No power black smoke coming out from the exhaust

[MrPetrolHead]

Hello guys i brought a Vauxhall Astra h 1.7cdti 2009 after owning the car for 3 days the turbo blew up. My mechanic replaced the turbo the car had no power and is burning the fuel black smoke coming out from the exhaust. It is very slow on 1st gear it goes up to 2-3k rpm and sometimes gains power after 3k but usually it doesnt but on higher gears it has more power. My mechanic changed the wastegate solenoid that did not resolve the issue. He cleaned out the egr valve and still no improvement he disconnected it and still the same. I dont know what to do with this car Its my work car i couldnt work for months and lost a lot of money. Today i disconnected the maf sensor the engine did not cut off i dont know if that is normal. I am thinking to change the fuel filter but i dont know if that will resolve the issue. My mechanic thinks the ecu is not working properly. It also shows not fault codes but when i disconnected the maf it did show a fault code. Any ideas please someone help me out. I took it to different mechanics they couldn't resolve the issue aswell. The car was running fine before the turbo blew up.

[J8 SVG]

Please stop posting these same posts. your car is broken, we get it, you don't need 20 threads to tell us so.

Go to a better mechanic or buy a better car.

[Scrump]

Another thread!
Are you on commission?

[boyse7en]

MrPetrolHead said:

Hello guys i brought a Vauxhall Astra h 1.7cdti 2009 after owning the car for 3 days the turbo blew up. My mechanic replaced the turbo the car had no power and is burning the fuel black smoke coming out from the exhaust. It is very slow on 1st gear it goes up to 2-3k rpm and sometimes gains power after 3k but usually it doesnt but on higher gears it has more power. My mechanic changed the wastegate solenoid that did not resolve the issue. He cleaned out the egr valve and still no improvement he disconnected it and still the same. I dont know what to do with this car Its my work car i couldnt work for months and lost a lot of money. Today i disconnected the maf sensor the engine did not cut off i dont know if that is normal. I am thinking to change the fuel filter but i dont know if that will resolve the issue. My mechanic thinks the ecu is not working properly. It also shows not fault codes but when i disconnected the maf it did show a fault code. Any ideas please someone help me out. I took it to different mechanics they couldn't resolve the issue aswell. The car was running fine before the turbo blew up.

Black sooty smoke and lack of power is a sign of excess fuelling, which is usually due to an air leak somewhere between the MAF sensor and the cylinder. Check all the hoses between the air filter and the turbo, then from the turbo to the intercooler, looking for cracks or damage.
It could also be the intercooler itself has got holed.

[counterofbeans]

MrPetrolHead said:

this st again

Not this st again......

[stevieturbo]

You bought another car and had the exact same problems as one a few weeks ago ?

How bizarre...

No power...no boost...black smoke...shouts of a boost leak. But then pretty sure I stated that a few weeks back too.

Find a mechanic who isnt a complete and utter retard and it should be easy enough to resolve.

[MrPetrolHead]

stevieturbo said:

You bought another car and had the exact same problems as one a few weeks ago ?

How bizarre...

No power...no boost...black smoke...shouts of a boost leak. But then pretty sure I stated that a few weeks back too.

Find a mechanic who isnt a complete and utter retard and it should be easy enough to resolve.

No boost leaks bro he checked that out

[pc.iow]

MrPetrolHead said:

stevieturbo said:

You bought another car and had the exact same problems as one a few weeks ago ?

How bizarre...

No power...no boost...black smoke...shouts of a boost leak. But then pretty sure I stated that a few weeks back too.

Find a mechanic who isnt a complete and utter retard and it should be easy enough to resolve.

No boost leaks bro he checked that out

If It's not one of the turbo/air hoses then as others have said, It's fked.

[rev-erend]

Get him to do a compression test, sounds like the engine is knackered.

[MrPetrolHead]

rev-erend said:

Get him to do a compression test, sounds like the engine is knackered.

It also has a whining noise on start up idk why its doing that it goes on for about 5-10 seconds

[996TT02]

MrPetrolHead said:

It also has a whining noise on start up idk why its doing that it goes on for about 5-10 seconds

It's the whine of death.

[MrPetrolHead]

996TT02 said:

It's the whine of death.

also it heats up quickly aswell after 15-20min driving its really hot and i can hear the fan spinning

[Christmassss]

If your mechanic cant fix it or even know what the problem is, sack him off.

Take it to real mechanic and find out what is wrong with it.

/thread

[stevieturbo]

pc.iow said:

If It's not one of the turbo/air hoses then as others have said, It's fked.

Yea..checked out by the same idiots blaming the ecu, who dont know what a boost solenoid is or how to test it...and a whole plethora of other things

[Little Pete]

There’ll be a new thread soon asking where the plethora is and how to test it.

[MrPetrolHead]

What i figured out is when i try to rev it, it is very sluggish and slow but if i keep it at 2k rpm and then let go and instantly floor it the revs fly over as it should do at the first place...

[stevieturbo]

Are you talking about when driving or are you still trying to achieve something sitting revving it in the driveway ?

[GreenV8S]

While I don't know that car (despite reading about it in so many threads recently), some cars deliberately try to prevent you from applying power and brakes at the same time. It is a right PITA when you are trying to drive them properly. If you have the hand brake or foot brake applied (or the car thinks you do) and won't let you apply power, that might be what's happening. Getting out of the way when you close and reopen the throttle would fit with that.

[stevieturbo]

GreenV8S said:

While I don't know that car (despite reading about it in so many threads recently), some cars deliberately try to prevent you from applying power and brakes at the same time. It is a right PITA when you are trying to drive them properly. If you have the hand brake or foot brake applied (or the car thinks you do) and won't let you apply power, that might be what's happening. Getting out of the way when you close and reopen the throttle would fit with that.

based on his descriptions...no

And in any case, it would only take a retard with 3 brain cells and one eye to check on a laptop with suitable software as to whether any brake switches, clutch switches etc are active to determine if that is even a possibility. Total time to check...maybe 2 minutes.

In fact...total time to check a multitude of things here would take very little time at all. But it seems his chosen mechanics have no brain cells and no eyes.

The difficult part isnt fixing the car....it's finding a mechanic with a brain !

[Thats What She Said]

Your 'mechanic' is cheap isnt he?, that why you use him.

Your current 'mechanic' is firing the parts cannon at the car, and hoping that fixes it.

Go and find a better one, who may well be a bit more expensive.