Ford type 9 gearbox reverse lockout question.
Discussion
Hi all,
I have a T9 box on my Birkin 7 which is too easy to get into reverse.
I have just replaced the plastic bush under the gear stick which was worn, I also replaced most of the oil with the proper Ford stuff. The box feels much better but still too easy to get into reverse when trying to find first.
Can someone please clarify, does the gear lever need to be pressed down to select reverse?
If so could I help things by putting a stronger spring to hold the stick up?
However I gotta say I can get it into reverse without pushing the stick down (hence 1st question), so maybe the stick is set too low??
The box only has 3500 miles on it and apparently new about 6 years ago.
Cheers
Ed
I have a T9 box on my Birkin 7 which is too easy to get into reverse.
I have just replaced the plastic bush under the gear stick which was worn, I also replaced most of the oil with the proper Ford stuff. The box feels much better but still too easy to get into reverse when trying to find first.
Can someone please clarify, does the gear lever need to be pressed down to select reverse?
If so could I help things by putting a stronger spring to hold the stick up?
However I gotta say I can get it into reverse without pushing the stick down (hence 1st question), so maybe the stick is set too low??
The box only has 3500 miles on it and apparently new about 6 years ago.
Cheers
Ed
You are right!
I had another look. The problem is that the shoulder at the end of the gearstick that you have to push down to get underneath the reverse 'detant' rail is worn or badly formed insofar as it isn't catching on the detant fully and easily slips underneath it.
I would guess a new gearstick, but I'll try sharpening the shoulder and raising the stick a bit first.
I had another look. The problem is that the shoulder at the end of the gearstick that you have to push down to get underneath the reverse 'detant' rail is worn or badly formed insofar as it isn't catching on the detant fully and easily slips underneath it.
I would guess a new gearstick, but I'll try sharpening the shoulder and raising the stick a bit first.
If it uses the standard stick (as opposed to a relocated stick and a remote linkage) then IIRC there is a 'rubber ball' on the arrangement which gives resistance when the stick is pushed down. I'm aware of this because mine (on a different kit car) provided TOO MUCH resistance and the MOT guy broke the gear stick trying to put it in reverse - I don't think he realise he had to push it down either!. Anyway, if you find it had this 'rubber ball, IIRC there is a circlip above said part, so remove circlip, pack out either above or below the ball with a washer and replace the circlip - the aim is to get 'some' resistance to the stick moving down, but not too much so you can't get it in gear.
Hope that all makes sense, good luck.
Hope that all makes sense, good luck.
Cheers gents.
Before I read that I had just put a washer under each bolt hole. I also sharpened the shoulder, and it seems to have solved the problem.
The unit I have is from Birkin and is actually very nice. I suspect somewhere along the line a gasket or seal got lost. The washers now do the job.
If there is any issue when I drive it next I would certainly buy that Caterham stick but it looks very similar to a quick shift set up. If the pivot/fulcrom is the same as stock then it is perfect!
For now, the washers mean I can eat tomorrow!
Before I read that I had just put a washer under each bolt hole. I also sharpened the shoulder, and it seems to have solved the problem.
The unit I have is from Birkin and is actually very nice. I suspect somewhere along the line a gasket or seal got lost. The washers now do the job.
If there is any issue when I drive it next I would certainly buy that Caterham stick but it looks very similar to a quick shift set up. If the pivot/fulcrom is the same as stock then it is perfect!
For now, the washers mean I can eat tomorrow!
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