Timing cover bearings

[Chimp871]

So below are the list for all bearings in the timing cover and includes jackshaft bearing and the bearing that hold the oil/water shaft into engine block (behind the weird 4 corner bronze plate). They are all INA or SKF, quality bearings and same as original.

2 things to note.

1. The picture with the exposed cage and the one next to it, make sure they're all metal cage and not composite. You only want all metal components. I've marked them in * on the list, as at first they sent composite sealed bearings. The replacements didn't come with a new part number but is easily explained.
2. The picture that shows old and new. It's labelled 2RS and has a seal either side of the needle rollers. You can see how the old one has lost the seals and happily slides up and down.

Edited by Chimp871 on Wednesday 21st August 09:53

[ukkid35]

Superb, many thanks

I had to use a slide hammer type extractor to get the clutch pilot bearing out (not easy when it's grenaded)

Let us know what you use for the timing cover

[Chimp871]

For the timing cover I used a pilot bearing tool but had legs versus a slide hammer. Got it from Amazon

FreeTec 16 PC Piece Bearing Extractor Set Inner Internal Blind Remover Bushes Puller https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07G12Z1W8/ref=cm_sw_r...

[Bogsye]

Likewise - thanks for posting! I was working on my engine parts shopping list last night, comparing the different suppliers and coincidentally googling the needle bearings.
Thanks,
Brian

[Jhonno]

ukkid35 said:

Superb, many thanks

I had to use a slide hammer type extractor to get the clutch pilot bearing out (not easy when it's grenaded)

Let us know what you use for the timing cover

Bread for the small bearings.

I just hammered the crank bearings out of the cover.

[Chimp871]

Jhonno said:

Bread for the small bearings.

I just hammered the crank bearings out of the cover.

I had a 2 or 3mm gap on the front crank nose bearing, engine side where the oval hole is. When you replaced it did you push all the way in or keep the gap?

Edited by Chimp871 on Wednesday 21st August 09:55

[Chimp871]

Forgot to mention that the bad squeal noise I had from the timing cover was probably the jack shaft bearing (shaft supplies alternator pulley).

It was very rough when you turned it, it's meant to get an oil feed IIRC. It has a tough life - one side is the timing chain, the other is the alternator belt. The belt is on very tight so may put strain on the bearing.

[Rufus Roughcut]

That made me chuckle,Consistently inconsistent builds.

Here's how mine were fitted, large one pushed all the way in and the smaller one flush, leaving enough room behind for my pullers.

[Rufus Roughcut]

Both new bearings went in all the way.

I heated up the front cover and put the bearings in the freezer, they just 'plopped' in, no pressing required.

[Jhonno]

Chimp871 said:

Jhonno said:

Bread for the small bearings.

I just hammered the crank bearings out of the cover.

I had a 2 or 3mm gap on the front crank nose bearing, engine side where the oval hole is. When you replaced it did you push all the way in or keep the gap?

Edited by Chimp871 on Wednesday 21st August 09:55

I went all the way, that is where they were originally.

[Chimp871]

Rufus Roughcut said:

Both new bearings went in all the way.

I heated up the front cover and put the bearings in the freezer, they just 'plopped' in, no pressing required.

Haha...... at first I thought you’d made a jig! Then the brain kicked in and finally saw a hob! Brilliant.

[Rufus Roughcut]

Chimp871 said:

Haha...... at first I thought you’d made a jig! Then the brain kicked in and finally saw a hob! Brilliant.

I was curing the freshly painted cover, 160C for 30mins (Cover wouldn't fit in the oven) when I thought you know what I'll pop the bearings in before it cools.