Locked drive Train,

[anonymous-user]

Two weeks ago had a steering issue at the track drove to the nearest marshal post under power Tried to put car in gear to reverse through the gate in the armco, gear crunched and wouldn't engage, (crunching was the classic clutch not disengaging), tried to push the car, wouldn't move, car in neutral, clutch in, no difference car was locked. Lifted off the track with a crane onto a flat bed, Back at the pits had it lowered on to stands, thinking I'd drop the prop to get it on the tow truck, but everything worked, got it home drove it of the tow truck to the parking place, tried to reverse it to straighten up wouldn't engage reverse or any other gear and locked solid, couldn't push it. No big issue just out of line in a big parking space so I left it. Common issue is I tried reverse both times!
I assumed gear box, and couldn't think why dipping he clutch didn't solve it.
Push the clutch start the engine let the clutch back, car in neutral and car doesn't stall ar try to creep, also car will start in neutral, which I wouldn't expect if it was locked in a gear.
My mechanics have been away but will pick the car up today and sort it for next race, But I'd appreciate any ones insightful advice/experience
Car is highly modified Sylva Phoenix, running Nissan Silvia SR20DET S15, with the correct Nissan 5 speed gear box and a Nissan LSD,
Replacement of the lot is not a huge problem I can get engines from Japanese breaker in days, so may never know the issue as we amy just replace and dump the box without stripping it.

[Mignon]

Sounds like the box has a gate problem and is engaging two gears at once. One forward and also reverse. This will lock the diff and tyres regardless of what the clutch is doing. The clutch only disconnects the box from the engine, not the tyres.

[GreenV8S]

I've had a selector fork fail and leave a gear left permanently selected which had similar symptoms. Sounds like your case is slightly different because it is not staying selected all the time. Can't imagine what sort of failure in the 'box would cause that, but it definitely fits the symptoms.

[anonymous-user]

Ok thanks, I'm not worried about box problems I'll just get a second hand one from a Japanese breaker, for a few hundred ponds ( I've blown a few boxes,) the std gear box is so good and cheap that frankly its not worth messing, just put one in blow it buy a replacement second hand one

The gear box was crunching a bit on the down change.

I actually get gear boxes and bottom ends form specialist breakers who buy in Japan but the container, The head, turbo inter coolers etc are all bespoke and where the money is, But I can normally get a season + from a decent well sourced second hand engine and box no problem just open them up general check, new bearings, and head gasket and for under a 100) pounds all OK. It lasts about a year and a half. I had a quote for an upgrade on the bottom end and I was into 8,000 pounds then I still need to strip it every year or so. The result of this Is I do treat bottom ends and gear boxes as a consumable and the gear box and engine practically go in by themselves, as the body is removable, so replacement labour is not an Issue.

[anonymous-user]

For some reason I can't upload pictures, but looking at box I broke off a few teeth, looks like the box physically jammed on the teeth, and when the car was lifted they 'fell' out' allowing me to drive it to the parking place.