Vague question.
Discussion
We seem to be on about the same idle speed control, it is the twin-pipe job. Mine isn't sealed any more as a pipe split before.
Er, system?
The engine is a mulitpoint injected 2 litre auto.
Where can I find out what system it is? All I gathered from the Haynes manual is that it isn't the Multec system as they're fitted on the single point engines.
In other news, the car has started every time since I adjusted the idle speed and just drove me 157 miles to guildford. Good start, but I havent exposed it to stop-start traffic yet. Or a hill.
Edited coz... Actually no excuse. I just can't type.
>> Edited by Alan420 on Thursday 3rd April 03:09
Er, system?
The engine is a mulitpoint injected 2 litre auto.
Where can I find out what system it is? All I gathered from the Haynes manual is that it isn't the Multec system as they're fitted on the single point engines.
In other news, the car has started every time since I adjusted the idle speed and just drove me 157 miles to guildford. Good start, but I havent exposed it to stop-start traffic yet. Or a hill.
Edited coz... Actually no excuse. I just can't type.
>> Edited by Alan420 on Thursday 3rd April 03:09
Right, the latest. This is wierd.
I reset the throttle rest so the car idles at 1300rpm, as high as it'll go whilst still engaging gears. This worked fine for a few days but now the idle speeds are dropping. It sits at about 800 as soon as you stop and falls lower the longer you stay stopped. Stalls at just under 500. Unless you put it in neutral - in which case it stays at 1300 and falls VERY slowly.
The rev counter's needle tends to 'hunt', waving up and down by some 50rpm, and inevitably falls. Occasionally a cylinder fires rough and that drops it quite a lot.
I hit rush hour traffic today with the girlfriend and had to stall the torque converter and hold it at 1500rpm on the pedal (embarrasing). That can't have done it much good but it was the only way to avoid grinding to a halt in the middle of Guildford (very embarrasing).
The other thing I've noticed is that it REEKS of unburnt petrol when you switch it off. I haven't had chance to get some carb cleaner yet, or a new coil. I tried the local scrappy for a coil today but they don't have anything that fits. Down to Halfords for some carb cleaner tomorrow (unless WD40 works? - student budget).
Does all this give a clearer picture of the fault or am I just confusing matters?
I really could do without buying another car right now...
>> Edited by Alan420 on Friday 4th April 01:46
I reset the throttle rest so the car idles at 1300rpm, as high as it'll go whilst still engaging gears. This worked fine for a few days but now the idle speeds are dropping. It sits at about 800 as soon as you stop and falls lower the longer you stay stopped. Stalls at just under 500. Unless you put it in neutral - in which case it stays at 1300 and falls VERY slowly.
The rev counter's needle tends to 'hunt', waving up and down by some 50rpm, and inevitably falls. Occasionally a cylinder fires rough and that drops it quite a lot.
I hit rush hour traffic today with the girlfriend and had to stall the torque converter and hold it at 1500rpm on the pedal (embarrasing). That can't have done it much good but it was the only way to avoid grinding to a halt in the middle of Guildford (very embarrasing).
The other thing I've noticed is that it REEKS of unburnt petrol when you switch it off. I haven't had chance to get some carb cleaner yet, or a new coil. I tried the local scrappy for a coil today but they don't have anything that fits. Down to Halfords for some carb cleaner tomorrow (unless WD40 works? - student budget).
Does all this give a clearer picture of the fault or am I just confusing matters?
I really could do without buying another car right now...
>> Edited by Alan420 on Friday 4th April 01:46
If it stinks of petrol, id make sure ive not got a leak frst mate!!! Dont wanna have an "incident"...
While all this is going on, theres no management light coming on?
BTW, "e" reg, im thinking its the older shape one yeah?
If thats the case it should be motronic injection on that. Ill go have a hunt for some info.
While all this is going on, theres no management light coming on?
BTW, "e" reg, im thinking its the older shape one yeah?
If thats the case it should be motronic injection on that. Ill go have a hunt for some info.
deltaf said: If it stinks of petrol, id make sure ive not got a leak frst mate!!! Dont wanna have an "incident"...
While all this is going on, theres no management light coming on?
BTW, "e" reg, im thinking its the older shape one yeah?
If thats the case it should be motronic injection on that. Ill go have a hunt for some info.
The car is the old shape.
Pretty sure there's no leaks, the lines are new. Did have a patch in the tank a year ago, so I'll check that later, but it's never left a puddle on the drive, aside from engine oil.
No warning lights have come on during any of this.
Ok, should be Motronic ML4...theres a half dozen different ones, but for the year, thats the one should be fitted to yours.
Heres a flow chart to help you diagnose...(big).
Erratic idle speed.
Aux air valve-terminals (46 ohms) resistance or-
-Idle speed control valve(6 to 10 ohms)(2 terminal type)
Idle speed control valve 3 terminal type-(1+2=17 to 27 ohms)
(1+3=35 to 45 ohms)
(2+3=17 to 27 ohms)
If all ok next¬
|
|
V
Check idle speed and CO%
|
|
Ok V
Check throttle valve/sticking etc
|
|
Ok V
Check coolant temp sensor( 20degrees C, 2.0 to 2.7 k 0hms
|
|
Ok V
Check air temp sensor (-10degC=8 to 10 k Ohms)
( 20degC=2.0 to 2.7 kOhms)
( 50degC=760 to 910 ohms)
|
|
Ok V
Air flow sensor Filter satisfactory?
|
|
Ok V
Check air flow sensor as per manual
|
|
Ok V
Test fuel pressure (system pressure vac disconnected=3.0 to 4.0 bar(regulated 2.4 to 3.6)
|
|
Ok V
Check fuel delivery rate(875 to 1030 cc/30 secs)
|
|
V
Check injectors(2.0 to 16 ohms resistance)
|
|
End of checks V
You probably wont be able to do half of the checks such as delivery pressure and rate as they require specialised equipment.
Although the other stuff should be easy to have a go at, the resistance checks etc.
Id still have a real good check around for air leaks, it does sound like thats a good possibility.
Heres a flow chart to help you diagnose...(big).
Erratic idle speed.
Aux air valve-terminals (46 ohms) resistance or-
-Idle speed control valve(6 to 10 ohms)(2 terminal type)
Idle speed control valve 3 terminal type-(1+2=17 to 27 ohms)
(1+3=35 to 45 ohms)
(2+3=17 to 27 ohms)
If all ok next¬
|
|
V
Check idle speed and CO%
|
|
Ok V
Check throttle valve/sticking etc
|
|
Ok V
Check coolant temp sensor( 20degrees C, 2.0 to 2.7 k 0hms
|
|
Ok V
Check air temp sensor (-10degC=8 to 10 k Ohms)
( 20degC=2.0 to 2.7 kOhms)
( 50degC=760 to 910 ohms)
|
|
Ok V
Air flow sensor Filter satisfactory?
|
|
Ok V
Check air flow sensor as per manual
|
|
Ok V
Test fuel pressure (system pressure vac disconnected=3.0 to 4.0 bar(regulated 2.4 to 3.6)
|
|
Ok V
Check fuel delivery rate(875 to 1030 cc/30 secs)
|
|
V
Check injectors(2.0 to 16 ohms resistance)
|
|
End of checks V
You probably wont be able to do half of the checks such as delivery pressure and rate as they require specialised equipment.
Although the other stuff should be easy to have a go at, the resistance checks etc.
Id still have a real good check around for air leaks, it does sound like thats a good possibility.
Deltaf,
I tried the carb-cleaner today, exactly as you recommended. Big improvement. Much smoother transition from idle to drive.
It still looses revs if I leave it idling though, from 1000 at startup down to 500, it still seeks around, but now it doesn't splutter and stall if I rev it. It just settles (very slowly) back to 1000 then starts to sink again.
It's use-able now, which is a big step forward, but sadly I'll have to leave it for a while.
For some reason my skin reacted VERY badly to the grime under the engine bay today (despite my immediate wash-off after work). My hands are in tatters so I'll have to wait till they heal up a bit, or at least stop bleeding so much.
Thanks for the checklist. I'll get onto that as soon as I'm able.
Cheers again everyone (Deltaf in particular). Thanks to this thread I have a working car again!
Now time for some
to distract me from the fact I can't bend my fingers!
I tried the carb-cleaner today, exactly as you recommended. Big improvement. Much smoother transition from idle to drive.
It still looses revs if I leave it idling though, from 1000 at startup down to 500, it still seeks around, but now it doesn't splutter and stall if I rev it. It just settles (very slowly) back to 1000 then starts to sink again.
It's use-able now, which is a big step forward, but sadly I'll have to leave it for a while.
For some reason my skin reacted VERY badly to the grime under the engine bay today (despite my immediate wash-off after work). My hands are in tatters so I'll have to wait till they heal up a bit, or at least stop bleeding so much.
Thanks for the checklist. I'll get onto that as soon as I'm able.
Cheers again everyone (Deltaf in particular). Thanks to this thread I have a working car again!
Now time for some
to distract me from the fact I can't bend my fingers!
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