Battery Warning Light - permanently on !

Battery Warning Light - permanently on !

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Mr Cerbera

Original Poster:

5,031 posts

230 months

Tuesday 3rd July 2018
quotequote all
Hi Team wavey

Just as I'm going through last-minute checks before joining guillotine
in Belgium next week, my Battery Warning Light has come on - permanently.

It came on yesterday, just normal driving around, although hot outside.
Managed to get her home in 20 minutes and the motor started again, there, without probs.
Tried her again today and started no probs but light still on !

Had a search on here and most peeps tend to go with "Big Fuse".
Some have said "2 minute job" and others have said "a real bd".

My baby is a 2001 4.5 and, for the last 12 years, I haven't even been able to see the
offending article, let alone replace it.

Anyone got any tips on how NOT to make this a gigantic rebuild laugh

Ta !

PJ scratchchin

Edited by Mr Cerbera on Wednesday 4th July 06:36

Jhonno

5,774 posts

141 months

Tuesday 3rd July 2018
quotequote all
Check the voltage on the battery when running..

Penelope Stopit

11,209 posts

109 months

Tuesday 3rd July 2018
quotequote all
The first test to carry out is to disconnect the alternator warning light wire and switch the ignition on...there should be no battery light showing

The second test to carry out is to measure + & - voltages at the alternator for any volt drops, be sure that the + & - are good

If those two tests prove to be checking out ok the alternator is faulty

I really shouldn't ask this but.....Have you checked the fan belt?.....Sorry I had to

Flatplane8

1,486 posts

262 months

Tuesday 3rd July 2018
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Big fuse in the alternator lead. Likely to have a vibration fracture at one end. smile

ukkid35

6,175 posts

173 months

Tuesday 3rd July 2018
quotequote all
Penelope Stopit said:
I really shouldn't ask this but.....Have you checked the fan belt?.....Sorry I had to
Although our friend is perhaps being a little perverse, there is actually the possibility that the alternator belt is slipping enough to stop the alternator charging

I had something vaguely similar happening with another car, except with the PS belt

Belts can slip without squealing - I honestly didn't appreciate that

In my case a PS belt was slipping under load, but not squealing, due to oil contamination

Alternator belts are probably much less prone to slipping due to their multi rib structure, but don't rule it out

Penelope Stopit

11,209 posts

109 months

Tuesday 3rd July 2018
quotequote all
ukkid35 said:
Penelope Stopit said:
I really shouldn't ask this but.....Have you checked the fan belt?.....Sorry I had to
Although our friend is perhaps being a little perverse, there is actually the possibility that the alternator belt is slipping enough to stop the alternator charging

I had something vaguely similar happening with another car, except with the PS belt

Belts can slip without squealing - I honestly didn't appreciate that

In my case a PS belt was slipping under load, but not squealing, due to oil contamination

Alternator belts are probably much less prone to slipping due to their multi rib structure, but don't rule it out
You've hit the nail on the head kid
I have never liked asking anyone if they have checked the belt as this is a bit like asking "do you know what you are doing", although it is something often overlooked by many

FarmyardPants

4,108 posts

218 months

Wednesday 4th July 2018
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Jhonno said:
Check the voltage on the battery when running..
^ This. Only takes a sec and will tell you if it’s a false alarm. Voltage should read 12v with engine off and 13.5+ at 2k revs.

If the light is on for no reason it’s possible the oil warning light and battery lights have swapped wiring, in which case possibly the wire has come off the oil pressure switch.



Penelope Stopit

11,209 posts

109 months

Wednesday 4th July 2018
quotequote all
FarmyardPants said:
^ This. Only takes a sec and will tell you if it’s a false alarm. Voltage should read 12v with engine off and 13.5+ at 2k revs.

If the light is on for no reason it’s possible the oil warning light and battery lights have swapped wiring, in which case possibly the wire has come off the oil pressure switch.
If the wiring was the wrong way round and the battery light came on and stayed on permanently it would mean there was no oil pressure and the engine would have disintegrated

If the wiring was the wrong way round and the wire had come off the oil pressure switch the battery light would not illuminate

Byker28i

59,788 posts

217 months

Wednesday 4th July 2018
quotequote all
Big fuse. Do your wipers move really slowly. Does the tacho jump around

The original big fuse is mounted on the back of the engine. Remove the scuttle panel and look down behind the coils. As said, you won't see it's broken as it fractures by the tab. Getting the cover unclipped can be a bh.

Use a small socket on a long extention to undo the nuts slightly to ease the fuse out. If it's metal, wrap it in tape if you haven't disconnected the battery to stop your tool shorting on the engine/throttle link etc.

Sometimes they come slightly too long to fit, so it's worth just filing down the bolt slot slightly to make it fit.



Mr Cerbera

Original Poster:

5,031 posts

230 months

Wednesday 4th July 2018
quotequote all
Penelope Stopit said:
......
I really shouldn't ask this but.....Have you checked the fan belt?.....Sorry I had to
Well, I'm glad you DID ask coz I can't find it !!

I can't believe that the alternator is located BEHIND the AC pump.
Where the hell does the drive come from ?

I know that I'm stupid but surely it can't be here..... Can it !!




That'll mean that I'll have to take the fuel injection system apart to change the belt.

Shirley not ?? scratchchin



Holy Dingbats !!

Edited by Mr Cerbera on Wednesday 4th July 17:47

TwinKam

2,979 posts

95 months

Wednesday 4th July 2018
quotequote all
Top pic, Yep, it's in there, alternator just visible.
Bottom pic, the alternator and its mounting bracket have been removed, you're looking at the drive pulley (which is driven by the timing chain).
I don't think Penelope realised that it's not that easy to check the drive belt on an AJP, as others have suggested it's far simpler to put a voltmeter across the battery and check for an increase in volts when the engine is running.
You must have seen/ touched your 100A fuse when you worked on your coils/ HT leads recently, it should be just behind them.

Penelope Stopit

11,209 posts

109 months

Wednesday 4th July 2018
quotequote all
TwinKam said:
I don't think Penelope realised that it's not that easy to check the drive belt on an AJP
Mmmm Penelope had no idea whatsoever about how difficult that engine is to work on, Penelope also suggested -

"The first test to carry out is to disconnect the alternator warning light wire and switch the ignition on...there should be no battery light showing

The second test to carry out is to measure + & - voltages at the alternator for any volt drops, be sure that the + & - are good"

Penelope was not even close on this one and apologises for such a way off the mark suggested diagnosis

Mr Cerbera, good look in finding the problem, please excuse my ignorance......Nice engine

FarmyardPants

4,108 posts

218 months

Thursday 5th July 2018
quotequote all
Penelope Stopit said:
If the wiring was the wrong way round and the battery light came on and stayed on permanently it would mean there was no oil pressure and the engine would have disintegrated

If the wiring was the wrong way round and the wire had come off the oil pressure switch the battery light would not illuminate
hehe not necessarily.

The pressure switch sits in the vee. If the wire had come off there's a good chance the terminal is resting on the block.



FarmyardPants

4,108 posts

218 months

Thursday 5th July 2018
quotequote all
Penelope Stopit said:
TwinKam said:
I don't think Penelope realised that it's not that easy to check the drive belt on an AJP
Mmmm Penelope had no idea whatsoever about how difficult that engine is to work on,
Agreed smile

Penelope Stopit said:
Penelope also suggested -

"The first test to carry out is to disconnect the alternator warning light wire and switch the ignition on...there should be no battery light showing

The second test to carry out is to measure + & - voltages at the alternator for any volt drops, be sure that the + & - are good"
Neither of these suggestions are really viable unless you remove the fuel rail which involves a lot of disassembly (second pic) and you can't run the engine in that state anyway.

Penelope Stopit said:
Penelope was not even close on this one and apologises for such a way off the mark suggested diagnosis

Mr Cerbera, good look in finding the problem, please excuse my ignorance......Nice engine
That's ok.

Paul, let us know what the voltage is across the battery with engine running, assuming it still starts wink


Edited by FarmyardPants on Thursday 5th July 09:27

Penelope Stopit

11,209 posts

109 months

Thursday 5th July 2018
quotequote all
FarmyardPants said:
If the light is on for no reason it’s possible the oil warning light and battery lights have swapped wiring, in which case possibly the wire has come off the oil pressure switch.
This is very interesting, I commented - If the wiring was the wrong way round and the battery light came on and stayed on permanently it would mean there was no oil pressure and the engine would have disintegrated

I was commenting on your above post

You didn't mention about the wire could be shorting on the block

Only a subtle addition on your part hey.....but a massive difference




Edited by Penelope Stopit on Thursday 5th July 09:44

Mr Cerbera

Original Poster:

5,031 posts

230 months

Thursday 5th July 2018
quotequote all

Penelope Stopit

11,209 posts

109 months

Thursday 5th July 2018
quotequote all

Mr Cerbera

Original Poster:

5,031 posts

230 months

Thursday 5th July 2018
quotequote all
FarmyardPants said:
That's ok.

Paul, let us know what the voltage is across the battery with engine running, assuming it still starts wink
Before Starting: Volts across Battery (to engine earth) = 12.33V
When idling ~ 900 rpm = 11.96V

From my 'standing next to wing' view I can't see the alternaror pulley moving scratchchin

BUT
I can't see the engine pulley moving either yikes

Am gonna try to see summat more with an endoscope cam.
Have taken my necktie off (just in case).

Wish me luck silly


Mr Cerbera

Original Poster:

5,031 posts

230 months

Thursday 5th July 2018
quotequote all
Penelope Stopit said:
OK, perhaps I was being a little obtuse.

Mine was "Sho Shin", the nearest translation of which is "Beginner's Mind".
i.e. Always ask questions. Without questions there are no answers and no mental growth.

I'm with you Penny thumbup

Penelope Stopit

11,209 posts

109 months

Thursday 5th July 2018
quotequote all
Mr Cerbera said:
Penelope Stopit said:
OK, perhaps I was being a little obtuse.

Mine was "Sho Shin", the nearest translation of which is "Beginner's Mind".
i.e. Always ask questions. Without questions there are no answers and no mental growth.

I'm with you Penny thumbup
You know something Mr Cerbera, I thought it may have been something like that as you do strike me as being a gentleman, I also thought that it could have been something else which I will not elaborate on

Yes, Sho Shin is definitely the way forward.

Once upon a time I visited the Benetton F1 Factory and the person showing my group around mentioned "CAD", In the middle of a very busy office full of engineers I asked out loud......What does CAD mean? I did blush a little when I received the answer. I wish more people would ask and learn rather than pretend to know but not knowing something isn't macho is it

I'm with you Mr Cerbera


Edited by Penelope Stopit on Thursday 5th July 15:50