Tips on AJP engine removal

[ntvrman]

Hi,
I need to do a job on bank A cylinder head, so thought it would be best to take the engine out to do it properly. But I’ve limited knowledge on this engine, so would like some guidance on how to get it out. I have a copy of what is called a workshop manual so once it’s out I can follow that to do the work, but I’ve never worked on a more cramped engine bay. So any help would be great fully received.

ntvrman

[CerbWill]

1. I'll assume you've already removed the air intakes and drained the coolant. Disconnect ECU wiring loom. If you have an early car there'll be a bulkhead connector under the expansion tank so you can undo that. Later looms were 1 piece so you'll have to disconnect every plug from the engine. This will require removal of the coil packs, which may in itself require removal of the throttles, so you can unplug the wire on the oil pressure warning switch.

2. Disconnect hoses (small) from rear of coolant rails. and hoses (large) from the front of coolant rails.

3. Remove air con compressor and rest on chassis infront of engine to keep a/c system intact.

4. Get under the car and remove chassis bracing plates, exhaust (split at cats), heatshield, and prop shaft.

5. Undo 4x bolts holding gear shifter to gearbox. You'll have to do this blind so have a look at some photos of a T5 box first.

6. Disconnect Reverse switch from N/S of gearbox. Undo rear gearbox mount. Remove when you plan to start lifting the engine. Might require a trolley jack to lift the gearbox for that.

7. Undo clutch hose to bellhousing (O/S of engine), PAS hoses (O/S), coolant feed hose (O/S but plainly visible from underneath), engine earth strap (N/S) and oil hoses to/from oil cooler (N/S).

8. Remove starter motor. Go in from the top and you'll probably have to remove the throttles if you haven't already.

9. Disconnect fuel feed/return hoses if somehow you haven't taken the throttles and fuel rail off by this point.

That should be the engine disconnected and just sitting on it's mounts. Undo the nuts holding the rubber mounts on and start lifting. You'll need to remove the engine mounts from the engine when you've lifted it a few centimeters as they're wider than the chassis so wont lift up with the engine.

You could remove the gearbox and clutch housing from the engine and then take the engine out, but its easier to drag it all out as 1 lump. Incidentally, what job are you needing to do on the cylinder head?

[ntvrman]

I have oil in the air intake , so I’m assuming that the head gasket needs replacing, whilst this is being done was going to have the head checked. Also the subframe needs cleaning, might as well do it all properly. There are of course a number of other jobs that need doing to the car, like front screen seal needs redoing, paint work needs tiding.

ntvrman

[TwinKam]

More likely coming from the breather system, not the world's best design on these cars. I'd recommend running it for a while with the breathers going to a remote catch can (or atmosphere) before ripping it to pieces.

[CerbWill]

Yup, that's not an immediate cause for cylinder head removal, though the crankcase ventillation goes into the O/S only. After 83000 miles the throttles on mine had oily deposits on both sides with no symptoms of head gasket failure.

[Jhonno]

As they say.. I would check the breather system first. That doesn't sound HG to me.

[ukkid35]

As others have said - you may not really need to pull the engine

But if you do, CerbWill's list is almost exhaustive, but it appears to miss the steering shaft

That shaft should be a five minute job, but there is every chance that it will prove to be a PITA

That's because the UJs can suffer from horrible play unless over tightened

And then they become impossible to remove - Good luck

[ntvrman]

Thanks everyone, I check the breather first although, most of the systems fuel and cooling are on a poor state, so will need new hoses anyway. I have come across one issue already, there’s a temperature sensor that appears to have welded itself into one of the pipes I couldnt get it out with heat and in the end it broke the rigid wire connected to it, will need to solder or weld it back together.

ntvrman

[TwinKam]

Unfortunately it's not a 'wire', it's a capillary tube, and it's inseparable from the gauge. You'll need either a replacement gauge, or I believe there are places that can repair them.

[FarmyardPants]

ntvrman said:

Thanks everyone, I check the breather first although, most of the systems fuel and cooling are on a poor state, so will need new hoses anyway. I have come across one issue already, there’s a temperature sensor that appears to have welded itself into one of the pipes I couldnt get it out with heat and in the end it broke the rigid wire connected to it, will need to solder or weld it back together.

ntvrman

Someone might correct me but I believe the temperature gauge/sensor/tube is one sealed system and if that’s broken then you’ll have to get the whole caboodle repaired, eg by SpeedyCables (which by all accounts will take a few months) and then you will have to thread it all through the bulkhead from the dash

Edit as said above

[ntvrman]

Thanks everyone, I check the breather first although, most of the systems fuel and cooling are on a poor state, so will need new hoses anyway. I have come across one issue already, there’s a temperature sensor that appears to have welded itself into one of the pipes I couldnt get it out with heat and in the end it broke the rigid wire connected to it, will need to solder or weld it back together.

ntvrman

[ntvrman]

Hi,

Here’s a coupe of photos of the wire and it’s connecting point. How does one get it out?


Thanks for your comments.
ntvrman

[ntvrman]

Thanks everyone, I check the breather first although, most of the systems fuel and cooling are on a poor state, so will need new hoses anyway. I have come across one issue already, there’s a temperature sensor that appears to have welded itself into one of the pipes I couldnt get it out with heat and in the end it broke the rigid wire connected to it, will need to solder or weld it back together.

ntvrman

[CerbWill]

That's the end of the capillary temp sensor. Looks like you've unscrewed the nut that holds it in place so it should just pull out, it may well be corroded in place and put up a bit of a fight though.

I've also remembered the oil pressure gauge hose that's under the coil packs. That can be disconnected from either the engine side under the coil packs, or where it passes through the top of the inner O/S wing.

There's also some breather pipes that connect to the throttles and airboxes to evacuate the carbon canister on startup, and obviously the brake servo vacuum hose connected to the N/S throttle bank (at least it is on a 4.2, not sure about 4.5).

[ntvrman]

Hi, guys,
I’ve stripped the Aircon compressor and belt off, I’ve found that the tensioner is very noisy, does anyone know a part number for it as I think it needs to be replaced.
Any help is really appreciated.

ntvrman

[CerbWill]

https://www.alexjudd.com/cerbera/parts/

2nd entry.