Turbo / TDI Woes (Please Help)
Discussion
Hello everyone.
I wrote a huge elaborate post but I'm going to keep it fairly simple.
I'm a bit stuck cash wise at the moment as I'm about to become a student (Even sold my 350Z!) so I can't keep affording to go back to garages (But I'm not expecting anyone to help for free and I'm willing to pay)
I have a 2005 Seat Toledo 2.0TDI 140BHP DSG
Two months ago it blew its turbo and I ordered a reconditioned one (Which has now been fitted)
However since the turbos been fitted I've had issues:
The first day it started going into limp mode.
Contacted my mechanic and he said give it a couple days the rod/actuator could be sticking.
Next day, Limp modes went away however the car still felt underpowered (Its also got a stage 1 remap)
Next the intercooler pipe blew off (Mechanic put it on the ramp and fixed it in five minutes)
Boost keeps pulsing on and off if slowly accelerating through the gears
LOTS of smoke at low Revs
Unresponsive at low revs
I found a guide regarding adjusting the actuator rod and using VCDS because sometimes with recon turbos they are not in line with manufacturer specs and need this adjustment.
Car went into the garage today, Told the pipes been put back on again (Stops smoking at high revs) but it might still smoke.
I've just given it a blast about and its still throwing out WAY too much diesel in my opinion and I feel like the power simply isn't there.
Does anyone know of anyone local that has specific knowledge in turbos, fitting and tuning?
I'll be honest after having to sell my 350z I just wanted something that will do me for Uni and its really bringing me down that I deploy a smoke screen everytime I use the throttle.
I take pride in my cars and I just want things fixed, my current mechanic has quite large waiting times and thankfully he didn't charge me for today but I also don't want to keep waiting weeks as I've lost about 10mpg if I drive it like miss daisy and about 30mpg if I give it some beans!
Can anyone help?
I wrote a huge elaborate post but I'm going to keep it fairly simple.
I'm a bit stuck cash wise at the moment as I'm about to become a student (Even sold my 350Z!) so I can't keep affording to go back to garages (But I'm not expecting anyone to help for free and I'm willing to pay)
I have a 2005 Seat Toledo 2.0TDI 140BHP DSG
Two months ago it blew its turbo and I ordered a reconditioned one (Which has now been fitted)
However since the turbos been fitted I've had issues:
The first day it started going into limp mode.
Contacted my mechanic and he said give it a couple days the rod/actuator could be sticking.
Next day, Limp modes went away however the car still felt underpowered (Its also got a stage 1 remap)
Next the intercooler pipe blew off (Mechanic put it on the ramp and fixed it in five minutes)
Boost keeps pulsing on and off if slowly accelerating through the gears
LOTS of smoke at low Revs
Unresponsive at low revs
I found a guide regarding adjusting the actuator rod and using VCDS because sometimes with recon turbos they are not in line with manufacturer specs and need this adjustment.
Car went into the garage today, Told the pipes been put back on again (Stops smoking at high revs) but it might still smoke.
I've just given it a blast about and its still throwing out WAY too much diesel in my opinion and I feel like the power simply isn't there.
Does anyone know of anyone local that has specific knowledge in turbos, fitting and tuning?
I'll be honest after having to sell my 350z I just wanted something that will do me for Uni and its really bringing me down that I deploy a smoke screen everytime I use the throttle.
I take pride in my cars and I just want things fixed, my current mechanic has quite large waiting times and thankfully he didn't charge me for today but I also don't want to keep waiting weeks as I've lost about 10mpg if I drive it like miss daisy and about 30mpg if I give it some beans!
Can anyone help?
you dont mention if it was actually fine before the turbo problems ?
You mention remap...there are lots and lots of very dodgy remaps out there, causing all manner of problems.
Likewise with dodgy mechanics unable to repair basic things, like swapping a turbo. There are multiple problems here, and it could be a combination of any of these causing you grief between the vehicle itself, those working at it, and parts supplied.
This can make things a nightmare for the owner.
You mention remap...there are lots and lots of very dodgy remaps out there, causing all manner of problems.
Likewise with dodgy mechanics unable to repair basic things, like swapping a turbo. There are multiple problems here, and it could be a combination of any of these causing you grief between the vehicle itself, those working at it, and parts supplied.
This can make things a nightmare for the owner.
stevieturbo said:
you dont mention if it was actually fine before the turbo problems ?
You mention remap...there are lots and lots of very dodgy remaps out there, causing all manner of problems.
Likewise with dodgy mechanics unable to repair basic things, like swapping a turbo. There are multiple problems here, and it could be a combination of any of these causing you grief between the vehicle itself, those working at it, and parts supplied.
This can make things a nightmare for the owner.
Sorry, You mention remap...there are lots and lots of very dodgy remaps out there, causing all manner of problems.
Likewise with dodgy mechanics unable to repair basic things, like swapping a turbo. There are multiple problems here, and it could be a combination of any of these causing you grief between the vehicle itself, those working at it, and parts supplied.
This can make things a nightmare for the owner.
To note the car was absolutely fine before the turbo blew, The remap had been on there for about 8 months or so, The car had 120,000 miles when the turbo went and it was the original turbo so I'm not overly surprised when it happened.
I'm having the car de-mapped anyway as my financial circumstances have changed as I'm going to Uni so reliability over performance is important for me now (Hence the stress)
Having had the car a few days now, it certainly smokes less than before but if I put it on cruise control and it tries to use all of its low-end torque it will either struggle and eventually drop two gears (Never had to before on these hills) , pulse on and off, or put itself into limp mode
chammyman said:
Is the actuator moving through its full travel?
Does it have the modded loom for the boost actuator? Have you checked the looms not rubbed through?
Are the vacuum pipes ok?
All boost pipes secure and not de-laminating inside?
I'm not sure, I'm going to assume that because this car was standard when given to me that the only mod is the remap (Which is now coming off)Does it have the modded loom for the boost actuator? Have you checked the looms not rubbed through?
Are the vacuum pipes ok?
All boost pipes secure and not de-laminating inside?
Can I get to the vacuum pipes without getting under the car?
The boost pipes were coming loose but I believe this has now been resolved (I'll google de-laminating)
My only problem is my back is very bad so getting under the car is very difficult from me but anything looking down into the engine bay I can look at!
Thanks for your help I'll be googling some of the things in your response.
Did a similar problem only yesterday.
Here's what I would do.
1) Remove the vac pipe from the turbo actuator, actuate it manually with a vac pump. Make sure it moves through it travel (normally about 20mm or so). Assuming it does, hold the vac as high as it will go,and go drive the car.
If it drives like a scalded cat, you have a control issue. If it drives flat, you have a mechanical problem.
Control issues - Vac pipes, N75 valve, actuator, Boost pressure sensor. ECU, wiring.
Mechanical issues. Blocked inlet (inc air filter), split turbo hose, jammed or otherwise faulty EGR valve. Blocked exhaust, bad turbo.
Job jobbed.
(My job yesterday was the last thing on the list - a duff turbo.
Here's what I would do.
1) Remove the vac pipe from the turbo actuator, actuate it manually with a vac pump. Make sure it moves through it travel (normally about 20mm or so). Assuming it does, hold the vac as high as it will go,and go drive the car.
If it drives like a scalded cat, you have a control issue. If it drives flat, you have a mechanical problem.
Control issues - Vac pipes, N75 valve, actuator, Boost pressure sensor. ECU, wiring.
Mechanical issues. Blocked inlet (inc air filter), split turbo hose, jammed or otherwise faulty EGR valve. Blocked exhaust, bad turbo.
Job jobbed.
(My job yesterday was the last thing on the list - a duff turbo.
bearman68 said:
Did a similar problem only yesterday.
Here's what I would do.
1) Remove the vac pipe from the turbo actuator, actuate it manually with a vac pump. Make sure it moves through it travel (normally about 20mm or so). Assuming it does, hold the vac as high as it will go,and go drive the car.
If it drives like a scalded cat, you have a control issue. If it drives flat, you have a mechanical problem.
Control issues - Vac pipes, N75 valve, actuator, Boost pressure sensor. ECU, wiring.
Mechanical issues. Blocked inlet (inc air filter), split turbo hose, jammed or otherwise faulty EGR valve. Blocked exhaust, bad turbo.
Job jobbed.
(My job yesterday was the last thing on the list - a duff turbo.
Thanks, Bearman.Here's what I would do.
1) Remove the vac pipe from the turbo actuator, actuate it manually with a vac pump. Make sure it moves through it travel (normally about 20mm or so). Assuming it does, hold the vac as high as it will go,and go drive the car.
If it drives like a scalded cat, you have a control issue. If it drives flat, you have a mechanical problem.
Control issues - Vac pipes, N75 valve, actuator, Boost pressure sensor. ECU, wiring.
Mechanical issues. Blocked inlet (inc air filter), split turbo hose, jammed or otherwise faulty EGR valve. Blocked exhaust, bad turbo.
Job jobbed.
(My job yesterday was the last thing on the list - a duff turbo.
I'll have a shop around for a VAC Pump and look into trying to do what you say.
Just whilst I'm here, I pulled the fault codes from the ECU this morning and this is what I received.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/1f7vY19Kw6eragIH3
CraftyBanardo said:
Thanks, Bearman.
I'll have a shop around for a VAC Pump and look into trying to do what you say.
Just whilst I'm here, I pulled the fault codes from the ECU this morning and this is what I received.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/1f7vY19Kw6eragIH3
Bypass the solenoid valve, save you buying a pump (for now). Alternatively, you are showing MAF faults. Try disconnecting it and running it with no mass air flow meter (Immediately downstream of the air filter). It may run OK with this disconnected - though it may just go into instant limp. So 2 very cheap and instant ideas that might help.I'll have a shop around for a VAC Pump and look into trying to do what you say.
Just whilst I'm here, I pulled the fault codes from the ECU this morning and this is what I received.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/1f7vY19Kw6eragIH3
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