water oil pump separation

water oil pump separation

Author
Discussion

Chimp871

Original Poster:

837 posts

117 months

Thursday 4th July 2019
quotequote all
got the unit out on the bench and removed the front and rear circlip, front bearing looks bad:

2 questions:

How do you separate the oil and water units
The shaft that comes through the timing cover has a square copper-ish seal, folded over the bolts. Re-use or find another, and where the heck from?

I did ring around and was quoted £800 for refurbing the unit.



CerbWill

670 posts

118 months

Friday 5th July 2019
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Try Jody Wiles at Python Racing. Might be a bit cheaper. There's an art to getting it apart for sure.

Byker28i

59,804 posts

217 months

Friday 5th July 2019
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Surely thats just for locking the bolts in position. On old British cars we used to reuse it

TwinKam

2,980 posts

95 months

Friday 5th July 2019
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Yep it all pulls apart, but with extreme caution to support and load only in appropriate places, especially where the water impellers are concerned.
And then it all has to be pressed back together again.
I did mine myself, and despite having all the required tools/expertise, still had my heart in my mouth!
And yes, tab washer is easy enough to make if yours is beyond it, but try annealing it.

Jhonno

5,774 posts

141 months

Friday 5th July 2019
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Just take the PS pump off and send it to John @ Readman Racing! Should be less than 1/2 that £800 quote! Top chap!

Jhonno

5,774 posts

141 months

Friday 5th July 2019
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Also, the front bearing rarely fails, it is oiled by engine oil and John will check it.

Rufus Roughcut

535 posts

175 months

Friday 5th July 2019
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I found the shaft had corroded right where the lip of the rotary seal sits, hence mine leaking coolant.




Impellers.




You'll need 2 x these ceramic seals.




Shaft can be bought from the usual suppliers.




The rest of the seals/o rings/bearings are standard and stocked everywhere.

ukkid35

6,175 posts

173 months

Friday 5th July 2019
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What is the procedure for upgrading the shaft when doing a rebuild?

I think it was '99 on when upgraded shafts were used

TwinKam

2,980 posts

95 months

Friday 5th July 2019
quotequote all
ukkid35 said:
What is the procedure for upgrading the shaft when doing a rebuild?

I think it was '99 on when upgraded shafts were used
2016 in my case biglaugh

Rufus Roughcut

535 posts

175 months

Friday 5th July 2019
quotequote all
Mine's an August 98 car, the shaft I took out was exactly the same dimensions as the new one.

I'd be surprised if they were still making the early type shaft, so one would assume it is the later type?

One thing I did notice and I don't think it was designed this way? the nose of the shaft where the gear fits had a very slight taper!

It wasn't due to wear as there wasn't a step.

The new one as expected was parallel, machining tolerances I'm guessing..lol.


Chimp871

Original Poster:

837 posts

117 months

Friday 5th July 2019
quotequote all
TwinKam said:
Yep it all pulls apart, but with extreme caution to support and load only in appropriate places, especially where the water impellers are concerned.
And then it all has to be pressed back together again.
I did mine myself, and despite having all the required tools/expertise, still had my heart in my mouth!
And yes, tab washer is easy enough to make if yours is beyond it, but try annealing it.
PAS is off..... the woodruff key although under 2 yrs old, was cut into. Easy fix.

Back to oil/water pump. How does it separate though? Do you press out the shaft....

I've got all the nuts and cap heads out and it's the units are loos but very aware of that water impeller. If you push the shaft you'll move the water impeller into the housing.

I imagine you separate the oil pump first?

notaping

270 posts

71 months

Friday 5th July 2019
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There's build manual for the entire pump train kicking around. Can't remember where I got it online, but I still have a local pdf - if it will help.

Byker28i

59,804 posts

217 months

Saturday 6th July 2019
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ukkid35 said:
What is the procedure for upgrading the shaft when doing a rebuild?

I think it was '99 on when upgraded shafts were used
Mine was done during the engine rebuild. £690 all in by Str8Six

Chimp871

Original Poster:

837 posts

117 months

Saturday 6th July 2019
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Thanks Byker. I thought I'd downloaded all the known cerbera files but this is a new one. Greatly appreciated

I'll have a go over the weekend.

I've found most of the parts, especially the ceramic seal/bearing, from previous posters. Seems like heat is your friend on removing the impellers.

Chimp871

Original Poster:

837 posts

117 months

Monday 8th July 2019
quotequote all
Rang Readman racing today, 400 for oil+pump refurbished. John's a decent guy.

Had another go tonight at separating the parts, because I like to know how things work/built. The rear shaft passing through the oil seal to pas pump needed to be pressed out using a decent bearing puller. Once that came out, so did the oil rotors, remove the oil pump woodruff key and then oil housing comes off.

The ceramic seal in the water housing was truly seated, but finally budged using a pilot bearing puller.

Before I can remove the impeller I've got to press out the shaft from the engine side. That should free the shaft.

I get why people pass on DIY repairs, but decent pullers and it's quite straightforward, but you do need decent bearing pullers. I was also making sure all the time that the water impeller was turning freely and not hitting the housing.

TwinKam

2,980 posts

95 months

Tuesday 9th July 2019
quotequote all
Chimp871 said:
Rang Readman racing today, 400 for oil+pump refurbished. John's a decent guy.

Had another go tonight at separating the parts, because I like to know how things work/built. The rear shaft passing through the oil seal to pas pump needed to be pressed out using a decent bearing puller. Once that came out, so did the oil rotors, remove the oil pump woodruff key and then oil housing comes off.

The ceramic seal in the water housing was truly seated, but finally budged using a pilot bearing puller.

Before I can remove the impeller I've got to press out the shaft from the engine side. That should free the shaft.

I get why people pass on DIY repairs, but decent pullers and it's quite straightforward, but you do need decent bearing pullers. I was also making sure all the time that the water impeller was turning freely and not hitting the housing.
thumbup It does all make sense when you see it apart rather than just pictures of someone else doing it.
PS I Have PM'd you twice now, Matt, is your PH email address correct? ...perhaps try PM'ing me as I know that works!

Chimp871

Original Poster:

837 posts

117 months

Tuesday 9th July 2019
quotequote all
Hmm, email is correct. Just sent you a message.

Rufus Roughcut

535 posts

175 months

Tuesday 9th July 2019
quotequote all
One of the reasons why I didn't tell you how I took mine apart is because there are 'many ways to Rome', I used a press and various sockets mixed with a few odds and sods.

I'm hoping the pics I posted gave you some idea of what to expect, I couldn't find any pics of the impellers when stripping mine, I really didn't know what to expect.

Just out of interest was the shaft corroded in the same place as mine?

Chimp871

Original Poster:

837 posts

117 months

Tuesday 9th July 2019
quotequote all
Rufus. It's is corroding in the same place ie where the impellers meet up.

I've not got the impellers off the shaft, I'm down to just the shaft and impellers and the housing in-between.

Heat and plus gas, soaking overnight. Then try pressing off tomorrow.

I suppose there's no other way then pressing on the shaft which means the impellers push against the housing? Can't see any other way.... But I get why you used a selection of tools.





Edited by Chimp871 on Tuesday 9th July 20:51