Cam regrind

[Arnold Cunningham]

Due to a ballsup on my part, I've managed to damage a lobe on the cam for my tall deck mk IV BBC motor - hydraulic roller cam with morel lifters.

I've given it a polish with 2000 and the mark is still there. As it's a roller cam, I suspect it'll be ok if I run it, but I'm not really in the mood for chancing, so I'd rather have it cleaned up properly.

Can anyone recommend a company in the south that could do this? Alsop could do it I guess, are there any others?

[Boosted LS1]

Is it just a witness mark or can you see damage? If you can't see or feel and damage I'd have thought it would be just fine.

[Arnold Cunningham]

I can "just" feel it. It's a depression rather than raised, and with a straight edge can just detect it. So its probably a couple of tenths at most.

When assembling it late one evening managed to put one roller pair in reversed. Dumb arse move trying to work late at night long after I should've called it a day. Cranked it over 1 cycle before I spotted it - mark left. Doh!

The roller is fine, harder material. Very slight visible mark on it, but completely undetectable with fingernail etc.

[stevieturbo]

Are you sure it wasnt like that before ?

Seems odd one crank would cause any damage ?

Any pics ?

[Boosted LS1]

Fitting a roller the wrong way round shouldn't cause a problem. Like Stevie suggests have you got pics? I suspect the 'damage' was always there if indeed it's damage.

[Mignon]

I'm not sure what you think 2000 grit w&d paper is going to do to a chill cast or induction hardened cam lobe other than very mildly annoy it but I can assure you this is not the answer. Nor is any hope of someone being able to regrind or otherwise fix this with some sort of machine. To grind or regrind a cam lobe you need the original master cam profile to follow or on more modern CNC machinery the full digital lobe profile. If you want to do something constructive then take a 1" wide strip of 180 grit with some lubricant like thin oil or paraffin and strop the lobe by hand until the mark goes away. It may take a while. A good way of stropping both cam and crank journals is to use a length of old cam belt as a backing for the w&d paper.

[Arnold Cunningham]

Thanks. So, back to the original question, is there someone who has the right kit to be able to advise and/or help?

[Arnold Cunningham]

@mignon. You've gotta be David Baker with that level of grumpiness?
Welcome back.

[227bhp]

Arnold Cunningham said:

@mignon. You've gotta be David Baker with that level of stroppiness?

EFA.

[Boosted LS1]

Nope your both wrong, ya gits. I'm Baker the bread maker..

[Boosted LS1]

Arnold Cunningham said:

@mignon. You've gotta be David Baker with that level of grumpiness?
Welcome back.

I read your earlier post when you posted it and was waiting for the beating to arrive but nothing happened. I was quite disappointed as there could have been some entertainment ;-) .

[stevieturbo]

Arnold Cunningham said:

@mignon. You've gotta be David Baker with that level of grumpiness?
Welcome back.

Or that level of fact stating ?

And answering the question which seems to have been overlooked given the post that followed ?

[Boosted LS1]

And hence why I was expecting the bread makers blistering reply, lol. The advice had already been given.

[Arnold Cunningham]

Thanks all. Much appreciated as always.

[Arnold Cunningham]

I notice the other chap that posted deleted his post. Where'd he go?

[Boosted LS1]

^ Who do you mean?

[Arnold Cunningham]

I didn't catch his name, but he posted a pic of his tall deck motor with iron heads, roller lifters and part of an std-> tall deck intake spacer on the block.

[Boosted LS1]

Ah, I think I missed that.

[Arnold Cunningham]

You keep changing the pictures!

What was the spec?

[Arnold Cunningham]

Interesting. What's it in?