Brake bleed nipples
Discussion
So, a follow up.
Thanks to Julian's help we removed the old bleed screws that were intact using his heat and freeze method, and yes it works a treat. Wish I'd tried that before breaking three of the buggers!
Here's a pic of a very rusty bleed screw:
We're guessing that it's got that much rust due to brake fluid being hydrascopic and therefore holding water. We may be wrong but I couldn't see any other explanation.
It was my intention to helicoil the holes, but Julian did such a good job of drilling them that I don't think I'm going to need to.
I have ordered a seal kit, new bleed screws and fluid from AP racing so hopefully it'll all go back together early next week.
I have ordered new bleed screws as I had purchased some stainless ones, but they turned out to be completely wrong. A lesson there for everyone, even though the thread was correct (M10 x 1) the screw was too short, and the vital angle at the base was wrong so it wouldn't have sat flush with the internal face of the hole in the caliper. So, if you buy new bleed screws, check them against the old ones, carefully!
More picies here: http://tvrcerbera.co.uk/Gallery/thumbnails.php?alb...
Tim
Thanks to Julian's help we removed the old bleed screws that were intact using his heat and freeze method, and yes it works a treat. Wish I'd tried that before breaking three of the buggers!
Here's a pic of a very rusty bleed screw:
We're guessing that it's got that much rust due to brake fluid being hydrascopic and therefore holding water. We may be wrong but I couldn't see any other explanation.
It was my intention to helicoil the holes, but Julian did such a good job of drilling them that I don't think I'm going to need to.
I have ordered a seal kit, new bleed screws and fluid from AP racing so hopefully it'll all go back together early next week.
I have ordered new bleed screws as I had purchased some stainless ones, but they turned out to be completely wrong. A lesson there for everyone, even though the thread was correct (M10 x 1) the screw was too short, and the vital angle at the base was wrong so it wouldn't have sat flush with the internal face of the hole in the caliper. So, if you buy new bleed screws, check them against the old ones, carefully!
More picies here: http://tvrcerbera.co.uk/Gallery/thumbnails.php?alb...
Tim
Edited by TT Tim on Friday 22 February 13:32
I think Trackcar must have worked his magic on my callipers when he fitted stainless hoses a couple of years ago. The bleed nipples loosened without any drama at all. Although having seen the state of yours Tim I'm going to remove them and check their condition. They are seriously rusty 
Not painting them Julian, have given them a quick blow over with spirit resisting lacquer.
I meant a 2nd tap, so, as you recommended a blind tap.
Easy to get them that clean, you've no excuse you've got the glass beads and the cabinet.
One thread 'rocks' slightly but does tighten up, my only worry is when bleeding them, but we'll see.
Thanks again
Tim
I meant a 2nd tap, so, as you recommended a blind tap.
Easy to get them that clean, you've no excuse you've got the glass beads and the cabinet.
One thread 'rocks' slightly but does tighten up, my only worry is when bleeding them, but we'll see.
Thanks again
Tim
Tim, calipers look lovely 
Was Detox C all that you used? Did you have to scrub them after soaking them in D C?
I used some on the manifold bolts overnight, and checked them this morning. They look ok but nothing spectacular. I used the 1:19 part strength. So left them in there all day. Got back and not alot of difference. So trying the 1:4 ratio now to see the results in the morning.
Keep up the good work
Cad
Was Detox C all that you used? Did you have to scrub them after soaking them in D C?
I used some on the manifold bolts overnight, and checked them this morning. They look ok but nothing spectacular. I used the 1:19 part strength. So left them in there all day. Got back and not alot of difference. So trying the 1:4 ratio now to see the results in the morning.
Keep up the good work
Cad
No, these were cleaned with glass beads in my blast cabinet.
No point using Deox C on the calipers, in fact you shouldn't, as they are alloy and Deox C only works on ferrous metals.
I was very impressed with the results I've had from Deox C, but tbh most of the bits I've cleaned have been blasted.
Tim
No point using Deox C on the calipers, in fact you shouldn't, as they are alloy and Deox C only works on ferrous metals.
I was very impressed with the results I've had from Deox C, but tbh most of the bits I've cleaned have been blasted.
Tim
caduceus said:
Was the blast cabinet expensive?
Where's the best place to get them? Machine Mart?
Cheers
Funnily enough I was chatting to a friend today about blast cabinets...Where's the best place to get them? Machine Mart?
Cheers
I use a pressure vessel, one of these: http://www.acegrit.co.uk/acegrit/gritblaster/page3...
The cabinet I made myself from 15mm ply. It's not very 'clean' when you're blasting using media such as s
g or really dirty stuff. I wear a decent 3M mask as black snot is not funny! Whereas you could buy: http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/...
Which is everything you'd need, it's totally contained and clean!
HTH
Tim
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/5pcs-Screw-Stud-Bolt-Extract...
I have used these in the past to remove snapped off bleed nipples.
Not always sucessful but worth a try.
They are effectively a LH threaded bit which grips as you screw it in to whats left of your nipple.
IYKWIM
I have used these in the past to remove snapped off bleed nipples.
Not always sucessful but worth a try.
They are effectively a LH threaded bit which grips as you screw it in to whats left of your nipple.
IYKWIM
odyssey2200 said:
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/5pcs-Screw-Stud-Bolt-Extract...
I have used these in the past to remove snapped off bleed nipples.
Not always sucessful but worth a try.
They are effectively a LH threaded bit which grips as you screw it in to whats left of your nipple.
IYKWIM
Ta, but we've got them out. Having used EziOuts for various jobs over the years, with little success I've given up on them, they invariably break adding to the problems.I have used these in the past to remove snapped off bleed nipples.
Not always sucessful but worth a try.
They are effectively a LH threaded bit which grips as you screw it in to whats left of your nipple.
IYKWIM
I'm convinced that it wouldn't be any different in this case. However Julian's method of heat and cold does work and I would recommend it.
Tim
PS The best and only extractors I've ever had had 100% success with is the Irwin ones, such as: http://www.irwin.com/irwin/consumer/jhtml/browse.j...
Tim
That machine mart blast cabinett is the one I have in my workshop. However you might want to look at the one in the frost catalog as they seem to have the choice of a make your own or posh metal one. Also the two major choices for grit are aluoxide and glass bead. You need a way of changing without too much hassle. Not the case with mine but a handy emptying spout on the frost one.
Also the machine mart cab needs a fairly strong compressor with about 14CFM at 100psi to run it at anything like cleaning power. I don't know how the others fair.
Also the machine mart cab needs a fairly strong compressor with about 14CFM at 100psi to run it at anything like cleaning power. I don't know how the others fair.
Erich Stahler said:
Sorry for re-posting on an old thread, but whats the latest thinking on this? I have nipples shearing off.
Have any of you that replaced old broken ones with stainless found they were ok last time you bled the brakes?
First thing is never use a spanner or a ratchet - only use a socket on a T bar if they seem even slightly obstinate.Have any of you that replaced old broken ones with stainless found they were ok last time you bled the brakes?
Secondly, flush fluid regularly, annually minimum, more frequently if used on track.
Next make sure the rubber covers are present and not damaged by spanner monkeys when they balance the wheels.
Finally, replace the nipples themselves if in any doubt about their condition, they are only £1 each.
K33LER said:
E2D Engineering in Ashford Kent re-milled my callipers and put in stainless steel nipples to prevent further issues. Some needed oversize nipples, some just needed replacing. Hope that helps?
Hi there, that's just what i'm looking for, don't suppose you have any more in the way of contact details as that's not throwing up anything that likely from a Google search?Thanks.
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