Running in oil RV8
Discussion
Im about to start a refresh on a Tvr 3.9 Rover V8 and wondered which oil is recommended to run the engine in?
I have some Redline assembly lube which i intend to use sparingly, but wondered which oil was best for the initial start up.
I use penrite HPR 15 in normal operation which has quite a high zinc content but it is synthetic so maybe not the best idea for running in.
I have some Redline assembly lube which i intend to use sparingly, but wondered which oil was best for the initial start up.
I use penrite HPR 15 in normal operation which has quite a high zinc content but it is synthetic so maybe not the best idea for running in.
Joe Gibbs Driven break in oil. We have seen very good results on run in, lower leak down and better bhp. Recommended by a friend of ours and we love it. Recently we met an oil development specialist who was in touch with the folk who developed it for Nascar and confirmed the same results to us, better sealing and better bhp. We started using it to ensure correct running in rather than say to customers use cheap oil and give it some stick. problem is even cheap oils can prevent correct running in, the power increase was a most welcome side effect!
Peter
Peter
I hve never used them to be honest, I m sure they will be good. We tend to use Valvolene Racing VR1
https://www.valvoline.com/our-products/motor-oil/v...
Peter
https://www.valvoline.com/our-products/motor-oil/v...
Peter
Something cheap from Halfords, non synthetic will do it. Oh and defo give the engine a burst of revs (or several) when it initially fires up as that'll bed the rings in. It won't break. Make sure you've got oil pressure up with your drill beforehand to lube the bearings. Job done, drive it like you stole it but change the oil after 50-100 miles or so.
PH link for you - there's a lot more if you use the 'Search'.
www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&f=13...
www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&f=13...
Edited by paintman on Saturday 9th December 00:51
PeterBurgess said:
Joe Gibbs Driven break in oil. We have seen very good results on run in, lower leak down and better bhp. Recommended by a friend of ours and we love it. Recently we met an oil development specialist who was in touch with the folk who developed it for Nascar and confirmed the same results to us, better sealing and better bhp. We started using it to ensure correct running in rather than say to customers use cheap oil and give it some stick. problem is even cheap oils can prevent correct running in, the power increase was a most welcome side effect!
Peter
What evidence do you have to support this claim? How much extra bhp (% or otherwise), how many tests is this over and how were they conducted? Double blind or not?Peter
paintman said:
PH link for you - there's a lot more if you use the 'Search'.
www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&f=13...
Thanks for your input but I’m asking about a specific lubricant not the actual break in procedure.www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&f=13...
Edited by paintman on Saturday 9th December 00:51
Hi Dave I am not interested in getting into argument with you. You are welcome to do empirical research and find out for yourself as we have done. Our personal testing has involved around 10 of our built engines to certain formulae which have all shown small but measurable improvement. Dyno tests on A series engines, nothing to do with us have shown same. Source who knows the developer with Nascar private as I have not been authorised to divulge, I don't want to get a useful contact in trouble. We started using the Joe Gibbs oil to overcome a problem a lot of folk are having with arrested running in, we wanted an oil, as did half a dozen other engine builders I know, to find a running in oil that works. This Joe Gibbs oil is the answer for us. The increase in power is a by product of what we were looking for and a most welcome bonus. The OP asked for recommendations for running in oil, that is what I have given.
On another note, your contact Dave Vizard recommends this stuff http://www.oilextreme.com/breakin.html We only have one result for this from a like for like TR engine build, our head. The engine made more power using the stuff. Only one instance so I cannot say yay or nay!
Peter
On another note, your contact Dave Vizard recommends this stuff http://www.oilextreme.com/breakin.html We only have one result for this from a like for like TR engine build, our head. The engine made more power using the stuff. Only one instance so I cannot say yay or nay!
Peter
PeterBurgess said:
Stuff
What is your idea of a good running in regime? With an engine that is stock so will run on the road and then one which is modified so won't.The latter is always a difficult one - depending on how far you've strayed from standard of course and if you have any settings which you know will work with it.
I notice DV states holding it at xyz rpm whereas I was always advise doing lots of accelerating and decelerating to help bed the rings in.
Edited by 227bhp on Saturday 9th December 10:54
TBH I have run-in engines in the past with just basic mineral oil and have never had issues after with bore glaze or poor ring seal using oil post build etc etc due to the incorrect oil in use or not using so called running-in oil etc, I learned years ago break-in of rings is not rocket science but then neither is it to be taken lightly 
I truly believe you have only a very small window to break-in/scuff-in piston rings and you better do it quite aggressively as once that window of opportunity is gone its gone for good 
that initial 100 miles of use or so are very important IMO I am no hot s
t engine builder but I have built plenty from Chevy to Honda and feel I know what works ....... just my pennies worth
I truly believe you have only a very small window to break-in/scuff-in piston rings and you better do it quite aggressively as once that window of opportunity is gone its gone for good that initial 100 miles of use or so are very important IMO I am no hot st engine builder but I have built plenty from Chevy to Honda and feel I know what works ....... just my pennies worth Edited by Sardonicus on Saturday 9th December 14:54
Sardonicus said:
TBH I have broken engines in the past with just basic mineral oil and have never had issues after with bore glaze or poor ring seal using oil post build etc etc due to the incorrect oil in use or not using so called Break-In oil etc, I learned years ago breaking in rings is not rocket science but then neither is it to be taken lightly I truly believe you have only a very small window to break-in/scuff-in piston rings and you better do it quite aggressively as once that window of opportunity is gone its gone forever that initial 100 miles of use or so are very important IMO I am no hot st engine builder but I have built plenty from Chevy to Honda and feel I know what works ....... just my pennies worth
Needs an edit. that initial 100 miles of use or so are very important IMO I am no hot st engine builder but I have built plenty from Chevy to Honda and feel I know what works ....... just my pennies worth 
It's curious I've always thought how these miracle products, horsepower in a can etc, are always "discovered" by small companies in the land of the marketing hype, America, rather than in the billion dollar research labs of the OE car manufacturers or oil companies. It's not like either of those are under any pressure to produce better fuel consumption or bhp or emissions!
Snake oil salesmen have been making a good living for thousands of years though so why stop now. Humans are still as gullible and dumb as they ever were.
Snake oil salesmen have been making a good living for thousands of years though so why stop now. Humans are still as gullible and dumb as they ever were.
I cannot speak for other engine builders, they will have to state their own regimes. Initial start for our A and B series, get oil pressure up with plugs out, fire up and hold above 2000 rpm for around 10 mins to bed in cam. Switch off and sort any problems, no idling. Set max advance then either run in on road or on rollers. On road drive spiritedly in first three gears 4 and 5 speed box. Do not see what max speed is in higher gears and don't flog it up hills low gear wot.100 miles max then rolling road or thrash as usual.Killer is allowing friction heat to build up. Max torque rpm and wot will always be best rpm to bed in engine as max pressure on rings
I have owned two rolling roads, a water brake Clayton for 23 years then a Dynocom inertia/pau one since 2010.
With the Clayton I would hold a load at say 3000 rpm say 50 at the wheels (MGB 80-150 at wheels expected max depending on spec) until the water temp gets fairly hot(not daft hot, just hotter than normal) maybe 3-4 mins. Let engine cool repeat at say 4000 rpm 60 -90 bhp depending on spec/ once hottish 3-4 mins allow to cool. Then max rpm bhp at say 5/5000 depending on spec. Engine heats fast so keep an eye on it. Maybe 30 secs to 1 min max then cool, repeat a few times and suddenly heat rise much slower, that is when the engine is bedded to my thinking. On the Dynocom in inertia mode I spin the engine up to say 4-5000 rpm, repeat runs till engine shows getting hot then allow to cool, after around twenty mins the temp rise per run is very low so in my opinion the engine is bedded. We also take the opportunity to get a few fuel runs in as we are bedding the engine Runs take 4-10 secs depending on engine spec. Once the heat rise is sweet we start tuning for power as the readings are consistent. When the engine is bedding in runs are not consistent. So, with the inertia we have heat effects and power reading to indicate bedding in complete.
I hope this is what you were asking me?
Peter
I have owned two rolling roads, a water brake Clayton for 23 years then a Dynocom inertia/pau one since 2010.
With the Clayton I would hold a load at say 3000 rpm say 50 at the wheels (MGB 80-150 at wheels expected max depending on spec) until the water temp gets fairly hot(not daft hot, just hotter than normal) maybe 3-4 mins. Let engine cool repeat at say 4000 rpm 60 -90 bhp depending on spec/ once hottish 3-4 mins allow to cool. Then max rpm bhp at say 5/5000 depending on spec. Engine heats fast so keep an eye on it. Maybe 30 secs to 1 min max then cool, repeat a few times and suddenly heat rise much slower, that is when the engine is bedded to my thinking. On the Dynocom in inertia mode I spin the engine up to say 4-5000 rpm, repeat runs till engine shows getting hot then allow to cool, after around twenty mins the temp rise per run is very low so in my opinion the engine is bedded. We also take the opportunity to get a few fuel runs in as we are bedding the engine Runs take 4-10 secs depending on engine spec. Once the heat rise is sweet we start tuning for power as the readings are consistent. When the engine is bedding in runs are not consistent. So, with the inertia we have heat effects and power reading to indicate bedding in complete.
I hope this is what you were asking me?
Peter
Edited by PeterBurgess on Saturday 9th December 14:09
Sorry Dave, not from a small company, this one was acquired for 10 billion dollars in 2011. Sad to say not snake oil.
A link to an article on Joe Gibbs oils
http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/additional-tech/1...
Peter
A link to an article on Joe Gibbs oils
http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/additional-tech/1...
Peter
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