Door Solenoid burnt Door/Window ECU?
Discussion
the door opening did not work properly since a few weeks. most times i had to use the secret entry cable.
yesterday i thought : why not trying the passenger side and see what happens:
window lowered, door popped open...so all looked fine
but when i closed the passenger door it did not "lock" inside the latch.
latching it with a screw driver doesn't get it to "lock-position"
each time i pushed the release button on the mirror you could here relais clicking in the boot.
i opened the boot to give the Window/door ECU a reset by disconneting the power-connector.
unfotunately there was a burning smell comming out this ECU...one of the condensators has burnt.
the probem with the latch could be mechanical....but why the ECU burnt or lets ask differtn: why a mechancal and an electrical problem are happening in the same time?
yesterday i thought : why not trying the passenger side and see what happens:
window lowered, door popped open...so all looked fine
but when i closed the passenger door it did not "lock" inside the latch.
latching it with a screw driver doesn't get it to "lock-position"
each time i pushed the release button on the mirror you could here relais clicking in the boot.
i opened the boot to give the Window/door ECU a reset by disconneting the power-connector.
unfotunately there was a burning smell comming out this ECU...one of the condensators has burnt.
the probem with the latch could be mechanical....but why the ECU burnt or lets ask differtn: why a mechancal and an electrical problem are happening in the same time?
my ecu is on the way back from repair....it was definately burnt (damaged). the repair-shop highligted that i MUST check the passenger side door-solenoid, as this looks to be resonsible for the burnt ECU.
TVR has not built-in any safety for the ECU , in case the solenoid goes on overload.
TVR has not built-in any safety for the ECU , in case the solenoid goes on overload.
new door solednoid fittted (the old one was definately damaged), parallel to that i sent the ECU to a UK-Specialist for repair.
they said it has been tested after repair and was declared as "ok".
now with a new passenger -solenoid, a repaied and tested ECU i was quite optimisitc that i finally can enjoy the car, now.
but no....: when i connected the ECU the first time, nothing happened...ususually you here some clicking and the ECU checks the status of the doors etc. (at least it has done this before it was damaged)
but nothing.....the doors cannot be opened, the windows cannot be moved, even not manually from the buttons in the centre console.
when me and my mate stood in front of the car , headscratching and discussing what could be the cause or if we may have done something wrong, out of a sudden the ECU developped (just for a few seconds) a low frequency buzzing noise....also some clicking of the internal relais could be heard....but thats it....still nothing works.
i interuppted multiple time the power-supply to the ECU...just to see if it may re-initialize....but nothing changed.
i´m now totally lost. for me its sure that the doors/window ECU has still a defect....
they said it has been tested after repair and was declared as "ok".
now with a new passenger -solenoid, a repaied and tested ECU i was quite optimisitc that i finally can enjoy the car, now.
but no....: when i connected the ECU the first time, nothing happened...ususually you here some clicking and the ECU checks the status of the doors etc. (at least it has done this before it was damaged)
but nothing.....the doors cannot be opened, the windows cannot be moved, even not manually from the buttons in the centre console.
when me and my mate stood in front of the car , headscratching and discussing what could be the cause or if we may have done something wrong, out of a sudden the ECU developped (just for a few seconds) a low frequency buzzing noise....also some clicking of the internal relais could be heard....but thats it....still nothing works.
i interuppted multiple time the power-supply to the ECU...just to see if it may re-initialize....but nothing changed.
i´m now totally lost. for me its sure that the doors/window ECU has still a defect....
Edited by LLantrisant on Monday 9th May 11:42
LLantrisant said:
i´m now totally lost. for me its sure that the doors/window ECU has still a defect....
Unless you've tested every component, cable, positive supply and negative return that are connected to the ECU, it is a touch off to comment that the ECU still has a defectYes the ECU may now have a defect
There is as much chance that the ECU had been correctly repaired and tested before it was returned to you and has now failed since connecting it to the vehicle
Everything is up in the air until all circuits have been proven to be functioning correctly, the current draw of each component needs to be proven to be within specification
The above has always been the case when working with ECUs of any kind
Edited by Polly Grigora on Monday 9th May 16:02
look...the ECU worked reasosnably until a damaged door-solenoid burnt the ECU.
the solenoid was replaced and for safety reasons the ECU was only re-connected, without the new door solenoid electrically connected. only later the solenoid was connected as well.
means the ECU was connected to a car which status was considered to be ok before (door switches, window position switches etc.)
i know what you mean with testing all circuits, but why should i test everthing and suddently pressume that all parts might be faulty, when the orignal cause was "only" a faulty solenoid?
i mean if for every little elelctric-problem on the car, i need to test always the complete car, i will never come to an end.....
the solenoid was replaced and for safety reasons the ECU was only re-connected, without the new door solenoid electrically connected. only later the solenoid was connected as well.
means the ECU was connected to a car which status was considered to be ok before (door switches, window position switches etc.)
i know what you mean with testing all circuits, but why should i test everthing and suddently pressume that all parts might be faulty, when the orignal cause was "only" a faulty solenoid?
i mean if for every little elelctric-problem on the car, i need to test always the complete car, i will never come to an end.....
Edited by LLantrisant on Monday 9th May 18:34
Byker28i said:
Here's a weird one.
My car was at Str8Six went for the MOT and the Door ECU box failed, no doors would open, windows wouldn't wind. Luckily they had a spare whilst mine goes off for repair, but I've noticed my windows are now winding up and down much quicker...
In a old thread about Cebera upgrades the swap from old to new style door seals was mentioned. I'm sure Jools said there was an updated control box chip/programme which gave more power to the window motors to deal with the thicker seals. If you're one of the people with the technical ability getting a copy of that later programme might be worthwhile. Sadly I'm nowhere near the ability to do that.My car was at Str8Six went for the MOT and the Door ECU box failed, no doors would open, windows wouldn't wind. Luckily they had a spare whilst mine goes off for repair, but I've noticed my windows are now winding up and down much quicker...
LLantrisant said:
i know what you mean with testing all circuits, but why should i test everthing and suddently pressume that all parts might be faulty, when the orignal cause was "only" a faulty solenoid?
To be 100% sureI appreciate that this makes the job much more time consuming and that there's a slim chance of another fault raising its ugly head after the ECU was removed but........
Anyway, it was an observation, until everything is proven to be good who knows......
CerbWill said:
Byker28i said:
Here's a weird one.
My car was at Str8Six went for the MOT and the Door ECU box failed, no doors would open, windows wouldn't wind. Luckily they had a spare whilst mine goes off for repair, but I've noticed my windows are now winding up and down much quicker...
In a old thread about Cebera upgrades the swap from old to new style door seals was mentioned. I'm sure Jools said there was an updated control box chip/programme which gave more power to the window motors to deal with the thicker seals. If you're one of the people with the technical ability getting a copy of that later programme might be worthwhile. Sadly I'm nowhere near the ability to do that.My car was at Str8Six went for the MOT and the Door ECU box failed, no doors would open, windows wouldn't wind. Luckily they had a spare whilst mine goes off for repair, but I've noticed my windows are now winding up and down much quicker...
Byker28i said:
Well remembered - I sort of remember that now. I'll hunt that out...
If you have the ability I'd be interested in an updated chip. My Cerb is a 1996 car and I've updated the door seals. Window speed is slow and the driver's window doesn't go all the way back up when the door is shut. I have to lock it and then the window winds all the way up when the car checks the windows are fully shut. I've cleaned connectors motors, runners, replaced felt etc. Just not enough go from the control box/current wiring. Was planning to do the relay mod but if chip replacement can be done I'd try that first.From my experience, I'd recommend seeing if the old harness can take the load first.
At the door module, find the two wires going to the window, grab a battery, and send 12 volts down the wires. Reverse them to go the other direction.
If the glass flies up, then at least you've proved the wires are good.
TVR haven't didn't use any weatherproof connectors in the doors, so that doesn't help. Plus my cabin harness is over 25 years old
At the door module, find the two wires going to the window, grab a battery, and send 12 volts down the wires. Reverse them to go the other direction.
If the glass flies up, then at least you've proved the wires are good.
TVR haven't didn't use any weatherproof connectors in the doors, so that doesn't help. Plus my cabin harness is over 25 years old
CerbWill said:
Byker28i said:
Well remembered - I sort of remember that now. I'll hunt that out...
If you have the ability I'd be interested in an updated chip. My Cerb is a 1996 car and I've updated the door seals. Window speed is slow and the driver's window doesn't go all the way back up when the door is shut. I have to lock it and then the window winds all the way up when the car checks the windows are fully shut. I've cleaned connectors motors, runners, replaced felt etc. Just not enough go from the control box/current wiring. Was planning to do the relay mod but if chip replacement can be done I'd try that first.Slow windows was why I have always cleaned the pins in the door plugs. I've also resolved issues with positioning by winding them all the way up then unplugging, waiting then reconnecting the control box
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