Elementary, my Dear Whatswrong !
Discussion
Dear Team,
I have reached an impasse in my 100K Service.
For those of you who haven't been bored by my incessant drivellings over the last 2 years...
In June '18 I had an accident. It was just bodywork BUT the insurance failed to cover it.
So I was looking at having to save £6K for the work and a re-spray.
Within a few weeks my Alternator charging light came on and, although most Peeps suggested the Big Fuse,
it turned out to be a shreaded Drive Belt.
As I was going to have to wait some considerable time for the Paintwork Account to fill, I thought
I'd have a crack at the Alternator Belt and "a couple of other things" which I'd been putting off.
Worn Steering UJ's
Re-routing the Steering Wheel Cables
Replacement of Oil Pressure Spring and Installation of Oil Temp Guage
Renew Ignition and Lambdas
Replaced the Throttle Cable (again)
Replaced the front Drop Links
and had the ProTechs serviced !
So, after all that I came to reconnect the Battery tonight.
I had been hand-cranking (Oooerrr Mrs !) the motor every couple of weeks to keep the blood pumping
BUT I to wanted to crank the motor without plugs to fully pressurise the system before letting her rip
so I removed the Fuel Pump Relay so she wouldn't drown.
AND HERE WE ARE
Put the Battery in and, mercifully, the alarm didn't go off, which it usually does when I reconnect on 1st attempt.
She put herself into lock. One press on the remote and she opened beautifully.....
I then did a couple of off/on tests and there was an audible beep from the Instrument Console when she locked....
I hadn't heard this before so was worried....
I then noticed that the "Lock all Doors" light was flashing with the Alarm both on and off....
I went and firmly closed both doors and the boot - they had all been ajar....
I refitted the Fuel Pump Relay in panic...
Next attempt
Car locked and both windows closed.
Blinking Door Lock Light had stopped.
The beep had stopped.
None of the Steering Wheel or Indicator functions worked
BUT the interior and exterior lights worked
(all apart from one, front sidelight)
So I summoned up all my courage and tried the ignition....
No Fuel Pump
No Starter
Soooooo, my little Sherlocks,
I don't expect anyone to suggest a resolution
BUT
I throw myself upon your conglomerate mercies and ask for your opinions for a path of action...
If you've made it this far, I already owe you a drink
Thanks for any, and all, advices (as they say in French)
Ta !
PJ
I have reached an impasse in my 100K Service.
For those of you who haven't been bored by my incessant drivellings over the last 2 years...
In June '18 I had an accident. It was just bodywork BUT the insurance failed to cover it.
So I was looking at having to save £6K for the work and a re-spray.
Within a few weeks my Alternator charging light came on and, although most Peeps suggested the Big Fuse,
it turned out to be a shreaded Drive Belt.
As I was going to have to wait some considerable time for the Paintwork Account to fill, I thought
I'd have a crack at the Alternator Belt and "a couple of other things" which I'd been putting off.
Worn Steering UJ's
Re-routing the Steering Wheel Cables
Replacement of Oil Pressure Spring and Installation of Oil Temp Guage
Renew Ignition and Lambdas
Replaced the Throttle Cable (again)
Replaced the front Drop Links
and had the ProTechs serviced !
So, after all that I came to reconnect the Battery tonight.
I had been hand-cranking (Oooerrr Mrs !) the motor every couple of weeks to keep the blood pumping
BUT I to wanted to crank the motor without plugs to fully pressurise the system before letting her rip
so I removed the Fuel Pump Relay so she wouldn't drown.
AND HERE WE ARE
Put the Battery in and, mercifully, the alarm didn't go off, which it usually does when I reconnect on 1st attempt.
She put herself into lock. One press on the remote and she opened beautifully.....
I then did a couple of off/on tests and there was an audible beep from the Instrument Console when she locked....
I hadn't heard this before so was worried....
I then noticed that the "Lock all Doors" light was flashing with the Alarm both on and off....
I went and firmly closed both doors and the boot - they had all been ajar....
I refitted the Fuel Pump Relay in panic...
Next attempt
Car locked and both windows closed.
Blinking Door Lock Light had stopped.
The beep had stopped.
None of the Steering Wheel or Indicator functions worked
BUT the interior and exterior lights worked
(all apart from one, front sidelight)
So I summoned up all my courage and tried the ignition....
No Fuel Pump
No Starter
Soooooo, my little Sherlocks,
I don't expect anyone to suggest a resolution
BUT
I throw myself upon your conglomerate mercies and ask for your opinions for a path of action...
If you've made it this far, I already owe you a drink
Thanks for any, and all, advices (as they say in French)
Ta !
PJ
Hi Rog,
Thanks for commenting but, as you know, I'm a Dullo.
I thought the button on the Fob turned the ignition on and off and vice-versa for the immobiliser.
Shirley, if I press the Fob button with the ignition on, all you would expect is for the ignition to switch off and the immbiliser to kick in ??
I'll try it again, of course - just to measure how Dull I am, so Ta !
Hi Jules and Thanks,
Again, I am Mr. Dullo, but
"Normally when a car's been off the road you just re-connect the battery, the alarm arms, you dis-arm on the fob and everything just works as it should."
Wasn't this just what I did
OR
Do you mean that, given that I have had little success, I should repeat the process of disconnecting and reconnecting the battery ?
Ta too !
Hi Dave,
Thanks as well, your suggestion is highly likely, given that all the ribbon cables fell off when I was putting the wiring in for the Oil Temp Guage
BUT
I tried to follow your posts on the gcpeters post that you recommended on this thread but wasn't aware that any of them had rotated through 180° when changing their respective levels.
I guess you don't have the ability to have a quick check underneath your wheel to see which ones do, do you ?
Ta ³
to all 
Thanks for commenting but, as you know, I'm a Dullo.
I thought the button on the Fob turned the ignition on and off and vice-versa for the immobiliser.
Shirley, if I press the Fob button with the ignition on, all you would expect is for the ignition to switch off and the immbiliser to kick in ??
I'll try it again, of course - just to measure how Dull I am, so Ta !
Hi Jules and Thanks,
Again, I am Mr. Dullo, but
"Normally when a car's been off the road you just re-connect the battery, the alarm arms, you dis-arm on the fob and everything just works as it should."
Wasn't this just what I did
OR
Do you mean that, given that I have had little success, I should repeat the process of disconnecting and reconnecting the battery ?
Ta too !
Hi Dave,
Thanks as well, your suggestion is highly likely, given that all the ribbon cables fell off when I was putting the wiring in for the Oil Temp Guage
BUT
I tried to follow your posts on the gcpeters post that you recommended on this thread but wasn't aware
that any of them had rotated through 180° when changing their respective levels.I guess you don't have the ability to have a quick check underneath your wheel to see which ones do, do you ?
Ta ³
to all Edited by Mr Cerbera on Tuesday 8th September 13:22
Hi Paul
Just to be clear, the starting sequence is (in case you’ve forgotten
)
Initial state: red light near immobiliser key slot flashing.
Press black button: dash lights (and stereo) come on. Red light near immobiliser slot continues to flash.
Press key fob button or insert immobiliser key: Red light stops flashing and lights steady, continuous tone from the dash, fuel pump primes.
Then you can press and hold the black button to start.
The immobiliser stays disabled for a short time after unlocking, so if you unlock, jump in and press the black button quickly enough you don’t need to use the fob again to start.
Just to be clear, the starting sequence is (in case you’ve forgotten
)Initial state: red light near immobiliser key slot flashing.
Press black button: dash lights (and stereo) come on. Red light near immobiliser slot continues to flash.
Press key fob button or insert immobiliser key: Red light stops flashing and lights steady, continuous tone from the dash, fuel pump primes.
Then you can press and hold the black button to start.
The immobiliser stays disabled for a short time after unlocking, so if you unlock, jump in and press the black button quickly enough you don’t need to use the fob again to start.
Edited by FarmyardPants on Tuesday 8th September 13:44
Mr Cerbera said:
Hi Jules and Thanks,
Again, I am Mr. Dullo, but
"Normally when a car's been off the road you just re-connect the battery, the alarm arms, you dis-arm on the fob and everything just works as it should."
Wasn't this just what I did
OR
Do you mean that, given that I have had little success, I should repeat the process of disconnecting and reconnecting the battery ?
Ta too !
Yes but you also said you had switched on and off with the buttons several times, I was suggesting you disconnect the battery to undo any knickers-in-a-twist the control boxes had got in to, so effectively resetting you back to square one.Again, I am Mr. Dullo, but
"Normally when a car's been off the road you just re-connect the battery, the alarm arms, you dis-arm on the fob and everything just works as it should."
Wasn't this just what I did
OR
Do you mean that, given that I have had little success, I should repeat the process of disconnecting and reconnecting the battery ?
Ta too !
Steering ribbon - I made the same mistake so mine are all marked up with arrows now. I used a multimeter to work out what did what plus jumpered across the pins to see what went. The horn is a good one to use 
http://tvr-cerbera.co.uk/WorkshopWiringDiagrams/St...
http://tvr-cerbera.co.uk/WorkshopWiringDiagrams/St...
Hi Team,
another addition from me...
Firstly, big thanks to Dave for the Steering Ribbon hint
I have attempted to pursue this avenue with loads of fails but am going in the right direction (I hope
)
I attempted to put the two 10-line Ribbons onto the two options available but had no success.
I was doing all these fumlings in the footwell and had no real confirmation that the pins on the PCB were being correctly located sooooo, after some manipulative magic, I managed to take photos of the Ribbons in place and Voila !
I tried to bend them back into place but to no avail so I decided to make the big decision and unscrew the 2 x M3 screws which locate the PCB and remove it.
What a Reveal that turned out to be coz the next connection for the Ribbons is printed on the board...
|
So here it comes peeps....
The two words, as you can see, are
A - WIHEEL and
B - ECU.
The two destinations are
1) The Steering Wheel Functions Control Unit
2) The Steering Wheel Dashboard (Start/Stop/Clock/Fuel)
Now, at first, I thought A would be linked to 1) and B would be linked to 2)
However I am pretty sure that I made this set-up without a good result
so I re-thought that 1) has an ECU in it and that perhaps that must be the link that should be made to B.
This would leave 2) linked to A.
Given that, in order to complete a full test, each of these connections should be made AND that each link would have to be tried in a 180 Deg configuration, I wondered if anyone had some definitive suggestions before I break every pin under the column ?
TVM
PJ
another addition from me...
Firstly, big thanks to Dave for the Steering Ribbon hint
I have attempted to pursue this avenue with loads of fails but am going in the right direction (I hope
)I attempted to put the two 10-line Ribbons onto the two options available but had no success.
I was doing all these fumlings in the footwell and had no real confirmation that the pins on the PCB were being correctly located sooooo, after some manipulative magic, I managed to take photos of the Ribbons in place and Voila !
I tried to bend them back into place but to no avail so I decided to make the big decision and unscrew the 2 x M3 screws which locate the PCB and remove it.
What a Reveal that turned out to be coz the next connection for the Ribbons is printed on the board...
|So here it comes peeps....
The two words, as you can see, are
A - WIHEEL and
B - ECU.
The two destinations are
1) The Steering Wheel Functions Control Unit
2) The Steering Wheel Dashboard (Start/Stop/Clock/Fuel)
Now, at first, I thought A would be linked to 1) and B would be linked to 2)
However I am pretty sure that I made this set-up without a good result
so I re-thought that 1) has an ECU in it and that perhaps that must be the link that should be made to B.
This would leave 2) linked to A.
Given that, in order to complete a full test, each of these connections should be made AND that each link would have to be tried in a 180 Deg configuration, I wondered if anyone had some definitive suggestions before I break every pin under the column ?
TVM
PJ
Hi Russ,
Thanks for putting your head up.
The short answer is No.
Both receiving pinblocks are hidden either behind bodywork or within their own case
BUT
Seeing as you're here, and are an electrical genius, can you explain what the circuit designers mean in the Diag below.
I am hopeless with Circuit Diags so any info is better than my current understanding
They have a 12-wire interface (in the top, left of the Diag, marked as "MAIN-1" ) with the rest of the loom - whereas there is only a 10-pin plug.
Ta !
Mr. Confused
Thanks for putting your head up.
The short answer is No.
Both receiving pinblocks are hidden either behind bodywork or within their own case
BUT
Seeing as you're here, and are an electrical genius, can you explain what the circuit designers mean in the Diag below.
I am hopeless with Circuit Diags so any info is better than my current understanding
They have a 12-wire interface (in the top, left of the Diag, marked as "MAIN-1" ) with the rest of the loom - whereas there is only a 10-pin plug.
Ta !
Mr. Confused
I haven’t a clue
Start stop buttons appear to be switched negatives. But other than that, it looks like they’ve used a 12 pin pcb, a 10 pin/wire ribbon, and only used 7 wires of that 10 wire ribbon.
Not a lot of help to ya.
I should get my wheels back from a refurb next week, so I’ll get them on, get the car out of the garage and have a look at my set up. Hopefully get you still me more info next weekend, if you haven’t already solved it.
Start stop buttons appear to be switched negatives. But other than that, it looks like they’ve used a 12 pin pcb, a 10 pin/wire ribbon, and only used 7 wires of that 10 wire ribbon.
Not a lot of help to ya.
I should get my wheels back from a refurb next week, so I’ll get them on, get the car out of the garage and have a look at my set up. Hopefully get you still me more info next weekend, if you haven’t already solved it.
You need this diagram
http://tvr-cerbera.co.uk/WorkshopWiringDiagrams/St...
Then with a multimeter and a helper press the steering wheel buttons and it helps you find out which is pin 1, i.e. which way around the ribbon cables go. Once you've done that, mark the ribbon cable with a permanent pen
http://tvr-cerbera.co.uk/WorkshopWiringDiagrams/St...
Then with a multimeter and a helper press the steering wheel buttons and it helps you find out which is pin 1, i.e. which way around the ribbon cables go. Once you've done that, mark the ribbon cable with a permanent pen
Mr Cerbera said:
There is nothing I value more than honesty - So Ta for that - DOH ! 
OK, I'll crash around trying not to break too much
(but now that you've brought it up, I am looking at getting my wheels refurbed as well.
Can you give me a clue as to the current market charges ? Ta ! [again] )
£45 for a 16”wheel in Brum, from Speedwell’s ... https://www.speedwells.co.uk/OK, I'll crash around trying not to break too much
(but now that you've brought it up, I am looking at getting my wheels refurbed as well.
Can you give me a clue as to the current market charges ? Ta ! [again] )
I presume that price includes them removing the tyre, refitting and balancing
... but I’ll let you know if it’s anymore than that.Gassing Station | Cerbera | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff