AJP8 4.5 not running well
Discussion
Hi folks,
my body-off is coming to an end and I restarted the engine after 2 years off. Now I have some issues with my engine.
There wasn't much done with the engine while it was out: the pumps incl. the auxilliary shaft were refurbished, the chain timing was set, the valve clearance was set and the first camshaft bearing had to be renewed. I think that was all what they did.
Before the body-off the engine was running well so far (at least with no visible issues) but the valve clearance for example was horrible.
After re-mounting the engine I set the TPs and the software shows the correct values. I can start the engine w/o any problems, it seems to run OK and there are no misfires.
But I have the following issues:
- After cold start the even (right) side is smoking a lot, the odd (left) side not. "A lot" means it's getting foggy in my garage very quickly when the gate is closed.
- After warm-up (10-15min) the right side is hot on the tailpipe, the left side not (just warm). The smoke is disappeared.
- AFR alarm on both sides after short time period. Can reset but it takes just it's coming back soon.
I checked the spark plugs today:
- Left side: 1 is black, 3,5,7 are clean
- Right side: 2 is clean, 4,6,8 are black
Connection of the leads is like this:
Ignition Leads
As far as I know the connecting order is the same on 4.2 and 4.5, right?
What I haven't done yet:
- One of the Lambda sensors shows always 0V, the other one is moving. But this shouldn't be an issue for cold start.
- Nothing done with the ignition moduls, re-used the old ones.
What else can I do/check?
Kind regards from Germany and many thanks in advance
Michael
my body-off is coming to an end and I restarted the engine after 2 years off. Now I have some issues with my engine.
There wasn't much done with the engine while it was out: the pumps incl. the auxilliary shaft were refurbished, the chain timing was set, the valve clearance was set and the first camshaft bearing had to be renewed. I think that was all what they did.
Before the body-off the engine was running well so far (at least with no visible issues) but the valve clearance for example was horrible.
After re-mounting the engine I set the TPs and the software shows the correct values. I can start the engine w/o any problems, it seems to run OK and there are no misfires.
But I have the following issues:
- After cold start the even (right) side is smoking a lot, the odd (left) side not. "A lot" means it's getting foggy in my garage very quickly when the gate is closed.
- After warm-up (10-15min) the right side is hot on the tailpipe, the left side not (just warm). The smoke is disappeared.
- AFR alarm on both sides after short time period. Can reset but it takes just it's coming back soon.
I checked the spark plugs today:
- Left side: 1 is black, 3,5,7 are clean
- Right side: 2 is clean, 4,6,8 are black
Connection of the leads is like this:
Ignition Leads
As far as I know the connecting order is the same on 4.2 and 4.5, right?
What I haven't done yet:
- One of the Lambda sensors shows always 0V, the other one is moving. But this shouldn't be an issue for cold start.
- Nothing done with the ignition moduls, re-used the old ones.
What else can I do/check?
Kind regards from Germany and many thanks in advance
Michael
GermanCerb said:
the first camshaft bearing had to be renewed. I think that was all what they did.
I wonder what that meansIf it has now stopped smoking then there was just some residual oil left in the smoky bank
If it is still smoking, then that is not good, and is probably the most serious issue
The injector connections on 1 and 2 could have been swapped
If one lambda is faulty that could contribute to the soot on one bank
A really crude way to check whether a cylinder is running is to disconnect the injector connection while running
Using that method I found an injector wiring problem, and on another occasion a coil pack fault
Guten Tag Michael !
Ich bin Paul und ich lebe in Luxembourg
(I have now exhausted all my German vocabulary).
If someone else did the body off then I would:
1) Zeroise the adaptives on the ECU
2) Follow the cabling on the Lanbdas and ensure that the cabling is connected to the correct side
3) As with disconnecting injector connections (detailed above) you could test the temperature of each cylinder's manifold to ensure an even warming during the first few minutes.
4) I would swap the HT cables and plugs from side to side to see if the problem is transferred.
If it is not then I would swap the coilpacks to check the same possibilty.
Sorry, as everyone knows, Ich bin ein Dumkopf but Cerbs are not Rocket Surgery so logical steps usually find the problem
Viel Gluck
Ich bin Paul und ich lebe in Luxembourg
(I have now exhausted all my German vocabulary).
If someone else did the body off then I would:
1) Zeroise the adaptives on the ECU
2) Follow the cabling on the Lanbdas and ensure that the cabling is connected to the correct side
3) As with disconnecting injector connections (detailed above) you could test the temperature of each cylinder's manifold to ensure an even warming during the first few minutes.
4) I would swap the HT cables and plugs from side to side to see if the problem is transferred.
If it is not then I would swap the coilpacks to check the same possibilty.
Sorry, as everyone knows, Ich bin ein Dumkopf but Cerbs are not Rocket Surgery so logical steps usually find the problem
Viel Gluck
Edited by Mr Cerbera on Sunday 8th December 09:31
Checked the injectors: According to the labels all connections are correct. So it's not that easy... 
Yes, of course - I have EvoOllis software running but I have to startup the engine again to see what the Adaptives are really doing. As far as I remember they weren't that bad but I don't know exactly.
Reg. the Lambdas: They are just labeled with 1 and 2. I guess 1 is for left (odd) and 2 is for right (even). Correct? And yes, I will check also the connectors again.
I also ordered now new spark plugs and new coil packs. The spark plugs doesn't look good anymore (the black ones at least) and the coil packs are not that expensive so I'll change them as a preventive measure.
I'll come back to you later with some more information.
Cheers
Michael
Yes, of course - I have EvoOllis software running but I have to startup the engine again to see what the Adaptives are really doing. As far as I remember they weren't that bad but I don't know exactly.
Reg. the Lambdas: They are just labeled with 1 and 2. I guess 1 is for left (odd) and 2 is for right (even). Correct? And yes, I will check also the connectors again.
I also ordered now new spark plugs and new coil packs. The spark plugs doesn't look good anymore (the black ones at least) and the coil packs are not that expensive so I'll change them as a preventive measure.
I'll come back to you later with some more information.
Cheers
Michael
GermanCerb said:
Checked the injectors: According to the labels all connections are correct. So it's not that easy...
Ignore the labelsThe loom is split in to two parts, one section is for one bank and the other section is for the other
This includes the feed to the coil packs (as I found out the hard way some years ago), the throttle pots connections, as well as the injectors
Found something but not sure what it means:
https://youtu.be/0dbbdBtkvAM
Spark plugs still removed, just ran the engine with the starter. As you can see there's some gasoline spray coming out of cyl. 1, 4, 6 and 8 - exactly the ones where the spark plugs were black.
What could it mean? Broken injectors?
Cheers
Michael
https://youtu.be/0dbbdBtkvAM
Spark plugs still removed, just ran the engine with the starter. As you can see there's some gasoline spray coming out of cyl. 1, 4, 6 and 8 - exactly the ones where the spark plugs were black.
What could it mean? Broken injectors?
Cheers
Michael
Can't really tell from that video. What do the injectors spray patterns look like? If its been sitting for 2 years chances are the injectors are gummed up, and instead of a nice V shaped mist you have a stream. They could even be sticking open. I usually use the 9 volt battery and electrical contact cleaner DIY method of cleaning, and I haven't set fire to myself yet.
It is worth running the engine with the tubes removed so you can see the spray pattern before it bounces off the butterflies
You can then at least see whether there are gross differences in the flow
Also worth getting them flow tested and cleaned
Finally, I would recommend fitting them rotated by 180deg as this should reduce stress on the wiring
Make sure you have plentiful supply of seals before removing them
You can then at least see whether there are gross differences in the flow
Also worth getting them flow tested and cleaned
Finally, I would recommend fitting them rotated by 180deg as this should reduce stress on the wiring
Make sure you have plentiful supply of seals before removing them
GermanCerb said:
One of the Lambda sensors shows always 0V, the other one is moving. But this shouldn't be an issue for cold start.
From my distant memory of trying to set my Cerbera up after being off road a while......On cold start it ignores the Lambda and uses a set fueling map. Right?
So if the running improves once its warm, thus starts using the Lamba to correct thre fueling. Then would that not mean that on the cold start map is it overfueling loads? But even with the Lambda it still cant bring it back enough.....
Injector stuck open?
Injector wiring problem?
GermanCerb said:
Found something but not sure what it means:
https://youtu.be/0dbbdBtkvAM
Spark plugs still removed, just ran the engine with the starter. As you can see there's some gasoline spray coming out of cyl. 1, 4, 6 and 8 - exactly the ones where the spark plugs were black.
What could it mean? Broken injectors?
Cheers
Michael
Should obviously be coming out of all injectors or none. Worth checking the injector wiring but really as others have said the injectors themselves need removing and testing. Depending on when/if the other injectors start working the lambda sensors will have seen a lean condition as injectors 2,3,5,7 aren't working and increased the adaptives, causing much more fuel to be pumped out of 1,4,6,8 when then makes those cylinders overly rich.https://youtu.be/0dbbdBtkvAM
Spark plugs still removed, just ran the engine with the starter. As you can see there's some gasoline spray coming out of cyl. 1, 4, 6 and 8 - exactly the ones where the spark plugs were black.
What could it mean? Broken injectors?
Cheers
Michael
OK but don't you think there's too much coming out of 1, 4, 6 and 8? I just turned the starter and immediatly there's coming so much fuel out of them.
Anyway - as soon as I'll have time I'll cross-check the injectors. And I have to talk to the guys who should have cleaned and tested the injectors.
Keep you updated
Michael
Anyway - as soon as I'll have time I'll cross-check the injectors. And I have to talk to the guys who should have cleaned and tested the injectors.
Keep you updated
Michael
GermanCerb said:
Yes, that's for sure. Because of the very black spark plugs I just thought that 1, 4, 6 and 8 are far too much and the others are correct. But of course it might be opposite.
Cheers
Michael
Hadn't thought of that, eiter way, get the injectors removed, flow tested and cleaned. Then any difference in spray volume you see on the car is going to be as a result of wiring or ECU.Cheers
Michael
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