Car runs for a few seconds then stops

Car runs for a few seconds then stops

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S7Paul

Original Poster:

2,103 posts

234 months

Sunday 21st February 2016
quotequote all
Hi all,

We've had a K11 Micra in the family for the last 11 years, and the only breakdown in all that time was due to a worn out ignition switch. Now, just a week before its new owner collects it, we have a problem. It's been stood unused for a couple of months, but was fine when last used.

The issue now is that it starts, runs for a few seconds then stops. If you try to start it again immediately, it cranks but doesn't start. If you leave it for a few seconds it starts, but then dies again. Once it starts, it doesn't matter if you leave it idling or whether you rev it, it still cuts out after about 3 seconds.

It's not an OBDII car, so I can't scan it, but you can put the ECU into diagnostic mode using a jumper wire. I've done this and no lights come up.

My first thought was the battery, but it's seems to spin the motor over fine, and has had no trouble starting the car. I can hear the fuel pump working. Not sure where to look now, so any suggestions or advice would be appreciated.

Cheers,

Paul

227bhp

10,203 posts

128 months

Sunday 21st February 2016
quotequote all
Fuelling problem one way or another.

bearman68

4,650 posts

132 months

Sunday 21st February 2016
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Hi.
I had one of these with similar issues, and it turned out to be the ignition switch falling apart. It's possible it happening again.
It's worth seeing if you have sparks - pul one of the ignition leads off, and check for sparks. Alternatively, try and run it on easy start. Either test will show the presence of spark or not.
Assuming you have spark, it can only be fuel - as suggested. I have seen these with a partially knackered fuel injector - resistance across it (assuming it is single point), should be a few ohms, and reading is excess of say 50 indicates a fuel injector. Also don't discount the pump just because you can hear it run.

Best of luck.

PeterBurgess

775 posts

146 months

Sunday 21st February 2016
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Hi Paul, a longshot but I have had this problem when I broke the chip thingy in my Jimny key, engine started for a few secs then packs up. I also get the same with my Cherokee Jeeps, the ignition key from one starts the other but it only runs a few seconds then a key warning light comes on on the dash. Have you got a spare key to try? At least it would rule out key chip fault.

Peter

stevieturbo

17,256 posts

247 months

Sunday 21st February 2016
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Is there fuel in it ?

aka_kerrly

12,416 posts

210 months

Sunday 21st February 2016
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Have you got a spare key you could try. It does sound like an immobiliser issue

S7Paul

Original Poster:

2,103 posts

234 months

Sunday 21st February 2016
quotequote all
Thanks for the suggestions so far. There is fuel in the tank, and I've tried the other key. Having done some more investigation, I've noticed that the NATS immobiliser indicator light is permanently off, so it's looking like an immobiliser fault of some description.

stevieturbo

17,256 posts

247 months

Sunday 21st February 2016
quotequote all
It shouldnt happen...but some cars sitting with battery flat lose their key programming, so could well be something like that if immobiliser lights dont appear normal

Mikey G

4,729 posts

240 months

Sunday 21st February 2016
quotequote all
I had a customer with a similar problem on a K11, immobiliser would trip up for no reason, plug in and clear the code and it would go again. You need to find someone with the correct software forr Nissan though.. I'm a little far away from you..

cptsideways

13,542 posts

252 months

Sunday 21st February 2016
quotequote all
It's firing the fuel pump to prime the system, but then not running on once started like its supposed to. My bet is a dodgy fuel pump relay or check the MAF plugs.

Has this got a flappy air meter? If so ign on & push the flap fuel pump should still run.

Mr2Mike

20,143 posts

255 months

Monday 22nd February 2016
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I had this problem on an old Mk2 Fiesta, engine would run only for a few seconds. After much head scratching I found the problem was the exhaust which had rusted internally to the point it was completely blocked, despite looking virtually new on the outside.

towser

919 posts

211 months

Monday 22nd February 2016
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Dirty Air Filter?

fatjon

2,175 posts

213 months

Wednesday 24th February 2016
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cptsideways said:
It's firing the fuel pump to prime the system, but then not running on once started like its supposed to.
This or a badly clogged fuel filter would be my starting point.

S7Paul

Original Poster:

2,103 posts

234 months

Monday 29th February 2016
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Just to close this off:

There appears to be no mechanics in my area that are mobile AND have the Nissan diagnostic equipment required to resolve immobiliser faults, so I was facing a considerable bill to get the car to a specialist for them to look at it. Unless I could fix it myself...

I had left the battery off the car while I charged it, and had read that sometimes leaving it disconnected for a while resets the system. It didn't work.

I had also seen on the internet that to re-sync the key to the car, you have to switch the ignition on & off 5 times within 10 seconds and then start the car immediately. This didn't work either, and a local Nissan "specialist" had never heard of this method.

I then stripped out some of the dash and centre console panels, as by then I was resigned to having to get someone to look at it, so thought I'd make access easier. This allowed access to the ECU, so I thought I'd disconnect it for a few minutes then re-connect it. Shortly afterwards I noticed that the immobiliser warning light was flashing (as it should when the car isn't running). I put the key in the ignition and started the car...and it stayed running!

Having got this far, I then tried the other key, and the car stopped again after a few seconds. I then tried the "switching on & off" trick mentioned above, and it worked - 2nd key sync'd to the car.

So in summary, for some reason while the car was standing, the immobiliser lost it's memory. Disconnecting and reconnecting the ECU reset the system. Once reset, one key already worked and the second key was then matched to the car. Everything's now working fine, and car is now sold. Result!

k.damons

1 posts

73 months

Thursday 15th March 2018
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Hey Guys ,

Trust that all is well.

I drive a 1.8 Runx and a day ago i started up the car and everything was fine and i smelt fuel, opened the bonnet and saw that my fuel pipe that connects the metal pipe from the fuel rail to the metal pipe that goes to the tank had a small cut in it. I then cut it shorter and reconnected it and tried starting the car then it started and died as if there was no petrol in. went to buy petrol and threw it and still does the exact same. when i start and try to rev it up it will miss and die as if there is no petrol in ( keeping in mind when i opened the bonnet, petrol was shooting out of the fuel pipe that had a hole in so it seems as if it made everything under the bonnet wet)

Please help guys, i checked all the sensor plugs and unplugged the sensors of the ejectors to see if it got wet but all looks good. decided to leave it over night to dry up areas maybe that i missed but the next morning it did exactly it same! super frustrating.

stevieturbo

17,256 posts

247 months

Thursday 15th March 2018
quotequote all
WTF is a Runx ?

garagewidow

1,502 posts

170 months

Thursday 15th March 2018
quotequote all
k.damons said:
Hey Guys ,

Trust that all is well.

I drive a 1.8 Runx and a day ago i started up the car and everything was fine and i smelt fuel, opened the bonnet and saw that my fuel pipe that connects the metal pipe from the fuel rail to the metal pipe that goes to the tank had a small cut in it. I then cut it shorter and reconnected it and tried starting the car then it started and died as if there was no petrol in. went to buy petrol and threw it and still does the exact same. when i start and try to rev it up it will miss and die as if there is no petrol in ( keeping in mind when i opened the bonnet, petrol was shooting out of the fuel pipe that had a hole in so it seems as if it made everything under the bonnet wet)

Please help guys, i checked all the sensor plugs and unplugged the sensors of the ejectors to see if it got wet but all looks good. decided to leave it over night to dry up areas maybe that i missed but the next morning it did exactly it same! super frustrating.
Read the bit in brackets again.

E-bmw

9,186 posts

152 months

Thursday 15th March 2018
quotequote all
garagewidow said:
k.damons said:
Hey Guys ,

Trust that all is well.

I drive a 1.8 Runx and a day ago i started up the car and everything was fine and i smelt fuel, opened the bonnet and saw that my fuel pipe that connects the metal pipe from the fuel rail to the metal pipe that goes to the tank had a small cut in it. I then cut it shorter and reconnected it and tried starting the car then it started and died as if there was no petrol in. went to buy petrol and threw it and still does the exact same. when i start and try to rev it up it will miss and die as if there is no petrol in ( keeping in mind when i opened the bonnet, petrol was shooting out of the fuel pipe that had a hole in so it seems as if it made everything under the bonnet wet)

Please help guys, i checked all the sensor plugs and unplugged the sensors of the ejectors to see if it got wet but all looks good. decided to leave it over night to dry up areas maybe that i missed but the next morning it did exactly it same! super frustrating.
Read the bit in brackets again.
And your point is?

E-bmw

9,186 posts

152 months

Thursday 15th March 2018
quotequote all
k.damons said:
went to buy petrol and threw it and still does the exact same.
Don't know what this means?

E-bmw

9,186 posts

152 months

Thursday 15th March 2018
quotequote all
k.damons said:
Please help guys, i checked all the sensor plugs and unplugged the sensors of the ejectors to see if it got wet but all looks good.
Feck me, you have ejector seats fitted!