Mondeo st220 probs
Discussion
Hi , I'm abit of a newbie to this. I was wundering if anybody has any ideas. My car is 2002, and has a stutter a low revs, just had a major service, in which they discovered the crankcase breather pipes were perished, so hoping this would cure the problem, have had them replaced £140, but to no avail. Anyone now what to try next. My plugs were the original ones, nothing left of them. Hope someone can help
Double check which spark plugs you have... I had issues with this.
Original spark plugs
FINIS 4454955 - AGSF22FCM
Later changed to...
FINIS 5081089 - AGSF22F1M
2.5 V6
FINIS 4331810 - AGSF32FM
I once purchased 6 of the top ones, got 4 of them, 1 of the middle one and one of the bottom ones. The ‘32s run a step hotter. The Duratec ST unit is a fickle engine.
Original spark plugs
FINIS 4454955 - AGSF22FCM
Later changed to...
FINIS 5081089 - AGSF22F1M
2.5 V6
FINIS 4331810 - AGSF32FM
I once purchased 6 of the top ones, got 4 of them, 1 of the middle one and one of the bottom ones. The ‘32s run a step hotter. The Duratec ST unit is a fickle engine.
Can you work on the car yourself?
If so I'd change the spark plugs. This is an inlet manifold off job ; it's one reason why the rear bank is never touched. Silly really as the manifold isn't that awkward to remove. Get the correct plugs as outlined above.
I'd also get some leads while you are at it. I wouldn't both with wknecors. Only get either genuine Ford leads or BERU items. Yes they are expensive but they will work and fit correctly ; the cheaper leads including Magnecors never fit as well IME which can bring about issues.
Check the ICV hose going from the intake pipe to the idle control valve.
If you are near Warwickshire I'm happy to scan the car on Forscan to see what that brings up.
If so I'd change the spark plugs. This is an inlet manifold off job ; it's one reason why the rear bank is never touched. Silly really as the manifold isn't that awkward to remove. Get the correct plugs as outlined above.
I'd also get some leads while you are at it. I wouldn't both with wknecors. Only get either genuine Ford leads or BERU items. Yes they are expensive but they will work and fit correctly ; the cheaper leads including Magnecors never fit as well IME which can bring about issues.
Check the ICV hose going from the intake pipe to the idle control valve.
If you are near Warwickshire I'm happy to scan the car on Forscan to see what that brings up.
SebringMan said:
The UIM is a common pipe to crack. The heat kills them. I've never heard of one going porous but I have seen boost pipes exhibit similar symptoms before .
It looked fine, but when we stuck it under water it bubbled from the centre. Probably very small cracks - but replacing it solved everything.Thanks for all the help, will have to try leads and coil pack in new year I think. All I know is I had a rubber hose changed at the front of crankcase and one over the back, I did see him do them as he noticed them when doing my major service, they were well perished. Adding to my problems my suspension feels all the bumps,always bangs, used to be nice and smooth. I take it I need new front shocks etc
PERNERA2009 said:
Thanks for all the help, will have to try leads and coil pack in new year I think. All I know is I had a rubber hose changed at the front of crankcase and one over the back, I did see him do them as he noticed them when doing my major service, they were well perished. Adding to my problems my suspension feels all the bumps,always bangs, used to be nice and smooth. I take it I need new front shocks etc
Or snapped springs.If you are in the Midlands I am happy to scan the car for you. I have Forscan which can get more conclusive codes over a generic reader and possibly even Snap-On
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