TVR Parts are getting better as catering for the S and some difficult parts like bodywork seal rubbers are now available again. Do treat the 'bible' with a little care, the vast majority is correct but a few issues have come to light since it was published especially in that now two TVR cars are exactly the same, especially the earlier S cars.
If it has been standing so long I would anticipate the fuel tank will be rusty inside and that the in tank filter will have broken up. Rust getting to the pump will wreck it quite quickly. A good in line filter with replaceable cartridges from Demon Tweeks or Car Builder Supplies like a Sytec will be a good investment and will show you how fast rust/muck is coming out. New tanks are expensive as they have to be made to order and they need either internal baffles or foam filling. However Hartlepool Radiator have now restored a number of S tanks, using a very sophisticated process, to a very high standard. They will do it by 'mail order'. They also know the S radiator (which is an LDV rad with an extra core) and again several of us have used them with very good results.
One of our keen members, Richard Kitchen, has just written a booklet on what to look for on an S. It is on pre-order at the moment due out late summer I believe. He is a good guy and has brought in a lot of experience from his business in Portsmouth which has done a lot of TVR restorations.
Anything you need to know just ask on here, regulars check it pretty well daily.
Chassis is definitely the main point. There are two key points that usually go first; The first, and by far the most dangerous, is the rear trailing arms , especially the outer tube which is more or less parallel with the car, they can look sound but they fill up with road dirt and rust from the inside. Clean then out and scrape any paint off and check for ANY pinholes or distortion. We have an expert, Adrian Venn, who is set up with the jigs to refurbish these parts. The second is the front body outriggers because they are rather exposed and not well protected on the front corners where the body mounting plate it. I have to warn you it is fairly rare to find a car which doesn't need work there.
At the top of the PH S page is a list of useful material. In amongst it is the NEW Alternative Parts List. Print off a copy and put it with your Steve Heath 'bible'. It contains invaluable information on parts numbers and alternative sources. TVR Parts are getting better as catering for the S and some difficult parts like bodywork seal rubbers are now available again. Do treat the 'bible' with a little care, the vast majority is correct but a few issues have come to light since it was published especially in that now two TVR cars are exactly the same, especially the earlier S cars.
If it has been standing so long I would anticipate the fuel tank will be rusty inside and that the in tank filter will have broken up. Rust getting to the pump will wreck it quite quickly. A good in line filter with replaceable cartridges from Demon Tweeks or Car Builder Supplies like a Sytec will be a good investment and will show you how fast rust/muck is coming out. New tanks are expensive as they have to be made to order and they need either internal baffles or foam filling. However Hartlepool Radiator have now restored a number of S tanks, using a very sophisticated process, to a very high standard. They will do it by 'mail order'. They also know the S radiator (which is an LDV rad with an extra core) and again several of us have used them with very good results.
One of our keen members, Richard Kitchen, has just written a booklet on what to look for on an S. It is on pre-order at the moment due out late summer I believe. He is a good guy and has brought in a lot of experience from his business in Portsmouth which has done a lot of TVR restorations.
Anything you need to know just ask on here, regulars check it pretty well daily.
Super advice, thanks, much appreciated and I think you are 100% correct regards chassis rot, there is bound to be some. The tank is coming out at the weekend and the chassis is going to get a good going over in line with your tips.
I'm looking forward to taking it all apart and I'm pretty much expecting to need to lift the body at some point - if I can find out what else is needed (engine, trans etc.) I can save some extra pain when I put the jigsaw back together.
I'm looking forward to taking it all apart and I'm pretty much expecting to need to lift the body at some point - if I can find out what else is needed (engine, trans etc.) I can save some extra pain when I put the jigsaw back together.
The tank cradle can rot too. But it is a pretty easy thing to make a new one. You will find TVR used a section which isnt easy to get now but the nearest size metric is available in a slightly thicker steel, which is better anyway. If you do make one remember to make sure water/muck can get out!
Quick update, made a start on the car and so far so good. Up onto axle stands, wheels off, good poke about with a wire brush and then some PlusGas on all the nuts and bolts I'll be undoing next weekend.
The next job was the dreaded hammer to the chassis and the trailing arms. I started fairly gently but ended up beating hell out it as everything rang like a bell, no dull thuds. Wrapped my fingers round all the outrigger tubes and found only surface rust, no crunchy bits or holes.
Mostly the chassis still has it's powder coating in tact, but in a few places it has peeled and there is surface corrosion. No holes detected yet, partial body lift planned for next weekend. Clean up, POR 15 on the rusty bits, then Rustoleum gloss white, unless it needs welding of course. If I can put off the full chassis restoration for a few years that works for me. I want to have a go at driving it before the winter.
I also did some fun stuff like ripping out the old alarm and tidying up the spaghetti factory wiring.
Other items of note - fuel hoses are shocking (Gates Barricade and quality clamps ordered, glad I didn't try to start it) and the radiator is doing a great impression of a sieve (new Subaru WRX alloy rad on its way with a dual fans). As expected all of the coolant hoses are toast, but I'm going to make up a set using stock hose.
The clutch still operates as do the brakes, although the entire braking system is coming off for complete replacement with new bits. Rear axle back plates are solid and still in factory paint. The stainless exhaust is completely free of corrosion and has only minor dents.
The observable bits of the shell look good with no gel coat cracks. The hood is knackered, split, as are the seats and gear lever gaiter, but the carpets came up nice and the rest of the vinyl trim looks fine. There is no corrosion on the gauges but of course I have no idea if they work!
The next job was the dreaded hammer to the chassis and the trailing arms. I started fairly gently but ended up beating hell out it as everything rang like a bell, no dull thuds. Wrapped my fingers round all the outrigger tubes and found only surface rust, no crunchy bits or holes.
Mostly the chassis still has it's powder coating in tact, but in a few places it has peeled and there is surface corrosion. No holes detected yet, partial body lift planned for next weekend. Clean up, POR 15 on the rusty bits, then Rustoleum gloss white, unless it needs welding of course. If I can put off the full chassis restoration for a few years that works for me. I want to have a go at driving it before the winter.
I also did some fun stuff like ripping out the old alarm and tidying up the spaghetti factory wiring.
Other items of note - fuel hoses are shocking (Gates Barricade and quality clamps ordered, glad I didn't try to start it) and the radiator is doing a great impression of a sieve (new Subaru WRX alloy rad on its way with a dual fans). As expected all of the coolant hoses are toast, but I'm going to make up a set using stock hose.
The clutch still operates as do the brakes, although the entire braking system is coming off for complete replacement with new bits. Rear axle back plates are solid and still in factory paint. The stainless exhaust is completely free of corrosion and has only minor dents.
The observable bits of the shell look good with no gel coat cracks. The hood is knackered, split, as are the seats and gear lever gaiter, but the carpets came up nice and the rest of the vinyl trim looks fine. There is no corrosion on the gauges but of course I have no idea if they work!
Quick update, and thanks for all the info here and across PH. The body is now six inches off the chassis, suspension and front end stripped, and on removing the rubber pads (drum roll) some very minor surface corrosion, no holes, no flaking shards of rust.
Every bit of rubber needs to be replaced of course and the entire braking system is being replaced with new parts from pedal to pads and shoes, apart from the calipers which have been restored by a brake specialist. Servo looked brand new on top, toast underneath and full of holes. Fortunately TVR Parts had direct replacements for that and the master cylinder.
The front bushes were really quite good, with only minor deterioration, but I'm poly-bushing the lot anyway. The tank has surface corrosion but is clean as a whistle inside, just needs a new gauze filter.
Everything came apart really easily after two weeks soaking in my home brew (ATF and acetone) and the surface rust is going to be wire brushed and treated to POR15 (Marine Clean, Metal Prep and POR15 undercoat) topped off with a nice white coat of Rustoleum. I know I should really take it all apart and have it blasted and painted properly but I can do that when I retire in ten years time!
I love working on this thing. It is like a big Meccano kit and being able to unbolt the body is cool. Anyway, should be done before Christmas, if I can keep sneaking the odd hour away from work that is. I'm 30 hours into it so far and I'm hoping another 100 puts it on the road.
Every bit of rubber needs to be replaced of course and the entire braking system is being replaced with new parts from pedal to pads and shoes, apart from the calipers which have been restored by a brake specialist. Servo looked brand new on top, toast underneath and full of holes. Fortunately TVR Parts had direct replacements for that and the master cylinder.
The front bushes were really quite good, with only minor deterioration, but I'm poly-bushing the lot anyway. The tank has surface corrosion but is clean as a whistle inside, just needs a new gauze filter.
Everything came apart really easily after two weeks soaking in my home brew (ATF and acetone) and the surface rust is going to be wire brushed and treated to POR15 (Marine Clean, Metal Prep and POR15 undercoat) topped off with a nice white coat of Rustoleum. I know I should really take it all apart and have it blasted and painted properly but I can do that when I retire in ten years time!
I love working on this thing. It is like a big Meccano kit and being able to unbolt the body is cool. Anyway, should be done before Christmas, if I can keep sneaking the odd hour away from work that is. I'm 30 hours into it so far and I'm hoping another 100 puts it on the road.
Well, 2lb lump hammer has found some rot (at last!) in one trailing arm (three pin holes one tube, surgery required) and the tank cradle (needs a new piece bar welding in) so not too bad.
Fuel tank, front suspension and most other bits painted - chassis gets it this weekend. Modded the ARB to have bolt on, rose jointed, adjustable drop links with £25 of bits from a racing shop and I've ordered some base model GAZ boingy things for each corner.
All in all I'm surprised how small the scrap pile is. It only fills a 10 litre plastic box. I may get to drive it one day after all.
Fuel tank, front suspension and most other bits painted - chassis gets it this weekend. Modded the ARB to have bolt on, rose jointed, adjustable drop links with £25 of bits from a racing shop and I've ordered some base model GAZ boingy things for each corner.
All in all I'm surprised how small the scrap pile is. It only fills a 10 litre plastic box. I may get to drive it one day after all.
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