Rover V8 power loss at high load - Help please!
Discussion
Thanks, Tubes. I'll explore that possibility too.
Mark,
That's what I have. Do you have/make a lead I could exchange for some pennies?
I found this: http://www.carbuildersolutions.com/uk/multipin-loc...
Might it be compatible? I know it's a 6-way, but modifiable?
I should have some time (and money) in the next couple of weeks when I could pop down to you at your convenience for a lead and maybe a plug-in to see what's happening while you're on hand with your expertise and experience. Please can you PM me with a location and prices? Thank you.
BTW, the plugs I swapped out all looked the same, and like they've been running rich. Looking at the last post, will rovergauge pick up a lambda failure? Is there a way to test them without RG? Meanwhile, I'll also see if I can figure out how to attach a photo....
Mark,
That's what I have. Do you have/make a lead I could exchange for some pennies?
I found this: http://www.carbuildersolutions.com/uk/multipin-loc...
Might it be compatible? I know it's a 6-way, but modifiable?
I should have some time (and money) in the next couple of weeks when I could pop down to you at your convenience for a lead and maybe a plug-in to see what's happening while you're on hand with your expertise and experience. Please can you PM me with a location and prices? Thank you.
BTW, the plugs I swapped out all looked the same, and like they've been running rich. Looking at the last post, will rovergauge pick up a lambda failure? Is there a way to test them without RG? Meanwhile, I'll also see if I can figure out how to attach a photo....
Ive made a batch of cables for the MGRs with bespoke plugs as you cant get the lucas connectors anymore and they are on Ebay if you want one. Otherwise Im happy to have a look at the car FOC as Im just ramping up on diagnostics and mapping for these cars and Ib be interested in seeing if the mapping is the same as Land Rover or Range Rover. The TVR 3.9 map gives a significant power increase over the stock Lucas maps even running the hi torque Range Rover Cam. Drop me a message with your Email address as I cant mail you.
Edited by blitzracing on Thursday 8th September 13:18
Check the throttle position sensor outputs, I had a MGV8 in a couple of years ago with exactly the same symptoms. The resistance sweep was fine but it wasn't actually sending a voltage back to the ECU.
There is a comprehensive guide somewhere on the internet that gives you the input/output information and it takes about five minutes to test it with a multimeter.
The chap took the old sensor away as apparently someone in the 'club' was going to find out what happened to it as normally it is the track that breaks and gives intermittent readings/flat spots through the pedal sweep rather than it just not sending back the signal completely.
It was a while ago but from memory, when stationary the signal from the TPS doesn't do anything, once moving the ECU uses it in conjunction with the other sensors to adjust fuelling/injector opening times hence it revving fine when stationary but going all doowhacky when driving.
ETA;
This should give you the info you need - you can use a small pin or split pin to poke into the back of the connectors to get a reading with it plugged in.
http://www.g33.co.uk/fuel_injection.htm
There is a comprehensive guide somewhere on the internet that gives you the input/output information and it takes about five minutes to test it with a multimeter.
The chap took the old sensor away as apparently someone in the 'club' was going to find out what happened to it as normally it is the track that breaks and gives intermittent readings/flat spots through the pedal sweep rather than it just not sending back the signal completely.
It was a while ago but from memory, when stationary the signal from the TPS doesn't do anything, once moving the ECU uses it in conjunction with the other sensors to adjust fuelling/injector opening times hence it revving fine when stationary but going all doowhacky when driving.
ETA;
This should give you the info you need - you can use a small pin or split pin to poke into the back of the connectors to get a reading with it plugged in.
http://www.g33.co.uk/fuel_injection.htm
Edited by Jimmyarm on Friday 9th September 14:14
Just so you are aware Blitzracing = http://www.g33.co.uk/fuel_injection.htm.
He has already suggested buying his lead and RoverGauge.
This has to be your first move as so much can be learnt using this software.
From the most recent comments the throttle position sensor can be see to be working using RoverGauge so no need for messing with multimeters.
RoverGauge does not read and display the sensors directly it asks the ECU for the info so what you see in RG is what the ECU is seeing and using.
Steve
He has already suggested buying his lead and RoverGauge.
This has to be your first move as so much can be learnt using this software.
From the most recent comments the throttle position sensor can be see to be working using RoverGauge so no need for messing with multimeters.
RoverGauge does not read and display the sensors directly it asks the ECU for the info so what you see in RG is what the ECU is seeing and using.
Steve
No don't disconnect the speedo sensor, just test it using a multimeter. It really is easy, pick the right wire and watch the voltage output as per Blitz Racings handy guide 
Yes Rover gauge will be a great help but, when you aren't getting a TPS reading you still have to test everything to see what is not working as the software won't tell you that !
Yes Rover gauge will be a great help but, when you aren't getting a TPS reading you still have to test everything to see what is not working as the software won't tell you that !
Edited by Jimmyarm on Tuesday 13th September 09:07
Just an update on what we found- initially the car ran just fine and refused to go faulty albeit it was running lean at WOT, but not so much to cause a misfire or detonation. HT system was checked out OK. Luckily the fault reappeared, and the Lambda trim showed 100% adding fuel, so it was running chronically lean. We both suspect this is due to debris in the fuel system limiting supply as the car has been stood for some time so the tank may be full of rust or like, so time to flush the fuel system and try again.
Could you borrow a borescope to look into the fuel tank or maybe bypass the tank using a speedboat fuel tank to see if dirty fuel is the problem?
I had a similar problem with two long term stored motorbikes where moisture and (I presume) ethanol had combined to form threads of wooly stuff which took a lot of effort to find and remove from tanks lines and carbs.
I had a similar problem with two long term stored motorbikes where moisture and (I presume) ethanol had combined to form threads of wooly stuff which took a lot of effort to find and remove from tanks lines and carbs.
Firstly, massive thanks to Mark for his time and input this morning. He has improved my knowledge greatly (ie from nothing to something!) on the function of and interaction between the ecu and sensors. It was a relief to know definitively that all the sensors are functioning correctly, and it's down to a physical impedement (car, not me) that I can resolve myself.
My first stop, as Mark says above, will be the fuel tank. I am lucky enough to have access to an endoscope through work, so I'll see what I can see.
Any advice on cleaning and resealing the inside of the tank will be gratefully received. Current fave is the vinegar, nuts and concrete mixer, swiftly followed by a rinse with meths (again, the tank, not me....)
Thanks also to all of you for reading and posting comments. It's this resource that makes forums like this so worthwhile, and gives a huge morale boost to troubled souls like me, knowing that help is out there, and freely offered.
Cheers, peeps! You is all stars!
My first stop, as Mark says above, will be the fuel tank. I am lucky enough to have access to an endoscope through work, so I'll see what I can see.
Any advice on cleaning and resealing the inside of the tank will be gratefully received. Current fave is the vinegar, nuts and concrete mixer, swiftly followed by a rinse with meths (again, the tank, not me....)
Thanks also to all of you for reading and posting comments. It's this resource that makes forums like this so worthwhile, and gives a huge morale boost to troubled souls like me, knowing that help is out there, and freely offered.
Cheers, peeps! You is all stars!
I've only skim-read this. Two thoughts:
- The 3.9 RV8 in my RRC was a pig to start and down on power. New (standard, NGK) plugs (£12) and a new ignition amp (£20) sorted it. I went though EVERYTHING before going for the more obvious things
- You mentioned something about it being laid up? How much fuel was in in when you laid it up, how much is in it now, and how much is fresh? Modern fuel really does go off. Obv a different machine but I had a track bike which, every spring when I got it out and got it running, would run like a pig until/unless I drained the fuel and put new in, when it immediately and miraculously became the same animal it was the summer before.
- The 3.9 RV8 in my RRC was a pig to start and down on power. New (standard, NGK) plugs (£12) and a new ignition amp (£20) sorted it. I went though EVERYTHING before going for the more obvious things
- You mentioned something about it being laid up? How much fuel was in in when you laid it up, how much is in it now, and how much is fresh? Modern fuel really does go off. Obv a different machine but I had a track bike which, every spring when I got it out and got it running, would run like a pig until/unless I drained the fuel and put new in, when it immediately and miraculously became the same animal it was the summer before.
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